Wine Musings Vol#78

Wine of Merit: ****Leoville Poyferre, estate, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1996: Signing in full voice. Just great, room-filling aromatics. Garrigue, blackberry, nicoise olives, licorice, cassis. Clear-eyed, focused and very much on point. The palate glides. More berries, chocolate, integrated, a touch of clove. Finish is fine and long. A wine to enjoy now or cellar for another 10 years. A pleasure - and probably still a value from that vintage as it was not a huge scoring wine upon release (88 WS, 93 RP).

***+Newton Cellars, Napa Valley, Unfiltered cabernet sauvignon, 1991: Just right. Evolved. Mature red plum fruit, funghi trifolati, grilled fennel, tar. The palate is velvet, more plum and chocolate, coating. Finish is succulent and of middle length. A wine that is giving it all it has right now.

*** Chateau La Nerthe, Chateauneuf du Pape, Blanc, 2004: Love it! Great, zesty white from the sunny part of France. I am crazy for white chateauneuf, especially in ripe vintages. This wine just has wonderful joie de vivre, great concentration and boyancy! Floral, expansive, happy notes of grilled pineapple, clover honey, cardamom, fennel, a touch of lilac or lavender. The palate is full yet firmly structured and the finish long and spicy. Van Gogh is a glass. Bottled sunshine.

***Jocelyn Lonen, Bohn Vineyard, Russian River Valley, sonoma, Reserve chardonnay, 2006: Very nice indeed. I think this represents a good benchamrk for RRV chardonnay; lovely, bright citrus zest, lime blossom, nuances of sweet tropical fruit. A note of bees wax and mild tobacco. The palate is rich, viscous and oily, adding some mineral and marzipan sugar. The finish is spicy and long, a touch of nutmeg. No one would confuse this with a white burg and no one should. A smile.

***Bedell Cellars, Cupola, North Fork Long Island, 1998: I do not profess a great deal of knowledge about Long Island wines. This is a meritage of sorts, representing a typical Bordeaux blend with cabernert, merlot, cab franc, petite verdot and malbec. I have to say...it is delicious! Age has added nice complexity to the nose, with ripe black berry fruit components, a touch of bell pepper and truffle, violets and licorice root. The low alcohol and still bright acids makes this wine a joy to have with food. Perhaps the mid palate could use some stuffing. But for a 10 year old wine you take the mid town tunnel to get to, I was impressed. Well done!

**++Duhart Millon, estate, Paulliac, Bordeaux, 1996: Buoyed by the Poyferre, I struck out for gold again. No such luck. A very decent, perfumed wine, this iteration seems a bit tired. Lovely red and black fruits on the nose, cedar and cassis. A hint of minerals. The palate thins a bit in the middle and the finish is on the short side. Probably a wine to drink up, wistfully thinking about what could have been.

Wine Musings Vol#64

Wine of Merit: ****+Domaine Paul Autard, La Cote Ronde, Chateauneuf du Pape, 2003: Wow! I have previously posted with great admiration of and appreciation for this wine and winemaker. Truth be told this wine is simply at its pinnacle and garners even greater praise. While both this and the Moncayo (see below) are based on the same varietal that is where the similarities end. This wine is all about sophistication and nuance, with deftly integrated elements that come together to create a masterpiece. Layers upon layers of boysenberry, pipe tobacco, fresh virgin olive oil, black nicoise olive tapenade, lavender and violets, pink peppercorn (I know I can’t believe it either!) all distinct and intact come together like a delicious meal would with perfectly harmonious ingredients. What a masterful wine. The flavors integrate just as well on the coating palate, where the peppercorn and fruit elements play more center stage. Just perfect integration and balance with a tremendous, spice infused finish, all of which bode well for future aging. Given its avails at under $50, I can’t speak highly enough of this wine. I would buy more before Jean-paul Autard becomes the next Paul Avril! A real pleasure.

***++Chateau Duhart Million, Domains Barons de Rothschild, Paulliac, Grand Cru Classe, Bordeaux, 2000: From magnum. Just a dynamite wine. Hard to believe that cali cab makers are fronting 1st vintage “cults” for over $100 a bottle when stuff with this provenance and pedigree can be had for 40% less eight years after vintage. To be fair, this wine has received tepid reviews which I am sure have kept the price down. Our luck – I would buy some before RP checks back in on the wine again (his scores have gone up every year he has re-tasted this wine)! Anyway…to each his own. With 2 to 4 hours of air this wine opens to reveal layer upon layer of velvety, rich pipe tobacco, cassis, blackberry, blood, grilled meats, cinnamon and licorice root. More black fruit and super liquid minerals on the muscular but very approachable palate. Deft balance and integration right through to the fine, almost sweet finish. Sure, this wine can be put away and it will age and nuance…or it can be enjoyed now for its exuberance – with lots of decanting time. A wine that can be had with a nice piece of red meat and then pondered through desert and beyond. A winner.

***++Newton, Unfiltered, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2003: I am amazed at how good this wine is for the price. Full throttle chard to be sure, but never out of balance and very nicely integrated. Meyer lemon, crème brule, popcorn, baking spices, mission fig…super. Some nice liquid minerals on the palate and a hint of herbs. Long spicy finish. Drinking great at age 5. Yes, this wine lacks the nuanced nature and great structure of wines made by Kongsgaard and Aubert – but for $40 a pop? It’s a no brainer.

***+Guigal, Brune et Blonde, Cote Rotie, 2001: Another wow wine. I love this wine. Wonderful complexity. Tar, grilled meats, racy red currant, rose petal, pepper and spice. Just delicious. Deft balance. Great flavors of mature red fruit, minerals and pepper. Lovely integration front to back. Long, stuffed finish. Just a great example of more and more my favorite wine region. A great buy when you realize that the single vineyard Guigals cost 5x as much.

***+Pride Mountain Vineyards, Estate, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2002: Yummy. This wine very much reminds me of the Bryant Family style; Lush, thick blueberry preserves, a touch of banana cream, valhrona chocolate, baking spices and so much hazel-nutty, vanilla new oak you are not sure whether to drink it or pour it on top of vanilla ice cream. Coating palate, warm, medium finish. Completely open knit, delicious and a wonderful romp…It is so easy and silky on the palate almost drinks itself! But – like the Bryant Family wines themselves – I cannot imagine paying hundreds of dollars a bottle. To me this is a wine to enjoy with a smile and a nod to Robert Parker and his “gobs and gobs of hedonistic fruit” international style (if pressed, I would have guessed Aussie for this wine)…not something to search for like the grail, as folks do with Bryant Family and Mollydooker. Still…lovely!

***Antinori, Tignanello, IGT, Toscana, 2000: Now that’s Italian. Probably one of the more average vintages for this grand daddy of the Super Tuscans, it still reverberates with the essence of Tuscany and its homey varietal, Sangiovese. Bright , spicy mulberry and pomegranate, traditional elements of saddle leather, grilled meats and a wonderful violet tone, this particular Tignanello is velvety, forward and forthcoming…a delicious Tuscan red that adds weight and sophistication in better vintages. Nice medium long finish. A wine to be enjoyed sooner rather than later in my opinion.

***Alto Moncayo, Campo de Borja, granacha, 2005: Another Spanish Robert Parker recipe wine. Not to say that this wine is not delicious in a full throttle, over the top kind of way but it is sad to see this phenomenon creep across the globe. First California, then Australia, then Spain (it is no surprise that Dan Phillips has his hand in this wine)…each learning that over extraction, high alcohol and flogging of new oak garners big scores and with them big money. To whit: Thick, jammy blueberry preserves, vanilla, thick bittersweet chocolate, even some overripe bananas just launch themselves from the glass. The palate is fat and thick, reminiscent of blueberry infused maple syrup (brought on no doubt by the 16% alcohol this wine fronts). The finish continues with intense fruit and fine tannin, integrating nicely with the lush, mouth coating entry. A cartoon like wine (I always think of Willy Wonka when I have these wines) that I enjoy drinking every once in a rare while. In the meantime, I’ll take a CVNE Imperial to go!

Wine Musings @ 50: The Half Century

Wine of Merit: ****+Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Estate Vineyard, Paulliac, cabernet sauvignon, 1999: A stately, formidable wine. Archetypal Paulliac nose of blue fruits, cassis, graphite, chalk, licorice root. Amazing depth. Strong, gripping palate, the emphasis on balance and integration makes it surprisingly full and rich at the same time. Harmonious. Lithe yet sure footed. Perfectly toned, almost sculpted. A serious wine that almost lulls you to sleep with its grace – but upon deeper inspection approaches mythological stature (the painted reference to the eclipse above the label and the sprightly engraved “1999” on the bottle only adding to the effect). At over $400, no longer a screaming buy…but certainly worthy.

****Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Estate Vineyard, Paulliac, cabernet sauvignon, 1999: Pure Sex. You know the sex Dudley Moore fantasized about with Bo Derek on the beach in “10”? That kind of sex. Wonderful, thick roiling layers of red fruit, currants, cigar smoke, cedar, morels, Provencal herbs, lavender waft up from the glass. Velvety, coating, voluptuous palate of black and blue fruits, mint chocolate, wood spices. Dried cherries and black pepper on the long, sweet finish. Youthful, well balanced, enthusiastic…nubile? Not that this wine would ever be confused with an 82, 86 or 00 Mouton, but it does possess a wonderful come hither quality that cannot be ignored. And at a price point south of $200 – a great buy and drinking great right now.

****Newton, Unfiltered, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2003: Wonderful. I much prefer this vintage to the 2002, which garnered much more press due primarily to its flamboyant style. This wine has better balance and integration. I have reviewed this wine before and the earlier notes stay true – fresh, perfumed verbena, citrus, lemon custard, fine minerality, orange blossom. Kissed with oak, long in the finish…dynamite wine. Hard to believe you can get this at $30. Great buy.

***Cavallotto, Bricco Boschis, Langhe, Friesa, 2005: My luck with lower priced wines continues! Here is another sub $20 red very worthy of consideration. Cavalotto is well known for making good, honest, Piemontese wines from Faletto, of exceptional note their Barolo from their estate on the Bricco Boschis site. This Friesa – a lighter bodied grape known for higher acids - lacks the seriousness of the Barolo perhaps, but it makes up for it in youthful exuberance and approachability. Bright red fruit, violets, great minerals and pepper. On the palate – more red fruit and pepper…the racy acids make this a great food wine and I bet would go great with tomato based sauces, almost like a full bodied pinot noir. The finish is soft with baking spices. Yummy!

***Slaughterhouse Cellars, Proprietors Reserve, Rutherford, cabernet sauvignon, 2002: Lovely. We can argue later whether naming a wine slaughterhouse is a good idea…the wine is worthy of compliment. Very red fruit / plum driven and rose petal perfumed, almost feminine, this reminds me of a Dr. Crane vineyard cabernet. The fruit notes integrate in a velvety mélange with soy, cedar, pipe tobacco and melted licorice. Cab Franc adds some richness and depth, along with morel and espresso macchiato. The palate is open knit and welcoming, coating front to back. Not super long but fine and silky. Really very nice indeed.

***John Tyler, Baciagalupi Vineyard, Russain River Valley, pinot noir, 2002: Who doesn’t like to say “Baciagalupi”? It is simply fun to say! And this wine is fun to drink. Simply delicious. Great expression of RRV terroir, this creamy, black cherry, cola driven pinot is plain old yummy. Great integration of Provencal herbs, Malabar pepper on the palate and a fine, silky sweet finish. I have had this wine previously on release and I think it has gotten even better. This time I am impressed with its depth and texture, great mouthfeel and balance. Another pound the table buy at around $30. No excuses needed to enjoy this wine while thinking to yourself, “Baciagalupi! Hee hee”.

**++David Coffaro Vineyard and Winery, Estate Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley, carignane, 1996: How can you not love David Coffaro? His joyous, centered attitude just infiltrates every aspect of his wine. You can taste the pleasure winemaking brings him right in the glass. I would soundly recommend that anybody who is not familiar with David check him and his wine out…especially his futures program which offers yummy wine at ridiculously low prices ($10 a pop when I bought this, now maybe $20). As it turns out, his wines are really wonderful – I love his estate cuvee. This wine probably could have been drunk awhile back but still offers lots of pleasure right now. Camphor, dry creek spicy red fruit, briar, black pepper…racy acids add a zing that makes this a great food wine. Finish is still spicy and long. Great example of Dry Creek terroir. No surprise Doug Nalle sources from here. Thanks David.

**++Bjornstad Cellars, Ritchie Vineyard, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2005: Very good, if paling significantly against the Aubert and Ramey iterations of the same. I think that may actually be a perfect tasting note; it is just like those wines but much less so. Less perfumed, less meyer lemon, less corton-like linseed, marzipan and custard. A touch more malic, wood slightly more evident on the palate, less oily and unctuous…very nicely balanced…just not what I have come to expect from this RRV gran cru vineyard. And at $50 there is little value here.

Wine Musings Vol#49

Wine of Merit: ****Shibumi Knoll, Shibumi Knoll Vineyards, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: Wonderfully elegant, even if perhaps a bit short of its Japanese meaning, “Effortless Perfection” (though I admire the pluck). Still…this is a classic effort. Extremely well crafted, it is reminiscent of the Lokoya wines that I cellar with enthusiasm. Stylish, somewhat reserved notes of cassis, red currant, graphite and pipe tobacco weave themselves together seamlessly. With time, these characteristics are enhanced with more redolent black fruit notes. The palate feel is pronounced but not overwhelming, its presence complementary to the flavors, coating from entry to finish, now introducing melted licorice and mint, a hint of hazelnut from the oak, adding to the wines overall gravitas and sense of balance and harmony. The finish is very firm and long but never really out of balance with the rest of the experience. Certainly a wine that will reward cellaring. I am blown away by how sophisticated this effort is, in the winery’s second vintage. One to watch with enthusiasm. At $80, expensive…and worth it. Kudos!

***+Chateau Saint Martin de la Garrigues, Le Bronzinelle, Coteaux du Languedoc, 1999: This wine was literally and figuratively a gift. Offered to me by a dear friend, brought home gingerly from a trip to Paris, this wine is wonderful in its simplicity and exuberance. A Syrah, Grenache, Mouvedre, Carignan blend. Plush, fragrant Languedoc aromas of plump red fruit, grilled meats, bell pepper, smoke and yes garrigue waft from the glass. Velvety and round on the palate, with blackberry, briar and chocolate elements all integrated and smooth. Not that the wine is flabby – the acids are lively but nicely integrated with the flavors, all kept in balance. The finish is silky and sweet, with a touch of café au lait and wood spices. Drinking perfectly now. I don’t have the heart to tell her it is imported by Kermit Lynch and can be had for under $20 (in fact under $15). But I will tell you all – and pound the table as it is a steal. I love the Languedoc!

**++Newton, Unfiltered, chardonnay, 1994: It’s alive! A surprise find while digging through the cellar, I did not hold out much hope. Given the dark glass bottle, I could not tell the color but expected that dark, almost persimmon hue that typically suggests maderized chard. Instead…voila! A promising pale gold. Could it be? Fresh if demure aromatics of lemon curd, pineapple, mango and clover. The palate is bright and surprisingly firm…a slight sprtiz at entry, tangerine and a very nice mineral flintiness. The finish is lightly honeyed, showing a touch of tobacco and spicy oak that sadly just turns bitter at the very end. Wow! I would never have guessed this wine would have held on this long. A very nice surprise indeed.

**++Chehalem, 3 Vineyards, Willamette Valley, pinot noir, 2006: Delightful. Still sorting itself out, the 2006 Chehalem 3 vineyards, their entry pinot if you will, still offers bright, tangy cherry fruit, green tea, herbs and a nice cherry blossom element. The palate is also bright and racy, with more red fruit and licorice. Fine, spicy finish. Fairly simple, this is a nice, quaffable pinot noir. Perhaps it will add more weight and complexity with age, but for now it is pleasant and a very nice “first wine” at any meal.

A few side notes: The **Turjanis, Buena Tierra, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2001 and the **Chasseur, Lorenzo Vineyard, Russian River Valley, chardonnay 2003 have either passed their primes or were not very special to begin with. Funny, as both boast excellent provenance. This is the second wine from Karen Bower Turjanis that has left me tepid, the other being the Steiner pinot, it too from great grapes. Odd as she has made such great wines for Lokoya and others in the past. In this case, the nose is demure, the palate lemony and vanilla with too much oak showing through, the finish flaccid. The Chasseur is a problem. I like Bill Hunter’s wines so much when they are young…really great stuff. But even just a little bit of bottle age seems to knock his wines for a loop. Here the wine is already showing a mute nose and candied palate flavors with a touch of hazelnut, on its way to old age after only 3 years in bottle. Disappointing.

Wine Musings Vol#39

Wine of Merit: *****Kongsgaard “The Judge” chardonnay, 2005: Order in the courtroom! This really is an absolutely spectacular wine. I really believe that anyone who has tired of chardonnay must revive / recalibrate his or her taste buds by sampling what John Kongsgaard puts together each and every year in his tete de cuvee of white wines. Everything about it is superlative; the nuanced, complex nose of clover honey, sage, lavender and bosc pear. The oily, viscous mouth feel that adds verbena and slate elements to the palate. The long, spicy, lemony finish that actually shows a zing of red grapefruit right at the end…wow. I love this wine and am happy to buy it year in and year out, even at its heady price of $125 (or $300-$500 after market) a pop. Well worth it.

****+Chateau Palmer, Margaux, Bordeaux 1995: I openly admit to being a total Palmer head. There is just something about the way it all comes together – it is at once pretty yet serious, lithe yet deep, nuanced yet massive - that just makes it one of the great wine experiences to be had. The 1995 is a wonderful wine. It does not have the layer upon layer of complexity that the 1983 or 1989 had. It is a bit more straightforward…but worthy nonetheless. Great Margaux red fruit, wonderful chalky minerals, violets and black licorice…truffles. Great weight, seamless integration, not showing really any age at all, perfect finish that is honed and muscular but still all in balance. A finely toned wine.

****Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Bolgheri, 1997: My friend John Caldarella is on a mission to remind me of how wonderful Italian wines can be. He is succeeding. This is a great wine that has aged beautifully. For those not in the know, Ornellaia is a Bordeaux-like blend originally made by the Antinori family (I believe it has since been sold – anyone see Mondo Vino?). Out of the bottle this is a wild wine…showing smoke, grilled meat, truffle and ripe plum. Palate is coating and expansive with more super ripe fruit, black olive and tar. Finish is also full if not particularly remarkable. With time in the glass it settles down quite a bit, becoming more nuanced and much more red fruit driven. I think this wine is very much ready to drink right now….right at its peak.

****Rivers Marie, Napa Valley cabernet, 2004: I am crazy for Thomas Rivers Brown wines. Outpost, Rivers Marie (his own label), Schrader, Maybach…the list goes on. Thomas is better known for the pinot he makes with this label, but I know what he does with cab and thus was expecting great stuff. I was not disappointed. Wow- this is delicious! Huge nose of blackberry, plum, bittersweet chocolate, scorched earth. This style can easily go over the top (see Husic notes) but this rides the wave perfectly, keeping it just in check. The palate is expansive and generous, adding black pepper and licorice root. Finish is long and still very young. This is a dynamite effort that may reward cellaring…but will be difficult to keep you hands off in the short term. Kudos TRB!

***+Araujo estate grappa, 2003: And now for something completely different…grappa! I love Araujo grappa – it is my favorite of all grappas, better than Nonino, better than their Piccolit. In fact, I would say that this is a great grappa to try if you think you do not like grappa. It is not astringent at all. Lovely, nuanced espresso bean and vanilla notes, with a touch of white flowers. Some heat but not too much. And smooooooth? Wow, the texture and mouth feel are wonderful. Even the finish is great, adding a bit of white pepper and more spice from the oak. A great after meal digestif.

***+Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino, 1999: Another installment of Caldarella on Italian wine. Delicious. Bright raspberry fruit, saddle leather, licorice root. At the top of the maturity bell curve. Expansive and palate coating, with a fine, sweet tannic finish. A statesman of a wine. I could drink a lot of this!

***+Castel Giocondo Brunello di Montalcino, 1999: Lovely and very mature. This wine shows red and black fruit, morel mushrooms, a nice black olive element and toast. Not thinning on the palate but clearly mature. Lovely mineral element mid palate. This is a dynamite wine that offers great nuance and really got better and better as the evening progressed.

***+Frogs Leap Napa Valley cabernet, 2001: Another surprise. I have always enjoyed Frogs leap wines (if you have never had their “Late Leap” Sauternes-like dessert wine, you should…the packaging alone is worth the effort) but never thought of them as more than restaurant fare. This wine was much better than that. Very nice depth, with good grip and balance, this wine is still youthful but very much in alignment. Black, berry fruit, tar, minerals and violets create an alluring mélange. Again, the palate shows nice heft and balance with more black fruit and some briar. No drop off to the finish, which offers fine, sweet tannins. A very worthy wine from a very worthy vintage.

***Newton Unfiltered chardonnay, 2002: Flamboyant and fun. This is a no holds barred chardonnay. It offers over the top aromas of lemon meringue, hibiscus, marzipan and grilled peach. The palate is lush, perhaps a tad flabby, adding elements of linseed and café au lait. Nice, candied citrus zest finish with more toasty, spicy oak. Honestly, it was a bit of a surprise to me as the 2003 is a much more balanced, nuanced wine. Smoke ‘em if you got ‘em.

Wine Musings Vol#19

From notes taken May, 2006:

Wine of Merit: ****Newton Unfiltered Chardonnay, 2003: Wonderful. Great structure, minerality and depth. Reminds me of a young, Coche Dury Mersault. Wet flint or slate, then Anjou pear, asian spice and white flowers. Great depth, with verbena and nutmeg on the palate. Deep. Long finish. Nice.

***Myuge Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, 2003: Purchased at the urging of Sharon Severens over at Amanti Vino – (congrats on the new baby boy, Sharon!) – and with good cause. This wine is made by the same folks who make Favia pinots (see previous review) – and candidly, they are of that same, Favia / Kosta Browne, type of mold. Reminds me of the older Williams Selyem style…not light of hand, pretty well extracted but laser focused and nicely integrated. Striking notes of cinnamon, green tea, black cherry and pink peppercorn jump from the glass. With air the New French Oak also shows through, adding vanilla and brightening the cinnamon elements. The palate is creamy and coating and the finish, aided by the oak is long and lush. There is no mistaking this wine for anything else other than excellent, RRV pinot – which you may either dig or not so much. I do.

***Haut Bages Liberal, 2000: I opened this bottle to get a sense of the wine as it applies to 2005 futures. If this wine is any indication, I say buy! Wonderful though still hard as nails – it is all about Paulliac – deep black fruit, cassis, lead pencil, cigar box. Hard to judge concentration as the wine is so bruising and young, but all of the elements seem in place. Tannins are very firm but furry, not painful. Needs another 4 to 6 years and then will continue to evolve for 10+. Given that I bought this at $275 a case in futures, this is clearly a great alternative to some of the overpriced big boys. It reminds me of the bargain Pontet Canet used to be.

*++Suasal Century Vines, zinfandel, 2003: This got big press some time ago, so I thought I would try a bottle. It is not my style of zin. 14.8% alcohol, over extracted, almost port like stewed black fruit, bramble, church incense. Intense chocolate. Fat. If you love Turley and the like this is a great buy. Let me know who you are as I have another bottle in the cellar.

*+Ridge Bertuzzi zinfandel, 1994, ATP: I stopped getting ATP wines when I realized it was Ridge’s version of the island of misfit toys. This is proof positive. Admittedly, this wine should have been consumed 4 to 5 years ago. I am not sure it was spectacular then either. The wine is a bit disjointed, with a tired nose of tomato skin with some red fruit and bramble. Probably the Alicante which has fallen apart. The palate is much nicer, with plum and chocolate, violets and white pepper notes. The finish is pleasant if fading.

*++Ridge Allegria vineyard zinfandel, 1994, ATP: The definition of insanity is doing the same thing a second time and expecting a different outcome. Here again, tired fruit upfront (though it has not fallen apart the way the Bertolozzi did), followed by a good core of bramble, pepper and plum. I think the lack of Alicante allowed this wine more focus. The air dried American Oak tinges the wine with a green wood quality. Next.

**++Biale, Aldo’s vineyard, 1994: The old zin experiment continues. An elegant, if fragile wine, this offers much better integrity and balance. A lovely wine showing it’s sense of place quite nicely. The knock on Biale is the wines are subtle and maybe more claret like. I am sure that is what has allowed this wine to age as well as it has, even though its best days are behind it. Drink now.

Wine Musings Vol#10

From notes taken Febuary, 2006:

Wine of Merit: ***++Cornerstone Cabernet, 1992: A re-do from a corked bottle. As I had suspected, this wine has progressed perfectly. Mountain fruit that has matured and come along very nicely. It will now reward those who stood by it for these 13 years. Heady, sweet and perfumed, perfect black fruit and bramble, velvet, wet slate and chalk, still chewy, a big wine from a soft-ish vintage. Far from finished but drinking great now. Drink this with a nice meal, like a grilled game hen with rosemary and new potatoes and thank Hashem for the little things in life. Well done Bruce!

***+Newton Unfiltered Cabernet, 1991: More fodder for 1991 being the vintage of the 90s in Napa. Deep, if maturing, color to the rim. Wonderfully complex and deftly balanced, almost St. Emillion-like, tertiary aromas of grilled meats, earth, cigar box and velvety red fruit unfold from the glass. Lovely, mature body, thinning just slightly, furry finish. Very sexy wine. If the Galleron is Denueve, then this is Ursula Andress: Less mystery, more body! The time to drink this is now.

**Melville Estate Pinot Noir, 2000: Clone 115, wild yeast fermented from the central coast – like 100 cases made. Deep, very extracted, thick pinot noir (14.5% alcohol). Lush, black cherry, kirshwasser, cream and jammy strawberry preserves. Full palate through to a very firm, almost peppery finish. I am not a huge fan of this style of pinot. It lacks class and finesse, trading those qualities for over-the-top flavors and mouth feel. Others love it (as in “gobs and gobs of hedonistic fruit…”). I am guessing that it, like similarly styled zins and syrahs, will get pruney before it ever knits together to show any elegance. I appreciate the effort and simply choose to disagree with the style.

***Harrison Cabernet Sauvignon, 1993: A horse of a different color! Pritchard Hill fruit. Very nice indeed, particularly with a meal. Classically styled cabernet. Elegant integration front to back. This wine has aged well, showing well knitted notes of blackberry and plum, green tea, minerals and mint. Full mouth-feel with no drop off. Good structure hints that this should hold on for a year or two. Still, the time is now. Eric Brown says, “Delicious”. There you have it.

**+Rodney Strong Cabernet Reserve, Alexander Valley, 1992: A good, solid cabernet. Solid garnet color to the rim. Perfectly resolved, red fruit, minerals, truffles and lavender. Coating entry and full mid palate. Finish is thinning a touch, revealing some of the new oak this has been aged in. Hard to believe this wine has held up as well as it has for 13 years. I think I paid $10 a pop back in the day. And ice cream was a nickel, too! Drink now over the next 12 months.

*+St. Francis Pagani Ranch Zinfandel, 1995: Full throttle zin from the famed Pagani Ranch. High alcohol (15%), unctuous and thick, this wine was a “fruit bomb” on issue. With time, the plum and red fruit has become of the stewed variety and the alcohol has made this more than a little hot on the finish. Oak elements are also of note (chocolate, dill, vanilla) as is some soy. I think this serves as a good case study for those high scoring, high alcohol zins that Robert Parker loves. They are clearly for near term consumption and can be appreciated for their over-the-top styles – but do not confuse them with the best iterations of the varietal (see Nalle, Ridge, Ravenswood or the Rafanelli - the 3 Rs of zin – for beautiful, balanced wines that can age effortlessly). FIN

***Chassuer, Lorenzo vineyard Chardonnay, 2003: The Hunter becomes the hunted! I am a fan of Chassuer wines and have been since before it was cool (Still drinking my 98 Shop Block). Made by Bill Hunter up in Sebastopol, the chards and pinots are serious, well made and unapologetic. Good, pale straw to golden hue with excellent clarity, this young chard shows weight and complexity. The nose is expansive, with buttered popcorn, mission fig and plenty of toast that is well integrated and not dominant. Reminds me of a good Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne. Oily, the palate is full and coating, offering tropical fruit, blood orange and lichee, with cardamom and vanilla crème brulee and a firm, long spicy finish. It is so hard to get the oak thing right - and in this case it is perfectly integrated. While 2002 will undoubtedly earn higher praises for the RRV than 2003, this is a solid effort – and will improve with a year or two in the bottle. 294 cases made. I bought a bunch and I am glad I did!