Wine Musings Vol#100: A century of wine!

Rather than comment on a smattering of recent wines, I decided to hold back and make this 100th post about the 10 or so best wines I have had over the last 3 months...all Wines of Merit. To whit:

****+Tenuta dell'Orenllaia, Bolgheri, DOC Superiore, 2001: A very special wine indeed. Fresh and vibrant while still big boned, this is a wine that marries elegance and depth with a deft hand. The fruit and structural elements are in perfect balance, with nuances of mineral, tobacco and earth. All of the hoped for elements are there. Finish is long and once again harmonious. First growth Bordeaux quality with that Italian verve and optimism that sets it apart from Mouton or Lafite. A standard. Gorgeous.

****+Schrader Cellars, RBS, Beckstoffer To-kalon vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2006: Ridiculous depth and power. Pure blue and black fruit, graphite, cedar, menthol explode from the glass. Exuberantly youthful and concentrated, this wine still posses the balance and integration required to objectify poise. Really, everything required for a perfect wine is here...it just needs a little time. Delicious now, I am sure this wine will gain even more complexity and nuance with bottle age...if you can wait that long! Magic.

****Verite', La Muse, Sonoma County, 1999: Drinking magnificently well right now, after a two hour decant. Merlot-driven, red berry and mature black cherry notes, lavender, coffee grinds, freshly turned soil create an arousing melange. With time tobacco leaf is added to the mix. A real come hither wine. Coating palate with good structure, beautiful integration and balance. Long, fine finish. Really sophisticated and nuanced, with a pure core of fruit. A pleasure.

****Penfolds, Bin 707, South Australia, cabernet sauvignon, 1988: Wonderful. A hallmark for Aussie cabernet. Focused, maturing notes of violet, cassis, raw tobacco and freshly tanned leather. Mint. Brawny yet supple. Coating, wonderful grip from front to back, with more black fruit, licorice root and minerals. A big framed wine but with poise and dexterity. Did I mention wonderful? Intoxicating.

****Giuseppe Quintarelli, Ca del Merlo, Veneto, valpolicella, 1999: Welcome to the cult of Quintarelli. These folks know that there is valploicella, there is amarone and then there is Quintarelli. This wine does not disappoint. Still showing its youth, this wine is nonetheless lithe, extremely light on its feet. Beautiful, nuanced elements of autumn leaves, cherry pipe tobacco, pan forte, tar and licorice root come together to offer the proverbial meal in a glass. Nothing about this wine seems manufactured...it is just as it was intended to be. The mouth feel is generous and coating but never to excess, lingering across the palate as it moves to the spicy, tarry, fine finish. Just wonderful. I am converted!

****Azienda Agricola Montevertine, Le Pergole Torte Riserva, IGT, Toscana, 2003: Just showing wonderfully right now. Still nuanced and not overpowering, this wine is an amazing articulation of sangiovese. A mixture of queen anne and sour cherry, accompanied by lavender and rosemary spices and pink peppercorns and finally polished saddle leather and yes, grilled meats all come together to conjure up the Tuscan sun. Perfect weight and balance. Palate features more red fruit and spice, overtones to perfectly integrated acids and a long finish. This wine with homemade pasta and a simple cacio e pepe is a dream. Really special.

****Hazyblur, The Invictus, Barossa Valley, shiraz, 2004: I am admittedly surprised to be including this note, as typically this style of wine does not do it for me. That said, this wine is absolutely delicious. Wonderfully textured and rich, this Aussie shiraz never goes over the top, even though it certainly approaches the summit. Blackberry, blueberry, boysenberry...maybe even snozberry...this wine delights. This melange of fruit is accompanied by black licorice, treacle, chocolate and fig notes...I could not help thinking of a British Christmas pudding. Palate is coating and velvety, adding a mineral element. Finish is firm, a touch sweet and loooong. A long decant allows the primary fruit to really integrate beautifully with the other elements, and adds an autumnal flavor that just adds to the complexity and fun. Quite a treat!

***++Hundred Acre, Ark Vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: I include this wine as a stark contrast to most of the others...but it still ranks as a Wine of Merit to me. Clearly made in that slightly over the top, extended maceration, more is more style, what this wine lacks in nuance and sophistication it makes up for in pure hedonistic delight. Big, effusive notes of plum cobbler, scorched earth, baker's chocolate, pan fried sage and hickory smoked meat waft up from the glass. A meal by itself. The palate is enveloping and generous, the finish like a bear rug in front of a roaring fireplace on a cold winter's night. A wine to be enjoyed for what it is, without any reason for apology. Not for everyone nor every night, but every once in awhile...Fantastic!

***++Aubert, Lauren Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2005: I love where this wine is at right now. Meyer lemon, key lime, orange blossom, slate, laundry right out of the dryer, maybe a hint of something rich like a meringue...just a gorgeous expression of the fruit. Bright acids, a long, mineral note, a slight sprtiz of effervesence and more citrus make the palate sing front to back. Finish is also lively, with more mineral and citrus pith notes. Energizing!

***++Paul Pernot, Carelles, 1er Cru, Volnay, pinot noir, 1995: A great counterpoint to much of what is going on in domestic pinot noir right now. Subtle, nuanced, intersting, this 1er cru volnay embodies what I love about mid level burgundy. Nose of cherry blosom, truffle, Asian spice, a touch of freshly turned earth and oolong tea. Palate is still fresh and lively but more importantly deftly balanced and seamless front to back. Tannins are sweet and fine. A great time to drink this wine.

***++Chateau Leoville Las Cases, St. Julien, Medoc, 1992: First and foremost I am struck by the $28.99 price tag, reminding of times when buying wine made sense. 92 was not considered a great vintage so I am sure I bought these on a bit of a flier. Well, with this risk comes reward. This wine is at its prime right now. Not even requiring a decant, this wine sings at full throat right from the bottle. A melange of plum, cigar tobacco, cedar, blood and kalamata olive waft from the glass with little coaxing. The palate is medium firm and velvet textures, just gliding front to back, offering more plum, minerals and black licorice. Tannins are fine, resolving and finish is of medium length. Finesse in a glass.

***++Cafaro Cellars, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1989: A real throw back and a lovely wine. Joe Cafaro is something of a legend out in Napa and deservedly so. He has a deft hand and really understands how to complement the natural fruit elements of the area...instead of subverting them as so many others do. This wine, from admittedly not a heralded vintage, is beautifully balanced, perfectly integrated and fresh as a daisy. No scorched earth or black cherry syrup here...this wine has great black currant, eucalyptus, sage and mineral notes. It is deep and beautifully delineated. Great structure and grip on the palate with more black fruit and mineral. Firm, long, fine finish. Equally good, picking up a tobacco note, on day two. A testament to the potential of Cali cab when made the right way. Go Joe!

***+Andrew Geoffrey Vineyards, Diamond Mountian, cabernet sauvignon, 2003: A new label for me...and a pleasant surprise! Much more forthcoming than the Diamond Mountain cabs I know well. This wine shows delicious red and black fruit, malabar pepper, tar and a pronounced if underlying, hickory-wood ember element that adds sophistication and depth. The palate is lively and perfectly balanced front to back. The finish is pronounced and suggests that this wine will continue to cellar well. Another super effort from what seems to be a long list of great Diamond Mountian winemakers. Kudos to the Andrew Geoffrey folks.

Wine Musings Vol#93

Wine of Merit: ****Araujo, Eisele vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: I am often puzzled by why Araujo does not garner as much praise as many of the other “cult” cabernets from Napa. Maybe it’s the clear choice of elegance and refinement over raw extraction? In any case, it is clearly deserving of high praise. This 2004 is testament. Alluring, sophisticated notes of plum pudding, cured tobacco, cedar and dried fig. Excellent concentration and perfect balance from nose through to back of palate. On the palate minerals, chocolate and mint are added to the plum notes and glide front to back. Fine, resolving finish. Delicious. A great wine experience.

***++Ceritas, Porter Bass vineyard, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2007: This is the third vintage made under this label by the owners of the Porter Bass vineyard. A wonderful wine. Medium weight and at first shy, this wine opened up with a bit of aeration to reveal lemon zest and kafir lime notes, accompanied by orange blossom, grapefruit, wet slate and a mélange of exotic spices. Sturdy structure with excellent acidity and length. While taught, this wine offers a lot of pleasure right now, as well as the promise of more developed notes with time in the cellar. Great effort. Only 88 cases made.

***++Rivers Marie, Thieriot vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2007: An inaugural effort, this chardonnay was far and away the table’s favorite of the night. Right in between the Ceritas and the Aubert efforts, the RM chardonnay hits many of the former wine’s bright fruit notes with a slightly broader, richer palate that includes marzipan and a touch of hazelnut. Palate is generous but focused with a lingering mineral and citrus pith finish. A lovely wine and an amazing value at $45.

***++Aubert, Lauren vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2004: If it is possible, this wine has become even more unctuous over time. Thick, oily, lemony, cardamom laced buttered popcorn, crème brulee and almond. Full, coating mouth feel, candied citrus and minerals. Delicious for it’s over the top, hedonistic nature. Drink soon.

***++Lokoya, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 2003: Served from magnum. I would characterize this wine as very similar in profile to the O’Shaughnessy cabernet listed below, but with more depth and focus. I am not sure if this is attributable to the vintage differences, format differences or otherwise. But this Lokoya adds chalk, a stronger mineral profile and licorice root to the fruited elements. The blue/black fruit is also more focused and youthful. A powerful wine for sure, but with excellent overall symmetry. Another reason to be a Howell Mountain cabernet fan.

***+O’Shaughnessy Vineyards, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 2002: This cab splits the difference between the Merus (below mentioned) and the Araujo. Clearly mountain grown, this wine offers beautifully balanced brambly, deep, dark blue/black fruited cabernet aromas, adding tar, lead pencil and smoke. Not vague in any way, but much more extracted than the Araujo, it also adds a touch of green sweetness I associate with spearmint. Firm-ish palate, excellent oak integration, long finish. A very worthy effort made by folks who clearly take pride in the Howell Mountain terroir.

***+Merus, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: Where the Araujo focuses on balance and integration, Merus substitutes depth and concentration. Almost aussie like in its primary fruit focus. Black and blue berry fruit preserves, cocoa powder, licorice root. A deep, thick iteration of cabernet. A bit ponderous, but still fun and very much delicious in a “…and for desert I’ll take the 5 lb. banana split sundae challenge! (gasps heard around the table)” kind of way. If you believe more is more, then Merus is for you. Even the bottle is oversized for a typical 750ml. Big!

***+ Chateau Langoa Barton, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 2000: A sister wine of the famed Ch. Leoville Barton. This wine has verve. Refreshingly NOT from Napa, one is immediately confronted with exuberant black fruit laced with animal, nicoise olive and bay leaf notes. The palate continues the assault, including a saline element, baker’s chocolate and racy red and black currants. Full, powerful, long tannic finish. Great with food. A yummy wine from a dynamite vintage. Drink or hold.

Wine Musings Vol#79

Wine of Merit: **** Domaine Philippe Delesvaux, Anthologie, Coteaux du Layon, chenin blanc, 1997: Wow. Initially I feared this wine had suffered poor storage and had been oxidized; the cork was brittle and the color a very dark amber. Lucky for us this was not the case and the wine was excellent, if of disconcerting color. Initially the nose was pure black mission fig jam; a touch earthy, ripe, sweet (the wine has 535 gr. of residual sugar!) and deep. With time, the wine added more traditional botrytis nuances...lichee, ripe persimmon, thick clover honey, nectarine, vanilla orchid. The palate was thick and excellent, adding orange marmalade, caramel, biscotti and baking spices,a touch of brandy. Perhaps influenced by the color, a few said it reminded them of a vin santo. The finish was excellent; spicy and seemingly endless. I am sure storage has played some role here but the experience was outstanding.

***++Chateau de Baucastel, Chateau Neuf du Pape, 1994: A lovely wine. Initially offering complex, rustic, barnyard and grilled meat notes, this wine unfurled with time to offer very focused blackberry, herb, licorice root and iron aromas. Further development in the glass offered a floral hint of violet and lavender. The palate was lively, with more black fruit, pepper, minerals and brier. The palate is fine and firm. An excellent bottle.

***++Beringer Private reserve, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1991: The essence of Napa. Just stuffed with wonderful, deep, red and black stone fruit, cassis, cedar and a hint of chalky, wet slate. The palate is deep, concentrated and chewy, surprisingly youthful yet still deftly integrated. The tannins are fine and the finish long. A great ambassador for the area - a wine I would consider a first growth, or at the very least a super second, of the Napa Valley.

***++Chateau Montelena, estate, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1995 (from magnum): Speaking of ambassadors! Here is another wonderful example of what the left coast has to offer. Signature notes of mature plum, chocolate, a hint of soy, black tea and licorice. Vibrant. The palate is downright juicy, vivacious and fun to be around. Great balance. More feminine than the Beringer but not fragile or dainty, this wine is stacked. Just plain old yummy. The mag disappeared in a heartbeat. Drinking great right now.

***++Kongsgaard, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2004: I believe the 2004 vintage of Kongsgaard chards suffers in comparison with the 2003 and 2005. Still very much a worthy wine, it does not show quite the depth and concentration of the other two vintages. That said, this wine is stunning. If a bit demure, it has a stunning mineral focus, accompanied by bright marzipan, Meyer lemon and honeyed kaffir lime notes. the palate is bright and intense, more taught than other vintages, with resounding minerals and a long, Asian spice imbued finish. Great stuff!

***Clos Pegase, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Lovely and surprisingly fresh. Perhaps the first of the "let's take a large fortune and turn it into a small fortune" wineries in the Napa Valley...see Revana, Vineyard 29, Darioush, etc. This wine is nonetheless very legit. Dominated by red fruit, morrels, eucalyptus, tisane and spice, the wine is elegant and expertly crafted. The palate glides, offering good concentration, weight and balance. The finish is fine and medium to long, with spicy oak notes at the tail. Delicious and worth the wait.

***Matanzas Creek, Sonoma, merlot, 1991: I have had some success with older Matanzas Creek merlots, so I had some hopes for the longevity of this wine. It is delicious, if perhaps on the downward slope. Mature plum, blackberry and lavender mix with tertiary bell pepper, garrigue and iodine notes. Hints of mineral, vanilla and violet. The palate is full, receding here and there, with more overripe plum, violet and chocolate. The finish is of medium length and fine. Probably more vibrant and primal in its youth, it is still fun and perhaps more complex now...and very much worth drinking tonight.

A quick P.S.: The ****Aubert, Lauren Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay 2004 continues to be a breath taking, wonderful, amazing chardonnay. My notes from January of last year (Musings Vol#46) remain almost identical this week.

Wine Musings Vol#69

Wine of Merit: ***+White Cottage Ranch, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Really I think this is the wine I was hoping for when we popped the cork on the Dunn 1990, perhaps with the added depth that Dunn is so noted for. Lovely. Nicely nuanced black fruit, bramble and licorice root. The fruit retains its White Cottage signature juiciness but has toned down the exuberance a bit. This wine really vindicates owner/winemaker Dennis Johns’ fervent point of view that wines need not be austere upon release to age well…the secret ingredient is balance. By the way, if you ever get a chance to venture out to the area, make an appointment to visit with Dennis. His exubernace is wonderful...and catching. 13 years out and the wine flows front to back with nary a drop out, offering wonderful mountain fruit flavors, integration, great mouth feel and a middle weight, peppery sweet finish that invites you back for more. And I will oblige! Delicious.

***+Aubert, Reuling vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2004: Having recently tried the UV vineyard, I thought it would be opportune to try the other vineyard designate, the Reuling. I find the wines to be similar. Big, powerful pinot noir. Not as abrasive or extracted as many of the recently popular Central Coast offerings (Sea Smoke, Melville) but still more masculine iterations of the varietal. Black cherry liquor, peppermint candy syrup, church incense, all commingle to create a heady mélange. The palate follows suit, mouth filling, a touch vague. And it brings the heat. Finish is powerful as well. I wonder if this will all come around with time…I am currently a skeptic. Candidly I appreciate the style…but it is not really for me.

***Ridge, Jimsomare ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains, cabernet sauvignon, 1994 (ATP): I will admit to not having a lot of success with the ATP program, which ended up being a kind of island of the misfit toys thing that Ridge did (maybe they still do) with small lots of interesting varietals, vineyards and blends. I am happy to report that this wine is one of the exceptions. Even though Draper suggests that this wine was more near term than not, the experience dictates that this is exactly the right time to drink this wine. Perfectly integrated, the wine still boasts lovely, feminine red berry, cassis fruit, spice and a fair touch of American oak. The palate is racy and lively but not overly so and very much a pleasure, perhaps adding a nice touch of minerals. Here again, no thinning in the middle, no drop off at the lively, peppery end. A lovely food wine with roasted rosemary infused poultry and some red potatoes. Very nice indeed.

**++Double Diamond, Bomber X, Lake County, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: As anyone can tell you, I am a huge Thomas Brown fan. That said, this wine is really not made in my style. And I know it is not the fruit, as this is pretty much the same area from which 75 Cellars makes their great QPR cab (see 75 cellars review). This wine is made more in the Plump Jack, Husic style with more extraction, chocolate covered raisin, plum and Asian spice style The palate is lively if a bit racy, the presence of oak pronounced, the finish firm with a touch of green wood right at the end. I know these wines are made by Schrader to offer a low price alternative to his estate wines. And I think many will like this wine very much and find it a bargain. But the 2006 letter just came out with a price increase to $30 a bottle…and I will not be ordering.

Wine Musings Vol#66: The Cru Dinner (II)

Wine of Merit: *****Henri Jayer, Vosne Romanee, Cros Parantoux, 1er Cru, Cote D'Or, 1990: The undisputed wine of the evening and really a benchmark for every bottle of wine I have had to this point. Ever. One quick dip of the nose into the glass pricks the senses, immediately pointing to something ethereal and rare. Burgundian elements of ripe black cherry, rose petal, fresh soil after a light rain, a mixture of freshly ground nutmeg and a touch of Indian spice…a nuance of exotic Mariage Freres fruited white tea...white truffle? With so much to offer upfront, I approached the palate with some trepidation. It does not disappoint. Full but perfectly delineated, one almost rushes past the signature fruit, forest floor, pepper and green tea… buoyed by the otherworldly palate feel and balance. It seems effortless, fresh and serene, somehow reminding me of walking the beaches of Anguilla at nightfall while the ocean layered caressing wave break upon wave break on the white sandy shores. This wine transported me that way. Long, spread out finish that just fans as it leaves its impression on the palate. And perhaps the most amazing thing...It somehow improved with food, the acidity and mouth feel of the wine binding itself to the flavors of the meal to contribute to an even greater high. It was not me who called Burgundy the Cocaine of wines…but I see it. The Grail.

***+Aubert, UV vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2004: The shame of having to be paired with the Jayer wine. Almost a crime. A high school prom queen introduced next to Catherine DeNeuve in her prime. Still, one must appreciate what it has to offer. Deep, lush Sonoma Coast sugar plum and blackberry fruit, floral violet, black cherry liquor and necco wafer sweetness, a touch of pine needle and forest floor, this wine is made in much more of the now very popular Robert Parker-esque pinot noir style. But while it skates dangerously close, it restrains itself from crossing that pinot-becomes-syrah edge that many Sonoma and Central coast pinots dash right over. I would describe the palate as rubenesque – full, rich and generous, tending toward fleshy, with more of the black cherry and baker’s spiciness, complemented by a small, lingering heat wave as the finish retreats off the tongue. I believe Robert Parker called this wine prodigious…and I will give it that. Similar to the Marcassin, a wine to appreciate if not enjoy. I brought this wine to the dinner and candidly felt punked by the Jayer inclusion…though, as Leopardi once put it – “…il naufragar mi e dolce in questo mare” (…being shipwrecked in this sea is sweet to me).

***+Charles Jouget, Clos de la dioterie, Chinon, 1990: I just loved this quixotic, wonderfully ebullient chinon. Not that it had bubbles…but it had energy and panache! Bright, effusive briny, green olive jumps from the glass. It is so fresh and focused. Under ripe blueberries, fresh sage, maybe a touch of cigar smoke and minerals…super interesting. The palate flows like a brook; light to medium weight, intense and vivacious. Good sap and a lovely if surprising black cherry sweetness mid palate, accompanied by more pronounced violet/lavender that reminded me of that C Howard violet gum that you don’t see anymore. What a great expression of Cabernet Franc. Terrific.

****Sine Qua Non, In Flagrante, Central Coast, syrah, 2000: Another amazing wine. I love all of the SQN wines…and I loved this one too. Deep, almost bottomless expression of black fruit, licorice root, Malabar pepper, shoe polish and wet slate pour from the glass. The co-fermented viognier and very healthy dose of new oak contribute wonderful floral and vanillin nuances. Nothing shy here, this wine is a colossus…but I would venture the friendly giant sort. I admit that this syrah may lack the deft balance and touch of an Eric Texier wine, but I honestly don’t think that is what we are going for here. Not to say this wine is not at once silky and exuberant, stuffed but still wonderfully integrated, muscular but well proportioned…in my opinion it is all of those things. It is just that this wine is made to be a romp, a tussle and not a ballroom dance. I mean, just look at the label! Great juice that must be appreciated and yes enjoyed for the flight of fancy it is. I will buy as much as they (Robb) send my way and be grateful for it. Perhaps not quite as good (meaning polished, integrated and nuanced) as the 1996 Against the Wall, but a signature wine nonetheless.

Wine Musings Vol#54

Wine of Merit: ***Covenant, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: While this is not the best wine I have had over the past month, it is very much a wine of merit. Why? Because it aspires to be not only a great kosher for Passover wine, but a great wine period. Sourced from larkmead fruit, this wine cuts no corners. Juicy, ripe black currant fruit-driven style, this wine also exhibits nice cassis, grilled meats and lavender notes. It is lavishly oaked - perhaps a bit too for my palate, bringing with it almond / vanilla notes and baker's spices. The palate is full and coating but also firm with very good length. This young wine should have ample cellar life ahead of it. Of course the $90 a pop asking price pre-supposes at the very least this level of quality - good to see that it delivers. Also wins the all label award!

***++Chateau Ducru Beaucalliou, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1998: I have posted previously on this wine. Notes remain consistent. Dynamite, St. Julien nose of iodine, camphor, herbs, red and black fruit, tobacco. Velvety palate but with plenty of depth and length. A wine to enjoy now decanted or let rest for awhile still. Top Notch.

***+Rivers Marie, Occidental Ridge vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2006: Lovely. Very Sonoma coast. Deep, deep dark black cherry fruit, forest floor, rosemary, mulling spices. A singularly focused element of blood orange that becomes more pronounced as the wine opens. Beautiful balance – a big wine with plenty of backbone. Serious.

***+Chateau D’Yquem, Lur Saluces, Bordeaux, sauternes, 1997: From split. You know, I love sauternes. Less for the wonderful aromatics, like the candied orange rind, white flowers, nutmeg and lichee that this wine shows, than for the oily, viscous, coating, unctuous mouth feel. It just slithers, coats, envelops you…to quote Old School, “Once it hits your lips it’s so good!” This 1997 does not really show the pumped up aromatics of truly great Yquem…but the palate…ohhhhh my! Very nice indeed, with wonderful depth and great length. I don’t think it will ever achieve the other worldliness of the 1976, nor does it have the stuffing of the 2001…but it will do! Drink or Hold.

***Jocelyn Lonen, Sangiacomo vineyard, Sonoma County, chardonnay, 2006: Super. I love Sangiacomo fruit – both chard and merlot. Bright, spicy, lemony, verbena. A bit racy on the palate…good minerals, nice oak integration. Reminds me a lot of the Shafer Red Shoulders Ranch bottling. Long, spicy finish. All in all very nice.

A few abbreviated updates: The ****Eric Texier Cote Rotie VV, 2001 is still simply mind blowing. An amazing, seemingly unending assembly of flavors, all perfectly integrated and balanced. This wine can be had for under $50 a bottle - which to me would seem to be almost criminal and certainly a screaming buy. The ****Aubert, Ritchie vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2004 is quickly becoming my favorite chardonnay in the world. So consistent, so perfumed, so deep…just a wonderful example of great chardonnay. ***Failla, Keefer vineyard, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2005 is also delicious, in a much more understated, malic, slightly more brisk kind of way. More of the Mersault style than the Corton like Aubert. Lovely. The ****Pol Roger, Sir Winston Churchill cuvee, Eperney, champagne, 1990 is a classic. Outstanding example of bottle aged, vintage champagne. Still vibrant and frisky, it shows great citrus and lavender, with yeasty baked apple notes. lemon curd and cardamom. Endless depth, wonderful palate feel, long finish. Superlative – and very much ready to drink now.

Wine Musings Vol#47

Wine of Merit: ***++Ca’ Marcanda, Magari, Bolgheri, Toscana IGT, 2000: Our Maremma journey continues. This wine is produced by Angelo Gaja, he of Barolo and Barbaresco fame. “Magari” can be translated from Italian to mean “If Only”…and while I do not know the context for this wine, I can say that “Magari all wines were this delicious!” Similar to Ornellaia, Magari is focused on Bordeaux varietals, in this case 50% Merlot with the remaining 50% equally divided between Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc. And yet this is clearly, wonderfully Italian. Just a dynamite wine. Immediately expressive, the Italian coastal merlot and cab franc eagerly offer deep, ripe plum, saddle leather, grilled meats and licorice. Palate nuances include more red and black berry fruit, chocolate, tobacco and spice. While opulent and open, this wine still offers a perfectly integrated tannic backbone that keeps everything in balance from start to the long, fine finish. Exceptional.

***++Aubert, The Quarry Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2004: Having recently opened both the Ritchie and Lauren vineyard iterations, I thought I would try the Quarry. I am familiar with the vineyard from Peter Michael Winery and wanted to see how if at all it changed in Mark Aubert’s hands (of course Mark made Peter Michael wines before moving on to his namesake endeavor). I suppose the bottom line is that this wine is equally delicious, though nuanced in different ways. Where both the Ritchie and Lauren wines are oily, unctuous wines, I find this vineyard designate a bit more high toned and bright. The fruit profile just seems more vivid, slightly more malic and the mineral notes more pronounced. It offers heady, perfumed aromas of lemon curd and marzipan, but key lime and green apple are added. The palate is still full and rich, with new wood integration adding delicious spice and café elements. Still, it is not quite as round as the others, the acids a bit brighter. This wine is in no way a lesser wine, just a slightly different style, perhaps more Mersualt to the others Corton. And I have had wines from this vineyard that age effortlessly for a decade – and I bet this one will too. A lovely addition to the portfolio (though I understand that this vineyard will not be included in 2006).

***+Flowers, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2002: This is a deep, sappy pinot. Darker fruit, floral tisane and briar notes are intense but not overpowering. The palate is muscular and toned, offering more red fruit, deep minerals, Asian spice and very nice new oak integration. Acids are still bright but not racy. The finish is long and while firm still very much in balance with the overall wine. I have to say this is not the first Flowers wine that I have found to improve significantly with bottle age – the rough edges really do smooth out, allowing for appreciation of the depth and nuance these wines can deliver. Maybe Walt Flowers should be thinking like Ampeau and releasing these things later in their life…I think this wine could probably continue to improve with a few more years in the cellar, though it is delicious now.

**+Lion’s Run, Vintner’s Reserve, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2002: A wine and winery I had not seen before. Evidently it is a Gary Galleron boutique project. Given all of the Galleron successes, certainly worth trying. This wine is extremely ripe, showing off a black cherry, chocolate liquor and a pine needle bouquet. Thick in the mid palate, more ripe fruit, melted licorice and chocolate, along with lavish oak elements. Medium finish. A nice wine to drink with a chocolate desert or a cheese plate.

Wine Musings Vol#46

Wine of Merit: ****Aubert, Lauren Vineyard, Sonoma coast, chardonnay, 2004: Very Special. Even more Burgundian than the Ritchie vineyard. Rich, perfumed, unctuous nose of clover honey, white flowers, marzipan and linseed. Over time, more tropical fruit is added. Fat, but not flabby, the palate shows more candied orange zest, lovely minerals and a hint of café latte. Finish is long, with Asian spice and more citrus. Like the Ritchie, I am impressed that a wine of this complexity can still be so seamlessly presented and so fresh. So worth it - though on the open market it is getting pricey.

***++Favia, Cerro Sur, Napa valley, cabernet franc, 2004: Wonderful, open knit signature of ripe plum, red fruit, espresso and black truffle. Very inviting – like a crackling fire on a winter day. The palate is seamlessly integrated and coating, and not shy on oak, adding licorice, sandalwood and baker’s chocolate. Firm, fine finish that still integrates beautifully with the rest of the palate tells me that this wine is age worthy – meaning it is great now and I am sure will develop added complexity and nuance if you can just keep you hands off of it in the short term. Good luck! I bought a few bottles at Amanti Vino but will buy more, even at $80+.

***++Andrew Will, Ciel du Cheval Red, Washington State, 2005: Fabulous. I have paid tribute to Chris Camarada in other postings…I dig his wines very much. They age effortlessly and always put balance and flavor integration at the head of the class – where they belong. This wine is simply delicious. Ripe and velvety, it offers warm, merlot-driven aromas and flavors of blackberry, violets, black cherry and mocha. Plenty of well integrated oak. The cab franc adds yummy black truffle, bay leaf and earth. Satiny, lush, but not flabby at all it still has great concentration, nice minerals and even though very approachable – a promise of a long life. The finish is long, succulent and sweet. Dynamite. At $50 a pop I would buy this before I would buy say Blackbird vineyard merlot from Napa – not that the latter is not delicious…it is just $30 more a bottle and I’m not sure why.

***++Beringer, Private Reserve, Napa valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1990: I have heard about inconsistent aging for this wine, so I wasn’t sure. Instead it was lovely. Juicy, almost chewy…delicious, right out of the bottle. Elements of ripe plums and chocolate covered blueberry, licorice root and fresh topsoil…wonderfully complex and intense but very much integrated. This wine has great stuffing…it approaches my “meal in a glass” definition. The palate is expansive and shows off that juicy-fruit goodness. The finish is long and silky. Nice balance throughout. A wine you can very much enjoy now, though it is not going anywhere soon. Hooray!

***+Paolo Scavino, Carobric, Barolo, 2000: Poetic. Lyrical. Surprisingly light in hue and intensity of color, the wine still delivers lovely, almost pinot like aromas of red currant, ripe plum and black cherry fruit, slate, green tea and spice box. With time more blue fruit and a beautiful candied violet. The palate is still very firm, adding more minerals and briar. Great, seamless structure. Long, fine finish – lots to spare here. Amazing how the fragile flavors complement the huge frame in almost a harmonic way. Wine as song! Surprisingly affordable at under $70.

***+JL Chave, Silene, Crozes Hermitage, 2005: What a buy this wine is. Available at under $20 a pop, this unassuming Crozes is well crafted, almost delicate and absolutely delicious. Bright red cherry and currant fruit, a nuance of garrigue, briar and cracked pepper, each element amazingly detailed, jump from the glass. The palate is also bright and lively, with a nice backbone from beginning to end, red fruit and iron, the finish medium-long, peppery and fine – a great food wine. Easy to drink, correct, could be a killer every day wine…as in I could drink it everyday! Super!

**++Eric Texier, Brezeme Pergault VV, Cotes du Rhone, 2005: Texier and I definitely see eye to eye. He has a clear and strong appreciation for balance, integration and natural flavors. This CdR was offered by Crush Wines in NYC as their best buy in 2007 (@$26). It is an old vines, 100% syrah based wine. In fact, it is much more Hermitage than it is Cotes du Rhone. Initially very racy red/blue berry, pine needle and chalk and camphor, time in the glass reveals bacon fat, grilled meat and groovy Mediterranean / North African spices. Wonderful integration of flavors and aromas. The palate perhaps is more CdR, bright acids, black pepper, more red fruit and olives – but still showing a strong backbone. Long, firm finish. This wine shows the balance and structure that will reward aging. Very nice.

**+Herman Story, White Hawk vineyard, syrah, Santa Barbara county, 2005: I was drawn to this wine because of its shared provenance with our own Trois Fils syrah, of the same vintage. Further, this wine has received accolades; including a 93 point score from Vinfolio and an assertion that winemaker Russell From was their “Winemaker of the Year”. Fair enough. To the wine: Trois Fils on steroids! It is the wine Pax would have made with my grapes. Everything about it is, in my opinion, exaggerated. 16.2% alcohol, it is a huge wine, with a fiercely tannic backbone and maximum extraction. The fruit characteristics are almost identical to Trois Fils; baked blueberry cobbler, mulling spices, vanilla bean, white flowers…all there with perhaps a more syrupy juiciness about them. The palate and finish are disjointed, at once fat and harsh. It has an added element of briar and green-ness…I am guessing because of an increased addition of stems or “whole cluster” as it is called (Trois Fils is whole berry, no stems). Honestly, very much a Pax-let’s-make-jet-fuel style of wine that I am sure Parker would love. Russell From says that as a winemaker he is more a carpenter than an architect…he sees himself as a cook, using the best ingredients – and I would agree. I think this wine lacks finesse…it is not like art that emerges from its medium but it is rather built from components - much more a recipe wine. Regardless of pride of authorship, I find it yummy but recognize that the White Hawk vineyard can make better wine. I think I should add a star to the Trois Fils rating!

Wine Musings Vol#41

Wine of Merit: *****Laurel Glen Estate Sonoma Mountain Reserve, cabernet sauvignon, 1990: Just writing the wine notes for this gives me goose bumps. A quick story: Patrick Campbell, the owner and winemaker at Laurel Glen, has only made a few reserves in the history of this storied winery. He has never submitted them for review. For the 1990 he bottled only 300 magnums, which he only sold through his customer list and gave to friends. And he also bottled a handful of Methuselahs – or 6 liter bottles. And he gave me one as a gift (I assisted him with the naming of one of his wines)! And we opened it for Thanksgiving 2007. I will forever be indebted. I have had this wine once before, over 10 years ago. It was truly an amazing and remarkable wine then. Funny thing, I went back to my notes and they were almost identical to the notes I am about to publish. Then, like now, I noted the signature elements that allow for a favorable comparison to the very best that Leoville Las Cases has ever had to offer – indeed Patrick has always made, in my opinion, very Bordelaise wines, with amazing depth, concentration and balance – the elements I most prize. With moderate coaxing, this wine reveals a whole cornucopia of nuances, loamy earth, truffle, deep red fruit, tar, Gaeta olive, melted licorice, baker’s chocolate. Wow. 15 minutes in, the wine is signing and downright youthful (I am sure the large format helped). Sensational. No surprise, this wine is only 12.5% alcohol, not fooling the palate with numbing thickness but instead relying on the natural weight and structure to provide great, indeed voluminous mouth feel, with more fruit, chocolate, olive and minerals. The finish is long and succulent, gaining power over time, youthful and still very strong. I am sure this wine is good for another 5 to 7 years at the least, but is amazing to drink right now. Thank you, Patrick!

****Aubert, Ritchie Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2004: Every bit as good as previously noted. Tonight it is the freshness that strikes me as particularly alluring. Sure, the wine is wonderfully nuanced and complex, sure the viscous oily mouth feel and weight connote a serious effort. Still, with everything this wine has going on, it is fresh and bright, not heavy handed at all. Really special. A delight.

***Medlock Ames, Bell Mountain, Alexander Valley rose, 2006: Different from most rose wines which start fresh and then degrade over time, this wine is actually getting better with a bit of bottle age. The flavors are integrating and the wine itself is becoming more harmonious…an even greater pleasure to drink. As noted, a wonderful food fine – I had this with some sushi and a groovy “Caribbean Roll” - spicy tuna, avocado and fried banana and walnut on top. Lovely.

***Clos Pegase, Hommage Artist Series, Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon, 1993: I am a sucker for Artist series labels. Mouton, Kenwood and yes Clos Pegase. While the latter two will never be confused for the former, the labels are beautiful and the wines are expertly crafted – and well worth purchasing. This wine has softened substantially since release but is absolutely not over the hill. In fact some mild coaxing releases lovely, nuanced red fruit, plum, cardamom and Asian spice from the glass. The palate has thinned slightly – offering red fruit, licorice root and nutmeg - but there is no drop off front to back and the finish is resolved but fine and very pleasant. A great wine to have with a yummy herbed soft cheese or a nice roasted bird. Delicious.

*++Deloach, RRV, chardonnay, 2004: This winery has gone through quite a bit of transformation. Initially quirky and making handcrafted wines (some very good some not) the winery was sold by the founders to Big Vino in 2003. Recently Greg LaFolette, he of Flowers and Tandem fame, has been making the wine. While not something to search out (the pinot is in fact something to avoid), the chardonnay is not all that bad –in a Costco wine around $12 kind of way. Not overblown, it is pleasant and well balanced. Hibiscus, pear and Meyer lemon. Not super concentrated…light on the palate but not thin. Finish shows some spice and more citrus. A wine that, if they were serving it at a Bar Mitvah, I would happily drink.

*+Rutz Cellars, Dutton Ranch, RRV pinot noir, 1993: I believe this was a very early attempt by the folks at Rutz…I can only hope the winemaking has improved. The issue with this wine is not that it has aged poorly – in fact my recollection of this wine on release is that it has actually improved a bit with time. Still, this wine is hot, disjointed and over manufactured. It does offer some nice notes of typical varietal fruit, black cherry liquor, vanilla and green tea. It is unfortunately more than a little over extracted, astringent with way too much oak making for a bitter attack and finish. Not very pleasant, though with air it softens a bit.

Wine Musings #34

Wine of Merit: ***++Demeter Zoltan, Tokaji Furmint, 2001: Zoltan Demeter is considered something of a young gun in Tokaj – he accepts no foreign investment and makes wine as he feels it should be made. If this wine is any indication, he has it figured out. This is a late harvest, sauterne styled wine, with wonderful purity, depth and focus. Bright apricot, Lichee nut, honey, mandarin orange…the flavors are focused, crisp vibrant and wonderfully integrated across a lively palate. Really super and a great find. While I do not profess great knowledge of Hungarian wines, this is clearly a winner and bodes well for further exploration!

***+Kalin DD Sonoma pinot noir, 1997: I have tasted this wine before and found it tired. Not so today. Delicious, sophisticated, wonderful varietal notes. The bottle age adds some nuance of a floral tisane to the nose, tree bark, along with pretty, delicate red fruit and spice. The body of the wine is still very much firm and intact and, at least today, this wine is presenting at its peak. Really wonderful and another example of why Kalin makes just superb wines (try their Semillion too – it is unique and wonderful).

***Brogan Cellars Russian River Valley, pinot noir, 2005: Made by Burt Williams daughter Margi. These wines lack the finesse and balance of the WS wines but are delicious none the less. Deep, deep dark, chocolate covered black cherry notes, cola, peppermint…this wine is aggressively fruit forward and extracted for maximum affect. Fat on the palate with a nice round mouth feel and style-y, spicy finish, I would recommend this wine for the shorter to mid term. Nice!

***Alloro Vineyard, Estate, Willamette Valley, pinot noir, 2004: Wow. This is a serious, old school rustic pinot. After so many cherry fruit, cola driven wines this is a stand out for its willingness to be different. More Pommard than RRV, this Willamette wine offers loamy top soil, bay leaf, green olive, tar and grilled meats and lavender along with powerful red fruit notes. Full but maybe a smidge racy on the palate, the finish is firm and has some pucker to it. Huh. A wine to be admired and probably laid done for a bit.

***Orin Swift, The Prisoner, Napa Valley, 2004: This is a wine that makes no bones about what it is up to: This is about fun – a zin cab syrah mix that tastes great. Brambly, black berry fruit. Toned down a bit since release, adding a bit more sophistication and nuance – you can now pick out the minerals, autumn leaves and mint – it is still exuberant and showy. Yummy in the short term – better than I remember it.

**La Jota, Howell Mountain cabernet sauvignon, 1991: Many folks consider La Jota to be kind of a poor man’s Dunn. I have never thought so. While it does often possess that austere structure and black, brambly mountain fruit, I have never found it to have the balance and integration, let alone the depth, of Randy Dunn’s wine. And structure with a lack of balance is a hollow promise. Case in point this 1991. It has aged itself into a crotchety, lean mountain cab. The fruit has matured and developed more redness. The aromas have mellowed, adding some green olive and rosemary notes. The palate has thinned, still showing bramble, pine and chalk in reserve and the finish can still take the enamel off of your teeth. A slightly better than average wine which has matured to just average, even from this excellent vintage.

***++Silver Oak, Alexander Valley cabernet sauvignon, 2000: It has become fashionable to make fun of Silver Oak over recent years, mostly because of the lavish amounts of NAO that it uses and its recipe driven wine making style. Net/net is that this is a delicious wine from an otherwise difficult vintage. Fresh, lively fruit driven style offering excellent concentration and depth with cigar box and toasty vanilla. Not as much of the signature Alexander green olive element that frankly I think makes this wine more interesting than the Napa. More jammy, berry fruit on the palate with some smoke and minerals and yes, lots of mocha / café latte from the new oak. Finish is deep and long. Dynamite wine. I was glad to enjoy it!

***+Molly Dooker, Enchanted Path, Shiraz Cabernet, McLaren Vale, 2005: Made by the folks who until recently brought you Marquis Phillips wines from down under. This is one of those full throttle, high extract wines that Robert Parker gives ridiculous scores to (and wins the all world label contest - great stuff, right?). I cracked it open just to see what the hype was about. All in all, not bad, though not my cup of tea – or should I say prune juice. In fact, the wine has almost a prune juice color – deep, dark and brooding. Super fat and heady (16% alcohol) this wine has aromas of candied black cherry, crème de cassis and yes prune Danish. On the palate there is an even greater sense of baked, candied fruit, almost like a panforte or a shoefly pie kinda thing, though it is remarkably lively for the weight. The finish is strong but fine and sweet as well. Fun wine, not a wine I will be buying by the case.

****Aubert, Ritchie Vineyard chardonnay, RRV, 2004: I have posted on this wine before, but it was drinking so well tonight I thought it deserved the bump. Wonderful intensity and nuanced aromas of buttered popcorn, linseed oil and pineapple. Great complexity on the palate with liquid minerals and marzipan accompanying the fruit and lemon zest. While in the past I would give the nod to the Ramey effort form this vineyard, tonight this wine nudges ahead. If you have it in the cellar, stand it up (it is very cloudy) and then giver ‘er a pour. Good stuff.

Wine Musings Vol#23

From Notes taken June, 2006:

Wine of Merit: ****Notorious, Patricia Green Cellars, Yamhill County pinot noir, 2004: It’s a big promise – and it delivers. Nice. Very burgundian – but clearly from Oregon - with earth, black truffle, cola and ripe black cherry. Nutmeg and Asian spices. A touch of pine needles.

****Chateau Gruaud Larose 1978: Wow. I have had this wine many times and it has never been this good. Surprisingly powerful right from the bottle. Nose of petrol, sous bois, ripe black fruit and menthol. Big. Palate is full, with a much greater purity of black and red fruit. Exotic spices. Finish is firm. Meal in a glass. The reason I fell in love with G-L many years ago.

*****Kongsgaard Cahrdonnay, 2003: Same as last time. Best new world chard I have ever had. Period. Orange marzipan, candied lemon zest, mascarpone. Chiffon, perfect meringue with a taste of hazelnut. Mission figs. The cocaine of chardonnay.

***+Donnhoff, Neiderhauser Hermansholle, Spatelese, troken, 2002: I am sure that the description is not the complete label – what is it with the Germans? Anyway, this Riesling is the real deal. Lichee, roasted pine nuts, anise – sweet but also spiced. Viscous but not cloying at all – focused and intense. A serious wine. I loved it and bought a case. Easy to drink a lot of. No wonder they Germans lost the war. They cracked a few of these and before you know it – wham!- here come the allies and Fritz can’t even stand up. Delish!

***++Aubert, Ritchie Vineyard, Chardonnay, 2004: Interesting wine. The palate is wonderful. Great, pear and meyer lemon. Nutmeg, anise. Bright and youthful, with great balance and integration. The color is downright cloudy. I mean like, cloudy chance of rain, cloudy. Perhaps it is not stabilized. Delicious.

***Ferrari Carano Cabernet Reserve, 1992: A serious wine with a groovy label. I have always liked this cab – it shows great grip, dust tannins and wonderfully full, fruit driven mouth feel across the entire palate. Probably a touch better younger – this wine still pleases as it has gained in stature and sophistication, showing some bramble and pepper along side the black fruit and menthol. Solid.