Wine Musings Vol#91

Wine of Merit: ***++Lopez de Heredia Vina Bosconia, Gran Reserva, Rioja, 1981: I love this wine. Wonderful nuance and verve. Mature color, great notes of rose hip, potpourri, rhubarb and minerals. Palate glides but never thins. Cherry, white strawberry and more minerals in the mid palate. Medium, long finish. Great!

***+Ch. Ducru Beaucaillou, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1999: A lovely, terroir-driven, stately wine. Elements of juniper, spicy red and black berry fruit, licorice root, smoke. Wonderfully elegant on the palate. Completely integrated and suave with no fading. Lingering, fine finish. I think 1999 is generally an under appreciated vintage for Bordeaux.

***+Von Strasser, Estate, Diamond Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Similar to Diamond Creek, I find Rudy Von Strasser's wines to be blessed with a great sense of place. Nuances of freshly turned earth, rose hip and rose petal, toffee, raw tobacco leaf...gorgeous. Still coating, rich and long, this wine is really hitting its stride. Terrific.

***(+)Phillips Hill, Toulouse vineyard, Anderson Valley, pinot noir, 2007: A new wine for me. A cool climate signature, with deep red and black fruit, pipe tobacco, a touch of bey leaf and earthiness. Lovely integration and volume on the palate, with air. Firm tannic backbone suggests cellaring, as does the long, firm finish. A well crafted wine that will benefit from time.

Wine Musings Vol#90

Wine of Merit: ***++Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape, 1995: Elegant. This wine has aged into a lovely, balanced, almost Burgundian chateauneuf. Warm, rich cherry compote, kirsch, red peppercorn, toasted caramel. Touch of earth and lavender. The palate glides, with more pepper and red fruit. Finish is long and spicy. With time the acids become more pronounced as the fruit fades. Drink now.

***+ Castello di Camigliano, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: I have posted on this before. A wonderful, full, rich brunello. Deep, chocolate covered black cherry, caramel, cigar tobacco and smoke. Generous, layered, coating palate. Velvety. Furry, long, lithe finish. Great.

***Viader, Estate, Diamond Mountain, cabernet sauv/franc, 1994: Another lovely, aged, nuanced wine. Elements of plum and black currant, roasted meats, sage, espresso and violet. Good concentration and integration, front to back. Finish is resolving but still fine.

***Laurel Glen, Terra Rosa, Sonoma mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1990: This wine was made before Patrick moved the Terra Rosa label to Argentina. Lovely, mature sonoma cab. Turned earth, roasted plum and chocolate, anise, cigar box. The palate is thinning a bit but still generous through to a resolving, fine cab finish. Great balance. A nice find while digging through the cellar.

***Windgap, Russian River Valley, pinot gris, 2007: Springtime in a glass. From the lovely vermilion color to the whiff of fresh blossoms, this wine conjures up picnics on the great lawn with not a cloud in the sky. Persimmon, beach nut, orange blossom. Touch of spearmint. A hint of line dried fresh laundry. The palate is rich with minerals and slightly citrusy. The finish is clean and fresh if a bit abrupt. Great food wine.

***Marchese Frescobaldi, Nipozzano Riserva, Chianti Rufina, 2005: Delicious. Fresh, unpretentious chianti, happy to be quaffed from a tumbler in the company of a nice pizza. Bright cherry fruit, blood orange, grilled fig, zesty pepper, chocolate. Medium, friendly spicy finish. Mmmm....tasty.

Wine Musings Vol#89

***+Wine of Merit: Shane Wines, Jemrose vineyard, Bennett Valley, syrah, 2007: Notably opaque and inky. Complex aromas of iron, wet stone, grilled meats and spiced red fruit. With time cafe au lait and a floral, violet note. Rich and layered, picking up more chocolate and spice on the palate. Lovely integration and balance. Lingering, mineral finish. A new producer for me and one to watch with enthusiasm.

***+Domaine de l' Aigueliere, Cote Doree, Montpeyroux, Coteaux du Languedoc, syrah, 1995: I have enjoyed the evolution of this wine since its issuance. Initially very pronounced and almost challenging to drink, the Cote Doree has mellowed in its old age, now offering a lovely melange of lavender, fresh oregano, red fruit, licorice root, cured meats and smoke. Just delicious. The palate is playfully racy and sweet, the finish fine, balanced and of medium length. Patience has its virtues after all.

***Arcadian, Fiddlestix vineyard, Santa Rita Hills, pinot noir, 2004: Garnet hued, with nuanced aromas of licorice, cinnamon, tisane and sour cherry. The palate is firm, with pronounced minerals, black pepper, more racy red fruit and a long, mineral, tannic finish. Complex and perhaps still holding much in reserve. Worth it.

**++Antonio Vallana e Figlio, Boca, Piemonte, nebbiolo, 1996: A wonderfully interesting, aged nebbiolo. Prominent notes of oxidized iron, turned earth, nicoise olive, plum, dried cherry and cranberry. Nuances of baker's chocolate and tar. Acids are still bright and the palate is lively. Great integration and a fine, resolving finish. Refreshing after so many "international" wines.

**++Shane Wines, The Unknown, Sonoma County, syrah, 2007: A much cooler profile than the Jemrose. More blue and black fruits, coated in chocolate, mint and violets. More pronounced on the palate, picking up malabar pepper and rich, dark roasted coffee. Delicious.

Wine Musings Vol#88

Wine of Merit: ***+Les Bahans du Chateau Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux, 1996: The second wine of the famed 1st growth estate. Wonderful. Classic Graves and very reminiscent of the 1st growth. Lovely autumnal and sous bois elements, minerals, dark red fruit, broad leaf tobacco and cigar box. Good structure, balance and integration but clearly ready to drink, though no drop off. A can't miss wine made for Claret lovers. I believe that 1996 Bordeaux is finally coming around. A great time to check in on them if you are cellaring that vintage.

***+Domaine Serene, Evenstad Reserve, Willamette Valley, pinot noir, 2004: Powerful, concentrated and structured pinot noir. Lovely notes of blackberry fruit, pine, nice florals, pipe tobacco and milk chocolate. With time in the glass the wine exhibits more richness on the palate and excellent length. A wine for now or maybe even better in a few years. Promising.

**+Clos Pegase, Pegase Circle Reserve Port, petite syrah, 1995: A curiosity more than anything. Very sweet, black, juicy petite fruit. A touch of spearmint and blueberry. A little grainy. Gliding palate front to back with a black fruit finish. Not a wine I would recommend nor would I avoid it entirely. Nice with a chocolate desert.

Wine Musings Vol#87

Wine of Merit: ****Kistler, Vine Hill, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2006: Just a lovely iteration of chardonnay. Evocative, vibrant notes of lemon oil, beeswax and clover honey waft up from the glass. The palate is full and oily with good structure, a hint of mineral and spice and a long, finish. A note of pepper and nutmeg at the end. Really great.

***+Detert Family Vineyards, Oakville, Napa Valley, cabernet franc, 2004: This wine packs a wallop. Very primary still. Thick, intense, concentrated palate with a black licorice, baker's chocolate, minerals and braised fennel. With time hints of lavender and violets. Firm finish with black pepper and maybe a chocolate covered licorice thing. Delicious, but I think I will hide this in the cellar for awhile. Quite a while!

Wine Musings Vol#86

Had the pleasure to spend some time with Roy Piper and Aaron Pott at Seven Stones last weekend. At the time we tasted the 05 and 06 from bottle, the 07 from barrel. The notes are in the order we tried them. All of these wines are of merit:

***+Seven Stones, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2006: Decanted for an hour or so. A lovely wine by all measures. Perfumed, ripe nose of plum and black cherry, licorice root, hint of sage. Some earth and espresso grinds. The palate is coating and velvety, nice mineral focus, not blousy at all, fine tannic ledge front to back.

***++Seven Stones, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: Popped and poured. Very similar notes to the 2006. Even better structure and depth. Slightly more focused, slightly better delineation. Pretty consistent. 93 pts.

****+Seven Stones, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2007: From barrel. Wow. Home run. Not that the others are not worthy...but this wine is clearly very special. Much darker, concentrated blue/black berry fruit, deep, chiseled lead pencil, hint of chocolate mint. Rockin. Even more focus, depth, texture and minerals on the palate. Deft integration and balance. Extended minerals and a fine, super long finish. Slightly floral. Somehow, even at $150+, this wine seems like a steal when compared with others of its ilk (Araujo, Harlan, Abreu come to mind). Superlative. Run, don't walk!

Wine Musings Vol#85

Wine of Merit: ***++Laurel Glen, Counterpoint, Sonoma Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1991: A wonderful surprise. I have always admired this sonoma mountain producer but I was floored by the complexity, nuance and grip of this second label edition. I couldn't help but think of Figeac with its mature red/plum fruit, Indian tagine spices, loam and sois bois - but also Graves, given the pronounced graphite, smoke, autumn leaf and mineral elements as the wine expanded over time. Wonderful delineation and depth on the palate with more plum and mineral. Tannins are fine and the finish still long. Great wine punching well above its weight.

***+Schweiger Vineyards, Estate, Diamond Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1994: Lovely. Great, integrated mountain fruit elements. Blackberry, baker's chocolate, nicoise olives, brair. Palate is generous and coating but never fat, with a pronounced mineral note. Finish is lively but nicely built in to the overall palate impression. Just perfect to drink right now, though it will likely hold on for awhile.

***Beaulieu Vineyards, Georges de Latour, Private Reserve, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1992: An excellent example. Not nearly as ripe as previous bottles, this wine showed elegance, stature and strength. Deep red and black fruit, cassis, licorice, chalk and menthol. Firm, integrated palate with good length and a velvety depth.

*** Richard Partridge, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1998: I believe this was the first vintage for this winery. An auspicious start. Open knit, full aromas of chocolate covered black cherry, cassis, cedar, clove. Round mouth feel with integrated vanilla/hazelnut, plum and spice. Good balance and length. Lovely to drink now.

***Del Dotto, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Nice wine. Tangy, plump red fruit driven style. Slightly over ripe. Cafe au lait, grilled meats, a touch of gaurrigue. Oak is integrated, palate silky, finish medium length. An overall good bottle of mature Napa cabernet that should be consumed over the short term.

**++Robert Sinskey, SLD Estate, Stags Leap District, cabernet sauvignon, 2002: Very nice, if a tad underwhelming. Typical, spicy red SLV fruit. Complementary notes of grilled fennel and incense. Good fullness and weight, more fruit and with some minerals on the palate. Perhaps a bit vague. Yummy, if under performing.

Wine Musings Vol#84

Wine of Merit: ****++Chateau D’Yquem, Sauternes, Bordeaux, 1996: Ethereal. I have had this wine before and it has never performed so well. A great example of a superlative d’yquem. Honey comb, tobacco, minerals, a floral mélange of vetiver, verbena, lavender and Lilly of the Valley scent, candied citrus zest, a touch of white pepper lithe and yet serious. Wonderful depth on the palate with more orange zest and minerals. Endless finish. Just outstanding.

****+Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, Hermitage, 1996: A masterpiece. Powerful red fruit, cinnamon, white pepper, tar and briar. Amazing depth, cut and delineation. Firm palate but perfectly balanced and integrated front to back. Ridiculously long finish of pepper, soy and mineral. Great the next day and the day after that as well.

****Bodegas Vega Sicilia, Unico, Ribera del Duero, 1996: A giant. Still very primal. Surprisingly new world in its signature. Essence of blueberry, tagine spices, briar, floral acacia, vanilla bean, café au lait. Beautiful, coating, juicy palate. Good focus and length. Very fresh. Charmingly puerile, still growing into its frame.

***++Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume, Loire, 1996: Hedonism exemplified. Baked apricots covered in honey, clove, cinnamon, candied ginger, lemon custard. Deep, deep unctuous aromas. A real come hither wine. I loved it. Thick, viscous palate, medium long ripe crème anglais finish. A romp. Wonderful.

***Domaine Huet, Clos du Bourg, Moelleux, Vouvray, 1996: Somewhere in between. Not the elegance of the D’Yquem or the sensuality of the Baumard. Fresh, ripe cantaloupe aromas, a touch of watermelon, quince. Delicious and light on the palate. Lovely and refreshing.

*+Querciabella, Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany, 1996: Seriously maderized. Fun to taste for its volatile, creamy blackberry and cherry sherry-like qualities. But not worth drinking more than a glass. Smoke ‘em if you got ‘em.

Wine Musings Vol#83

Wine of Merit: ****+Ridge, Montebello vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains, cabernet sauvignon, 1996: A definitive Montebello. I have had this wine a number of times but never better than right now. Wonderfully layered, nuanced, complex…a meal in a glass. Elements of broad leaf tobacco, grilled meats, blood, iron, camphor, mature plum and red fruits, truffle. Wild, montrose-like qualities. Full, concentrated palate adds more plum and Indian spices. Full on finish…but everything is packaged perfectly. As good a Montebello as the 1991 and a wonderful treat to drink or hold.

****+Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste, Estate, Paulliac, 1996: Wow. Just a dynamite wine. Powerful, vibrant. Yes, traditional Paulliac elements of black and blue fruits, graphite, menthol, minerals. Cassis. Cedar. Pipe Tobacco. But this one has a perfect suppleness to it, a finely toned musculature that just ripples. Huge palate adds licorice root, more minerals and church incense. Perfect integration with a bottomless finish. After a few sips I no longer felt like I was tasting this wine…it was more like watching a great athlete on the field of play. Big Ups.

****Dunn, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1996: Fabulous purity and focus. Deep, blue black berry fruit, cassis, dusty, crushed chalk. Just starting to stretch its legs now. Wonderful grip, depth and concentration. Super long but surprisingly supple finish, really great balance. The best Howell mountain I have had since the amazing 1982.

***+Araujo, Eisele vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1996: Classically structured, a statesman of a wine. Perhaps overshadowed today by the Montebello, it still has all of those Eisele qualities that make this wine a poster child for what napa cabernet wishes it always could be. Classic Rutherford dust, cassis and black fruit, menthol, cedar. Good tannic profile from front to back, now starting to resolve. Good grip, depth and balance. Special.

***+Chateau Montelena, Estate, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1996: Again, a classic. Showing telltale Montelena notes of slightly overripe plum, chocolate and soy. Still very youthful and promising. In good to great vintages this is accompanied by minerals, white pepper and a fullness that allows these elements to intermarry and create a wonderful mélange. Good delineation and structure but mostly a juicy, coating mouthful of wine. Delicious.

***+Chateau Montrose, Estate, St. Estephe, 1996: I was surprised by how civil and well behaved this wine is right now. Still, the blood lines are apparent. Great, mature red fruit, truffle, violets, molasses and exotic far eastern spices. A touch of iodine, butter sautéed Brussels sprouts and Malabar pepper. Not nearly as full throttle as the 90 or 89 I think this wine is a bit more contemplative but not coy. The palate is classically structured and the tannins on the long finish are fine, layered and integrated. A wonderful example of a young Bordeaux just beginning to strut its stuff.

***Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron, Estate, Paulliac, 1996: Very good and again a classic iteration of Paulliac. Blue black berry fruit, lead pencil. Wet slate. Deep, coating palate showcases plums and minerals, with some espresso bean notes. Fine, balanced, slightly drying finish. Very worthy.

***Chateau Ducru Beacaillou, Estate, St. Julien, 1996: A lovely wine. Perhaps a bit more feminine than other vintages of Ducru. Red and black berry fruit, acacia, violets, cedar, cinnamon stick. Spicy, red fruit palate that is perfectly integrated and lovingly balanced. Maybe a bit lost next to the Grand Puy Lacoste. A little tight perhaps? Still, picture perfect St. Julien.

Wine Musings Vol#82

Wine of Merit: ****+Pol Roger, Sir Winston Churchill, Champagne, 1996: Stunning. Crisp acidity, chiseled features, a champagne meant to lay down. Right now it shows bright green apple and citrus notes, great minerals, a hint of almond paste...just wonderful. The palate is refreshing and lithe. The finish offers spice, good length and more minerals. Youthfully exuberant.

****Joseph Swan Vineyards, Estate, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, pinot noir, 1996: Just lovely and surprisingly Burgundian. I always think of Swan wines as rustic and sometimes a bit difficult, but this wine has aged into a classic. Nuanced elements of cherries, black and bing, freshly turned top soil, tisane, clove. Licorice root. Not heavy or brooding at all...in fact very bright and finely balanced. The palate is impeccable, great concentration and grip, adding minerals and depth, lovely balance. Medium long, spicy finish. Kudos to Rod Berglund, who stays the course over at Swan. Really top notch.

***++R&V Dauvissat, Les Preuses, Grand Cru, Chablis, chardonnay, 1996: A great example of grand cru chablis from a great vintage. Intense, laser-focused blood orange and lemon zest. Anjou pear. Wet slate. A touch of fennel and white flowers. Bracing acids, flint and bees wax on the gliding palate. Not oxidized at all. Great the next day in fact. Wonderful.

***+Dominique Laurent, Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, pinot noir, 1996: Lovely and nicely balanced front to back. Excellent fruit, integration and depth. Darker cherry elements, supporting spice and rose hip, underbrush, minerals, cinnamon. The palate shows good grip and length, with fine but pronounced tannins that offer confidence for longer cellaring. Surprisingly old school in style from the more new world oriented Laurent. Delicious.

***+Sylvian Cathaird, Les Malconsorts, 1er Cru, Vosne Romanee, pinot noir, 1996: Delicious. I wish I had spent more time with this wine. Perhaps slightly awkward on opening, with time the wine reveals nuance and complexity; bing cherry, ginger, underbrush, licorice root and smoke all seem to intertwine and emerge as a pot pourri-like melange. The palate is firm and perhaps a bit angular, though again with time it softens, sweetens and fills, adding great tagine spices. A wine for grown-ups. I liked it very much.

***Bernard Defaix, Cote de Lechet, 1er Cru, Chablis, chardonnay, 1996: Similar to the Dauvissat, just a bit less so. Perhaps a bit more rustic. Delicious, citrus fruit and zest, now with an element of citrus pith. Liquid minerals, crushed oyster shell. Not quite as sharply focused on the palate as the Grand Cru. Still very lively and very much in form. An excellent effort.

***Jean Marc Boillot, Les Perrieres, 1er Cru, Puligny Montrachet, chardonnay, 1996: Happily this wine also was in good form. Initially demure, this wine opened to warm crushed gravel, white fruits and a touch of lavender. Perhaps a bit more feminine than its chablis counterparts, with a touch less length. Still, delicious.

***Williams Selyem, Hirsch vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 1996: After the Caithard and the Swan, this is like having a black cherry milkshake. A bowl full of cherries, cola, cream, vanilla, a hint of spearmint and caramelized brown sugar...what this wine lacks in sophistication it makes up for in simple enjoyment. Very fresh and full. I was surprised that it did not have the weight, the smoke or the dark fruit elements I associate with Sonoma Coast pinot. Not very nuanced, deep or for that matter interesting, it is undoubtedly delicious. Fun and tasty.

Wine Musings Vol#81

Wine of Merit: ***+Altesino, Brunello di Montalcino, 2001: Quintessential BdM. Delicious, stately and elegant yet warm and inviting. Dark, black cherry notes, caramelized brown sugar, fresh earth. Full but gliding palate. Furry, resolving finish. Wonderful integration and nuanced layers. Super wine.

***+Cantina del Pino, Ovello, Barbaresco, 2004: Mammoth. Chewy expansive notes of black cherry liqueur, bakers chocolate, clove, brier. A nice high tone of rose petal. The palate is coating front to back, significant presence of new oak ads a hazelnut quality, the length on the finish measured in minutes. Clearly made for the long haul.

***+Vietti, Masseria, Barbaresco, 2001: A favorite. Perhaps more developed than I would have assumed, this wine is nonetheless delicious and ready for prime time. Mature, warm mineral notes of black licorice, truffle, tar and ripe plum. The palate is ripe and coating but not dense and chewy. Lovely integration, with a fine finish.

***Calera, Jensen Vineyard, Central Coast, pinot noir, 1985: An oldy but a goody. Surprisingly fresh. Lovely, mature varietal notes waft up with little coaxing. The wine is full and willing, far from fragile. Nice palate feel, red fruit, tisane, rose hip, Asian spice. Fine, medium finish that suggests no hurry. Delightful.

***Elena Fucci, Titolo, Basilicata, Aglianico del Vulture, 2005: A rustic southern Italian charmer. Lovely, big boned aglianico notes of bright, effusive raspberry and cherry, crushed slate, Malabar pepper, licorice root. Eucalyptus. Expansive palate, enormous finish. The Sofia Loren of wines. Give this time and food.

**++Arns, Estate, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1993: A nice example of the varietal, the vintage and the style of the time. Pensive, red fruit driven style, black pepper, green tea lots of minerals. Thinning slightly. palate is a touch racy but overall elegant. Finish is still firm.

Wine Musings Vol#80

Tasted at the most recent Realm Cellars tasting event in NYC. I did not have enough time to spend with each wine so my notes may seem a bit superficial:

Wine of Merit: ***+Realm Cellars, Dr. Crane Vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2006: Lovely. Typical, perfumed Dr. Crane nose of red fruit, licorice root, spice box and cassis. Some elderflower perhaps. The palate is smooth and well balanced. The new wood and primary and secondary elements well integrated even at this young age. A somewhat noticeable petite verdot element of pine needle and black licorice at the back of the palate, which I am guessing will integrate more as the wine ages. Lovely, fine, furry finish. A very nice, complete rendering of a Napa Valley cabernet.

***+ Realm Cellars, The Tempest, Napa Valley, 2006: Delicious, in fact downright yummy. A blend of mostly merlot, with a significant amount of cabernet sauvignon, a dollop of cab franc and petite verdot. I liked this wine, and would like it even better at a lower price point. Violets, licorice root, a touch of grilled mushroom, plum and black fruit. A touch of herbs. Very good depth and concentration. Voluminous. Good grip and length. Again, if this wine were priced inthe 30s it would be a bang the table buy. Alas, it is in the 60s...

***+ Realm Cellars, ToKalon beckstoffer Vineyard, Napa valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2006: Also very nice. I am a huge fan of this vineyard and was bowled over by the 2005 Realm offering. I think the 2006, at first blush, may not quite achieve that mark. It is a wine that takes you immediately to the ToKalon vineyard...all Rutherford dust, laser black fruit concentration, a ton of cassis...is that mint? Very nice. The palate loses me a bit...I did not find the grip and concentration of past efforts. A bit one dimensional. Perhaps even a bit juicy. The finish, like the Dr. Crane, seems to suggest some PV. Good, firm finish. A very nice wine all things considered.

**++ Realm Cellars, The Bard, Napa Valley, 2006: Nice. This is similar to the Tempest in its assemblage, with cabernet dominating instead of merlot, though somehow I found this more grapey and round, characteristics I would associate with napa merlot. A delicious if fairly straightforward wine. Lots of chocolate, some briar, big round gushy plum. My least favorite of the night but still a wine that I am sure will get better with age and will be enjoyable for 3 to 5 years from now. Not bad at all!

Wine Musings Vol#79

Wine of Merit: **** Domaine Philippe Delesvaux, Anthologie, Coteaux du Layon, chenin blanc, 1997: Wow. Initially I feared this wine had suffered poor storage and had been oxidized; the cork was brittle and the color a very dark amber. Lucky for us this was not the case and the wine was excellent, if of disconcerting color. Initially the nose was pure black mission fig jam; a touch earthy, ripe, sweet (the wine has 535 gr. of residual sugar!) and deep. With time, the wine added more traditional botrytis nuances...lichee, ripe persimmon, thick clover honey, nectarine, vanilla orchid. The palate was thick and excellent, adding orange marmalade, caramel, biscotti and baking spices,a touch of brandy. Perhaps influenced by the color, a few said it reminded them of a vin santo. The finish was excellent; spicy and seemingly endless. I am sure storage has played some role here but the experience was outstanding.

***++Chateau de Baucastel, Chateau Neuf du Pape, 1994: A lovely wine. Initially offering complex, rustic, barnyard and grilled meat notes, this wine unfurled with time to offer very focused blackberry, herb, licorice root and iron aromas. Further development in the glass offered a floral hint of violet and lavender. The palate was lively, with more black fruit, pepper, minerals and brier. The palate is fine and firm. An excellent bottle.

***++Beringer Private reserve, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1991: The essence of Napa. Just stuffed with wonderful, deep, red and black stone fruit, cassis, cedar and a hint of chalky, wet slate. The palate is deep, concentrated and chewy, surprisingly youthful yet still deftly integrated. The tannins are fine and the finish long. A great ambassador for the area - a wine I would consider a first growth, or at the very least a super second, of the Napa Valley.

***++Chateau Montelena, estate, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1995 (from magnum): Speaking of ambassadors! Here is another wonderful example of what the left coast has to offer. Signature notes of mature plum, chocolate, a hint of soy, black tea and licorice. Vibrant. The palate is downright juicy, vivacious and fun to be around. Great balance. More feminine than the Beringer but not fragile or dainty, this wine is stacked. Just plain old yummy. The mag disappeared in a heartbeat. Drinking great right now.

***++Kongsgaard, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2004: I believe the 2004 vintage of Kongsgaard chards suffers in comparison with the 2003 and 2005. Still very much a worthy wine, it does not show quite the depth and concentration of the other two vintages. That said, this wine is stunning. If a bit demure, it has a stunning mineral focus, accompanied by bright marzipan, Meyer lemon and honeyed kaffir lime notes. the palate is bright and intense, more taught than other vintages, with resounding minerals and a long, Asian spice imbued finish. Great stuff!

***Clos Pegase, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Lovely and surprisingly fresh. Perhaps the first of the "let's take a large fortune and turn it into a small fortune" wineries in the Napa Valley...see Revana, Vineyard 29, Darioush, etc. This wine is nonetheless very legit. Dominated by red fruit, morrels, eucalyptus, tisane and spice, the wine is elegant and expertly crafted. The palate glides, offering good concentration, weight and balance. The finish is fine and medium to long, with spicy oak notes at the tail. Delicious and worth the wait.

***Matanzas Creek, Sonoma, merlot, 1991: I have had some success with older Matanzas Creek merlots, so I had some hopes for the longevity of this wine. It is delicious, if perhaps on the downward slope. Mature plum, blackberry and lavender mix with tertiary bell pepper, garrigue and iodine notes. Hints of mineral, vanilla and violet. The palate is full, receding here and there, with more overripe plum, violet and chocolate. The finish is of medium length and fine. Probably more vibrant and primal in its youth, it is still fun and perhaps more complex now...and very much worth drinking tonight.

A quick P.S.: The ****Aubert, Lauren Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay 2004 continues to be a breath taking, wonderful, amazing chardonnay. My notes from January of last year (Musings Vol#46) remain almost identical this week.

Wine Musings Vol#78

Wine of Merit: ****Leoville Poyferre, estate, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1996: Signing in full voice. Just great, room-filling aromatics. Garrigue, blackberry, nicoise olives, licorice, cassis. Clear-eyed, focused and very much on point. The palate glides. More berries, chocolate, integrated, a touch of clove. Finish is fine and long. A wine to enjoy now or cellar for another 10 years. A pleasure - and probably still a value from that vintage as it was not a huge scoring wine upon release (88 WS, 93 RP).

***+Newton Cellars, Napa Valley, Unfiltered cabernet sauvignon, 1991: Just right. Evolved. Mature red plum fruit, funghi trifolati, grilled fennel, tar. The palate is velvet, more plum and chocolate, coating. Finish is succulent and of middle length. A wine that is giving it all it has right now.

*** Chateau La Nerthe, Chateauneuf du Pape, Blanc, 2004: Love it! Great, zesty white from the sunny part of France. I am crazy for white chateauneuf, especially in ripe vintages. This wine just has wonderful joie de vivre, great concentration and boyancy! Floral, expansive, happy notes of grilled pineapple, clover honey, cardamom, fennel, a touch of lilac or lavender. The palate is full yet firmly structured and the finish long and spicy. Van Gogh is a glass. Bottled sunshine.

***Jocelyn Lonen, Bohn Vineyard, Russian River Valley, sonoma, Reserve chardonnay, 2006: Very nice indeed. I think this represents a good benchamrk for RRV chardonnay; lovely, bright citrus zest, lime blossom, nuances of sweet tropical fruit. A note of bees wax and mild tobacco. The palate is rich, viscous and oily, adding some mineral and marzipan sugar. The finish is spicy and long, a touch of nutmeg. No one would confuse this with a white burg and no one should. A smile.

***Bedell Cellars, Cupola, North Fork Long Island, 1998: I do not profess a great deal of knowledge about Long Island wines. This is a meritage of sorts, representing a typical Bordeaux blend with cabernert, merlot, cab franc, petite verdot and malbec. I have to say...it is delicious! Age has added nice complexity to the nose, with ripe black berry fruit components, a touch of bell pepper and truffle, violets and licorice root. The low alcohol and still bright acids makes this wine a joy to have with food. Perhaps the mid palate could use some stuffing. But for a 10 year old wine you take the mid town tunnel to get to, I was impressed. Well done!

**++Duhart Millon, estate, Paulliac, Bordeaux, 1996: Buoyed by the Poyferre, I struck out for gold again. No such luck. A very decent, perfumed wine, this iteration seems a bit tired. Lovely red and black fruits on the nose, cedar and cassis. A hint of minerals. The palate thins a bit in the middle and the finish is on the short side. Probably a wine to drink up, wistfully thinking about what could have been.

Wine Musings Vol#77

Wine of Merit: ****+Gaja, Sperss, Barolo, nebbiolo, 1995: A masterpiece. A prime example for those that truly appreciated that pre 1996 Gaja quest for purity. In 1996 Gaja decided to forgo the Barolo appellation so that they could "improve"the wine by adding barbera and cabernet. I love those assembled wines but have a special place in my heart for the Barolo. The 1995 is a wonderful example. Deep, ponderous,black cherry liqueur enveloped in dark, bittersweet chocolate as a base note. Higher toned, almost tangy Worcestershire notes (the UK iteration made with malt vinegar, tamarind and molasses) accompany. Fantastic! The palate is still very youthful and a bit angular but delivers plenty of black fruit, minerals, liquorice and the promise of more to come. Monster finish that is somehow still deftly integrated with the rest of the wine. Tour de Force!

***++Shibumi Knoll, Buena Tierra Vineyard, RRV, Sonoma, chardonnay, 2005: Delicious. Evidently this wine got a big score (97pts) by Jim Laube recently and thus has had some talk value. I bought it awhile ago, prior to the write up, along with the wonderful cabernet (Musings vol#49). I don't know that I would offer those kinds of accolades but this sonoma chardonnay is certainly worthy. Not for the meek, this wine is all about thick, oily, linseed and buttered popcorn. Exotic, Asian spices. Candied citrus zest and meringue. Yum! The palate is perhaps not quite as unctuous and layered, though it also features lovely citrus, latte foam and a sense of minerals. The finish integrates nicely. Not Aubert or Kongsgaard complexity, structure or depth, perhaps a level just below. A lovely, low production chard that is no longer a secret. Shibumi? Shattered!

**++Mas de la Deveze, 66, Cotes du Rousillion, grenache, 2004: A romp! Solid and wonderfully artisianal. Good stuffing, red fruit, iron, white pepper, grilled meats, some garrigue. A bit rustic but in a very honest, even earnest, kind of way. Good, youthful exuberance with nice balance and integration. No noticeable presence of new wood. I am almost embarrassed to admit that this is a $8.99 garagiste purchase. A dynamite daily drinker. I understand the 2005 to be even better. Do not hate...celebrate!

**++Domaine Zind Humbrecht, Gueberschwihr, riesling, 2004: Lovely. Not as big and flamboyant as I was lead to believe. Nice, golden delicious apple, anjou pear and nectarine notes. Some clover honey-like sweetness though not overt or distracting. Thick, concentrated and viscous on the palate with a touch of tobacco, slate and a nice mineral finish that dries toward the end. A very nice wine to accompany a spicy Thai dish, or sushi.

Wine Musings Vol#76

Wine of Merit: ****Parusso, Bussia, Barolo, nebbiolo, 2003: Wow. Quite the pugilist. I admit to being a huge fan of Armando Parusso and his wines. They go from wonderful examples of their varietal and region to wines that are downright otherwordly. This is a wonderful example. Black cherry fruit, tar, tobacco, briar, espresso coffee. Violets. Great chewy texture. Full and deep wine. Clearly a wine that can be cellared for a long time. Powerful yet graceful.

****Daniel Rion, 1er cru, "Les Vignes Rondes", Nuits St. Georges, 2002: Really lovely and showing perfectly right now. Mature, red fruit and garrigues notes. Black olive, violets, balanced and integrated palate. Just a gliding sensation on the palate. Fine, perfectly integrated finish. Grace exemplified. A wine I will seek out and cellar.

****Alban Vineyards, estate, Edna Valley, roussane, 2006: Wonderful; a true delight. Great concentration and balance. SQN-esque, actually. Baked apple cobbler with vanilla ice cream notes, nutmeg, hazelnut, cinnamon, lavish. A round, filling mouth feel perfectly integrated to a yummy, citrus finish. Just dynamite. Again, a wine I will seek out and cellar, though I am unsure of the cellaring window here.

***++JJ Prum, Spatlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr, riesling , 2006 ; Just great. The 2006 vintage has gotten lost between the stellar 2005 and 2007, meaning it is most likely easier to find at retail and a buy. Honeysuckle, petrol, grilled peaches, pineapple. Perfect concentration. Long, mineral finish. I could drink this for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

***(*)Vincent Dauvissat, "Le Clos" chablis, 2006: A similar comment to the Prum here in reference to vintage. I found this wine chiseled and a bit austere, as a young Chablis often is. Excellent minerality, linden and lemon pith, bracing acids and tart white Asian pear. Powerful, with telltale, briny crushed oyster shell that I find a central characteristic of many great wines from this region. Firm and most likely a wine that will benefit from years of cellaring. Statuesque.

***+Ca' Marcanda,, Magari, Toscana IGT, 2005: This is a stand by I can always trust...and I thought this was showing very well. Red berry and black stone fruit, floral, spice box, clove, pipe tobacco and chocolate. Velvety and lush. Fine tannins on the finish. Delicious. It has become pricey of late, which is too bad. A lovely example of what used to be a very sensibly priced "Super Tuscan" IGT.

***+Ridge, Lytton Springs, sonoma, zinfandel, 2005: This is really not a zinfandel as much as it is a field blend of zinfandel, grenache, mouvedre and petite syrah. I found it lovely. Harmonious, red and black berry fruit, black pepper, lavender, tagine spices and briar. Wonderful balance. A wine that can age well or be consumed young. I thought it was great.

***Cheval des Andes, Mendoza, malbec, 2005: Made by the folks that make Cheval Blanc in Bordeaux. A very powerful, deep wine. Mostly Malbec with other Bordeaux varietals in the assembly. Perhaps a bit over the top for me. A brute. Clearly in need of cellar time to sort itself out a bit. Wonderful purity. Could be excellent.

Wine Musings Vol#75

Wine of Merit: ***++Gravner, Estate, Friuli Venezia Giulia, ribolla gialla, 2000: I love this wine. Initially demure, with time and air it opens up to reveal that crazy Gravner complexity: All grilled fennel, celery seed, dried apricot, a hint of mandarin orange. Full and generous on the palate with more citrus, honeyed tobacco...yum! An unusual wine that demands your attention. Great stuff.

***++Feudi di San Gregorio, Patrimo, Irpinia Rosso, IGT,Campagnia, 2001: Delicious. Full throttle, this wine is 100% merlot yet never strays far from its southern Italian roots. Lush, flamboyant but still big boned and muscular, it offers ripe plum, licorice and roasted chestnut notes accompanied by espresso macchiato undertones that I just love. Coating on entry, it assaults the palate with staining concentration and grip. The finish is big but not overly so...nicely balanced with the rest of this bigger than life wine. A San Gennaro festival in a glass, complete with fireworks and zeppoli. Fantastico!

***+Fattoria Viticcio, Chianti Classico Riserva, Grieve in Chianti, sangiovese, 2001: Just delicious. Bright, vibrant boysenberry, plum and red currant fruit accompanied by nervy spice box and black pepper undertones. Ample mouth feel, good tannic backbone, long fine finish. Great food wine. The essence of Chanti Classico. At under $30, this wine is a steal.

***+Failla, Keefer Ranch, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, chardonnay, 2003: Drinking great right now. Surprisingly Burgundian. Sharp, mineral, lemon lime zest notes, marzipan, baking spices and linseed. Firm acidity. More minerals, ginger and a key lime custard note on the palate. Medium long, spicy finish. All in all a very nice chardonnay.

***Aston Estate, Experimental Lot, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2004: This wine actually doesn't say Aston Estate on it. I am guessing it was from vines deemed too young to produce a finished wine...thus the experimental nature. Actually, this wine is every bit as finished as the other Aston wines. It has the signature dark, brooding black cherry nose, the forest floor elements, an note of baker's chocolate and white pepper in the background. Palate is coating and full. Finish is firm. Perhaps not quite as polished or sophisticated, it is nonetheless capable.

Wine Musings Vol#74

Wine of Merit: ****Tenuta Guado al Tasso, Bolgheri Superiore, 1997: Wow. This wine is enormous and just bursting at the seams. Dense, deep, concentrated, primal; it seems to me that this is showing none of its 11+ years of age. Laser-focused black berry fruit, spearmint, tar, floral violets and crushed gravel elements make me think new world, or maybe new styled Barolo. The palate mimics these initial impressions. Deep, almost impenetrable, with more black fruit and minerals, coating and firm front to back. Even with much time in the glass this seems to be a wine that will benefit from years if not decades of aging. Wonderful.

***++Castello dei Rampolla, Sammarco, 1997: Really wonderful. Perhaps a touch more mature than the Guado al Tasso, but perfectly balanced and deftly integrated. A similar new world profile of black berry, menthol and minerals, the notes are complemented with some red fruit and an undertone of citrus. The palate is simply integration and balance exemplified. Lovely fruit profile on the coating entry, good firm tannic backbone, great mid palate feel, long fine finish. Just a dynamite wine that, like Guado al Tasso, gets lost a bit in the crowd of wines whose names end in "aia".

***++Argiano, Brunello di Montalcino, sangiovese, 1997: Wow. Quite the tour de force. The complexity and savage nature of this wine would have made me guess St. Estephe if the wine were blinded. Ox blood in hue, smoke, roasted meats, red fruit, mocha, rosemary, truffle, oil cured black olive. Chewy, dense, mouth filling wine with a slight raciness to the mid palate before a firm, mineral finish. Delicious and totally worth it. A meal in a glass.

***Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, 1997: I was introduced to Ornellaia at the Cantina Antinori in Florence with the 1988 vintage and was bowled over. Since then, it has come to be one of poster children of the "Super Tuscan" genre of wines made in the Bolgheri area. And rightfully so, as it is typically breathtaking, vintage in and vintage out. This iteration may have been one of the vintages that propelled Ornellaia past Tignanello and into the spotlight. 11 years later, this wine is showing its maturity, adding complexity and nuance to its initial exuberant expression. Stewed plum, tomato skin, smoke, bacon fat, espresso, soy and mocha create a melange that reminds me of much older cab based wines from California and Bordeaux. The palate is fine and not tired at all, showing more red fruit and chocolate. The finish is fine and resolved...a top wine that has evolved nicely and will reward patience with a fine drinking experience. Lovely.