Wine Musings Vol#93

Wine of Merit: ****Araujo, Eisele vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: I am often puzzled by why Araujo does not garner as much praise as many of the other “cult” cabernets from Napa. Maybe it’s the clear choice of elegance and refinement over raw extraction? In any case, it is clearly deserving of high praise. This 2004 is testament. Alluring, sophisticated notes of plum pudding, cured tobacco, cedar and dried fig. Excellent concentration and perfect balance from nose through to back of palate. On the palate minerals, chocolate and mint are added to the plum notes and glide front to back. Fine, resolving finish. Delicious. A great wine experience.

***++Ceritas, Porter Bass vineyard, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2007: This is the third vintage made under this label by the owners of the Porter Bass vineyard. A wonderful wine. Medium weight and at first shy, this wine opened up with a bit of aeration to reveal lemon zest and kafir lime notes, accompanied by orange blossom, grapefruit, wet slate and a mélange of exotic spices. Sturdy structure with excellent acidity and length. While taught, this wine offers a lot of pleasure right now, as well as the promise of more developed notes with time in the cellar. Great effort. Only 88 cases made.

***++Rivers Marie, Thieriot vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2007: An inaugural effort, this chardonnay was far and away the table’s favorite of the night. Right in between the Ceritas and the Aubert efforts, the RM chardonnay hits many of the former wine’s bright fruit notes with a slightly broader, richer palate that includes marzipan and a touch of hazelnut. Palate is generous but focused with a lingering mineral and citrus pith finish. A lovely wine and an amazing value at $45.

***++Aubert, Lauren vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2004: If it is possible, this wine has become even more unctuous over time. Thick, oily, lemony, cardamom laced buttered popcorn, crème brulee and almond. Full, coating mouth feel, candied citrus and minerals. Delicious for it’s over the top, hedonistic nature. Drink soon.

***++Lokoya, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 2003: Served from magnum. I would characterize this wine as very similar in profile to the O’Shaughnessy cabernet listed below, but with more depth and focus. I am not sure if this is attributable to the vintage differences, format differences or otherwise. But this Lokoya adds chalk, a stronger mineral profile and licorice root to the fruited elements. The blue/black fruit is also more focused and youthful. A powerful wine for sure, but with excellent overall symmetry. Another reason to be a Howell Mountain cabernet fan.

***+O’Shaughnessy Vineyards, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 2002: This cab splits the difference between the Merus (below mentioned) and the Araujo. Clearly mountain grown, this wine offers beautifully balanced brambly, deep, dark blue/black fruited cabernet aromas, adding tar, lead pencil and smoke. Not vague in any way, but much more extracted than the Araujo, it also adds a touch of green sweetness I associate with spearmint. Firm-ish palate, excellent oak integration, long finish. A very worthy effort made by folks who clearly take pride in the Howell Mountain terroir.

***+Merus, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: Where the Araujo focuses on balance and integration, Merus substitutes depth and concentration. Almost aussie like in its primary fruit focus. Black and blue berry fruit preserves, cocoa powder, licorice root. A deep, thick iteration of cabernet. A bit ponderous, but still fun and very much delicious in a “…and for desert I’ll take the 5 lb. banana split sundae challenge! (gasps heard around the table)” kind of way. If you believe more is more, then Merus is for you. Even the bottle is oversized for a typical 750ml. Big!

***+ Chateau Langoa Barton, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 2000: A sister wine of the famed Ch. Leoville Barton. This wine has verve. Refreshingly NOT from Napa, one is immediately confronted with exuberant black fruit laced with animal, nicoise olive and bay leaf notes. The palate continues the assault, including a saline element, baker’s chocolate and racy red and black currants. Full, powerful, long tannic finish. Great with food. A yummy wine from a dynamite vintage. Drink or hold.

Wine Musings Vol#54

Wine of Merit: ***Covenant, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: While this is not the best wine I have had over the past month, it is very much a wine of merit. Why? Because it aspires to be not only a great kosher for Passover wine, but a great wine period. Sourced from larkmead fruit, this wine cuts no corners. Juicy, ripe black currant fruit-driven style, this wine also exhibits nice cassis, grilled meats and lavender notes. It is lavishly oaked - perhaps a bit too for my palate, bringing with it almond / vanilla notes and baker's spices. The palate is full and coating but also firm with very good length. This young wine should have ample cellar life ahead of it. Of course the $90 a pop asking price pre-supposes at the very least this level of quality - good to see that it delivers. Also wins the all label award!

***++Chateau Ducru Beaucalliou, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1998: I have posted previously on this wine. Notes remain consistent. Dynamite, St. Julien nose of iodine, camphor, herbs, red and black fruit, tobacco. Velvety palate but with plenty of depth and length. A wine to enjoy now decanted or let rest for awhile still. Top Notch.

***+Rivers Marie, Occidental Ridge vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2006: Lovely. Very Sonoma coast. Deep, deep dark black cherry fruit, forest floor, rosemary, mulling spices. A singularly focused element of blood orange that becomes more pronounced as the wine opens. Beautiful balance – a big wine with plenty of backbone. Serious.

***+Chateau D’Yquem, Lur Saluces, Bordeaux, sauternes, 1997: From split. You know, I love sauternes. Less for the wonderful aromatics, like the candied orange rind, white flowers, nutmeg and lichee that this wine shows, than for the oily, viscous, coating, unctuous mouth feel. It just slithers, coats, envelops you…to quote Old School, “Once it hits your lips it’s so good!” This 1997 does not really show the pumped up aromatics of truly great Yquem…but the palate…ohhhhh my! Very nice indeed, with wonderful depth and great length. I don’t think it will ever achieve the other worldliness of the 1976, nor does it have the stuffing of the 2001…but it will do! Drink or Hold.

***Jocelyn Lonen, Sangiacomo vineyard, Sonoma County, chardonnay, 2006: Super. I love Sangiacomo fruit – both chard and merlot. Bright, spicy, lemony, verbena. A bit racy on the palate…good minerals, nice oak integration. Reminds me a lot of the Shafer Red Shoulders Ranch bottling. Long, spicy finish. All in all very nice.

A few abbreviated updates: The ****Eric Texier Cote Rotie VV, 2001 is still simply mind blowing. An amazing, seemingly unending assembly of flavors, all perfectly integrated and balanced. This wine can be had for under $50 a bottle - which to me would seem to be almost criminal and certainly a screaming buy. The ****Aubert, Ritchie vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2004 is quickly becoming my favorite chardonnay in the world. So consistent, so perfumed, so deep…just a wonderful example of great chardonnay. ***Failla, Keefer vineyard, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2005 is also delicious, in a much more understated, malic, slightly more brisk kind of way. More of the Mersault style than the Corton like Aubert. Lovely. The ****Pol Roger, Sir Winston Churchill cuvee, Eperney, champagne, 1990 is a classic. Outstanding example of bottle aged, vintage champagne. Still vibrant and frisky, it shows great citrus and lavender, with yeasty baked apple notes. lemon curd and cardamom. Endless depth, wonderful palate feel, long finish. Superlative – and very much ready to drink now.

Wine Musings: Vol#53 The Thomas Brown Affair

The following wines were all tasted over the course of an evening while dining at the Tribeca Grill. As Monday nights offer a very reasonable, no corkage BYO policy, the restaurant offers the perfect venue for an evening with wine and friends in New York City at a relative bargain. And the service, regardless of BYO, is impeccable. Many thanks to a staff that decanted all 10 wines, served and removed stemware with attention and timeliness and was always extremely polite. I am a frequent diner – and yet wish I dined there more often.

It should be noted that most, nearly all, of the wines were provided by Thomas Rivers Brown, the noted Napa / Sonoma (by way of South Carolina) wine maker. In fact, Thomas is the wine maker for all of these noted wines, thus creating a theme for the evening. Many of the wines have yet even to be released to the public or have published tasting notes available of which I am aware – some even enjoying an inaugural release in the 2005 vintage - making it a real pleasure and special occasion to try them. To the wines (in order of tasting, not by merit):

**++Nicholson Ranch, Cuvee Natalie Reserve, Sonoma Valley, chardonnay, 2005: I am afraid the start was less than auspicious. Clearly made in a very popular style, the cuvee Natalie is a flamboyant, unctuous white wine, fat with lemony, tropical fruit, vanilla and thickly oaked. It unfortunately, to my palate, lacks the depth, complexity and concentration to really pull off this kind of signature (I think Pahlmeyer succeeds here very nicely). It was best described by one taster as “A coconut cream pie served on a slab of oak”. I perhaps would have made it a lemon meringue, coconut cream pie, but otherwise tend to agree. Again, perhaps exaggerated but not a bad wine. Moving on.

****Rivers-Marie, Summa Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir 2006: This wine, by contrast, was my favorite of the evening, though it was not the consensus blue ribbon (in fact I am not sure if it was necessarily even the "best" wine of the evening; just the one I enjoyed drinking the most). Wonderful, fragrant, fresh, perhaps a bit delicate, this wine exudes a deep, feminine rose petal, lavender, orange tisane quality that just lures me in. Clearly very young, I think it will add weight with further bottle time, but it is so hard to stay away from now. The palate is lively but still extremely fine and deep, adding cola, licorice root and pink peppercorn notes from attack all the way through to the lingering, finely grained finish, where the fruit darkens just slightly and adds a forest floor element. Really a great drink.

****GTS, Seaver Family Vineyard, Diamond Mountain, cabernet sauvignon 2005 (release June 2008): Wonderful. The first ever release for this wine (in fact it is not really even yet released), it bodes extremely well for the label. Amy’s favorite wine of the evening. All finesse and balance, this wine wins you over with subtlety and grace. Mostly red fruit driven, it is fairly open knit and nuanced, adding wonderful lavender, plum, forest floor and chocolate. Some noted an alluring black powder, graphite element (I admit to not having ever smelled black powder – this one taster was an ex-marine!) that added to the complexity of the wine. Well oaked, the vanilla is complementary and perfectly integrated, doing what oak is supposed to do, buoying the fruit’s natural elements, not overmatching them. The palate too is extremely inviting, balanced and integrated with more dark fruit, cigar leaf and espresso bean. Finish is long, spicy and sweet. I really enjoyed this wine very much and look forward to drinking more of it as it adds some bottle age.

***+Two Hands, Charlie’s Patch, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: Wow! Hold on to your hats. If you were expecting the smooth, silky, round fruity “Bella’s Garden” shiraz experience you had better regroup! This is a monster of a wine. Massive, deep, laser focused notes of blue and black fruits, menthol, pine and chalk prick up the ears and make you take immediate notice. The palate is a bottomless well lined with granite, deep, deep deep with excellent minerlaity and structure that will make you wince. The finish is almost searing and of ridiculous length, though I have to say this wine has believe it or not softened since I tasted it in barrel. A true vin de garde in the old school, Randy Dunn of the early 80s sense. Given how packed, how stuffed this wine is, I am sure it will reward patience in the cellar. Only caveat is that if this wine lacks anything, it may be balance…perhaps it will sort itself out with time. Again, an inaugural effort.

****Outpost Winery, True Vineyard, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 2005 (release May 2008): Many selected this wine as their wine of the evening. It was a complete unknown to us and we had no expectations when opening it (though I am a huge fan of the Outpost Howell Mountain zinfandels). As it turns out, in many ways it was the belle of the ball, stately, manicured, “complete” as one taster suggested, this wine posseses stature and depth that makes you pause and admire. Wonderful concentration and balance, it is very Bordelaise in its purposefulness and composition (and in its varietal assembly as it turns out - though mostly cab). Still, its purity and focus VERY much belie its Napa Valley roots. Deep, dark, blue black fruits, perfumed violet, subtle tones of briar, amazing minerlaity – like liquid slate, all perfectly integrated, this wine is pure elegance. Wonderful, coating palate deftly balanced from entry to long, steely yet fine, tannic finish. Velvet glove / iron fist? Yup. To think this is the inaugural vintage. What kind of wine can this vineyard make when it has settled in? Word to the wise…get in line now! I have no idea of the price point and honestly care very little: this wine is a buy.

***Maybach Family Vineyards, Materium, Oakville, cabernet sauvignon, 2005 (release May 2008): Finally, a known commodity! The 2004 Maybach was one of my wines of the Polaner Puck building tasting awhile back – and I was quick to secure a few bottles, even at $110 a pop. I will say that the 2005 does not disappoint, though it does not approach the 2004 effort. Like the Seaver, this wine is open and inviting. Perhaps lacking the structure and depth of the Seaver, this may lay a bit flatter, though it does offer yummy flavor and aroma nuances of licorice root, red fruit, smoke, lavender and spice box. The palate is of medium weight and perfectly balanced adding peppery chocolate and a wonderful creamy palate feel ending in fine, sweet tannins. I will drink this wine with great pleasure while await the supposed-to-be mind blowing 2006.

***Diamond Terrace, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 2005 (release June 2008): Interesting that Thomas would select a wine made by a winery on Diamond Mountain, with estate grapes from Diamond Mountain, that was made from Howell mountain fruit. Only 95 cases of this were made. I think it was perhaps my least favorite of the TRB wines, though certainly worthy. It is made in a very heralded, extracted style, that has done very well for wines like Husic and Plump Jack. Raisin-y, stewed plum, chocolaty, almond and baker’s spices waft from the glass. The palate offers more overripe fruit and briar. I cannot but help think of a chocolate, prune Danish (or even better hamantaschen – it is close to Purim!) Amy quips, “This wine is so chocolaty it should come wrapped in foil!” – It is very much a dessert by itself. I am sure Parker will love this Turley-like cab…so if scores matter to you – go out and grab it! While better than any Husic or Plump Jack made, it is still not really my style of cabernet.

****Schrader, ToKalon Beckstoffer vineyard, Oakville, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: Ahhh yes – the Fred Schrader wines. Well, here we are. These wines blew my mind in barrel…and they are better in bottle. Thomas is on a mission with these wines. He has set out to prove just how good the ToKalon Vineyard product is and, even with the vineyards accolades firmly in place, how it can be consistently transformed into something other worldly given the right touch. These wines remind me of the New England Patriots…they show up and simply play their game, regardless of conditions. Good vintage? Tough vintage? Hardly matters – these wines always excel. I guess this is supposed to be the base wine, though there is nothing base about it. A great assembly of soy, red and black currant fruit, cassis, sassy rubbing spices, floral lavender and herbs, this wine has endless, layered depth, amazing purity and wonderful concentration. The palate is voluminous, the wine itself voluptuous and toned at the same time. All kept in perfect balance. Fantastic.

****+Schrader, T-6, ToKalon Beckstoffer vineyard, Oakville, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: The T-6 really echoes all of the “Schrader” Schrader notes, with an even stronger emphasis on the candied violet element within the profile. Perhaps more singularly focused on purity and concentration, this wine is like an Olympic gymnast doing a perfect floor routine – focused, intense, no loose footwork, nothing out of place. Amazing minerality, “a touch of white pepper” was a common comment made. Outstanding.

****Schrader, CCS, ToKalon Beckstoffer vineyard, Oakville, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: For many, this was the wine of the tasting. All of the above notes, with perhaps a rounder, more flamboyant essence to it. I detected an added note of Vienna roasted coffee bean, which added yet more nuance and sophistication to the nose and palate. Still, do not be misled – this wine is about the fruit. Just jam packed, waves and waves of it. Wow. Really a wine you almost surrender all of your sense to. Dynamite in all the ways a wine can be dynamite!

In the end, I think the stated preferences for specific wines said more about the tasters than the wines themselves. All were well made, without exception. If you were more of a purist and appreciated stature, the Outpost must have been very highly rated. A hedonist? The Schrader wines were hard to beat. Looking for a wine you can spoon with after your love affair? The GTS was gentle, deep and warm. All in all…a wonderful tour de force. Thanks Thomas!

Wine Musings Vol#39

Wine of Merit: *****Kongsgaard “The Judge” chardonnay, 2005: Order in the courtroom! This really is an absolutely spectacular wine. I really believe that anyone who has tired of chardonnay must revive / recalibrate his or her taste buds by sampling what John Kongsgaard puts together each and every year in his tete de cuvee of white wines. Everything about it is superlative; the nuanced, complex nose of clover honey, sage, lavender and bosc pear. The oily, viscous mouth feel that adds verbena and slate elements to the palate. The long, spicy, lemony finish that actually shows a zing of red grapefruit right at the end…wow. I love this wine and am happy to buy it year in and year out, even at its heady price of $125 (or $300-$500 after market) a pop. Well worth it.

****+Chateau Palmer, Margaux, Bordeaux 1995: I openly admit to being a total Palmer head. There is just something about the way it all comes together – it is at once pretty yet serious, lithe yet deep, nuanced yet massive - that just makes it one of the great wine experiences to be had. The 1995 is a wonderful wine. It does not have the layer upon layer of complexity that the 1983 or 1989 had. It is a bit more straightforward…but worthy nonetheless. Great Margaux red fruit, wonderful chalky minerals, violets and black licorice…truffles. Great weight, seamless integration, not showing really any age at all, perfect finish that is honed and muscular but still all in balance. A finely toned wine.

****Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Bolgheri, 1997: My friend John Caldarella is on a mission to remind me of how wonderful Italian wines can be. He is succeeding. This is a great wine that has aged beautifully. For those not in the know, Ornellaia is a Bordeaux-like blend originally made by the Antinori family (I believe it has since been sold – anyone see Mondo Vino?). Out of the bottle this is a wild wine…showing smoke, grilled meat, truffle and ripe plum. Palate is coating and expansive with more super ripe fruit, black olive and tar. Finish is also full if not particularly remarkable. With time in the glass it settles down quite a bit, becoming more nuanced and much more red fruit driven. I think this wine is very much ready to drink right now….right at its peak.

****Rivers Marie, Napa Valley cabernet, 2004: I am crazy for Thomas Rivers Brown wines. Outpost, Rivers Marie (his own label), Schrader, Maybach…the list goes on. Thomas is better known for the pinot he makes with this label, but I know what he does with cab and thus was expecting great stuff. I was not disappointed. Wow- this is delicious! Huge nose of blackberry, plum, bittersweet chocolate, scorched earth. This style can easily go over the top (see Husic notes) but this rides the wave perfectly, keeping it just in check. The palate is expansive and generous, adding black pepper and licorice root. Finish is long and still very young. This is a dynamite effort that may reward cellaring…but will be difficult to keep you hands off in the short term. Kudos TRB!

***+Araujo estate grappa, 2003: And now for something completely different…grappa! I love Araujo grappa – it is my favorite of all grappas, better than Nonino, better than their Piccolit. In fact, I would say that this is a great grappa to try if you think you do not like grappa. It is not astringent at all. Lovely, nuanced espresso bean and vanilla notes, with a touch of white flowers. Some heat but not too much. And smooooooth? Wow, the texture and mouth feel are wonderful. Even the finish is great, adding a bit of white pepper and more spice from the oak. A great after meal digestif.

***+Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino, 1999: Another installment of Caldarella on Italian wine. Delicious. Bright raspberry fruit, saddle leather, licorice root. At the top of the maturity bell curve. Expansive and palate coating, with a fine, sweet tannic finish. A statesman of a wine. I could drink a lot of this!

***+Castel Giocondo Brunello di Montalcino, 1999: Lovely and very mature. This wine shows red and black fruit, morel mushrooms, a nice black olive element and toast. Not thinning on the palate but clearly mature. Lovely mineral element mid palate. This is a dynamite wine that offers great nuance and really got better and better as the evening progressed.

***+Frogs Leap Napa Valley cabernet, 2001: Another surprise. I have always enjoyed Frogs leap wines (if you have never had their “Late Leap” Sauternes-like dessert wine, you should…the packaging alone is worth the effort) but never thought of them as more than restaurant fare. This wine was much better than that. Very nice depth, with good grip and balance, this wine is still youthful but very much in alignment. Black, berry fruit, tar, minerals and violets create an alluring mélange. Again, the palate shows nice heft and balance with more black fruit and some briar. No drop off to the finish, which offers fine, sweet tannins. A very worthy wine from a very worthy vintage.

***Newton Unfiltered chardonnay, 2002: Flamboyant and fun. This is a no holds barred chardonnay. It offers over the top aromas of lemon meringue, hibiscus, marzipan and grilled peach. The palate is lush, perhaps a tad flabby, adding elements of linseed and café au lait. Nice, candied citrus zest finish with more toasty, spicy oak. Honestly, it was a bit of a surprise to me as the 2003 is a much more balanced, nuanced wine. Smoke ‘em if you got ‘em.