Wine Musings Vol#74

Wine of Merit: ****Tenuta Guado al Tasso, Bolgheri Superiore, 1997: Wow. This wine is enormous and just bursting at the seams. Dense, deep, concentrated, primal; it seems to me that this is showing none of its 11+ years of age. Laser-focused black berry fruit, spearmint, tar, floral violets and crushed gravel elements make me think new world, or maybe new styled Barolo. The palate mimics these initial impressions. Deep, almost impenetrable, with more black fruit and minerals, coating and firm front to back. Even with much time in the glass this seems to be a wine that will benefit from years if not decades of aging. Wonderful.

***++Castello dei Rampolla, Sammarco, 1997: Really wonderful. Perhaps a touch more mature than the Guado al Tasso, but perfectly balanced and deftly integrated. A similar new world profile of black berry, menthol and minerals, the notes are complemented with some red fruit and an undertone of citrus. The palate is simply integration and balance exemplified. Lovely fruit profile on the coating entry, good firm tannic backbone, great mid palate feel, long fine finish. Just a dynamite wine that, like Guado al Tasso, gets lost a bit in the crowd of wines whose names end in "aia".

***++Argiano, Brunello di Montalcino, sangiovese, 1997: Wow. Quite the tour de force. The complexity and savage nature of this wine would have made me guess St. Estephe if the wine were blinded. Ox blood in hue, smoke, roasted meats, red fruit, mocha, rosemary, truffle, oil cured black olive. Chewy, dense, mouth filling wine with a slight raciness to the mid palate before a firm, mineral finish. Delicious and totally worth it. A meal in a glass.

***Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, 1997: I was introduced to Ornellaia at the Cantina Antinori in Florence with the 1988 vintage and was bowled over. Since then, it has come to be one of poster children of the "Super Tuscan" genre of wines made in the Bolgheri area. And rightfully so, as it is typically breathtaking, vintage in and vintage out. This iteration may have been one of the vintages that propelled Ornellaia past Tignanello and into the spotlight. 11 years later, this wine is showing its maturity, adding complexity and nuance to its initial exuberant expression. Stewed plum, tomato skin, smoke, bacon fat, espresso, soy and mocha create a melange that reminds me of much older cab based wines from California and Bordeaux. The palate is fine and not tired at all, showing more red fruit and chocolate. The finish is fine and resolved...a top wine that has evolved nicely and will reward patience with a fine drinking experience. Lovely.

Wine Musings Vol#55

Wine of Merit: ****Castello dei Rampolla, Sammarco, Toscana, Rosso, 1997: A tale of two wines. At first this cab based Italian is decidedly international in style – blind I would have guessed California merlot. Lovely, velvety red fruit, lavender, chocolate…a full coating palate with more yummy red fruit, licorice, chalk and café au lait…just delicious…but somehow a bit of a recipe wine. Amazingly with time, this wine changes completely. Two hours in and this wine introduces strawberry rhubarb, baking spices, soaped saddle leather, a touch racy, great minerality…now that’s Italian! Interesting how the cab works as a back drop – maybe more of a structural support platform - for the two other elements (Merlot and Sangiovese) that are actually very much in the minority in this wine. A real treat!

***++La Spinetta, Pin, Monferrato, Rosso, 1999: Masculine and sophisticated. This is still a very big wine, with I am sure decades of longevity left. It is however also balanced and nicely integrated, and thus wonderful to drink right now. Deep, thick blue fruit, some pine and lots of minerals on the brooding nose, this wine exhibits predominantly Nebbiolo characteristics up front. Palate coating, firmly tannic and evidencing integrated medium toast new French oak, the body is almost more Bordeaux than traditional Piemontese. With time, the Nebbiolo surrenders to at least an integrated element of the Barbera, introducing more traditional Italian red fruit and smoke. An extremely well crafted wine that I will continue to cellar with enthusiasm – and at under $50 an amazing buy.

***+Talty, Talty Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley, zinfandel, 2004: Talty is tasty! This was a new winery for me – and a welcomed introduction to be sure. This wine is all about freshness – one whiff and I can close my eyes and be transported directly to the Dry Creek, barrel sampling at a number of my favorite wineries up on Dry Creek Road. Very, very berry driven, this wine is laden with fresh fruit, herbs and minerals and packs a wallop of black pepper to go with (I understand there is a decent dose of Petite Sirah in here – I can taste it). Not overripe or hot at all, it is really about the freshness and a very light hand in the winemaking process. While my zin collection has dwindled down to a select few producers (Doug Nalle being chief among them) – this Talty wine gives me confidence to go back and see what else might be going on out there. Just delicious!

***Matanzas Creek, Sonoma County, merlot, 1990: Wonderful, mature Sonoma merlot. Made back in the day when this label was truly representative of the best merlot made in California. Deep, deep, perfumed black fruits, a touch of soy, spice box and church incense, including a hint of the lavender this estate has become so noted for. Thinning a bit mid palate, it still shows great black/red fruit and liquid minerals. The finish is still surprisingly firm if fine and sweet. Dynamite wine. Give it some air and drink up.