Wine Musings Vol#101

Wine of Merit: **** Chateau Rausan Segla, Margaux, Medoc, 1990: Possibly at its zenith. This is a lovely, nuanced feminine iteration of cabernet. Warm toned, red-fruited, notes of mulling spices, brown sugar, cedar and rosehip. Still very fresh on the palate. with more red fruit and a touch of cherry pipe tobacco. Great integration and still a hint of oak. Just a great wine.

****Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, St. Julien, Medoc, 1998: Classic. Deep cassis, lead pencil, blackberry notes. Hints of loam. Wonderful, balance and grip on the palate. Long, mineral finish, with fine tannins. This wine is built for plenty of years more in the cellar but is wonderful to drink right now for its statesman-like qualities.

****Chateau Pape Clement, Pessac Leognan, Graves, 1996: I am finding great favor recently with the 1996 vintage. I think it is really coming into a great window of drinkability. None more than this pape clement. A claret drinkers Bordeaux. Classic Graves elements of black currant, tobacco, autumn leaves, a spicy, Moka coffee and sage. The palate is lithe and silky. Great balance. The finish adds cloves and pink peppercorn to the furry tannins and tobacco. A charmer, for sure.

***++ Domaine de Chevalier blanc, Pessac Leognan, Graves, 1992: Speaking of charmers...I have big heart for this wine. It is my definition of white bordeaux. Slightly waxy, honey comb, orange peel, guava, freshly cut hay, chamomile...this wine just rocks. Age has added complexity and toned some of the youthful exuberance. The palate adds that wet slate minerality that I dig. Lovely integration to a finish that emphasizes a citrus pith bitterness I adore. Great!

***+ Chateau Pontet Canet, Paulliac, Medoc, 1995: Crazy. On opening this wine offers a singular element as its signature...it is like someone shaved wonderful, Droste chocolate into cafe au lait infused mascarpone and added a toasted marshmallow topping. Almost liquid tiramisu! With time in the glass the chocolate element integrates more with black licorice, cigar box, blackberry and graphite but still remains the prevalent take away. Still...yum! The palate signature is youthful, but generous and coating, almost velvety. The finish is fine and long. To me this is a delicious wine clearly made in the new world style. I think this vintage was made just as this wine was about to become popular and may be one of the first "Parker formula" wines out of Bordeaux in the 90s. Again...delicious but quite a contrast to the other Bordeaux reds served. Don't hate - celebrate!

***+Ceritas, Escarpa vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2007: Maybe my favorite sonoma coast pinot of the moment. Still requiring time and patience for the full effect, it has all the elements in place. Focused, black cherry, wild strawberry and cola notes with briar and oolong tea undertones. Excellent sap, a slightly grainy texture and structure on the palate. Long, pronounced, spicy finish that makes an impression. Kind of the anti KB pinot. Very promising.

Wine Musings Vol#6

From notes taken December, 2005:

Wine of Merit: ***+Paul Autard Chateauneuf de Pape, Cuvee le cote rhonde, 2003: Righteous. Lovely. CdP notes of jammy black fruit, pepper, bramble and bacon fat (I know – what would I know about bacon fat – hey I used to live in Italy and believe me no one knows Pancetta like the Italians). Delicious and deep now. More importantly, it has great structure and balance, suggesting this will only improve with time. Great wine. I will buy more and put it next to my Paul Avril wines – and hope they get along in the cellar.

*+Roger Perrin CdP Blanc, 2003: Though this wine suggests it does not contain viognier, to me that is what immediately came to mind. Apple blossom and perfumed, peach, lichee nut, apricot. Good acids, some citrus on the palate, maybe a bit hot. Light to medium body, some depth and a funny, green/yellow hue. OK though not special. Out of the 8 bottles on the table this was the only one that needed to be vacu vinned. Moving on.

***+Viader, Howell Mountain, 1993: Delia Viader is well put together, forward and downright sexy. This is a perfect descriptor of her wines too. Especially 1993, which is pretty forward as vintages go. A big crowd pleaser with 40% cab franc showing grilled meats, lush red fruits, mushroom and violet. Ready to drink but not falling off at all. A pleasure with turkey, cranberry sauce and gravy. I buy Viader as often as I can. Cheaper than Cheval Blanc!

***+Chateau Rausan Segla, 1990: Very Margaux. Deep purple color. Cassis, pine needles, espresso bean. In the glass it takes on more complexity and refinement with velvety red fruit, tobacco and earth notes. Firm finish. A little mid palate drop off but that is this wines only lacking. Nice. Drink or hold. No hurry to finish the case.