Wine Musings Vol#102

Wine of Merit: ****Domaine Roumier, Ruchottes Chambertin, Gran Cru, Cote D’Or, 2008: Stunning. An elegant wine with poise, texture, structure and nuance. Wonderful depth and complexity for such a young wine. Berries, forest floor, potpourri…wonderfully integrated and nuanced. Length and grip on the seamless palate. Surprisingly approachable. A lovely wine.

****Domaine Ramonet, Bienvenues Batard Montrachet, Grand Cru, Cote D’Or, 2007: Once again, a stunning wine. Laser-like focus and clarity. Marzipan, linseed oil, candied citrus zest, a nuance of North African spices…wow. Mineral and citrus infused palate front to back. Endless finish. Simply a great wine.

****Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia, Toscana, IGT, 2007: A capable successor to the awesome 2006. A four square wine with big structure and still very primary elements, but clearly everything is there and in the right proportions. Perhaps not quite as ripe as 2006, but perhaps also better proportioned. For fans of this wine and this estate, 2007 looks like another must own vintage. Outstanding!

***++Renato Ratti, Marcenasco, Langhe, Barolo, 2005: I loved this wine. Approachable yet complex, perfectly balanced and a wonderful example of wines from La Morra. Strawberries and cherry liqueur, espresso, damp earth. Great balance, lovely concentration front to back, a powerful yet supple finish. A delicious and promising wine and a price that makes a lot of sense to me. Has Barolo replaced Bordeaux as the go-to red wine for the cellar?

***+Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke, Riesling Spätlese, 2004: Drinking perfectly right now. Rich and textured. Nose of white flowers, Asian pear, yellow peach, ginger, honeysuckle. Undertones of slate. Unctuous palate, lovely balance, medium, spicy finish. Just delicious.

***+Cargasacchi, Santa Rita Hills, pinot noir, 2005: Delicious! Bright, zingy strawberry rhubarb, cranberry, baking spices. Palate is nicely toned, lithe and seamless front to back, adding bright acids and some pink peppercorn notes. Generous oak, but well integrated. With extended air the oak becomes more prevalent and less enjoyable. An easy drinking SRH pinot that was great with food and a real crowd pleaser.

***Paolo Bea, San Valentino, Umbria, IGT, sagrantino, 2006: Fruit-tastic! Prominent notes of blueberry, blackberry, plum, black licorice and mint. With more air, cardamom and tar. A bit one dimensional. Palate is coating, a bit grapey and well structured, with lots of grip. Finishes with drying tannins. Lacks the sophistication and savoir faire of the more serious Bea bottlings...but delicious nonetheless.

Wine Musings Vol#101

Wine of Merit: **** Chateau Rausan Segla, Margaux, Medoc, 1990: Possibly at its zenith. This is a lovely, nuanced feminine iteration of cabernet. Warm toned, red-fruited, notes of mulling spices, brown sugar, cedar and rosehip. Still very fresh on the palate. with more red fruit and a touch of cherry pipe tobacco. Great integration and still a hint of oak. Just a great wine.

****Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, St. Julien, Medoc, 1998: Classic. Deep cassis, lead pencil, blackberry notes. Hints of loam. Wonderful, balance and grip on the palate. Long, mineral finish, with fine tannins. This wine is built for plenty of years more in the cellar but is wonderful to drink right now for its statesman-like qualities.

****Chateau Pape Clement, Pessac Leognan, Graves, 1996: I am finding great favor recently with the 1996 vintage. I think it is really coming into a great window of drinkability. None more than this pape clement. A claret drinkers Bordeaux. Classic Graves elements of black currant, tobacco, autumn leaves, a spicy, Moka coffee and sage. The palate is lithe and silky. Great balance. The finish adds cloves and pink peppercorn to the furry tannins and tobacco. A charmer, for sure.

***++ Domaine de Chevalier blanc, Pessac Leognan, Graves, 1992: Speaking of charmers...I have big heart for this wine. It is my definition of white bordeaux. Slightly waxy, honey comb, orange peel, guava, freshly cut hay, chamomile...this wine just rocks. Age has added complexity and toned some of the youthful exuberance. The palate adds that wet slate minerality that I dig. Lovely integration to a finish that emphasizes a citrus pith bitterness I adore. Great!

***+ Chateau Pontet Canet, Paulliac, Medoc, 1995: Crazy. On opening this wine offers a singular element as its signature...it is like someone shaved wonderful, Droste chocolate into cafe au lait infused mascarpone and added a toasted marshmallow topping. Almost liquid tiramisu! With time in the glass the chocolate element integrates more with black licorice, cigar box, blackberry and graphite but still remains the prevalent take away. Still...yum! The palate signature is youthful, but generous and coating, almost velvety. The finish is fine and long. To me this is a delicious wine clearly made in the new world style. I think this vintage was made just as this wine was about to become popular and may be one of the first "Parker formula" wines out of Bordeaux in the 90s. Again...delicious but quite a contrast to the other Bordeaux reds served. Don't hate - celebrate!

***+Ceritas, Escarpa vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2007: Maybe my favorite sonoma coast pinot of the moment. Still requiring time and patience for the full effect, it has all the elements in place. Focused, black cherry, wild strawberry and cola notes with briar and oolong tea undertones. Excellent sap, a slightly grainy texture and structure on the palate. Long, pronounced, spicy finish that makes an impression. Kind of the anti KB pinot. Very promising.

Wine Musings Vol#100: A century of wine!

Rather than comment on a smattering of recent wines, I decided to hold back and make this 100th post about the 10 or so best wines I have had over the last 3 months...all Wines of Merit. To whit:

****+Tenuta dell'Orenllaia, Bolgheri, DOC Superiore, 2001: A very special wine indeed. Fresh and vibrant while still big boned, this is a wine that marries elegance and depth with a deft hand. The fruit and structural elements are in perfect balance, with nuances of mineral, tobacco and earth. All of the hoped for elements are there. Finish is long and once again harmonious. First growth Bordeaux quality with that Italian verve and optimism that sets it apart from Mouton or Lafite. A standard. Gorgeous.

****+Schrader Cellars, RBS, Beckstoffer To-kalon vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2006: Ridiculous depth and power. Pure blue and black fruit, graphite, cedar, menthol explode from the glass. Exuberantly youthful and concentrated, this wine still posses the balance and integration required to objectify poise. Really, everything required for a perfect wine is here...it just needs a little time. Delicious now, I am sure this wine will gain even more complexity and nuance with bottle age...if you can wait that long! Magic.

****Verite', La Muse, Sonoma County, 1999: Drinking magnificently well right now, after a two hour decant. Merlot-driven, red berry and mature black cherry notes, lavender, coffee grinds, freshly turned soil create an arousing melange. With time tobacco leaf is added to the mix. A real come hither wine. Coating palate with good structure, beautiful integration and balance. Long, fine finish. Really sophisticated and nuanced, with a pure core of fruit. A pleasure.

****Penfolds, Bin 707, South Australia, cabernet sauvignon, 1988: Wonderful. A hallmark for Aussie cabernet. Focused, maturing notes of violet, cassis, raw tobacco and freshly tanned leather. Mint. Brawny yet supple. Coating, wonderful grip from front to back, with more black fruit, licorice root and minerals. A big framed wine but with poise and dexterity. Did I mention wonderful? Intoxicating.

****Giuseppe Quintarelli, Ca del Merlo, Veneto, valpolicella, 1999: Welcome to the cult of Quintarelli. These folks know that there is valploicella, there is amarone and then there is Quintarelli. This wine does not disappoint. Still showing its youth, this wine is nonetheless lithe, extremely light on its feet. Beautiful, nuanced elements of autumn leaves, cherry pipe tobacco, pan forte, tar and licorice root come together to offer the proverbial meal in a glass. Nothing about this wine seems manufactured...it is just as it was intended to be. The mouth feel is generous and coating but never to excess, lingering across the palate as it moves to the spicy, tarry, fine finish. Just wonderful. I am converted!

****Azienda Agricola Montevertine, Le Pergole Torte Riserva, IGT, Toscana, 2003: Just showing wonderfully right now. Still nuanced and not overpowering, this wine is an amazing articulation of sangiovese. A mixture of queen anne and sour cherry, accompanied by lavender and rosemary spices and pink peppercorns and finally polished saddle leather and yes, grilled meats all come together to conjure up the Tuscan sun. Perfect weight and balance. Palate features more red fruit and spice, overtones to perfectly integrated acids and a long finish. This wine with homemade pasta and a simple cacio e pepe is a dream. Really special.

****Hazyblur, The Invictus, Barossa Valley, shiraz, 2004: I am admittedly surprised to be including this note, as typically this style of wine does not do it for me. That said, this wine is absolutely delicious. Wonderfully textured and rich, this Aussie shiraz never goes over the top, even though it certainly approaches the summit. Blackberry, blueberry, boysenberry...maybe even snozberry...this wine delights. This melange of fruit is accompanied by black licorice, treacle, chocolate and fig notes...I could not help thinking of a British Christmas pudding. Palate is coating and velvety, adding a mineral element. Finish is firm, a touch sweet and loooong. A long decant allows the primary fruit to really integrate beautifully with the other elements, and adds an autumnal flavor that just adds to the complexity and fun. Quite a treat!

***++Hundred Acre, Ark Vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: I include this wine as a stark contrast to most of the others...but it still ranks as a Wine of Merit to me. Clearly made in that slightly over the top, extended maceration, more is more style, what this wine lacks in nuance and sophistication it makes up for in pure hedonistic delight. Big, effusive notes of plum cobbler, scorched earth, baker's chocolate, pan fried sage and hickory smoked meat waft up from the glass. A meal by itself. The palate is enveloping and generous, the finish like a bear rug in front of a roaring fireplace on a cold winter's night. A wine to be enjoyed for what it is, without any reason for apology. Not for everyone nor every night, but every once in awhile...Fantastic!

***++Aubert, Lauren Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2005: I love where this wine is at right now. Meyer lemon, key lime, orange blossom, slate, laundry right out of the dryer, maybe a hint of something rich like a meringue...just a gorgeous expression of the fruit. Bright acids, a long, mineral note, a slight sprtiz of effervesence and more citrus make the palate sing front to back. Finish is also lively, with more mineral and citrus pith notes. Energizing!

***++Paul Pernot, Carelles, 1er Cru, Volnay, pinot noir, 1995: A great counterpoint to much of what is going on in domestic pinot noir right now. Subtle, nuanced, intersting, this 1er cru volnay embodies what I love about mid level burgundy. Nose of cherry blosom, truffle, Asian spice, a touch of freshly turned earth and oolong tea. Palate is still fresh and lively but more importantly deftly balanced and seamless front to back. Tannins are sweet and fine. A great time to drink this wine.

***++Chateau Leoville Las Cases, St. Julien, Medoc, 1992: First and foremost I am struck by the $28.99 price tag, reminding of times when buying wine made sense. 92 was not considered a great vintage so I am sure I bought these on a bit of a flier. Well, with this risk comes reward. This wine is at its prime right now. Not even requiring a decant, this wine sings at full throat right from the bottle. A melange of plum, cigar tobacco, cedar, blood and kalamata olive waft from the glass with little coaxing. The palate is medium firm and velvet textures, just gliding front to back, offering more plum, minerals and black licorice. Tannins are fine, resolving and finish is of medium length. Finesse in a glass.

***++Cafaro Cellars, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1989: A real throw back and a lovely wine. Joe Cafaro is something of a legend out in Napa and deservedly so. He has a deft hand and really understands how to complement the natural fruit elements of the area...instead of subverting them as so many others do. This wine, from admittedly not a heralded vintage, is beautifully balanced, perfectly integrated and fresh as a daisy. No scorched earth or black cherry syrup here...this wine has great black currant, eucalyptus, sage and mineral notes. It is deep and beautifully delineated. Great structure and grip on the palate with more black fruit and mineral. Firm, long, fine finish. Equally good, picking up a tobacco note, on day two. A testament to the potential of Cali cab when made the right way. Go Joe!

***+Andrew Geoffrey Vineyards, Diamond Mountian, cabernet sauvignon, 2003: A new label for me...and a pleasant surprise! Much more forthcoming than the Diamond Mountain cabs I know well. This wine shows delicious red and black fruit, malabar pepper, tar and a pronounced if underlying, hickory-wood ember element that adds sophistication and depth. The palate is lively and perfectly balanced front to back. The finish is pronounced and suggests that this wine will continue to cellar well. Another super effort from what seems to be a long list of great Diamond Mountian winemakers. Kudos to the Andrew Geoffrey folks.

Wine Musings Vol#99

For this issue of the musings we invite a special guest, John Caldarella, to take us to Bordeaux:

Chateau Pavie Macquin, St.Emilion, Bordeaux, 1999: I have found 1999 Bordeaux to be one of the most underrated vintages of Bordeaux. I have enjoyed 1999s from over a dozen Chateau ranging from Pauillac on the Left through Margaux on the Right and I have yet to be disappointed. The 99s were approachable early and have shown, at this point, to be delightful as they mature into their second decade.Tonight's example, from Saint-Emilion, has a wonderful nose of black truffle, soy, a little meat fat, and dark berry - in that order. As the wine opens the fruit becomes more expressive on the palate. While the wine is of medium body it finishes cleanly and its finely evolved tannins, quite frankly, exude character...more broken-in Benz than Jag. Lovely.




Wine of Merit: ****+Joseph Phelps, Insignia, cabernet sauvignon, Napa Valley, 1986:
Simply stated, a great wine. Surprisingly youthful. After a long decant, swirling notes of cedar, cassis, fresh plum, nicoise olive, herb de Provence and that bright, laser focused mint/eucalyptus note for which this wine has become famous. While later vintages have yielded to popular tastes, this wine remains a classic. Great structure, great balance, great finesse. Honestly, I am reminded of Mouton from the same vintage. Classic. Drink or hold.

****+ Kongsgaard, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2005: In looking through the blog, I noted that I have posted on the 2005 Judge, but not the base chardonnay. Well, it is fabulous. Unctuous, deep, perfumed and yet precise and focused. A melange of citrus, tree blossoms, honey comb, jasmine, subtle earthiness. A hint of tobacco. Flattering on the palate but detailed with a solid mineral backbone right through to the long finish. Hard not to gush about this wine. Expensive and clearly worth it.

****Dunn, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1993: Amazing. A brute that is just now even interested in flexing its muscles. Deep blue/black fruits, bramble, rocky minerals. Complimentary notes of cedar and sage. Amazing purity and depth. The palate belies its heavy weight status. The finish is the knockout. If the Insignia is Mouton, this is Latour in a big vintage. It is my understanding that the cellar master of Latour, upon trying a Dunn HM wine from around this vintage, decided that he could make a Latour from this terroir. I think his effort is called Notre Vin and is finally available for sale. I totally believe it and would be interested in how that project is turning out. Honestly, with the exception of Outpost True, I am disappointed by many of the HM efforts these days. This 1993 HM reminds me of the potential!

***++ Cedric Bouchard, Roses de Jeanne, Haut Lamblee, Blanc de blancs, champagne, 2005: Ephemeral, crisp mousse and tiny bead. Bright, crisp green apple, dried apricot, marzipan, Asian pear. Crisp, dry and mineral on the palate, with a star fruit/kiwi tang. A great food champagne. 100% chardonnay with no wood and no dosage. Delicious!

***+Sottimano, Vigne Masua, Curra, barbaresco, 2000: Delicious and clearly still a baby. Wonderful notes of potpourri, licorice root, smoke and dusty, baker's chocolate are easily coaxed from the glass. Everything about this wine is big. Voluminous, coating mouth feel. Big tannic backbone. Chocolate, fruit, pepper finish. Just a meal by itself. A wine to drink while pondering the good things in life. Super.

***+Antichi Vignetti di Cantalupo, Collis Carellae, Ghemme, 1996: A Spanna of very high quality. Much more focused and sophisticated than the Vallana offering. This wine is very reminiscent of its neighboring Barolo, with nuanced aromatics of rose hip, rhubarb,white strawberry and spice. Base notes of tar and licorice root. Palate glides with bright, integrated acids front to back, more red fruit and peppery spice. Medium,fine finish. Great food wine.

***Habit, Happy Canyon, sauvignon blanc, 2009: A new wine made from grapes grown in the Santa Ynez valley, with Dave Margerum consulting. I love the label - and the wine inside as well! A sauvignon blanc that is more ultra chill than exuberant, it offers sophisticated notes of chamomile, freshly cut grass and wild flowers, accompanied by Sicilian citron and muted tropical fruit notes. The palate is suave, layered and generous, with little of that typical young SB bite, surprising as this wine sees no oak at all. While only 50 cases were made, it is worth looking for if you can find it. Happy hunting!

***Gerard Boulay, Sancerre Rose, Chavignol, 2009: As spring turns into summer, thoughts turn to beaches, picnics, flip flops...and chavignol rose. And chief amongst them Gerard Boulay's Chavignol. Juicy, energetic, pink tropical fruits, peonies, a bit of flint...everything that is needed to enjoy the weather. Structured enough to enjoy with cool summer fare but delicious solo, this wine is for me one of the telltale signs of summer. As James Taylor says, "Summer's here...I'm for that!"

**++Windgap, Russian River Valley, pinot gris, 2008: Another winner from Pax Mahle's new label. A very different iteration of pinot gris, this wine is vinified in two batches; one is whole cluster prerssed and barreled down, the other crushed and left to age on the skins. After a year or so they are blended. The resulting wine is light orange hued, more akin to a rose then a white, though it is fermented dry. Aromas and palate are fresh and vibrant, with elements of queen Anne cherry, peach, crenshaw melon and apricot. Good acids and a nice mineral note. A great summer wine (12.3% abv), it actually was best with food. Fun!

Wine Musings Vol#98

Wine of Merit: ****Woodward Canyon, Columbia Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1989: A revelation. Superb. Very reminiscent of a Pichon Comtesse de Lalande of the same vintage. Somewhat feminine and red fruit driven, elements of nicoise olive, graphite, cassis, lavender and toasted black bread, a floral tisane note. Gliding on the palate, with more red fruit and cassis. Lingering, fine, resolving finish. Just gorgeous.

***++Leonetti Cellar, Walla Walla Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Still quite vibrant and fresh. Wonderful, nuanced cabernet notes of leather, autumn leaves and cherry pipe tobacco. Plum/Panforte and tar. Full coating palate, lovely depth and grip. Fine, tingly finish with more mint and berry fruit. Perfect drinking window. Great!

***+JC Cellars, Frediani vineyard, Napa Valley, petite syrah, 1998: I am not a big petite syrah fan. That said, this was a wonderful wine! In my cellar since release, the wine has developed wonderfully integrated black fruit, caramelized fig and spicy broad leaf cigar tobacco notes. Calla Lilly with time in the glass. Super interesting but all integrated and nuanced. Balanced, full palate, lively peppery, meaty finish. A big - and very pleasant - surprise. Wonderful!

***+Bodegas Muga, Rioja Reserva, Tempernaillo, 2001: A wonderful wine at a great value. Spicy red fruit, iron, grilled meats, saddle leather, garrigue and a touch of iodine. Great complexity with clean flavors and focus. Palate is a touch racy with good attack, more red fruit and Malabar pepper and no drop offs. Fine, long spicy finish. A dynamite food wine that continues to improve and nuance.

***+Del Dotto, Napa valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1997: Prototypical. Wonderful cassis, cedar, plum and tobacco. Pronounced creamy, chocolate mint. Great depth and richness but not overripe or exaggerated at all. Flattering, generous mouth feel front to back. Long, lingering spicy finish. Yum!

***Windgap, Fannucchi vineyard, Trousseau Gris, 2009: A lovely, lighter weight summer sipper. Bright, lemon citrus zest and juicy green apple notes. Candied ginger and cardamom. Excellent snap and acid bite. Pure mineral backbone all the way to the finish. With time in the glass, a floral, almost acacia note is added. Bring on the summer heat!

Wine Musings Vol#97

Wine of Merit: ***+Les Pagodes de Cos, St. Estephe, Bordeaux, 2000: A lovely surprise from Cos D'Estournel's second label. While 2000 has earned the reputation for some hard-as-nails wines, this is not one of them. Rich, sweet blackberry, licorice, cedar and tobacco. A hint of minerals. The palate is full, textured, fruitful and not hard edged anywhere. Lovely integration front to back, to a medium long finish with fine tannins. A pleasure.

***+ Conn Valley Vineyards, Right Bank, Napa, meritage, 2007: Another incredibly pleasing wine. A merlot/cab blend. Similar notes, with the addition of youthful exuberance. Ripe, juicy, black cherry and berry fruit. A touch of vanilla pipe tobacco. A hint of nicoise olive. Lots of baby fat. Balanced nicely hinting at aging potential and the development of tertiary complexity. Yummy right now!

***+Eric Texier, Cote Rotie, Vielles Vignes, syrah, 2005: I admit right upfront that I am a huge Texier fan. His wines sacrifice goofy extraction and ripeness for balance, integration and nuance. This wine is no exception. Inviting in almost a polite way, it offers beautifully delineated syrah aromatics of blueberry compote, wildflowers and carbonara (well cooked pancetta, pepper, a touch of something richer and creamier). The palate has pinot like flow and the finish is elegant and focused. Clearly a wine that will age well as I muddle through earlier vintages. Just wonderful. Bravo.

***Kosta Browne, Koplen vineyard, Russian River Valley, pinot noir, 2006: From the sublime...Actually, while there is no mistaking these pinot noirs for Burgundy, they offer lots of pleasure in their own way. Thick black cherry and vanilla ice cream notes, here with a note of raspberry and a nuance of something not quite as sweet, perhaps Mariage Freres Marco Polo tea. The palate is thankfully not quite as blousy, with a nice core of cherry fruit but also some malabar pepper, cola and fine tannin to the finish. This wine is better than the RRV and can probably stand another year in the cellar, though it is meant for drinking in the nearer term. Nice.

***Chateau Fuisse, Puilly Fuisse, Les Combettes, Burgundy, 2006: The theme continues to be rich wines. Initial notes of struck match from liberal use of sulphur. Then, with aeration, spicy preserved lemons, Asian pears, grilled fennel and lily of the valley. Bright and racy on the palate. Good acids with minerals and a slightly more candied citrus element. Fine, focused, spicy finish. Delicious.