Wine Musings Vol#71

Wine of Merit: ***++Pahlmeyer Winery, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2006: Another chardonnay that I admire, often from up close. This iteration of Jason Pahlmeyer’s white wine concoction is less corpulent and flattering than I have typically come to expect. High toned citrus blossom, peach nectar, cardamom and Zuppa Inglese. The palate shows structure and focus, bright acids and Asian spice, even as it expands ad envelops. A wine I am happy to welcome to the table each and every time. Super.

***+Aston Estate, Clone 115/667, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2006: Big Ups to Thomas Rivers Brown. I know and love his Rivers Marie pinots. That said I knew this was a new wine from a new vineyard, made for someone other than himself (in this case Schrader). I am pleased to report that it is delicious. True to its Sonoma Coast rootstock, this wine is deep and brooding, but not heavy handed or over extracted in any way. Vibrant? Powerful? You bet. But still balanced, beautifully integrated and true to the varietal. I happen to love the 115 and 667 clones and know them intimately (I make a pinot using that same make up from the Amber Ridge vineyard in the RRV) and was quite pleased to see how each clone contributed in a clear, focused, unmistakable way to create a whole greater than the sum of the parts. The 115 offers lovely, deep, fragrant pinot aromatics of bing cherry, cola, floral tisane and cinnamon stick. The 667 makes up the stuffing, with darker fruit notes, blood orange, smoke, spice and a strong backbone. Generous mouth feel and a fine, tingly, spicy finish. A lovely wine and one that I will cellar with confidence and drink with pleasure. Well done TRB!

***Flowers Winery, estate vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2002: I have quite a bit of heart for what Flowers has accomplished out on Camp Meeting Ridge over the years. The wines are dense and complex, long lived wines that reward cellaring with nuance and added sophistication. This chardonnay follows suit. Lovely, bright citric fruit, tobacco and minerals. A slight autumnal quality. A definite sense of Sonoma Coast terroir. The wine is still taught and toned, showing excellent depth. Full, expansive mid palate and a long, firm finish. Top notch effort.

**++Two Hands Winery, For Love or Money, cane cut semillon, Barossa Valley, 2005: I find Aussie desert wine and French desert wine as comparable as Australian rules football and The Beautiful Game…which is too say almost not at all. One is about brute force and will, the other about grace and art and talent. So it is with this Two Hands semillon, which has been compared by others to a Sauturnes. Favorably. I don’t see it. Yes it possesses botrytis like sweetness, canned peach syrup, lichee, honeysuckle and jasmine. But the flavors and aromas are obvious and cloying, as is the mouth feel. The finish is a bit vague. Not that this is a bad wine; it is not. It is delicious…just delicious in an obvious way. And while it is much less expensive than top notch sauternes (what isn’t?), I think in this case you get what you pay for. A fun romp.

Wine Musings Vol#70

Wine of Merit: ****++Diamond Creek Winery, Gravelly Meadow, Diamond Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1983 : The Grand Daddy. I have a very soft spot in my heart for this vintner, this winery and this vineyard. To drink this wine now, 25 years after harvest, is to realize that ultimately Al Brounstein was a genius, perhaps even a prophet, was right about everything and knew more about how to make great wine than all of his critics will ever know in their combined lifetimes. Fresh as a daisy, more complex than a Stella, as true as the word of G-d, this wine moves me. Wonderful, nuanced elements of freshly butchered fillet of beef, iodine, smoky grilled red pepper, ripe red fruit, warm black lava beach pebbles, chewy licorice root, how this is a new world wine is beyond me. Pressed I would have guessed 90 Montrose! With time in the glass, out rolls the fresh broad leaf cigar tobacco, the note that consistently makes cognoscenti call this wine the Haut Brion of Napa. Full, beautiful, perfectly balanced palate shows more red/black fruit and minerals.
Not worthy – but grateful indeed.

****+Château Ducru Beaucalliou, estate, St. Julien, bordeaux, 1995 : True to form is this Ducru, the “super-est” of all super seconds in my opinion. I always find myself using the term “stately” when describing wine from this estate; this wine has excellent posture, dresses in the best fabrics and has excellent table manners! Brooding dark fruit, cassis, cedar, chalk, wonderful black pepper, violets and stony minerals…give this wine time to unfold itself in the glass and marvel at its layers. The palate is full on, bottomless, still primal but wonderfully balanced and staged. Same goes for the finish. A great wine to drink or hold. Lovely.

****Domaine de Chevalier, estate, Pessac Leognan, bordeaux blanc, 2002: It is true that if I had to be a white wine I would be a grand cru Chablis. That said if somehow Chablis were not available to me, I would be white Bordeaux from Graves with nary a whimper. I just love this wine's complexity, its style, its panache. Bright, aromatic lime blossom, fresh ginger, ripe star fruit (yes, that’s right…star fruit. I also thought it tasted like nothing until I had it in Mexico a few years back. Find it and try it!), honeyed tobacco and an undeniable fresh, ripe Crenshaw melon note all come together just perfectly. A nuance of celery root. Beautiful integration front to back, firm but never biting palate. So fresh! Long finish, with a touch of white pepper and Thai basil. Hard to believe this was $30 at retail. What a steal. Righteous.

****Château Montrose, estate, St. Estephe, bordeaux, 1999 : You know, Montrose is one of those wines. Always alluring, sometimes mind boggling, just the mention heightens the senses and stirs a certain anticipation. Ohhhh…the possibilities; often somewhat wild and savage (when it is at its best), this wine is not quite there yet, though very promising. Still very primal and perhaps even still working off its baby fat, it is magically delicious, beckoning with come hither qualities of ripe plum, fragrant violet and thick, zesty black pepper. The palate flatters…but one senses the muscle hiding beneath. The finish points even more to better days, firm and integrated. Somewhat still one dimensional, I get the sense that this wine will offer even more pleasure and nuance as it continues to age. Yummy now, I believe this holds delights yet to be sampled if one can just avail oneself of the virtue of patience.

Wine Musings Vol#69

Wine of Merit: ***+White Cottage Ranch, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Really I think this is the wine I was hoping for when we popped the cork on the Dunn 1990, perhaps with the added depth that Dunn is so noted for. Lovely. Nicely nuanced black fruit, bramble and licorice root. The fruit retains its White Cottage signature juiciness but has toned down the exuberance a bit. This wine really vindicates owner/winemaker Dennis Johns’ fervent point of view that wines need not be austere upon release to age well…the secret ingredient is balance. By the way, if you ever get a chance to venture out to the area, make an appointment to visit with Dennis. His exubernace is wonderful...and catching. 13 years out and the wine flows front to back with nary a drop out, offering wonderful mountain fruit flavors, integration, great mouth feel and a middle weight, peppery sweet finish that invites you back for more. And I will oblige! Delicious.

***+Aubert, Reuling vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2004: Having recently tried the UV vineyard, I thought it would be opportune to try the other vineyard designate, the Reuling. I find the wines to be similar. Big, powerful pinot noir. Not as abrasive or extracted as many of the recently popular Central Coast offerings (Sea Smoke, Melville) but still more masculine iterations of the varietal. Black cherry liquor, peppermint candy syrup, church incense, all commingle to create a heady mélange. The palate follows suit, mouth filling, a touch vague. And it brings the heat. Finish is powerful as well. I wonder if this will all come around with time…I am currently a skeptic. Candidly I appreciate the style…but it is not really for me.

***Ridge, Jimsomare ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains, cabernet sauvignon, 1994 (ATP): I will admit to not having a lot of success with the ATP program, which ended up being a kind of island of the misfit toys thing that Ridge did (maybe they still do) with small lots of interesting varietals, vineyards and blends. I am happy to report that this wine is one of the exceptions. Even though Draper suggests that this wine was more near term than not, the experience dictates that this is exactly the right time to drink this wine. Perfectly integrated, the wine still boasts lovely, feminine red berry, cassis fruit, spice and a fair touch of American oak. The palate is racy and lively but not overly so and very much a pleasure, perhaps adding a nice touch of minerals. Here again, no thinning in the middle, no drop off at the lively, peppery end. A lovely food wine with roasted rosemary infused poultry and some red potatoes. Very nice indeed.

**++Double Diamond, Bomber X, Lake County, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: As anyone can tell you, I am a huge Thomas Brown fan. That said, this wine is really not made in my style. And I know it is not the fruit, as this is pretty much the same area from which 75 Cellars makes their great QPR cab (see 75 cellars review). This wine is made more in the Plump Jack, Husic style with more extraction, chocolate covered raisin, plum and Asian spice style The palate is lively if a bit racy, the presence of oak pronounced, the finish firm with a touch of green wood right at the end. I know these wines are made by Schrader to offer a low price alternative to his estate wines. And I think many will like this wine very much and find it a bargain. But the 2006 letter just came out with a price increase to $30 a bottle…and I will not be ordering.

Wine Musings Vol#68: Cru Dinner (IV)

Wine of Merit: ****Alois Kracher, TBA #12, Weinlaubenhof, Burgenland, Austria, scheurebe, 1998: Ok…I cannot resist…it is the last flight of the night and given the wine’s considerable heft…this fat lady sings! Wow. If the Huet is light hearted, this wine really is the Viking helmeted, big bosomed diva, powerfully belting out the final aria in full voice. Huge, thick, orange blossom, honeyed tobacco, minerals, canned peaches…so good, so lush, so concentrated – so balanced! - …it is sensory overload and I just love it. I cannot discern any real grape varietal nuances to this…it is simply heavily botrytised dessert wine. And I am glad for it. Dare I say it? What the heck: Schweet.

***+Huet, Le Haut Lieu, Moelleux, Vouvray, chenin blanc, 1947: Much fanfare and anticipation accompanies this wine. I know some who have said it is the best white wine they have ever had the opportunity to taste. In that context I am left second guessing. The wine was in fact lovely. Amber in color, I was particularly impressed by how light hearted this wine was. I mean given the heavy residual sugar (by the way…what makes this wine “sec”? makes no sense to me) I would think this wine would easily tend to the overtly romantic, perhaps even the cloyingly heavy handed. Instead the wine dances and sings, maybe even skates, gliding effortlessly across the palate, while perhaps even humming a tune. But the aromatics were well beyond mature. Burnt sugar, dried white/yellow stone fruit, a slight herbaceous quality…none of this beyond what might have been hoped for. Very nice but lacking the sophistication and elegance one might have presumed a wine of this pedigree should possess. Middling finish. I have a feeling provenance of wines like these is especially important and would expect significant bottle variation. I can imagine this, if perhaps a bit more lively up front, to be an important wine. I should point out that others had this wine in their top 3 wines of the evening, so perhaps I was just fatigued at this point.

***Huet, Le Haut Lieu, Moelleux, Vouvray, chenin blanc, 1921: As serendipity would have it, Roy had a bottle of the 1921 Le Haut Lieu hanging out in the cellar, awaiting just such an occasion! Lucky us! Caramel toffee in color, my notes reflect the 1947…just less so. Perhaps a more pronounced minerality and an interesting smoky, toasted marshmallow and graham cracker sandwich, toasted on a campfire in the outdoors element. A $1000 s’more (without the chocolate)?! A fun experiment and experience…when else will I be able to duplicate this kind of vertical tasting? I think this is where a long evening with 20 bottles is probably paying a disservice to my ability to describe these wines. Still…this wine did not stand out in the flight for reasons other than its age and maturity.

**++Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume, chenin blanc, Loire Valley, 1971: I admit to being a big Quarts de Chaume fan. I enjoy how the folks at Baumard typically balance the sweet, unctuous nature of this wine with the vibrant fruited elements and lively mouth feel. That said, I was a bit let down by this wine. It didn’t really speak to me, or I should say that if it did speak to me I couldn’t make out very much of what it was saying. Typically focused elements of apricot, honeyed peach and petrol were at best a bit fuzzy; I found the wine a bit astringent on the palate and muted on the finish. I am not sure if this just wasn’t a great bottle, if the wine was a bit upstaged by the others in the flight or if 30 some odd years are just too many for a Quarts de Chaume. Pleasant and enjoyable for what it is (an old dessert wine) but not up to the standards other vintages have set.

In the end, I would say that the Jayer burg, the Trimach rieseling and the chablis were my top 3 wines of the evening. Those were followed in a second peleton made up of the Sine Qua Non, the Chinon, the Kracher TBA and the Margaux. What an experience. Thanks to one and all (espcially Roy and the Cru Crew) for making this an event not soon if ever forgotten. FIN.

Wine Musings Vol#67: Cru dinner (III)

Wine of Merit: ****Chateau Margaux, Estate, Margaux, Bordeaux, 1983: A lovely wine that can easily get lost in a crowd if one isn’t attentive. The 1983 is a special Margaux vintage and this wine held its own. Suave, velvety, nuanced, this was a meal-in-a-glass that however must be consumed with the best table manners and white glove service. Red fruit driven, with hints of grilled meat, smoke, cassis, tagine spices and flowers, I was happy to slow down and focus a bit on this lovely, sophisticated prima donna. In reality this wine is more a grand damme, showing its age more than slightly, more full bodied than svelte, perhaps a bit stubborn but still in complete control of its faculties, still perfectly proportioned, silky smooth and still very much demanding of respect and admiration. Delicious and worthy of the accolades.

**+Dunn Vineyards, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1990: Somewhat controversial. Many loved this wine. I found something off about it. It seemed almost dirty to me, as if the filter used when taking it from barrel to glass was not cleaned well. Others were not so concerned – even placing it in the top 5 of the night. Beyond this detraction, I found the wine a touch vegetal, with some good cedar, minerals and brambly mountain fruit that seemed perhaps a bit dried up. The palate was firm and I thought a touch disjointed. Don Rice commented that he thought something was “wrong” with this wine…and I agree. I love Randy Dunn’s wines - I think the 82 Howell Mountain maybe one of the best mountain cabs I have ever had (next to the 74 Mayacamus)…but this one seemed lacking to me. Perhaps I needed to spend more time with it…but I just couldn’t bring myself to do it.

***+Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, Estate, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1982: While I am appreciative of all that Bordeaux has to offer, I am I think most appreciative of St. Julien. And amongst the St. Julien houses, Ducru Beaucaillou somehow seems to have my number. And among the great wines of Ducru, 1982 is the standard. So…I am always happy to crack a bottle of this wine. Solid red and black currant fruit, cassis, cedar, broad leaf tobacco, a touch of loam and spice, this wine has wonderful depth and flavor. Coating and layered upon entry, the palate introduces melted black licorice and an excellent mineral profile. A smidge of a drop off mid palate may be this wines only flaw. The finish is furry and sweet and seems to last longer than a wine made in my high school graduating year has any right to presume. Lovely and a rarity in this day…something you can bank on and trust to perform. Delicious.

Spring Mountain Vineyards, Estate, Spring Mountain district, cabernet sauvignon, 1978: I include this only so as to be thorough. This wine was corked. As is typical, much convo ensued about “how corked” it was…for me corked is corked. I was surprised at how youthful and seemingly vibrant the palate was. Still, this is a DQ in my book. Moving on…

***+Peter Michael Winery, Estate, Les Pavots, Knights Valley, 1997: Les Pavots is a Bordeaux-like blend, mostly cabernet sauvignon, that tends toward high extraction and even higher alcohol content. In this case we are talking 14.8%. I have always found it fairly open knit upon release and have often wondered if it really had any aging potential at all. This wine is super ripe and a bit volatile. Prune danish, baking spices, iodine, kirsch and autumnal forest floor elements, this almost has Amarone-like qualities, which in and of themselves are not off putting…in fact I dig them, though I find the heat distracting. The palate feels at once a bit thin upfront and then fat and vague from the mid palate on…perhaps a wine that is best consumed sooner rather than later. I think that the Sonoma Mountain fruit could probably present a more integrated, balanced picture if the wine was treated more even handedly. As it is it is yummy, but perhaps a bit too manufactured.

Wine Musings Vol#66: The Cru Dinner (II)

Wine of Merit: *****Henri Jayer, Vosne Romanee, Cros Parantoux, 1er Cru, Cote D'Or, 1990: The undisputed wine of the evening and really a benchmark for every bottle of wine I have had to this point. Ever. One quick dip of the nose into the glass pricks the senses, immediately pointing to something ethereal and rare. Burgundian elements of ripe black cherry, rose petal, fresh soil after a light rain, a mixture of freshly ground nutmeg and a touch of Indian spice…a nuance of exotic Mariage Freres fruited white tea...white truffle? With so much to offer upfront, I approached the palate with some trepidation. It does not disappoint. Full but perfectly delineated, one almost rushes past the signature fruit, forest floor, pepper and green tea… buoyed by the otherworldly palate feel and balance. It seems effortless, fresh and serene, somehow reminding me of walking the beaches of Anguilla at nightfall while the ocean layered caressing wave break upon wave break on the white sandy shores. This wine transported me that way. Long, spread out finish that just fans as it leaves its impression on the palate. And perhaps the most amazing thing...It somehow improved with food, the acidity and mouth feel of the wine binding itself to the flavors of the meal to contribute to an even greater high. It was not me who called Burgundy the Cocaine of wines…but I see it. The Grail.

***+Aubert, UV vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2004: The shame of having to be paired with the Jayer wine. Almost a crime. A high school prom queen introduced next to Catherine DeNeuve in her prime. Still, one must appreciate what it has to offer. Deep, lush Sonoma Coast sugar plum and blackberry fruit, floral violet, black cherry liquor and necco wafer sweetness, a touch of pine needle and forest floor, this wine is made in much more of the now very popular Robert Parker-esque pinot noir style. But while it skates dangerously close, it restrains itself from crossing that pinot-becomes-syrah edge that many Sonoma and Central coast pinots dash right over. I would describe the palate as rubenesque – full, rich and generous, tending toward fleshy, with more of the black cherry and baker’s spiciness, complemented by a small, lingering heat wave as the finish retreats off the tongue. I believe Robert Parker called this wine prodigious…and I will give it that. Similar to the Marcassin, a wine to appreciate if not enjoy. I brought this wine to the dinner and candidly felt punked by the Jayer inclusion…though, as Leopardi once put it – “…il naufragar mi e dolce in questo mare” (…being shipwrecked in this sea is sweet to me).

***+Charles Jouget, Clos de la dioterie, Chinon, 1990: I just loved this quixotic, wonderfully ebullient chinon. Not that it had bubbles…but it had energy and panache! Bright, effusive briny, green olive jumps from the glass. It is so fresh and focused. Under ripe blueberries, fresh sage, maybe a touch of cigar smoke and minerals…super interesting. The palate flows like a brook; light to medium weight, intense and vivacious. Good sap and a lovely if surprising black cherry sweetness mid palate, accompanied by more pronounced violet/lavender that reminded me of that C Howard violet gum that you don’t see anymore. What a great expression of Cabernet Franc. Terrific.

****Sine Qua Non, In Flagrante, Central Coast, syrah, 2000: Another amazing wine. I love all of the SQN wines…and I loved this one too. Deep, almost bottomless expression of black fruit, licorice root, Malabar pepper, shoe polish and wet slate pour from the glass. The co-fermented viognier and very healthy dose of new oak contribute wonderful floral and vanillin nuances. Nothing shy here, this wine is a colossus…but I would venture the friendly giant sort. I admit that this syrah may lack the deft balance and touch of an Eric Texier wine, but I honestly don’t think that is what we are going for here. Not to say this wine is not at once silky and exuberant, stuffed but still wonderfully integrated, muscular but well proportioned…in my opinion it is all of those things. It is just that this wine is made to be a romp, a tussle and not a ballroom dance. I mean, just look at the label! Great juice that must be appreciated and yes enjoyed for the flight of fancy it is. I will buy as much as they (Robb) send my way and be grateful for it. Perhaps not quite as good (meaning polished, integrated and nuanced) as the 1996 Against the Wall, but a signature wine nonetheless.