Wine Musings Vol#97

Wine of Merit: ***+Les Pagodes de Cos, St. Estephe, Bordeaux, 2000: A lovely surprise from Cos D'Estournel's second label. While 2000 has earned the reputation for some hard-as-nails wines, this is not one of them. Rich, sweet blackberry, licorice, cedar and tobacco. A hint of minerals. The palate is full, textured, fruitful and not hard edged anywhere. Lovely integration front to back, to a medium long finish with fine tannins. A pleasure.

***+ Conn Valley Vineyards, Right Bank, Napa, meritage, 2007: Another incredibly pleasing wine. A merlot/cab blend. Similar notes, with the addition of youthful exuberance. Ripe, juicy, black cherry and berry fruit. A touch of vanilla pipe tobacco. A hint of nicoise olive. Lots of baby fat. Balanced nicely hinting at aging potential and the development of tertiary complexity. Yummy right now!

***+Eric Texier, Cote Rotie, Vielles Vignes, syrah, 2005: I admit right upfront that I am a huge Texier fan. His wines sacrifice goofy extraction and ripeness for balance, integration and nuance. This wine is no exception. Inviting in almost a polite way, it offers beautifully delineated syrah aromatics of blueberry compote, wildflowers and carbonara (well cooked pancetta, pepper, a touch of something richer and creamier). The palate has pinot like flow and the finish is elegant and focused. Clearly a wine that will age well as I muddle through earlier vintages. Just wonderful. Bravo.

***Kosta Browne, Koplen vineyard, Russian River Valley, pinot noir, 2006: From the sublime...Actually, while there is no mistaking these pinot noirs for Burgundy, they offer lots of pleasure in their own way. Thick black cherry and vanilla ice cream notes, here with a note of raspberry and a nuance of something not quite as sweet, perhaps Mariage Freres Marco Polo tea. The palate is thankfully not quite as blousy, with a nice core of cherry fruit but also some malabar pepper, cola and fine tannin to the finish. This wine is better than the RRV and can probably stand another year in the cellar, though it is meant for drinking in the nearer term. Nice.

***Chateau Fuisse, Puilly Fuisse, Les Combettes, Burgundy, 2006: The theme continues to be rich wines. Initial notes of struck match from liberal use of sulphur. Then, with aeration, spicy preserved lemons, Asian pears, grilled fennel and lily of the valley. Bright and racy on the palate. Good acids with minerals and a slightly more candied citrus element. Fine, focused, spicy finish. Delicious.

Wine Musings Vol#73

****Wine of Merit: Kosta Browne, Amber Ridge vineyard, Russian River Valley, pinot noir, 2006: Much has been said and written about the Kosta Browne pinots. I tend to agree with most of it. That said, the 2006s were not given the same drop-to-your-knees-not-worthy accolades. Candidly, I am not sure why. This wine is nothing short of wonderful. Deep, expansive, layered, it is a wonderful example of both the RRV terroir and the varietal. And the deft blending of clones is close to perfect. Clearly more clone 667 driven, this wine has excellent structure and a black cherry, cola primary element, complemented with wild strawberry, uva fragola and minerals. Wonderfully balanced and deftly integrated. Fine sweet tannins. I think this wine will nuance and build over time, but I can't imagine waiting that long. Delicious.

****Leoville Barton, Estate, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 2005: I am sure most will think this crazy early to drink this wine and I agree. It was more to set the benchmark as I have invested significantly in this wine and 2005 Bordeaux in general purely on others reviews. So is it worth the hype? You bet! Of course, in its present, hard-as-nails condition this is more about a preview then a full length feature, but it does tantalize. Serious, deep red and black fruit, cedar, graphite, minerals a touch of brier...this wine reminds me of a home run hitter all coiled up awaiting the high fastball. The palate is deep, deep, deep and offers an iron backbone front to back. Endless black fruit and mineral driven to a pronounced but perfectly integrated finish. I will put this to bed for another eight years or so and check in post hibernation. Exciting!

***++Realm, Beckstoffer Tokalon vineyard, Oakville, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: I was introduced to this wine via barrel sample at the Polaner tasting and fell in love. Great purity and focus. Lovely blackberry, cassis, cedar, a touch of black cherry...this wine is just stuffed with flavor. The palate is velvety, with more berry and chocolate covered espresso bean. With air, a slight green pepper element is added, which adds complexity. Lovely, coating, fine and firm on the tail end. A wine to savor and relish. Yum!

***++Cedric Bouchard, Inflorescence, Blanc de noirs "Val Vilaine", champagne, NV: I love Cedric Bouchard champagnes. The Roses de Jeanne is breathtaking. This wine is also delicious. 100% pinot noir with no dosage. Bright, floral, orange blossom notes soar from the glass. This is exubernace vinified. Lovely rose petal, strawberry, challah french toast...a full meal with bubbles. Acids are bright and cutting, from attack to the back of the palate. This is not the typical yeasty, doughy NV champagne we have all just learned to deal with (actually, this wine is from the 2005 vintage but Bouchard does not identify it as such on the label). It is a cut above. Purchased through garagiste, it is a dynamite wine that offers amazing QPR. A must buy.

***Fattoria delle Terraze, Chaos, Le Marche, 2004: I dig the wines made by the crazy Terni family and this fattoria up on Monte Conero. The Planet Waves bottling is wonderful. This is a wine made mostly of rosso montepulciano, with the other half divided up equally 25% syrah and 25% Merlot. It is decidedly new world, though unmistakably montepulciano based. Red berry fruit, Asian spice and herbs drive this excitable wine. The syrah adds blueberry and clove, the merlot a lovely candied violet and the new oak adds mocha, white chocolate and vanilla. Velvet mouth feel and integrated, spicy finish. Very nice, if perhaps a bit too much of a nod to more "international" wine making techniques. But it is from the Marche - and I love it!