Wine of Merit: **** Chateau Rausan Segla, Margaux, Medoc, 1990: Possibly at its zenith. This is a lovely, nuanced feminine iteration of cabernet. Warm toned, red-fruited, notes of mulling spices, brown sugar, cedar and rosehip. Still very fresh on the palate. with more red fruit and a touch of cherry pipe tobacco. Great integration and still a hint of oak. Just a great wine.
****Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, St. Julien, Medoc, 1998: Classic. Deep cassis, lead pencil, blackberry notes. Hints of loam. Wonderful, balance and grip on the palate. Long, mineral finish, with fine tannins. This wine is built for plenty of years more in the cellar but is wonderful to drink right now for its statesman-like qualities.
****Chateau Pape Clement, Pessac Leognan, Graves, 1996: I am finding great favor recently with the 1996 vintage. I think it is really coming into a great window of drinkability. None more than this pape clement. A claret drinkers Bordeaux. Classic Graves elements of black currant, tobacco, autumn leaves, a spicy, Moka coffee and sage. The palate is lithe and silky. Great balance. The finish adds cloves and pink peppercorn to the furry tannins and tobacco. A charmer, for sure.
***++ Domaine de Chevalier blanc, Pessac Leognan, Graves, 1992: Speaking of charmers...I have big heart for this wine. It is my definition of white bordeaux. Slightly waxy, honey comb, orange peel, guava, freshly cut hay, chamomile...this wine just rocks. Age has added complexity and toned some of the youthful exuberance. The palate adds that wet slate minerality that I dig. Lovely integration to a finish that emphasizes a citrus pith bitterness I adore. Great!
***+ Chateau Pontet Canet, Paulliac, Medoc, 1995: Crazy. On opening this wine offers a singular element as its signature...it is like someone shaved wonderful, Droste chocolate into cafe au lait infused mascarpone and added a toasted marshmallow topping. Almost liquid tiramisu! With time in the glass the chocolate element integrates more with black licorice, cigar box, blackberry and graphite but still remains the prevalent take away. Still...yum! The palate signature is youthful, but generous and coating, almost velvety. The finish is fine and long. To me this is a delicious wine clearly made in the new world style. I think this vintage was made just as this wine was about to become popular and may be one of the first "Parker formula" wines out of Bordeaux in the 90s. Again...delicious but quite a contrast to the other Bordeaux reds served. Don't hate - celebrate!
***+Ceritas, Escarpa vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2007: Maybe my favorite sonoma coast pinot of the moment. Still requiring time and patience for the full effect, it has all the elements in place. Focused, black cherry, wild strawberry and cola notes with briar and oolong tea undertones. Excellent sap, a slightly grainy texture and structure on the palate. Long, pronounced, spicy finish that makes an impression. Kind of the anti KB pinot. Very promising.
