Wine Musings Vol#92

****+Wine of Merit: Marcassin, Zio Tony ranch, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2004: Wow! One must stop for a moment and appreciate. I have had other vintages of this wine and not been nearly as impressed. And yet this bottle of 2004 requires a complete rethinking and re-examination. At the same time complex and subtle, this chardonnay speaks to a sophistication and lightness of hand that I do not associate with Helen Turley, or new world chardonnay for that matter. Wonderful, lithe, balanced, frisky, and a sea-salty, lemon-zesty crushed sea shell verve (to balance out the more typical creme brulee notes) that I just loved. Perfectly balanced and structured. Long, mineral, lime-y finish. Just a superb chardonnay. Go figure.

***+Chateau Margui, Coteaux varois, rouge, 2006: A wonderful, spirited wine. A 60/40 syrah/cab mix from provence, this wine reminds me of the Galileo saying, "wine is sunshine held together by water". I can taste provence in there, its sun backed stones, garrigue, red and black currants and berries, the spice market in Aix en provence...delicious. And cheap ($17 a pop, $38 in mag!). Have it with a simple roasted chicken with new potatoes and count the blessings. Great.

***+Medlock Ames, Estate, Sonoma Mountain, merlot, 2003: Medlock Ames knows merlot. This iteration is firm and deep, with excellent plum and black currant, violet, mint, baker's choclate and pepper. Voluminous, with solid structure and good oak presence...never overwhelming. A wine to drink with air, or hold.

***+Jocelyn Lonen Winery, Lonen Reserve, cabernet sauvignon, 2003: Just wonderful. A wine made by the late Joshua Krupp, with fruit sourced from the Krupp's Stagecoach vineyard. Lovely concentration, rich and full...real Stagecoach terroir. Lush, velvety black cherry, mocha, cigar box with touches of fennel seed, earth and ripe plum that makes me think cab franc. Long, fine finish. Yum!

***+Woodward Canyon, Charbonneau vineyards, Walla walla, cabernet sauvignon, 1989: Yummy cab from another era. 12.3% abv, good acid structure, suave, gliding wahington state cab. Aromas of black cherry, dark chocolate, melted licorice, tar and a touch of bbq sauce. Integrated and harmonious front to back. Just a lovely wine to have with some slow cooked short ribs. Ah...the pleasures of food and wine.

Wine Musings Vol#42

Wine of NO MERIT: ??? Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Paulliac, Bordeaux, 1978: This wine was a DQ - at an important celebration - as it was heavily maderized. The cork was in shambles. I publish this only to remind myself and others that buying older vintage wine on the secondary market is very much akin to buying a watch on Canal Street in NYC. Good luck. I bought this watch...er wine...from what I would have thought to be a reputable source. It was crap and had clearly been stored very badly. I promise myself that from now on - unless it is from an estate re-release or from someone like the Rare Wine Company in Sonoma, I am not buying these email list "rare gems" anymore. Harummph!

***+A. Rafanelli, Dry Creek Valley, zinfandel, 2005: Mmmm. I love Raffanelli zins. This wine is big, bright, brassy red raspberry, spice box, cigar tobacco. Yum! The palate is a bit racy but delivers zingy red fruit and white pepper. Firm but integrated finish. Really delicious and a big crowd pleaser. Great example of a Dry Creek zin – which in my opinion are the best ones on earth!

***+Franciscan, Magnificat, Napa Valley, 2004: A bruiser. This is Franciscan’s Bordeaux-like meritage, assembling cabernet, merlot and a dollop of cab franc for a dynamite wine. Deep, brooding, black fruit, tobacco, cassis and sage. Seamless. Big wine with lots of stuffing, it requires a piece or grilled red meat or perhaps some cellaring time to really show its stuff. Firm palate leads to a big, but well integrated and fine finish. A very nice wine at a very decent price point (I think it can be had for around $45). Excellent QPR.

***+Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Paulliac Bordeaux, 1988: Pulled from the cellar for a special occasion. The wine has matured a great deal in the last 5 years. Still sophisticated and black fruit driven, it has thinned just a bit. Typical graphite, cedar, cassis, forest floor and minerals with some coaxing, just not with the endless depth that I associate with this wine. The palate is full and coating as it opens up over the course of our meal – offering more black fruit, minerals and chocolate - in fact the entire wine experience benefits from air. The finish is firm and pleasing. Really, this wine is a winner, it was just so mind boggling last I had it I cannot help but be just a tad disappointed.

***+Galleron, Napa Valley cabernet, 2000: A mixture of Taplin and Morisoli fruit. I love the Morisoli vineyard. This wine does not disappoint – in fact it is magically delicious! Really great right now, the wine throws off serious, spicy red and black berry fruit, clove, cedar and cassis. Mint chocolate. The palate is nicely integrated and offers great balance all the way to the sweet, polished ending. Really dynamite wine.

***Ridge, Geyersville, zinfandel, 2000: I am a huge Geyserville fan. I love the field blend nature of it…and how it ages and grows in complexity. In 2000, the wine was 66% zinfandel, with a large (17%) petite sirah. Given the long growing season, this wine enjoyed great maturity of fruit – and it shows. Rich, opulent red fruit, briar and white pepper fill the glass. It is still very young and vibrant, it has not yet really developed the nuances that older Geyservilles tend to show. The palate is expansive and full, with more red fruit, spice and vanilla. At nearly 15% alcohol it is chewy, though not thick at all. The finish is long and spicy – the 2000 used more new oak (American) than it typically does. Great wine – and in no hurry at all. Drink if you like ‘em brawny or hold.

***Twomey Cellars, Napa Valley merlot, 2003: Lovely and wonderfully approachable. The 2003 vintage was hardly a blockbuster, allowing the wines to develop early. This wine is already open knit and very giving, showing lush plum and red fruit, violet, lavender and milk chocolate. Some nice rose petal nuances. Very pretty and wonderful with a cheese course. The palate is lush and friendly and the tannins are fine, sweet and long. Lavish wine. Delicious.

***Turnbull Wine Cellars, Estate Napa Valley cabernet, 2004: A huge crowd pleaser. Very accessible and yummy – this wine has all of the right elements all brought together in one bottle. Even if a touch soft, the wine sports an excellent fruit profile, tobacco, spice, a smidge of mushroom and mint chocolate to add to the complexity. Maybe a bit of a recipe wine, but yummy nonetheless. The palate is voluptuous, welcoming and coating, the finish fine and sweet, with a touch of espresso bean. It is like the Tom Hanks of wines; not intensely serious…but how can you not like it! Great value at $38. (By the way…if you want to taste the more serious side of the Turnbull estate try the wine Thomas Rivers Brown is making from up there for the Maybach family. Wow!)

***Medlock Ames, Red, Bell Mountain Alexander Valley, 2003: Delish. 50/50 estate cab merlot. Young but open knit and welcoming. Nice supporting structure. Very Sonoma Mountain-driven terroir elements of ripe red fruit, pipe tobacco, truffle, hazelnut chocolate and baking spices. Lush, round and inviting. Yummy!

***R.H. Coutier, Tradition Brut champagne, NV: Lovely for non vintage champagne. Really singular signature of freshly baked apple pie – cinnamon, vanilla, baked apples, baking spices. All the elements are there. An added element of custard-y, candied citrus zest on the brisk finish is a welcome surprise. Nice acids. Very nice indeed!

Wine Musings Vol#41

Wine of Merit: *****Laurel Glen Estate Sonoma Mountain Reserve, cabernet sauvignon, 1990: Just writing the wine notes for this gives me goose bumps. A quick story: Patrick Campbell, the owner and winemaker at Laurel Glen, has only made a few reserves in the history of this storied winery. He has never submitted them for review. For the 1990 he bottled only 300 magnums, which he only sold through his customer list and gave to friends. And he also bottled a handful of Methuselahs – or 6 liter bottles. And he gave me one as a gift (I assisted him with the naming of one of his wines)! And we opened it for Thanksgiving 2007. I will forever be indebted. I have had this wine once before, over 10 years ago. It was truly an amazing and remarkable wine then. Funny thing, I went back to my notes and they were almost identical to the notes I am about to publish. Then, like now, I noted the signature elements that allow for a favorable comparison to the very best that Leoville Las Cases has ever had to offer – indeed Patrick has always made, in my opinion, very Bordelaise wines, with amazing depth, concentration and balance – the elements I most prize. With moderate coaxing, this wine reveals a whole cornucopia of nuances, loamy earth, truffle, deep red fruit, tar, Gaeta olive, melted licorice, baker’s chocolate. Wow. 15 minutes in, the wine is signing and downright youthful (I am sure the large format helped). Sensational. No surprise, this wine is only 12.5% alcohol, not fooling the palate with numbing thickness but instead relying on the natural weight and structure to provide great, indeed voluminous mouth feel, with more fruit, chocolate, olive and minerals. The finish is long and succulent, gaining power over time, youthful and still very strong. I am sure this wine is good for another 5 to 7 years at the least, but is amazing to drink right now. Thank you, Patrick!

****Aubert, Ritchie Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2004: Every bit as good as previously noted. Tonight it is the freshness that strikes me as particularly alluring. Sure, the wine is wonderfully nuanced and complex, sure the viscous oily mouth feel and weight connote a serious effort. Still, with everything this wine has going on, it is fresh and bright, not heavy handed at all. Really special. A delight.

***Medlock Ames, Bell Mountain, Alexander Valley rose, 2006: Different from most rose wines which start fresh and then degrade over time, this wine is actually getting better with a bit of bottle age. The flavors are integrating and the wine itself is becoming more harmonious…an even greater pleasure to drink. As noted, a wonderful food fine – I had this with some sushi and a groovy “Caribbean Roll” - spicy tuna, avocado and fried banana and walnut on top. Lovely.

***Clos Pegase, Hommage Artist Series, Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon, 1993: I am a sucker for Artist series labels. Mouton, Kenwood and yes Clos Pegase. While the latter two will never be confused for the former, the labels are beautiful and the wines are expertly crafted – and well worth purchasing. This wine has softened substantially since release but is absolutely not over the hill. In fact some mild coaxing releases lovely, nuanced red fruit, plum, cardamom and Asian spice from the glass. The palate has thinned slightly – offering red fruit, licorice root and nutmeg - but there is no drop off front to back and the finish is resolved but fine and very pleasant. A great wine to have with a yummy herbed soft cheese or a nice roasted bird. Delicious.

*++Deloach, RRV, chardonnay, 2004: This winery has gone through quite a bit of transformation. Initially quirky and making handcrafted wines (some very good some not) the winery was sold by the founders to Big Vino in 2003. Recently Greg LaFolette, he of Flowers and Tandem fame, has been making the wine. While not something to search out (the pinot is in fact something to avoid), the chardonnay is not all that bad –in a Costco wine around $12 kind of way. Not overblown, it is pleasant and well balanced. Hibiscus, pear and Meyer lemon. Not super concentrated…light on the palate but not thin. Finish shows some spice and more citrus. A wine that, if they were serving it at a Bar Mitvah, I would happily drink.

*+Rutz Cellars, Dutton Ranch, RRV pinot noir, 1993: I believe this was a very early attempt by the folks at Rutz…I can only hope the winemaking has improved. The issue with this wine is not that it has aged poorly – in fact my recollection of this wine on release is that it has actually improved a bit with time. Still, this wine is hot, disjointed and over manufactured. It does offer some nice notes of typical varietal fruit, black cherry liquor, vanilla and green tea. It is unfortunately more than a little over extracted, astringent with way too much oak making for a bitter attack and finish. Not very pleasant, though with air it softens a bit.

Wine Musings Vol#38

Wine of Merit: ****Chateau Gruaud Larose, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 2000: I opened this by mistake, thinking it a 1990. It was a fortuitous mistake. Huge and brawny, this wine and the 86 Barton really are not that dissimilar, though one is the before and the other is the after. This wine makes me think of a bottomless well…black, deep, endless. The nose is surprisingly generous, offering that Gruaud funk, blackberry, briar, tar…great stuff. The structure suggests this wine will reward cellaring for decades. Superlative. You know, it is a pity Bordeaux is costing so much these days…the wines are really worthy and in a completely different class from even the best Cali cabernets.


***++Chateau Leoville Barton, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1986: Ok – let’s get one thing out in the open right from the start…I LOVE well crafted St. Julien wines. So rich, so powerful and yet so nuanced...just wonderful. This wine delivers. Great color and depth. Aromas of blackberry preserves, cassis, nuances of iodine, minerals, forest bottom. Palate initially seems to have thinned a bit, but then opens up to reveal more black fruit, licorice with a full, coating feel. Tannins are still very much present but wonderfully integrated. Righteous.


***+Blackbird Vineyards, Proprietary Red Wine, Oak Knoll, 2004: This is a merlot based wine made by Sarah Gott that has been garnering quite a bit of praise lately. It is, in fact delicious. Not the “new world Pomerol” that they suggest it is – instead I would liken it to old school Matanzas Creek (of which I am a big fan): Deep, blue, red fruit based, great concentration and balance, generous use of new oak. Great notes of black currant, dark chocolate, violets…great stuff. Full, coating mouthfeel, lots of depth right to the finish, sweet, long tannins. Dynamite wine. At $80, not sure if it is a wine I will buy in every vintage…but it does not disappoint.


***+PlumpJack Reserve, Oakville, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: See Husic…sort of. This wine exhibits a bit more balance and nuance, though the base notes are very much the same. I won’t repeat the notes (they really are very similar) other than to say that these are wines that can be had with a nice cheese plate or chocolate dessert and I am sure will really show well. Fun wines that I am glad to drink…but not to cellar.


***DeLille Cellars, Chaluer Estate Blanc, Washington, 2006: A Sauvignon blanc / Semillon mix that blinded I would have guessed white Graves. Really super, fresh lemon zest, slate, mission fig a touch of petrol. With time, more of the barrel fermented Semillion shows up adding toast, almond and vanilla. Bracing acids but not zippy, great mouthfeel…a serious white that is a great food wine. Reminds me a bit of the Kalin Semillion. At $30 a pop it is very much worth seeking out.


***Medlock Ames, Bell Mountain, Alexander Valley, sauvignon blanc, 2006: I had not tried this wine before…and I was blown away! One of a select few that set the standard for California sauvignon blanc (I would place it right up there with Peter Michael Après Midi and Rochioli Estate). Fresh, lithe, bright and energized, this sauvignon blanc has wonderful, sweet lichee, white peach, honeysuckle, vanilla and lavender notes. Not cloying or racy, this has surprising depth and grace for a wine so young, with dynamite, clean minerality from mid palate to finish. Good stuff.

***Husic Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2002: Husic is one of those new-to-the-scene $100 a pop cabernet wineries that have sprouted up all over the place in Napa Valley, as boomers age out of the work force and decide to pursue their life long dream of hob knobbing with Heidi Barrett and Francis Ford Coppola (See Revana, Vineyard 29, etc.). Good by me! In any case, this wine seems to follow the ultra-ripe, extended maceration, high ferment temp, lots of new oak, full throttle strategy that generates big scores among some. It is delicious. Lush, plum and prune Danish, almond paste (hamantashen! How often do you see that in a wine note?) notes. Lots of hazelnut, espresso bean and chocolate, along with cardamom and cigar box. Briar. The mouth feel is lush and velvety and unwinds to offer blackberry preserve and licorice. Finish is round and sweet. I appreciate it, just not really my style.

**++Chasseur, Lorenzo’s vineyard, chardonnay, 2003: Jonesing for a positive Chassuer experience…this wine delivers. Initially coy and even a bit funky, it opens to reveal big, ripe chardonnay fruit, butterscotch and baked pear. Lush, round mouthfeel. Some minerals on the finish with a slight edge of bitterness. More Corton than Mersault, I like this wine but it seems almost one dimensional, so round and buttery is the perfumed nose. Reminds me of a Beringer PR chardonnay – not an ager but good.

Wine Musings Vol#37

Wine of Merit: ***+Capiaux, Chimera, Sonoma County pinot noir, 2004: Lovely. Made by Sean Capiaux, who also makes the O’Shaughnessy wines over in Napa. This wine is made from a few different vineyards including Gary’s vineyard, Pisoni and a few others. Delicious with good weight, depth and seamless integration. Red and blue fruits, minerals, truffle and exotic tea, coupled with a firm but integrated tannic backbone make this a candidate for cellaring. Mouth feel is creamy but not soft, acids help structure but do not make the wine zippy. Oak ads spice but is far from overdone. Nice!

***Medlock Ames Rose, Alexander Valley, 2006: I am a huge Medlock Ames fan. I dig everything they do and the enthusiasm with which they do it…and their wines are delicious. This is no exception. Their 2006 rose (of cabernet and merlot, I think) is bright and fresh. Not overly exuberant, it offers watermelon, rosehip, celery and anise notes. A dynamite food wine, the palate is invigorating with a delicious spicy and long finish. Have it with a piece of cold, leftover grilled chicken and some roasted rosemary new potatoes while watching the Eagles KILL the Lions…it is especially delicious like that (even with those ugly throw backs)!

***75 Wine Company, Amber Knoll vineyard, Lake County , 2004: This is a wine made by the Beckstoffer family, major players in vineyard ownership and management throughout Napa Valley. This wine is, interestingly, not from there but from Lake County, up in Mendocino. I found the wine delicious if fairly simple and straightforward. Big, thick generous notes of black licorice, cassis and black cherry liqueur waft from the glass. The body is medium to heavy weight, with a velvety, layered palate feel. The finish is youthful but round and sweet, with yummy, earthy spice. I understand this wine to go for less than $20 a pop and as such is a steal.

**++Owen Roe, Walla Walla cabernet sauvignon, 2005: Another young, brawny cabernet, this one from the seven hills vineyard up in Washington. I found this wine fun if not very multi dimensional. Thick, roasted black fruit, cardamom, toffee and vanilla. Very much still showing a lot of baby fat, this wine is also lavishly oaked with at the very least a medium plus toast, showing caramel and butter on a sweet, round finish. I would hold this for a year just to see if it grows into all of the flesh that it is showing right now.

**++Chasseur, Sylvia’s, Dutton Vineyard, Sonoma, pinot noir, 1999: I am a huge Chasseur fan. But I have found that Bill Hunter’s wines tend to thin with age – not adding complexity or maintaining structure. This wine is lovely if light bodied. Bright, bing cherry, vanilla, sage and cardamom, intermingled with elements of potpourri edge there way to the rim of the glass. The body shows a touch of thinness in the mid palate where some green wood elements show through. The finish is of medium length and spicy.

Wine Musings Vol#35

Wine of Merit: ****Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape, 1995: The bomb. This wine is so multi-layered and delicious…Paul Avril is a master. The wine is amazingly still a smidge tight, though a bit of swirling shows big notes of menthol, sage, jammy blackberry preserves, licorice root, black pepper and a touch of green olive. More blackberry, grilled meats, a touch of heat on the palate – great depth and concentration. A long, firm, peppery finish. Wow. A meal in a glass. So good. This wine is wonderful now and will be great later. Impressive.

****Diamond Creek, Gravelly Meadow, Diamond Mountain cabernet sauvignon, 1981: A continuing tribute to Al Brounstein. Amazingly youthful and full of energy. The nose is almost flamboyant, with deep red and black fruit, minerals, cassis, some autumnal notes. Really super. The palate is coating and velvety, mouth filling and deep. Perfect integration through to the lively, furry finish. Drink or hold…this wine is going nowhere in a hurry. Great wine. Thanks again, Al.

****Foxen Santa Maria Valley, pinot noir, 2005: Makes me feel like sayin’ Foxy! This is nothing short of a wonderful wine. Laser-like purity and focus of black and Queen Anne cherry fruit, cinnamon, cola and licorice root…it is a right hand upper cut to the jaw (thanks JC!)…it is so forceful and intense. Nothing really nuanced yet about this wine, it is tightly wound but clearly built to be a stately wine with great varietal characteristics, wonderful integration and amazing length. And to think it doesn’t even crack 14% alcohol! I swear I could drink this stuff every night. So exciting! At $30 a pop, it should be illegal.

****Rochioli, Russian River Valley, pinot noir, 2005: This wine is all elegance…which is no surprise as Rochioli is all about elegance in every wine it makes. Creamy, nuanced red fruits, cardamom, rose petal and a touch of earth, this is a stately wine. Deftly balanced and seamlessly integrated, with no drop off at all across the palette, this wine will reward bottle aging with even greater nuance and sophistication. A wine I would be proud to serve on any occasion. Bravo!

***++Chateau Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux 1998: This is a wonderful wine. The nose is ethereal: Expansive. Deep elements of black raspberry, graphite, cedar, minerals, cassis all integrate together to offer a tour de force of what great Bordeaux could offer. The palate is not quite as forthcoming, showing a more mature, resolved signature with more berry fruit, minerals and a slight drop off mid palate. The finish is firm and decisive. Superlative.

***+Medlock Ames Bell Mountain vineyard, Alexander Valley, chardonnay, 2005: I loved this wine. Lithe and lively, this is much more Mersault than new world chard. Laden with minerals, hibiscus and Anjou pear, this wine has no flab. The palette offers more of that delicious, laser focused minerals with bright Meyer lemon zest. Whatever oak is present is restrained and completely integrated. Delicious.

***+Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux Blanc, 2002: I love white Graves. This is a super interesting, complex white Bordeaux. Honey dew, petrol, verbena and key lime all converge to offer a sophisticated signature on the nose. The palate shows more white flowers, clover and cut grass and a caramel / vanilla note that matchers the floral characteristics. Lively if somewhat round, this wine is delicious and worthy of attention all by itself.

***+Shea Vineyard Wine Cellars, Estate vineyard, Willamette Valley pinot noir, 2003: Hard to make bad wine from the Shea vineyard. It has great bones! I have enjoyed this wine in the past and it still presents very youthfully and full of promise. Deep, Willamette red and blackberry compote fruit, with forest floor notes and some nice, wafty church incense. The palette is expansive and almost lush, with big velvety red fruit, chocolate and a touch of rosemary. The finish is long and fine. A winner.

***Col Solare, Columbia Valley, red wine 2001: That crazy Antinori family. They are like truffle pigs when it comes to finding winemaking opportunities. Here they partner with Chateau St. Michelle to make a lovely, smooth talkin’ meritage from Washington state. Mostly cab, merlot and with syrah and malbec thrown in for good measure. As such, the wine is jammy, blackberry and plum flavors, thinning slightly in the mid palate. Lavish oak notes add mocha and vanilla, as well as fine, Asian spice on the finish. A very nice wine to have with some grilled red meat on a warm summer evening.

***Deutz, Blanc de Blanc, champagne, 1998: Yummy and fresh. Fresh, Macintosh apples fill the glass. Yeasty and warm, this wine is delicious, with focused apple and nutmeg notes and baking spice. Delicious and welcoming….this is a warm, welcoming wine that will be a crowd pleaser whenever it is served. Good stuff.

**++Diatom, Clos Pepe, Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay, 2005: I think this is made by Greg Brewer, of Brewer Clifton and Melville fame. While I know these folks do not make shy wines, I was shocked to see that this wine purports to have 15.7% alcohol. Once opened, however, the wine was lively if not crisp, with a sweetness on the nose and palate that suggested residual sugar. Aromas of honeydew, gardenia, and sweet clover honey waft from the glass. The palate is indeed expansive and fleshy, with beechnut and citrus zest but not fat. The finish is long and spicy, showing off some lavish oak notes. Very nice if somewhat of an obvious style.

**+Bjornstad Cellars, Porter Bass vineyard, chardonnay, 2005: Greg Bjornstad has had a hand in some of the better chards and pinots in California, notably DuMol, Kistler, Flowers and Kosta Browne, amongst others. This wine is not really like those. Lean and crisp, this has a young Chablis like lime, green apple and sweet pea nose. The palate instead is zippy and a bit bracing, almost a touch under ripe. The accompanying lemon curd and marzipan notes do not really hold up against the acid, creating a bit of a hole in the middle. The finish has bite and is a touch astringent. All in all, not bad.

Wine Musings LTD: Angwin to Zahtila Day 2

Day two of our Napa trip was not in Napa at all. Instead we spent our time in the Alexander valley, visiting with three wonderful wineries. Alexander valley is becoming a hot spot for dynamite wines and deserves special attention.

Our first stop was at a winery that needs no introduction. The wines of Peter Michael Winery are storied – with no weak links in the offering. Whether we are talking Les Pavots, the various top flight chardonnays or the definitive Apres Midi sauvignon blanc, most of the PMW wines define their categories. Further, they define gracious hospitality. Many thanks to our host Victor Aul for a lovely tour and formal, sit down tasting. If ever the opportunity presents, a visit to PMW should be a focal point of any visit. To the wines:

***++Peter Michael Winery, Après Midi, Sauvignon Blanc, 2005: In my humble opinion, there is no better new world sauvignon blanc. Stunning and rich, possessing varietal qualities of grapefruit, guava and anise but with much more richness and depth than typical. Bright but with a fullness on the palate and a lovely lingering finish. One of the best wines I had all day. Wonderful.

***Peter Michael Winery, La Carriere Estate, Chardonnay, 2005: Lovely. Rich and sophisticated. No surprise that this is very reminiscent of the Aubert chardonnays. Maybe I should say vice versa? Linseed, lemon custard, a touch of sage and candied orange zest on the nose. More of the same with deep minerality and spice on the coating palate. Lovely balance. Long, mineral-y finish. Dynamite.

***+Peter Michael Winery, La Belle Cote Estate, Chardonnay, 2005: A Personal favorite from this chardonnay stable. Brighter, perhaps better suited for aging, this wine reminds me of a dynamite Puligny Montrachet 1st growth. Stately. Bright citrus and orange blossom notes jump from the glass, married to a touch of petrol and a hint of nutmeg. The palate offers more citrus with slate and a touch of vanilla. Lovely and integrated, though a bit more bracing. Good stuff indeed.

***+Peter Michael Winery, Les Pavots, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: This wine surprised me a bit. Deep color to the rim, this young, mountain cab is nonetheless effusive from the glass. Notes of black and red berry fruit, church incense and bramble waft right up and assault the sense. Wow. The palate is a bit thick and unctuous, dare I say fat? It offers more black fruit, tar and bakers chocolate. Further along I am disappointed by a somewhat short finish. The wine tips the scales at over 15% alcohol! Almost seems like too much ripeness. I find this wine a bit over the top and I typically expect more from this wine.

Our second stop was Medlock Ames winery. It is nothing short of groovy. The honesty and enthusiasm that just gushes from Ames Morison, as he talks with you about his winery, cannot help but be contagious. Of course it doesn’t hurt that his wines are wonderful and expertly made. For a small winery, they have all the new doo-dads, with a gravity flow system, fancy crusher de-stemmers and stainless steel tanks, a chai that you might think was at Ch Lafite…the works. The big difference is that everything here is organic – down to the sheep and llama that keep the weeds down and the algae that grows on their pond functioning as fertilizer. I won’t rate the wines as they were from the barrel – but I will say that I bought some finished wines and signed up to receive more. This is a wonderful winery that deserves attention and support. We loved the time we spent there.

Medlock Ames Estate Merlot, 2005 (Barrel Sample): Delicious. Black stone fruit driven, with mocha espresso notes and chalky minerals. New french oak adds some vanilla and baking spices. Great depth on the palate and deftly balanced. I’m a buyer.

Medlock Ames Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 (Barrel Sample): My notes for the cabernet are similar to the merlot, with the addition of cassis fruit notes and a lovely black licorice element. Asian spice. Body is firm and dense, suggesting staying power. Yum.

Our last stop is a favorite: Verite Winery. I have commented on this venue and the wines in the past. They are stand outs from this area. Brian Baker was kind enough not only to meet us at the winery but bring along a bottle of the 2004 Anakota Montana bottling (I think)! All of the Verite wines are outstanding and deserve the accolades they regularly receive.

***++Verite, La Joie, 1998: The wine that started it all for me and still a crowd pleaser. Very bordelaise in style and structure – I would have guessed 1990 Gruaud Larose if pressed. Lovely red and black fruit, herbs and soil elements add complexity and sophistication to this wine. Long and still strong – a wine to savor.

***++Verite La Muse, 1998: Strong out of the gate. Surprisingly firm for a merlot based wine, it still offers up velvety lavender, espresso grind and red fruit notes. The palate offers a molten chocolate essence to accompany the fruit, with grilled meats and herbs. Yum.

**++Verite La Joie, 2000: Perhaps the weakest of the wines presented. Compared to the 01 and 02 versions of this wine, it simply had less stuffing, perhaps even a bit thin mid palate. Black brambly fruit and minerals are offered, if a bit reduced in stature. Finish lingers but does not offer the same level of intensity as the other wines being poured.

***+Verite, La Muse, 2001: Also surprisingly evolved, but still a wonderful mouthful of wine. Chocolate covered berry fruit, grilled meats, a touch of sois bois. Coating and delicious. Long, with firm, drying tannins. Serious.

****Verite La Joie, 2002: A stately wine, if perhaps reserved for cellaring just now. Great depth and harmony of flavor, showing mostly black stone fruit and chalk, pine needles and black licorice. Bottomless. Great Paulliac like in my opinion. Righteous.

****Verite, La Desir, 2002: Lovely and sophisticated. Tar, bramble, smoke and velvety crushed, berry fruit are evoked from this deeply colored, delicious wine. Hard to imagine this improving, but I am sure that it will. Superb integration of new French oak and deft balance. Great now, great later.

**Anakota, Montana, 2004: My first go with this wine. I am not a big fan. A bit over extracted and stewed. Thick licorice flavors and some tar. Almost Amarone like density. Not my cup of tea…or wine.