Showing posts with label Behrens and Hitchcock. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Behrens and Hitchcock. Show all posts

Saturday, May 19, 2007

Wine Musings LTD: All Roads Lead to Rhone


From notes taken January, 2007:


All Roads Lead to Rhone:

Following is a brief summary of my tasting notes from our Syrah and Syrah-ish wine tasting held Saturday, January 14th. It was a wonderful event, probably the best wines we have served as a whole at one of these things, and I am appreciative of all those who could attend. Wines were served blind:

Pre-flight wines:

***++Didier Dageneau Silex, 1996: Lovely if unusual. Fully mature, deep yellow hue, lots going on. Dried pineapple, honeyed truffle oil and gooseberry were some of the descriptors being thrown out there. I buy it all. Not your father’s chardonnay. A serious white with great, full mouth feel and generous complexity.

**++Linda Domas Salience, 2005: Hard to believe it is the same grape. Lovely, surprisingly restrained, almost fragile. Great, tropical fruit notes and a light, lithe palate. Wonderful for a hot, summer day and some light food. Yum.

First Flight:

**++Henschke Keyneton, 1986: Mature and very much ready to drink. Bricking at the rim. Red fruit, grilled meats, pepper, some herbs. Firm finish, light mid palate. Very fine.

***Ch. Beaucastel, CNdP, 1988: Also very mature in color and nose, iodine, baked blueberry pie, a little racy on the palate, morer fruit, herbs and asian spices. Very firm on the finish. Yummy!

****Sean Thackery Orion, 1987: Special. Dark concentrated wine. Chocolate, mint, exotic spices, blackberry preserves. Velvety, delicious. Killer Diller.

DQ: Jaboulet, La Chapelle, 1989: Corked. Palate was mature and inviting, with red fruit and evolving complexities as it sat in the glass – but the nose was musty. I have had much better bottles.

Second Flight:

****++Sean Thackery, Orion 1995: Wow! One of the wines of the day, and there were some great wines. Licorice, blackberry, pine needles, anise seed. Great concentration and purity. No drop off at all, though sweet integration and balance. A serious wine.

****Ch Rayas, CNdP Reserve, 1990: A heralded wine. Delicious, animal, raisins, raspberry. Maturer and a bit demure. Nicely integrated. Lovely.

***++Penfolds Bin 920, 1990: Much better than the rep. Mautring, rose petal, red fruit, briar, tar. I liked this wine very much, even in its showier company. A stately wine.

****Jaboulet, La Chapelle, 1995: Served out of order by mistake. Wow. This is more like it. Really wonderful. Huge, black pepper, black fruit, mint and a wonderful lavender note. Big depth, a powerful wine. Firm but integrated all the way through. Great wine.

Third Flight:

****++Sine Qua Non. Against The Wall, 1996: Believe the hype, baby! Jeepers. Tar, violets, insane, huge concentration, blackberry preserves, pepper – amazing. Coating, intense, perfectly integrated. My number 2 wine of the day.

****++Clarendon Hills, Astralis, 1998: From strength to strength. While the SQN was a bit more out there, the Astralis was a bit more reserved…but had all of the same elements, perhaps adding a minerality and depth the SQN did not quite achieve. It will reward further patience, but is tantalizing right now. Hard to rank this below the SQN, perhaps only because of the later wine’s approachability right now. In my opinion, both are 96+ point wines.

***++Ch La Nerthe, CNdP, Cuvee Cadettes, 1994: A bit out of order and in strong company. Still, a lovely wine. CNdP notes of herbs, iodine, red fruit and smoke. Nice minerals, good solid concentration and a firm palate, though of course not the same kind of grip as the other wines of the flight. Super.

***++Chapoutier, La Sizeranne, 1994: Like the La Nerthe, a bit overwhelmed, though it acquitted itself surprisingly well. Delicious, showing great fruit purity, velvety black fruit, depth and minerals. Floral. I loved this wine and thought it very worthy.

Fourth Flight:

All of these wines were huge and really wonderful.

*****Guigal, Cote Rotie, La Landonne, 2001: Wow. Speechless. Great wine. Hard to detract anything at all from it. Animal elements, violets, black pepper. Great depth, great purity, great concentration. Out there for around $200 and a bargain at that price. My wine of the day.

***++Behrens and Hitchcock, Alder Springs Syrah, Hommage to Ed, 2001: Very yummy and approachable. Made in the B&H way. Big, open, velvety, maybe a bit blousy in comparison – still great. Very varietal, with black fruit, smoke, earth, flowers. No mistaking this wine.

****+Penfolds, Grange, 2001: I expected to not get much from this wine – but instead found it of course youthful but still approachable. Big and thick, some greenness from the American oak, spice, great, deep berry fruit. Brooding. Stately –maybe even majestic. A great Australian wine that will mature into a truly great wine experience.

****Ch Beaucastel, 2001: Very worthy. No mistaking this wine either – with its tell tale French herbs, iodine, animal, truffles and great red fruit concentration. I love this wine and cellar beaucastel hoping every vintage comes together like this one. Worth seeking out.

Mystery wine:

***++CUNE, Vine Real Reserva, 1950: Dave guessed Country, region and varietal –which in and of itself is impressive. No one was within 30 years of the vintage. Surprisingly youthful, it boasted mature red fruit, a burgundian earthy complexity, candied orange zest and fruited tea notes. Racy palate, good acids, not deep but consistent and integrated. A dynamite wine.

Monday, May 14, 2007

Wine Musings Vol#18

From notes taken May, 2006:

Wine of Merit: ****Ridge Montebello, 1996: If the Whitehall is all charm, the Ridge is about stature and sophistication. A classic claret. More tightly wound, this wine is deep and well structured. Great cassis, bramble, black fruit and minerals. Some tobacco. The palate shows a deft touch, perfect depth and great integration. The finish is amazingly long. With time the wine loosens up a bit to show a cassis liqueur and flower nose. Drink or hold. Montebello continues to be a first growth among cali wines, IMHO and the 1996 is a lovely example of its pedigree and tradition.

***+Behrens & Hitchcock, Staglin Vineyard Cabernet , 1994: Big and juicy. Exhibiting much of the Staglin vineyard class and elegance, this wine still is unapologetically upfront. Lush, deep black cherry liquor and cassis waft from the glass. The palate offers the same, with lead pencil and potpourri spice. Palate is soft but very coating, deep and even throughout. Spicy, sweet finish. This wine borders on flabby but in the end pulls it off. I hate the stupid use of the word “hedonistic” when describing wine and yet…Drink or hold a bit, though it seems like it is pumping on all cylinders right now.

***Robert Ampeau Savigny Les Baune, 1990: Robert Ampeau is an eccentric. He decides when his wines are ready to drink and then releases them. I believe his current vintage for this wine is 1990 (others are releasing their 2004s)! Light ruby in color – this is a mature wine, though not in any way shape or form over the hill. Feminine, delicate nose of rose petal, bing cherry and chai tea notes, with progressively more pronounced cola. A smidge astringent on the finish, though the palate is generous. Very worthy and a delicious savigny. A testament to fine wine making.

***++ Whitehall Lane Reserve, 1996: Wow! This is amazingly expressive. Jammy, forward red and black fruit, fleshy peach, lavender and mocha notes. Thick licorice and truffles nuances. Amazingly youthful. Lavish oak, though perfectly integrated. Tannins are pronounced but sweet and furry on the finish. Not flabby but very pronounced. This wine will age well for another 10 years, taking on more complexity as the fruit unravels a bit. A great wine to have by itself or with cheese. Yum!

***Gary Farrell Allen / Rochioli Chardonnay, 1999: Surprisingly Fresh. Bright lemon zest, crème brulee, blood orange. Some candied fruit on the nose. Palate shows lavish oak, though it integrates nicely. Finish is firm with more spicy oak notes. Delicious.

**++Jory Lions Oak vineyard, Sangre de Donahue, Syrah 1998: Nice, Sideways Syrah. A bit jammy and fat given its age, the wine boasts blueberry / boysenberry and oak notes, with some garrigue and chocolate. Palate is a bit flabby but pleasant. A good drinker.

***White Cottage Ranch zinfandel, 1995: I have already waxed lyrical about White Cottage. This wine is holding up perfectly and shows freshness, depth and mountain fruit a plenty. Exactly what one should hope for in Napa zins with some bottle age. Smokin!