Showing posts with label Dageneau. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dageneau. Show all posts

Saturday, May 19, 2007

Wine Musings LTD: All Roads Lead to Rhone


From notes taken January, 2007:


All Roads Lead to Rhone:

Following is a brief summary of my tasting notes from our Syrah and Syrah-ish wine tasting held Saturday, January 14th. It was a wonderful event, probably the best wines we have served as a whole at one of these things, and I am appreciative of all those who could attend. Wines were served blind:

Pre-flight wines:

***++Didier Dageneau Silex, 1996: Lovely if unusual. Fully mature, deep yellow hue, lots going on. Dried pineapple, honeyed truffle oil and gooseberry were some of the descriptors being thrown out there. I buy it all. Not your father’s chardonnay. A serious white with great, full mouth feel and generous complexity.

**++Linda Domas Salience, 2005: Hard to believe it is the same grape. Lovely, surprisingly restrained, almost fragile. Great, tropical fruit notes and a light, lithe palate. Wonderful for a hot, summer day and some light food. Yum.

First Flight:

**++Henschke Keyneton, 1986: Mature and very much ready to drink. Bricking at the rim. Red fruit, grilled meats, pepper, some herbs. Firm finish, light mid palate. Very fine.

***Ch. Beaucastel, CNdP, 1988: Also very mature in color and nose, iodine, baked blueberry pie, a little racy on the palate, morer fruit, herbs and asian spices. Very firm on the finish. Yummy!

****Sean Thackery Orion, 1987: Special. Dark concentrated wine. Chocolate, mint, exotic spices, blackberry preserves. Velvety, delicious. Killer Diller.

DQ: Jaboulet, La Chapelle, 1989: Corked. Palate was mature and inviting, with red fruit and evolving complexities as it sat in the glass – but the nose was musty. I have had much better bottles.

Second Flight:

****++Sean Thackery, Orion 1995: Wow! One of the wines of the day, and there were some great wines. Licorice, blackberry, pine needles, anise seed. Great concentration and purity. No drop off at all, though sweet integration and balance. A serious wine.

****Ch Rayas, CNdP Reserve, 1990: A heralded wine. Delicious, animal, raisins, raspberry. Maturer and a bit demure. Nicely integrated. Lovely.

***++Penfolds Bin 920, 1990: Much better than the rep. Mautring, rose petal, red fruit, briar, tar. I liked this wine very much, even in its showier company. A stately wine.

****Jaboulet, La Chapelle, 1995: Served out of order by mistake. Wow. This is more like it. Really wonderful. Huge, black pepper, black fruit, mint and a wonderful lavender note. Big depth, a powerful wine. Firm but integrated all the way through. Great wine.

Third Flight:

****++Sine Qua Non. Against The Wall, 1996: Believe the hype, baby! Jeepers. Tar, violets, insane, huge concentration, blackberry preserves, pepper – amazing. Coating, intense, perfectly integrated. My number 2 wine of the day.

****++Clarendon Hills, Astralis, 1998: From strength to strength. While the SQN was a bit more out there, the Astralis was a bit more reserved…but had all of the same elements, perhaps adding a minerality and depth the SQN did not quite achieve. It will reward further patience, but is tantalizing right now. Hard to rank this below the SQN, perhaps only because of the later wine’s approachability right now. In my opinion, both are 96+ point wines.

***++Ch La Nerthe, CNdP, Cuvee Cadettes, 1994: A bit out of order and in strong company. Still, a lovely wine. CNdP notes of herbs, iodine, red fruit and smoke. Nice minerals, good solid concentration and a firm palate, though of course not the same kind of grip as the other wines of the flight. Super.

***++Chapoutier, La Sizeranne, 1994: Like the La Nerthe, a bit overwhelmed, though it acquitted itself surprisingly well. Delicious, showing great fruit purity, velvety black fruit, depth and minerals. Floral. I loved this wine and thought it very worthy.

Fourth Flight:

All of these wines were huge and really wonderful.

*****Guigal, Cote Rotie, La Landonne, 2001: Wow. Speechless. Great wine. Hard to detract anything at all from it. Animal elements, violets, black pepper. Great depth, great purity, great concentration. Out there for around $200 and a bargain at that price. My wine of the day.

***++Behrens and Hitchcock, Alder Springs Syrah, Hommage to Ed, 2001: Very yummy and approachable. Made in the B&H way. Big, open, velvety, maybe a bit blousy in comparison – still great. Very varietal, with black fruit, smoke, earth, flowers. No mistaking this wine.

****+Penfolds, Grange, 2001: I expected to not get much from this wine – but instead found it of course youthful but still approachable. Big and thick, some greenness from the American oak, spice, great, deep berry fruit. Brooding. Stately –maybe even majestic. A great Australian wine that will mature into a truly great wine experience.

****Ch Beaucastel, 2001: Very worthy. No mistaking this wine either – with its tell tale French herbs, iodine, animal, truffles and great red fruit concentration. I love this wine and cellar beaucastel hoping every vintage comes together like this one. Worth seeking out.

Mystery wine:

***++CUNE, Vine Real Reserva, 1950: Dave guessed Country, region and varietal –which in and of itself is impressive. No one was within 30 years of the vintage. Surprisingly youthful, it boasted mature red fruit, a burgundian earthy complexity, candied orange zest and fruited tea notes. Racy palate, good acids, not deep but consistent and integrated. A dynamite wine.

Saturday, May 12, 2007

Wine Musings Vol#11

From notes taken February, 2006:
Wine of Merit: ****+Didier Dageneau Pur Sang, 1996: Crazy Didier Dageneau. He makes great Loire whites! Calling his wine a Puilly Fume, which I guess it is, is like calling a Ferrari a Fiat (which I guess it is). Anyway, this is a 10 year old Sauvignon Blanc that is fresh, vivid and wonderfully complex. Out of the glass it is all about the freshness, with bright lemongrass, grilled grapefruit and fig. With time the wine unwinds to show more garrigue, the wonderful flint and wet stone of the terroir and even some tobacco. The palate is fresh and lively and deftly balanced to the perfectly integrated finish. Too young still? It boggles the mind. A Doug Polaner repped wine, by the way. Max, how does your brother rep all the best wines? Not for the meek – like $70 a pop. Try his other wine, Silex – it will rock your world (excuse the pun). And your wallet ($100+).

**+Williams Selyem Sonoma Coast, 1996: A bit tired. Maturing color, a bit hazy. Varietal. Ripe red fruit, cinnamon, green tea and cola. The mid palate is just right trending toward thinning. The finish is short and a tinge of green and slightly bitter spice belies the new oak it was barreled in (American?), now that the fruit is not there to support it. I think this might be the first release after Ed and Burt sold to the Millbrook guy. Smoke ‘em if you got ‘em.

Belland, Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot, Clos Pitois 2002: Funny how red chassagne montrachet has become the exception, not the rule. Used to be the other way around. Anyway, from the famed Morgeot (1er cru) vineyard. This wine right now is not forthcoming and reveals only good structure, hinting at varietal fruit elements. I also pick up a green edge, cola and maybe a slight sweet vegetal (beet?) aroma. Maybe it was the beet salad I was eating. :>) I would defer judging this wine til it is ready to have an honest conversation. Seems like it is built for the longer haul, though.

****+Gruaud Larose 1990: Now that’s what I am talking about. Thanks Gary! Mature but big boned cabernet from St. Julien. I love this wine – and love it more every time I have it. Wonderful stone fruit, briar, slate, cassis and tobacco – man, why smoke Cubans when you can drink this stuff. Typical Gruaud animal / leather notes, though I notice they have become less pronounced the more Parker gives them higher scores. Oh well. Perfect balance with more minerals and black fruit and smoke on the palate. Furry finish. Enjoy now or over the next 5+ years for sure. I bought mine on release for $27 a pop at Brewers World, back in the day. Set you back $140 these days.

***Inniskillin Vidal ice wine, 1998: Take off to the great white north! From the Niagara region. Wow! This stuff is so yummy. Seriously mature, honeyed color. Thick, juicy and sweet. The nose is honey, orange blossom, lavender and grilled peaches. Explosive palate, adding tobacco notes, chai and excellent purity of tropical fruit (papaya?). Finish is firm and spicy but never bitter or medicinal. Ageless. Heavier than the Bonny Doon Vin de Glacier (made with Muscat Canelli) and a bit less complex than some of the best Freemark Abbey Edelweins (botrytis Riesling), this is a wine that is fun for the whole family, though not cheap ($50 for a split). It’s a beauty, you hoser!