Rather than comment on a smattering of recent wines, I decided to hold back and make this 100th post about the 10 or so best wines I have had over the last 3 months...all Wines of Merit. To whit:
****+Tenuta dell'Orenllaia, Bolgheri, DOC Superiore, 2001: A very special wine indeed. Fresh and vibrant while still big boned, this is a wine that marries elegance and depth with a deft hand. The fruit and structural elements are in perfect balance, with nuances of mineral, tobacco and earth. All of the hoped for elements are there. Finish is long and once again harmonious. First growth Bordeaux quality with that Italian verve and optimism that sets it apart from Mouton or Lafite. A standard. Gorgeous.
****+Schrader Cellars, RBS, Beckstoffer To-kalon vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2006: Ridiculous depth and power. Pure blue and black fruit, graphite, cedar, menthol explode from the glass. Exuberantly youthful and concentrated, this wine still posses the balance and integration required to objectify poise. Really, everything required for a perfect wine is here...it just needs a little time. Delicious now, I am sure this wine will gain even more complexity and nuance with bottle age...if you can wait that long! Magic.
****Verite', La Muse, Sonoma County, 1999: Drinking magnificently well right now, after a two hour decant. Merlot-driven, red berry and mature black cherry notes, lavender, coffee grinds, freshly turned soil create an arousing melange. With time tobacco leaf is added to the mix. A real come hither wine. Coating palate with good structure, beautiful integration and balance. Long, fine finish. Really sophisticated and nuanced, with a pure core of fruit. A pleasure.
****Penfolds, Bin 707, South Australia, cabernet sauvignon, 1988: Wonderful. A hallmark for Aussie cabernet. Focused, maturing notes of violet, cassis, raw tobacco and freshly tanned leather. Mint. Brawny yet supple. Coating, wonderful grip from front to back, with more black fruit, licorice root and minerals. A big framed wine but with poise and dexterity. Did I mention wonderful? Intoxicating.
****Giuseppe Quintarelli, Ca del Merlo, Veneto, valpolicella, 1999: Welcome to the cult of Quintarelli. These folks know that there is valploicella, there is amarone and then there is Quintarelli. This wine does not disappoint. Still showing its youth, this wine is nonetheless lithe, extremely light on its feet. Beautiful, nuanced elements of autumn leaves, cherry pipe tobacco, pan forte, tar and licorice root come together to offer the proverbial meal in a glass. Nothing about this wine seems manufactured...it is just as it was intended to be. The mouth feel is generous and coating but never to excess, lingering across the palate as it moves to the spicy, tarry, fine finish. Just wonderful. I am converted!
****Azienda Agricola Montevertine, Le Pergole Torte Riserva, IGT, Toscana, 2003: Just showing wonderfully right now. Still nuanced and not overpowering, this wine is an amazing articulation of sangiovese. A mixture of queen anne and sour cherry, accompanied by lavender and rosemary spices and pink peppercorns and finally polished saddle leather and yes, grilled meats all come together to conjure up the Tuscan sun. Perfect weight and balance. Palate features more red fruit and spice, overtones to perfectly integrated acids and a long finish. This wine with homemade pasta and a simple cacio e pepe is a dream. Really special.
****Hazyblur, The Invictus, Barossa Valley, shiraz, 2004: I am admittedly surprised to be including this note, as typically this style of wine does not do it for me. That said, this wine is absolutely delicious. Wonderfully textured and rich, this Aussie shiraz never goes over the top, even though it certainly approaches the summit. Blackberry, blueberry, boysenberry...maybe even snozberry...this wine delights. This melange of fruit is accompanied by black licorice, treacle, chocolate and fig notes...I could not help thinking of a British Christmas pudding. Palate is coating and velvety, adding a mineral element. Finish is firm, a touch sweet and loooong. A long decant allows the primary fruit to really integrate beautifully with the other elements, and adds an autumnal flavor that just adds to the complexity and fun. Quite a treat!
***++Hundred Acre, Ark Vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: I include this wine as a stark contrast to most of the others...but it still ranks as a Wine of Merit to me. Clearly made in that slightly over the top, extended maceration, more is more style, what this wine lacks in nuance and sophistication it makes up for in pure hedonistic delight. Big, effusive notes of plum cobbler, scorched earth, baker's chocolate, pan fried sage and hickory smoked meat waft up from the glass. A meal by itself. The palate is enveloping and generous, the finish like a bear rug in front of a roaring fireplace on a cold winter's night. A wine to be enjoyed for what it is, without any reason for apology. Not for everyone nor every night, but every once in awhile...Fantastic!
***++Aubert, Lauren Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2005: I love where this wine is at right now. Meyer lemon, key lime, orange blossom, slate, laundry right out of the dryer, maybe a hint of something rich like a meringue...just a gorgeous expression of the fruit. Bright acids, a long, mineral note, a slight sprtiz of effervesence and more citrus make the palate sing front to back. Finish is also lively, with more mineral and citrus pith notes. Energizing!
***++Paul Pernot, Carelles, 1er Cru, Volnay, pinot noir, 1995: A great counterpoint to much of what is going on in domestic pinot noir right now. Subtle, nuanced, intersting, this 1er cru volnay embodies what I love about mid level burgundy. Nose of cherry blosom, truffle, Asian spice, a touch of freshly turned earth and oolong tea. Palate is still fresh and lively but more importantly deftly balanced and seamless front to back. Tannins are sweet and fine. A great time to drink this wine.
***++Chateau Leoville Las Cases, St. Julien, Medoc, 1992: First and foremost I am struck by the $28.99 price tag, reminding of times when buying wine made sense. 92 was not considered a great vintage so I am sure I bought these on a bit of a flier. Well, with this risk comes reward. This wine is at its prime right now. Not even requiring a decant, this wine sings at full throat right from the bottle. A melange of plum, cigar tobacco, cedar, blood and kalamata olive waft from the glass with little coaxing. The palate is medium firm and velvet textures, just gliding front to back, offering more plum, minerals and black licorice. Tannins are fine, resolving and finish is of medium length. Finesse in a glass.
***++Cafaro Cellars, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1989: A real throw back and a lovely wine. Joe Cafaro is something of a legend out in Napa and deservedly so. He has a deft hand and really understands how to complement the natural fruit elements of the area...instead of subverting them as so many others do. This wine, from admittedly not a heralded vintage, is beautifully balanced, perfectly integrated and fresh as a daisy. No scorched earth or black cherry syrup here...this wine has great black currant, eucalyptus, sage and mineral notes. It is deep and beautifully delineated. Great structure and grip on the palate with more black fruit and mineral. Firm, long, fine finish. Equally good, picking up a tobacco note, on day two. A testament to the potential of Cali cab when made the right way. Go Joe!
***+Andrew Geoffrey Vineyards, Diamond Mountian, cabernet sauvignon, 2003: A new label for me...and a pleasant surprise! Much more forthcoming than the Diamond Mountain cabs I know well. This wine shows delicious red and black fruit, malabar pepper, tar and a pronounced if underlying, hickory-wood ember element that adds sophistication and depth. The palate is lively and perfectly balanced front to back. The finish is pronounced and suggests that this wine will continue to cellar well. Another super effort from what seems to be a long list of great Diamond Mountian winemakers. Kudos to the Andrew Geoffrey folks.
