Wine Musings Vol#85

Wine of Merit: ***++Laurel Glen, Counterpoint, Sonoma Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1991: A wonderful surprise. I have always admired this sonoma mountain producer but I was floored by the complexity, nuance and grip of this second label edition. I couldn't help but think of Figeac with its mature red/plum fruit, Indian tagine spices, loam and sois bois - but also Graves, given the pronounced graphite, smoke, autumn leaf and mineral elements as the wine expanded over time. Wonderful delineation and depth on the palate with more plum and mineral. Tannins are fine and the finish still long. Great wine punching well above its weight.

***+Schweiger Vineyards, Estate, Diamond Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1994: Lovely. Great, integrated mountain fruit elements. Blackberry, baker's chocolate, nicoise olives, brair. Palate is generous and coating but never fat, with a pronounced mineral note. Finish is lively but nicely built in to the overall palate impression. Just perfect to drink right now, though it will likely hold on for awhile.

***Beaulieu Vineyards, Georges de Latour, Private Reserve, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1992: An excellent example. Not nearly as ripe as previous bottles, this wine showed elegance, stature and strength. Deep red and black fruit, cassis, licorice, chalk and menthol. Firm, integrated palate with good length and a velvety depth.

*** Richard Partridge, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1998: I believe this was the first vintage for this winery. An auspicious start. Open knit, full aromas of chocolate covered black cherry, cassis, cedar, clove. Round mouth feel with integrated vanilla/hazelnut, plum and spice. Good balance and length. Lovely to drink now.

***Del Dotto, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Nice wine. Tangy, plump red fruit driven style. Slightly over ripe. Cafe au lait, grilled meats, a touch of gaurrigue. Oak is integrated, palate silky, finish medium length. An overall good bottle of mature Napa cabernet that should be consumed over the short term.

**++Robert Sinskey, SLD Estate, Stags Leap District, cabernet sauvignon, 2002: Very nice, if a tad underwhelming. Typical, spicy red SLV fruit. Complementary notes of grilled fennel and incense. Good fullness and weight, more fruit and with some minerals on the palate. Perhaps a bit vague. Yummy, if under performing.

Wine Musings Vol#32

Wine of Merit: ***++Ramey, Ritchie Vineyard, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2003: This Ramey guy may be on to something (David Ramey has been the winemaker at some of Cali’s finest including Dominus, Rudd and Matanzas Creek). Certainly, he knows how to source fruit. The Ritchie vineyard does wonderful things with chardonnay and this is no exception. Perfumed, exotic, white flowers, bosc pears, honeysuckle and lavender waft up from the glass. Beautiful palate which includes lemon zest and vanilla, with asian spice. Lovely, integrated finish. Can’t beat it.

***Clos Pegase, Hommage Artist Series Reserve, cabernet sauvignon 1992: “How do you make a small fortune in the wine business?” asks Jan Schrem when queried about his success, “Start with a large fortune and work your way down!” Here is a guy that is clearly passionate about wine – and it shows in his bottlings. This is clearly a mature wine, though the color is a vibrant garnet to the rim. The nose is nuanced, with pomegranate, mint, lavender, sweet clover honey and powdery necco wafers. The palate offers more red fruit, Malabar pepper and asian spices, though it is clearly thinning. The finish is sweet and furry and of medium length. A very pleasant wine that can be enjoyed now.

**+Robert Sinskey, vin gris of pinot noir, 2006: Nice. Bright acids, muted strawberry fruit, lychee nut and pineapple juice notes. Light on the palate, a nuance of provencal herbs, with a nice fruity finish. Not bad!

***Cornerstone Cellars, Howell Mountain Beatty Ranch, Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon, 1991: Mature color, evolved nose of soy, stewed stone fruit, plumy, chocolate covered raisins. Fairly full on the palate, mostly red and some black berry fruit. Integrated and fairly balanced. A wine to drink now. Delicious in the short term.

***+Ramey, Hudson Vineyard chardonnay, 2002: Wow. Lovely, effusive perfumed nose of honeysuckle, citrus and a beautiful lavender note. Full and coating on the palate. Notes of vanilla and more candies citrus. Great, spicy, firm finish. Super classy chard!

***++Barnett Vineyards, Rattlesnake Hill, cabernet sauvignon, 1994: Killer. Mature cab color and nose. Perfumey and sexy. Church incense, cassis, cigar tobacco, black fruit. Velvety, palate coating, black Malabar pepper, blackberry, boysenberry, chocolate and some tar. Really special. Sweet, fine tannins. Drink or hold. Great wine.