Wine Musings Vol#79

Wine of Merit: **** Domaine Philippe Delesvaux, Anthologie, Coteaux du Layon, chenin blanc, 1997: Wow. Initially I feared this wine had suffered poor storage and had been oxidized; the cork was brittle and the color a very dark amber. Lucky for us this was not the case and the wine was excellent, if of disconcerting color. Initially the nose was pure black mission fig jam; a touch earthy, ripe, sweet (the wine has 535 gr. of residual sugar!) and deep. With time, the wine added more traditional botrytis nuances...lichee, ripe persimmon, thick clover honey, nectarine, vanilla orchid. The palate was thick and excellent, adding orange marmalade, caramel, biscotti and baking spices,a touch of brandy. Perhaps influenced by the color, a few said it reminded them of a vin santo. The finish was excellent; spicy and seemingly endless. I am sure storage has played some role here but the experience was outstanding.

***++Chateau de Baucastel, Chateau Neuf du Pape, 1994: A lovely wine. Initially offering complex, rustic, barnyard and grilled meat notes, this wine unfurled with time to offer very focused blackberry, herb, licorice root and iron aromas. Further development in the glass offered a floral hint of violet and lavender. The palate was lively, with more black fruit, pepper, minerals and brier. The palate is fine and firm. An excellent bottle.

***++Beringer Private reserve, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1991: The essence of Napa. Just stuffed with wonderful, deep, red and black stone fruit, cassis, cedar and a hint of chalky, wet slate. The palate is deep, concentrated and chewy, surprisingly youthful yet still deftly integrated. The tannins are fine and the finish long. A great ambassador for the area - a wine I would consider a first growth, or at the very least a super second, of the Napa Valley.

***++Chateau Montelena, estate, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1995 (from magnum): Speaking of ambassadors! Here is another wonderful example of what the left coast has to offer. Signature notes of mature plum, chocolate, a hint of soy, black tea and licorice. Vibrant. The palate is downright juicy, vivacious and fun to be around. Great balance. More feminine than the Beringer but not fragile or dainty, this wine is stacked. Just plain old yummy. The mag disappeared in a heartbeat. Drinking great right now.

***++Kongsgaard, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2004: I believe the 2004 vintage of Kongsgaard chards suffers in comparison with the 2003 and 2005. Still very much a worthy wine, it does not show quite the depth and concentration of the other two vintages. That said, this wine is stunning. If a bit demure, it has a stunning mineral focus, accompanied by bright marzipan, Meyer lemon and honeyed kaffir lime notes. the palate is bright and intense, more taught than other vintages, with resounding minerals and a long, Asian spice imbued finish. Great stuff!

***Clos Pegase, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Lovely and surprisingly fresh. Perhaps the first of the "let's take a large fortune and turn it into a small fortune" wineries in the Napa Valley...see Revana, Vineyard 29, Darioush, etc. This wine is nonetheless very legit. Dominated by red fruit, morrels, eucalyptus, tisane and spice, the wine is elegant and expertly crafted. The palate glides, offering good concentration, weight and balance. The finish is fine and medium to long, with spicy oak notes at the tail. Delicious and worth the wait.

***Matanzas Creek, Sonoma, merlot, 1991: I have had some success with older Matanzas Creek merlots, so I had some hopes for the longevity of this wine. It is delicious, if perhaps on the downward slope. Mature plum, blackberry and lavender mix with tertiary bell pepper, garrigue and iodine notes. Hints of mineral, vanilla and violet. The palate is full, receding here and there, with more overripe plum, violet and chocolate. The finish is of medium length and fine. Probably more vibrant and primal in its youth, it is still fun and perhaps more complex now...and very much worth drinking tonight.

A quick P.S.: The ****Aubert, Lauren Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay 2004 continues to be a breath taking, wonderful, amazing chardonnay. My notes from January of last year (Musings Vol#46) remain almost identical this week.

Wine Musings Vol#78

Wine of Merit: ****Leoville Poyferre, estate, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1996: Signing in full voice. Just great, room-filling aromatics. Garrigue, blackberry, nicoise olives, licorice, cassis. Clear-eyed, focused and very much on point. The palate glides. More berries, chocolate, integrated, a touch of clove. Finish is fine and long. A wine to enjoy now or cellar for another 10 years. A pleasure - and probably still a value from that vintage as it was not a huge scoring wine upon release (88 WS, 93 RP).

***+Newton Cellars, Napa Valley, Unfiltered cabernet sauvignon, 1991: Just right. Evolved. Mature red plum fruit, funghi trifolati, grilled fennel, tar. The palate is velvet, more plum and chocolate, coating. Finish is succulent and of middle length. A wine that is giving it all it has right now.

*** Chateau La Nerthe, Chateauneuf du Pape, Blanc, 2004: Love it! Great, zesty white from the sunny part of France. I am crazy for white chateauneuf, especially in ripe vintages. This wine just has wonderful joie de vivre, great concentration and boyancy! Floral, expansive, happy notes of grilled pineapple, clover honey, cardamom, fennel, a touch of lilac or lavender. The palate is full yet firmly structured and the finish long and spicy. Van Gogh is a glass. Bottled sunshine.

***Jocelyn Lonen, Bohn Vineyard, Russian River Valley, sonoma, Reserve chardonnay, 2006: Very nice indeed. I think this represents a good benchamrk for RRV chardonnay; lovely, bright citrus zest, lime blossom, nuances of sweet tropical fruit. A note of bees wax and mild tobacco. The palate is rich, viscous and oily, adding some mineral and marzipan sugar. The finish is spicy and long, a touch of nutmeg. No one would confuse this with a white burg and no one should. A smile.

***Bedell Cellars, Cupola, North Fork Long Island, 1998: I do not profess a great deal of knowledge about Long Island wines. This is a meritage of sorts, representing a typical Bordeaux blend with cabernert, merlot, cab franc, petite verdot and malbec. I have to say...it is delicious! Age has added nice complexity to the nose, with ripe black berry fruit components, a touch of bell pepper and truffle, violets and licorice root. The low alcohol and still bright acids makes this wine a joy to have with food. Perhaps the mid palate could use some stuffing. But for a 10 year old wine you take the mid town tunnel to get to, I was impressed. Well done!

**++Duhart Millon, estate, Paulliac, Bordeaux, 1996: Buoyed by the Poyferre, I struck out for gold again. No such luck. A very decent, perfumed wine, this iteration seems a bit tired. Lovely red and black fruits on the nose, cedar and cassis. A hint of minerals. The palate thins a bit in the middle and the finish is on the short side. Probably a wine to drink up, wistfully thinking about what could have been.

Wine Musings Vol#77

Wine of Merit: ****+Gaja, Sperss, Barolo, nebbiolo, 1995: A masterpiece. A prime example for those that truly appreciated that pre 1996 Gaja quest for purity. In 1996 Gaja decided to forgo the Barolo appellation so that they could "improve"the wine by adding barbera and cabernet. I love those assembled wines but have a special place in my heart for the Barolo. The 1995 is a wonderful example. Deep, ponderous,black cherry liqueur enveloped in dark, bittersweet chocolate as a base note. Higher toned, almost tangy Worcestershire notes (the UK iteration made with malt vinegar, tamarind and molasses) accompany. Fantastic! The palate is still very youthful and a bit angular but delivers plenty of black fruit, minerals, liquorice and the promise of more to come. Monster finish that is somehow still deftly integrated with the rest of the wine. Tour de Force!

***++Shibumi Knoll, Buena Tierra Vineyard, RRV, Sonoma, chardonnay, 2005: Delicious. Evidently this wine got a big score (97pts) by Jim Laube recently and thus has had some talk value. I bought it awhile ago, prior to the write up, along with the wonderful cabernet (Musings vol#49). I don't know that I would offer those kinds of accolades but this sonoma chardonnay is certainly worthy. Not for the meek, this wine is all about thick, oily, linseed and buttered popcorn. Exotic, Asian spices. Candied citrus zest and meringue. Yum! The palate is perhaps not quite as unctuous and layered, though it also features lovely citrus, latte foam and a sense of minerals. The finish integrates nicely. Not Aubert or Kongsgaard complexity, structure or depth, perhaps a level just below. A lovely, low production chard that is no longer a secret. Shibumi? Shattered!

**++Mas de la Deveze, 66, Cotes du Rousillion, grenache, 2004: A romp! Solid and wonderfully artisianal. Good stuffing, red fruit, iron, white pepper, grilled meats, some garrigue. A bit rustic but in a very honest, even earnest, kind of way. Good, youthful exuberance with nice balance and integration. No noticeable presence of new wood. I am almost embarrassed to admit that this is a $8.99 garagiste purchase. A dynamite daily drinker. I understand the 2005 to be even better. Do not hate...celebrate!

**++Domaine Zind Humbrecht, Gueberschwihr, riesling, 2004: Lovely. Not as big and flamboyant as I was lead to believe. Nice, golden delicious apple, anjou pear and nectarine notes. Some clover honey-like sweetness though not overt or distracting. Thick, concentrated and viscous on the palate with a touch of tobacco, slate and a nice mineral finish that dries toward the end. A very nice wine to accompany a spicy Thai dish, or sushi.

Wine Musings Vol#76

Wine of Merit: ****Parusso, Bussia, Barolo, nebbiolo, 2003: Wow. Quite the pugilist. I admit to being a huge fan of Armando Parusso and his wines. They go from wonderful examples of their varietal and region to wines that are downright otherwordly. This is a wonderful example. Black cherry fruit, tar, tobacco, briar, espresso coffee. Violets. Great chewy texture. Full and deep wine. Clearly a wine that can be cellared for a long time. Powerful yet graceful.

****Daniel Rion, 1er cru, "Les Vignes Rondes", Nuits St. Georges, 2002: Really lovely and showing perfectly right now. Mature, red fruit and garrigues notes. Black olive, violets, balanced and integrated palate. Just a gliding sensation on the palate. Fine, perfectly integrated finish. Grace exemplified. A wine I will seek out and cellar.

****Alban Vineyards, estate, Edna Valley, roussane, 2006: Wonderful; a true delight. Great concentration and balance. SQN-esque, actually. Baked apple cobbler with vanilla ice cream notes, nutmeg, hazelnut, cinnamon, lavish. A round, filling mouth feel perfectly integrated to a yummy, citrus finish. Just dynamite. Again, a wine I will seek out and cellar, though I am unsure of the cellaring window here.

***++JJ Prum, Spatlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr, riesling , 2006 ; Just great. The 2006 vintage has gotten lost between the stellar 2005 and 2007, meaning it is most likely easier to find at retail and a buy. Honeysuckle, petrol, grilled peaches, pineapple. Perfect concentration. Long, mineral finish. I could drink this for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

***(*)Vincent Dauvissat, "Le Clos" chablis, 2006: A similar comment to the Prum here in reference to vintage. I found this wine chiseled and a bit austere, as a young Chablis often is. Excellent minerality, linden and lemon pith, bracing acids and tart white Asian pear. Powerful, with telltale, briny crushed oyster shell that I find a central characteristic of many great wines from this region. Firm and most likely a wine that will benefit from years of cellaring. Statuesque.

***+Ca' Marcanda,, Magari, Toscana IGT, 2005: This is a stand by I can always trust...and I thought this was showing very well. Red berry and black stone fruit, floral, spice box, clove, pipe tobacco and chocolate. Velvety and lush. Fine tannins on the finish. Delicious. It has become pricey of late, which is too bad. A lovely example of what used to be a very sensibly priced "Super Tuscan" IGT.

***+Ridge, Lytton Springs, sonoma, zinfandel, 2005: This is really not a zinfandel as much as it is a field blend of zinfandel, grenache, mouvedre and petite syrah. I found it lovely. Harmonious, red and black berry fruit, black pepper, lavender, tagine spices and briar. Wonderful balance. A wine that can age well or be consumed young. I thought it was great.

***Cheval des Andes, Mendoza, malbec, 2005: Made by the folks that make Cheval Blanc in Bordeaux. A very powerful, deep wine. Mostly Malbec with other Bordeaux varietals in the assembly. Perhaps a bit over the top for me. A brute. Clearly in need of cellar time to sort itself out a bit. Wonderful purity. Could be excellent.

Wine Musings Vol#75

Wine of Merit: ***++Gravner, Estate, Friuli Venezia Giulia, ribolla gialla, 2000: I love this wine. Initially demure, with time and air it opens up to reveal that crazy Gravner complexity: All grilled fennel, celery seed, dried apricot, a hint of mandarin orange. Full and generous on the palate with more citrus, honeyed tobacco...yum! An unusual wine that demands your attention. Great stuff.

***++Feudi di San Gregorio, Patrimo, Irpinia Rosso, IGT,Campagnia, 2001: Delicious. Full throttle, this wine is 100% merlot yet never strays far from its southern Italian roots. Lush, flamboyant but still big boned and muscular, it offers ripe plum, licorice and roasted chestnut notes accompanied by espresso macchiato undertones that I just love. Coating on entry, it assaults the palate with staining concentration and grip. The finish is big but not overly so...nicely balanced with the rest of this bigger than life wine. A San Gennaro festival in a glass, complete with fireworks and zeppoli. Fantastico!

***+Fattoria Viticcio, Chianti Classico Riserva, Grieve in Chianti, sangiovese, 2001: Just delicious. Bright, vibrant boysenberry, plum and red currant fruit accompanied by nervy spice box and black pepper undertones. Ample mouth feel, good tannic backbone, long fine finish. Great food wine. The essence of Chanti Classico. At under $30, this wine is a steal.

***+Failla, Keefer Ranch, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, chardonnay, 2003: Drinking great right now. Surprisingly Burgundian. Sharp, mineral, lemon lime zest notes, marzipan, baking spices and linseed. Firm acidity. More minerals, ginger and a key lime custard note on the palate. Medium long, spicy finish. All in all a very nice chardonnay.

***Aston Estate, Experimental Lot, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2004: This wine actually doesn't say Aston Estate on it. I am guessing it was from vines deemed too young to produce a finished wine...thus the experimental nature. Actually, this wine is every bit as finished as the other Aston wines. It has the signature dark, brooding black cherry nose, the forest floor elements, an note of baker's chocolate and white pepper in the background. Palate is coating and full. Finish is firm. Perhaps not quite as polished or sophisticated, it is nonetheless capable.

Wine Musings Vol#74

Wine of Merit: ****Tenuta Guado al Tasso, Bolgheri Superiore, 1997: Wow. This wine is enormous and just bursting at the seams. Dense, deep, concentrated, primal; it seems to me that this is showing none of its 11+ years of age. Laser-focused black berry fruit, spearmint, tar, floral violets and crushed gravel elements make me think new world, or maybe new styled Barolo. The palate mimics these initial impressions. Deep, almost impenetrable, with more black fruit and minerals, coating and firm front to back. Even with much time in the glass this seems to be a wine that will benefit from years if not decades of aging. Wonderful.

***++Castello dei Rampolla, Sammarco, 1997: Really wonderful. Perhaps a touch more mature than the Guado al Tasso, but perfectly balanced and deftly integrated. A similar new world profile of black berry, menthol and minerals, the notes are complemented with some red fruit and an undertone of citrus. The palate is simply integration and balance exemplified. Lovely fruit profile on the coating entry, good firm tannic backbone, great mid palate feel, long fine finish. Just a dynamite wine that, like Guado al Tasso, gets lost a bit in the crowd of wines whose names end in "aia".

***++Argiano, Brunello di Montalcino, sangiovese, 1997: Wow. Quite the tour de force. The complexity and savage nature of this wine would have made me guess St. Estephe if the wine were blinded. Ox blood in hue, smoke, roasted meats, red fruit, mocha, rosemary, truffle, oil cured black olive. Chewy, dense, mouth filling wine with a slight raciness to the mid palate before a firm, mineral finish. Delicious and totally worth it. A meal in a glass.

***Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, 1997: I was introduced to Ornellaia at the Cantina Antinori in Florence with the 1988 vintage and was bowled over. Since then, it has come to be one of poster children of the "Super Tuscan" genre of wines made in the Bolgheri area. And rightfully so, as it is typically breathtaking, vintage in and vintage out. This iteration may have been one of the vintages that propelled Ornellaia past Tignanello and into the spotlight. 11 years later, this wine is showing its maturity, adding complexity and nuance to its initial exuberant expression. Stewed plum, tomato skin, smoke, bacon fat, espresso, soy and mocha create a melange that reminds me of much older cab based wines from California and Bordeaux. The palate is fine and not tired at all, showing more red fruit and chocolate. The finish is fine and resolved...a top wine that has evolved nicely and will reward patience with a fine drinking experience. Lovely.