Wine Musings Vol#77

Wine of Merit: ****+Gaja, Sperss, Barolo, nebbiolo, 1995: A masterpiece. A prime example for those that truly appreciated that pre 1996 Gaja quest for purity. In 1996 Gaja decided to forgo the Barolo appellation so that they could "improve"the wine by adding barbera and cabernet. I love those assembled wines but have a special place in my heart for the Barolo. The 1995 is a wonderful example. Deep, ponderous,black cherry liqueur enveloped in dark, bittersweet chocolate as a base note. Higher toned, almost tangy Worcestershire notes (the UK iteration made with malt vinegar, tamarind and molasses) accompany. Fantastic! The palate is still very youthful and a bit angular but delivers plenty of black fruit, minerals, liquorice and the promise of more to come. Monster finish that is somehow still deftly integrated with the rest of the wine. Tour de Force!

***++Shibumi Knoll, Buena Tierra Vineyard, RRV, Sonoma, chardonnay, 2005: Delicious. Evidently this wine got a big score (97pts) by Jim Laube recently and thus has had some talk value. I bought it awhile ago, prior to the write up, along with the wonderful cabernet (Musings vol#49). I don't know that I would offer those kinds of accolades but this sonoma chardonnay is certainly worthy. Not for the meek, this wine is all about thick, oily, linseed and buttered popcorn. Exotic, Asian spices. Candied citrus zest and meringue. Yum! The palate is perhaps not quite as unctuous and layered, though it also features lovely citrus, latte foam and a sense of minerals. The finish integrates nicely. Not Aubert or Kongsgaard complexity, structure or depth, perhaps a level just below. A lovely, low production chard that is no longer a secret. Shibumi? Shattered!

**++Mas de la Deveze, 66, Cotes du Rousillion, grenache, 2004: A romp! Solid and wonderfully artisianal. Good stuffing, red fruit, iron, white pepper, grilled meats, some garrigue. A bit rustic but in a very honest, even earnest, kind of way. Good, youthful exuberance with nice balance and integration. No noticeable presence of new wood. I am almost embarrassed to admit that this is a $8.99 garagiste purchase. A dynamite daily drinker. I understand the 2005 to be even better. Do not hate...celebrate!

**++Domaine Zind Humbrecht, Gueberschwihr, riesling, 2004: Lovely. Not as big and flamboyant as I was lead to believe. Nice, golden delicious apple, anjou pear and nectarine notes. Some clover honey-like sweetness though not overt or distracting. Thick, concentrated and viscous on the palate with a touch of tobacco, slate and a nice mineral finish that dries toward the end. A very nice wine to accompany a spicy Thai dish, or sushi.

Wine Musings Vol#16

From notes taken May, 2006:

Wine of Merit: ****+Gaja Sperss Barolo, 1995: Mesmerizing. Wonderful depth and complexity. Aromas of black olive, provencal herbs, flint, grilled meats and deep, dark berry fruit. Smoke. The wine coats the palate, offering blackberry, rosemary and minerals. Hints of spearmint. The finish pretty much never ends, though it is nicely integrated with the mid palate. Monumental.

****Feudi di San Gregorio, Serpico, 2001: Inky. This wine is a youthful giant. The fruit almost seems chunky and raw. Mocha, violets and leather accompany the jammy, preserve like strawberry and blueberry fruit. Palate is thick and tannins are still overpowering. It clearly has all of the elements to be a star, it simply lacks the grace and coordination, though I am certain time will bring it all together. Patience required.

***+ Ridge Lytton Estate 1994: This is a selection of barrels from the hillside vineyards surrounding the Lytton Springs Winery in Dry Creek for the ATP program. It is a field blend of mostly zinfandel, with petite syrah and grenache mixed in. Maturing red/plum color. A wonderful nose of bramble, roasted plum, rosemary and coffee bean. The palate is youthful, revealing more fruit, white pepper, minerals and mocha. The tannins have been tamed somewhat though still pronounced through the finish. Surprisingly young. Nice!

**++Aia Cabernet, 2001: From Miner family winery. SLD cabernet with bright red fruit, saddle leather, cedar and grilled meats. Surprisingly soft on the palate, velvety with a fruit forward personality. Very nice, if a bit obvious.

****Wolf Family Vineyard Cabernet, 2002: Wow. This is a very sophisticated wine. The Wolf family took over the Inglewood vineyards awhile back and has been producing small lots of cabernet since the late 90s, I think. Karen Culler – who makes killer wines for Ladera and and her own label - makes their wine. This wine is sublime. Perfectly balanced and offering intense depth and great richness, the nose is tobacco, red fruit, cigar box and licorice. Approachable now though it is still showing baby fat, it will benefit from age and only get more interesting.

****+Kalin Semillion, Livermore Valley 1996: So good it scares me! I can count on one hand the successful semillions from the new world. OK – one finger. This wine sings. The clear glass bottle shows off the wonderful golden hue. The nose is crazy intense – vanilla / almond crème brulee, candied orange zest, apricot, honeysuckle and asian spice. Amazingly rich and oily. Great attack and intensity through the mid palate. Long. Tobacco and honey. Wow, a really yummy wine. At $30 a pop, this is a true steal.