Wine Musings Vol#57

Wine of Merit: ****++Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia, Bolgheri, rosso, 1988: A classic to be savored. Wonderful. Many have considered the 1985 Sassicaia to be one of the best Italian wines ever made…I have always thought the 1988 to be just as good if not even a better wine. Mature color, bricking around the rim. Initial nose of chocolate, raisins, mature plums and soy sauce. With time this wine opens and becomes more vibrant and expressive. Perfectly ripe blackberries, grilled game, a touch of garrigue and lavender, wonderful minerals, espresso, sooo…Italian. The wine, in my opinion, defines the “Super” in Super Tuscan. Velvety, fine, enveloping palate, seamless, perfectly resolved, lingering finish. I do not believe it is getting better per se, but is definitely riding a high. Superb.

****Barnett Vineyards, Rattlesnake Hill Vineyard, Spring Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Big, bold and beautiful! I have had bottles of this wine that seemed more advanced. This one seems youthful, sinewy and vibrant. Big, black and blue fruit. Cassis, mint/eucalyptus, smoke, vahlrona chocolate. Very, very deep. A big mouthful of wine, it is coating and furry front to back. Long, spicy, mineral finish. Black Malabar pepper. Wonderful!

***+Cedric Bouchard, Roses de Jeanne, Blanc de Noirs, Champagne, non vintage: Wow. Really lovely, bright exuberant sparkler. Ebullient mousse, fine bead, great nose of key lime, green apple, watermelon and ginger. Orange blossom. Brioche. Very vinous. Bracing, full and fresh on the palate. More citrus and strawberry fruit. Wonderful balance and integration start to finish. Just brilliant!

***Kathryn Kennedy, Estate Vineyard, Santa Cruz, cabernet sauvignon, 1992: Interesting and over all very nice. This winery has always marched to the beat of a different drummer. As such, it is no surprise that the notes on this wine are unique: bright pomegranate/rhubarb, tagine-stewed meats, exotic, Indian spices, moka harar coffee. Palate coating and at the same time a bit racy, blind I would not have guessed California cabernet (and it is 100% cab). Finish is silky and integrated. Delicious both for its unique signature and for its wide, open style.

**+Louis M. Martini, Monte Rosso vineyard, Sonoma Valley, zinfandel, 1987: A science experiment and…It’s alive! This was a commemorative bottling, celebrating the 100th birthday (1887-1987) of Louis Martini (who passed away in 1974). Honestly, I expected this wine to have passed away as well. And while no one will confuse it with the most recent Turley release, it is worth drinking. Surprisingly bright ruby hue, with bricking on the rim. Somewhat reduced nose of red fruit, rose petals, licorice with tell tale soy, tomato skin and a balsamic quality. Still, surprisingly fresh and clean. Bright palate with more red fruit, chocolate, black pepper, stewed meats. The finish still offers fine, furry tannic structure which finishes with a touch of sweetness. A nice, quaffable, easy going red.

Wine Musings Vol#56

The following represents a broad portfolio of wines all tasted across one afternoon. The theme of the tasting was to ascertain as much as possible how much terroir matters. Said another way, the tasting aimed to test if the now en vogue “international style” was making wines, even great wines, more and more generic regardless of wine growing region. To the wines:

*****Kongsgaard, The Judge, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2005: Once again, guilty as charged. My second favorite wine of the entire tasting…maybe even my first. Amazing intensity, complexity, concentration. Crème Brulee, anise, lemon custard, firm, long, mineral…I assumed this to be the Mersault Charmes simply because I guessed that wine would be superlative to the others in the flight. I buy this wine every vintage and am happy to pay whatever price is being asked. Simply Amazing. Wow.

***Domaine Vincent Dauvissat, La Forest, Premier Cru, Chablis, chardonnay, 2005: I thought this wine got lost a bit in the line up. Bright lemon, white flowers, wet hay, nicely malic, in the glass this developed a somewhat flamboyant sweetness which made me not think Chablis. Very nice.

***+Newton, Unfiltered, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2003: This wine is delicious and typically flamboyant, though perhaps less so when tasted comparatively. Similar notes to the Chablis…bright lemon, minerals, papaya, quite firm and spicy on the palate. Lovely wine.

***++Domaines de Comte Lafon, Mersault Charmes, Premier Cru, chardonnay, 2002: Delicious, if a touch disappointing. I expected this wine to blow me away…it did not. Honestly, it was kind of a diminutive version of the Kongsgaard, all of those things just significantly less so with a concerning and vague thinness mid palate. Some detected a vegetal characteristic or maybe even bret – I did not. Interesting to note this given the focus on terroir. Again, I loved it and thought it a great wine, just nowhere near as great as wine number one.

****Rochioli Vineyards and Winery, West Block, Russian River Valley, pinot noir, 1999: Absolutely wonderful. Deep, complex, fruit driven style, dark, black cherry, green tea, eucalyptus, a touch of barnyard, creamy, velvety palate. Great integration and balance. The sophistication made me think French, the fruit driven style French wannabe. Certainly a lack of the typical “cherry cola” RRV signature made me think anything but Rochioli. I guessed Marcassin. Wrong. A dynamite wine and renewed respect for the Rochioli family.

**++Philipe Pacalet, Chambolle Musigny, pinot noir, 2004: A quirky wine. Initially driven by tell tale whole cluster fermentation nuances like clove, cinnamon and vivid bing cherry, the wine evolved ultimately to be a dead ringer for Campari! Intense, blood orange and dried orange peel notes. With candied ginger and provencal herbs. Many found this wine unappealing. I enjoyed it for its quirkiness and would happily drink more of it. I would not, however, consider it a “serious” wine. Pacelet makes a point of his “biodynamic” farming methods and uses many of the “international style” vinification techniques. Interesting if not compelling.

**+Marcassin, Marcassin vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2003: Great label! This is my first Macassin pinot (thank you Barry) so I had no palate memory to go with. I assumed this would be a mind boggling wine experience, given the write ups from others. Instead I found the wine a bit thick and somewhat tired. Lovely notes of peppermint candy, sour cherry, black cherry liqueur and briar on the nose, the palate is creamy but a bit obvious, thick with alcohol and one dimensional. The style is lost on me.

****++Domaine Robert Arnoux, Echezeaux, Gran Cru, pinot noir, 2002: I thought this wine was just killer! Deep, complex, beautifully integrated, nuanced with touches of camphor and barnyard, young and beautiful (au pair-esque states J.C.!). Very firm, coating, minerals and white pepper on the mid palate with dark cherry fruit, tannins that still are beautifully integrated across the palate. Wonderful. I found this wine clearly from Burgundy…in all of the positive, great ways that makes Burgundy the cocaine of wines – expensive and worth it. This wine is around at $150…and compared to the Marcassin clearly a steal. My third favorite wine of the tasting.

*****Clarendon Hills, Hickenbotham vineyard, McLaren Vale, cabernet sauvignon, 2002: Amazing in every way. Mind blowing intensity. Powerful and yet nuanced and complex. I immediately thought Montrose…and then, with the deep, velvety palate Redigaffi. Blackberry jam, lavender, black olive tapenade, sauvage, tar. Wow. Palate coating, maybe staining but furry tannins and never out of whack. A wine worth searching for and coveting. Surprising in a very good way. Gary saw through to the provenance of this wine stating that it hinted of “new world vulgarity”. I don’t know what that means but I love it! My favorite wine of the tasting – and again available at a VERY reasonable $62 a pop if you look for it. I love these treasure hunts!

****Tua Rita, Redigaffi, IGT, Toscana, merlot, 2002: Another lovely, very special wine. Even though this wine is 100% merlot, it was not an obvious stand out amongst these wines. In fact, its signature was very cabernet like: cedar, licorice, mint, some chocolate and lavender. With time, the wine did show its telltale Vienna roasted espresso and lovely, floral red fruit and mineral notes but not right away (and these wines were decanted 3 hours in advance). The palate shows young, vibrant staining intensity. I loved this wine but would never have guessed Italian Merlot. Delicious.

****++Chateau Montrose, Estate vineyard, St. Estephe, Bordeaux, 2003: A much heralded wine. After the Clarendon Hills, my second favorite wine of the flight. It is a beast. “Ti-Tanic” exclaims R.F! Intense, brooding, mocha, black olive, grilled meats, oily and coating palate, loooong and intense on the finish. The only reason this was not my absolute fave was because I somehow think of Montrose as even more savage, more raw than this wine presents itself as being. I love Montrose and cellar it in pretty much every vintage and this one is among the best…but I would not put it in the same company as the 1990, another parker 100 point wine. Still…Wow.

****Pahlmeyer Winery, Proprietary Red, California, 2002: 75% cabernet, 22% merlot, made from a whole cornucopia of the best vineyards across Napa and Sonoma. Wonderful. “Purple-icious” (F.C.). Heady, fresh, juicy, fruit driven. Blueberry, baking spices, chocolate, cassis. Vibrant and still very primal. The immensity of the fruit made me think Aussie. Perhaps this wine is the one that most typifies what I think of as the divergence of new world vs. old world styles. Yummy without pretension.

****Eric Texier, Vielle Vigne, Cote Rotie, syrah, 2001: I have posted on this several times and thus will not go into too much detail. This wine sings. It is elegant but not fragile, sophisticated, nuanced…burgundian without losing any of its varietal nature. Balanced, complex, really second only to the Guigal La las in my opinion…fabulous.

**+Molly Dooker, Carnival of Love, McLaren Vale, syrah, 2005: Almost unfair to put this in the same flight as the Texier as the later magnifies every flaw in this wine. Lavishly oaked (I sense American oak), milky, fat, gigantic berry fruit, this wine is a cartoon. And while I am a huge fan of cartoons like Family Guy and Samurai Jack, this has none of those cartoons’ wit or whimsy. Still, I suppose fun to drink. Best thing about this wine is the label. I consider this proof positive of a serious flaw in Robert Parker’s ability to score wines correctly.

**++Cayuse, Cailloux vineyard, Walla Walla, syrah, 2005: Having read a great deal about Washington syrah being the next Cote Rotie, I expected much from this wine. While not bad, it really reflected just another new world syrah. Here again, whole cluster fermentation drives a clove, cinnamon, black berry signature, with vanilla and spice from the oak and a thick, pronounced palate feel from high extraction and alcohol. Very nice to drink, palate coating…but no one will mistake this for La Chapelle.

***Pax, Cuvee Christine, Russian River Valley, syrah, 2004: I expected the Cayuse signature from the Pax, but this is showing better than in the past. Still palate staining and over the top, it shows better integration even if hung on a massive frame. Not bad all in all. It is a wine I cellared out of curiosity and while it is worthy of appreciation it will not be replaced in kind.

****+Weinlaubenhof Alois Kracher, Trokenbeerenausele, Noble Wine No.12, Burgenland, Austria, 1995: Wow! This is a gorgeous wine. Not made in every vintage, this number 12, with its 200+ g/l of residual sugar and its 12 percent alcohol is much more Hungarian Tokai than it is French sauternes. Made from 4 or 5 varietals that I can’t even pronounce, let alone spell. Elegant, perfumed, laden with white and yellow fruits, amazingly concentrated yet vibrant…this really is gorgeous. Honestly, I dabbed a few drops behind each ear and put on my best come hither look for Amy…it didn’t work but it wasn’t the wine’s fault either. Very special. A fitting testament to a very special winemaker nee alchemist that we will all miss.

**+Chateau Climens, Estate, Premier Cru, Sauternes-Barsac, 1988: Sauternes is funny. The truly great ones transcend almost anything else you can drink. The rest leave you flat and unimpressed. This wine is nice but more the later than the former. Reticent nose of clover honey, full, velvety mouthfeel, perhaps a nuance of lavender, coating…Very nice but not special.

***Sine Qua Non, Mr. K The Noble Man, chardonnay, 2001: This wine is made in celebration of the aforementioned Alois Kracher, playing off of the Noble Wine name of the number12. What a great wine to include in this flight. Honestly, I expected the world given its price and my love for all things SQN. As such it disappointed a touch. Very nice, even delicious, it was no Kracher TBA. A touch flat, also honeyed, minerals and white flowers, an unfortunate slight bitter edge to the finish…I would gladly have more but will not be in search of it at the hefty prices that it conjures up. Another question mark in RP’s critical abilities…

***++Francois Pinon, “La Goutte D’Or”, Vouvray, chenin blanc, 1990: Lovely, white fruit driven and refreshing. Plenty of RS, this wine is still very much youthful and vibrant with great acids. Peachy, great minerals, long coating finish. I am constantly amazed at these Loire sweet whites. Their longevity, their quality, the freshness…why these wines are not as sought after as the average, flabby sauternes is beyond me. Delish!

All in all a great tasting. I loved the Kongsgaard, Arnoux, Rochioli, Clarendon Hills, Montrose, Redigaffi, Texier and the Kracher wines. They were all special in their own ways. In considering this elite subset, many were really not so much endemic of their regions as they were just amazingly well crafted, balanced, integrated wines. So, is terroir important? Given this group, I would say that sense of place clearly can be a very important variable within any wine’s formula for success (especially great wine), though it is hardly a barrier to greatness. And given that I did not hit the 50% mark on guessing the correct wine even in a single blind format – I usually do much better…honest! - perhaps there is some convergence in wine making world-wide that is putting pressure on that variable's importance.

Wine Musings Vol#55

Wine of Merit: ****Castello dei Rampolla, Sammarco, Toscana, Rosso, 1997: A tale of two wines. At first this cab based Italian is decidedly international in style – blind I would have guessed California merlot. Lovely, velvety red fruit, lavender, chocolate…a full coating palate with more yummy red fruit, licorice, chalk and café au lait…just delicious…but somehow a bit of a recipe wine. Amazingly with time, this wine changes completely. Two hours in and this wine introduces strawberry rhubarb, baking spices, soaped saddle leather, a touch racy, great minerality…now that’s Italian! Interesting how the cab works as a back drop – maybe more of a structural support platform - for the two other elements (Merlot and Sangiovese) that are actually very much in the minority in this wine. A real treat!

***++La Spinetta, Pin, Monferrato, Rosso, 1999: Masculine and sophisticated. This is still a very big wine, with I am sure decades of longevity left. It is however also balanced and nicely integrated, and thus wonderful to drink right now. Deep, thick blue fruit, some pine and lots of minerals on the brooding nose, this wine exhibits predominantly Nebbiolo characteristics up front. Palate coating, firmly tannic and evidencing integrated medium toast new French oak, the body is almost more Bordeaux than traditional Piemontese. With time, the Nebbiolo surrenders to at least an integrated element of the Barbera, introducing more traditional Italian red fruit and smoke. An extremely well crafted wine that I will continue to cellar with enthusiasm – and at under $50 an amazing buy.

***+Talty, Talty Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley, zinfandel, 2004: Talty is tasty! This was a new winery for me – and a welcomed introduction to be sure. This wine is all about freshness – one whiff and I can close my eyes and be transported directly to the Dry Creek, barrel sampling at a number of my favorite wineries up on Dry Creek Road. Very, very berry driven, this wine is laden with fresh fruit, herbs and minerals and packs a wallop of black pepper to go with (I understand there is a decent dose of Petite Sirah in here – I can taste it). Not overripe or hot at all, it is really about the freshness and a very light hand in the winemaking process. While my zin collection has dwindled down to a select few producers (Doug Nalle being chief among them) – this Talty wine gives me confidence to go back and see what else might be going on out there. Just delicious!

***Matanzas Creek, Sonoma County, merlot, 1990: Wonderful, mature Sonoma merlot. Made back in the day when this label was truly representative of the best merlot made in California. Deep, deep, perfumed black fruits, a touch of soy, spice box and church incense, including a hint of the lavender this estate has become so noted for. Thinning a bit mid palate, it still shows great black/red fruit and liquid minerals. The finish is still surprisingly firm if fine and sweet. Dynamite wine. Give it some air and drink up.

Wine Musings Vol#54

Wine of Merit: ***Covenant, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: While this is not the best wine I have had over the past month, it is very much a wine of merit. Why? Because it aspires to be not only a great kosher for Passover wine, but a great wine period. Sourced from larkmead fruit, this wine cuts no corners. Juicy, ripe black currant fruit-driven style, this wine also exhibits nice cassis, grilled meats and lavender notes. It is lavishly oaked - perhaps a bit too for my palate, bringing with it almond / vanilla notes and baker's spices. The palate is full and coating but also firm with very good length. This young wine should have ample cellar life ahead of it. Of course the $90 a pop asking price pre-supposes at the very least this level of quality - good to see that it delivers. Also wins the all label award!

***++Chateau Ducru Beaucalliou, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1998: I have posted previously on this wine. Notes remain consistent. Dynamite, St. Julien nose of iodine, camphor, herbs, red and black fruit, tobacco. Velvety palate but with plenty of depth and length. A wine to enjoy now decanted or let rest for awhile still. Top Notch.

***+Rivers Marie, Occidental Ridge vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2006: Lovely. Very Sonoma coast. Deep, deep dark black cherry fruit, forest floor, rosemary, mulling spices. A singularly focused element of blood orange that becomes more pronounced as the wine opens. Beautiful balance – a big wine with plenty of backbone. Serious.

***+Chateau D’Yquem, Lur Saluces, Bordeaux, sauternes, 1997: From split. You know, I love sauternes. Less for the wonderful aromatics, like the candied orange rind, white flowers, nutmeg and lichee that this wine shows, than for the oily, viscous, coating, unctuous mouth feel. It just slithers, coats, envelops you…to quote Old School, “Once it hits your lips it’s so good!” This 1997 does not really show the pumped up aromatics of truly great Yquem…but the palate…ohhhhh my! Very nice indeed, with wonderful depth and great length. I don’t think it will ever achieve the other worldliness of the 1976, nor does it have the stuffing of the 2001…but it will do! Drink or Hold.

***Jocelyn Lonen, Sangiacomo vineyard, Sonoma County, chardonnay, 2006: Super. I love Sangiacomo fruit – both chard and merlot. Bright, spicy, lemony, verbena. A bit racy on the palate…good minerals, nice oak integration. Reminds me a lot of the Shafer Red Shoulders Ranch bottling. Long, spicy finish. All in all very nice.

A few abbreviated updates: The ****Eric Texier Cote Rotie VV, 2001 is still simply mind blowing. An amazing, seemingly unending assembly of flavors, all perfectly integrated and balanced. This wine can be had for under $50 a bottle - which to me would seem to be almost criminal and certainly a screaming buy. The ****Aubert, Ritchie vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2004 is quickly becoming my favorite chardonnay in the world. So consistent, so perfumed, so deep…just a wonderful example of great chardonnay. ***Failla, Keefer vineyard, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2005 is also delicious, in a much more understated, malic, slightly more brisk kind of way. More of the Mersault style than the Corton like Aubert. Lovely. The ****Pol Roger, Sir Winston Churchill cuvee, Eperney, champagne, 1990 is a classic. Outstanding example of bottle aged, vintage champagne. Still vibrant and frisky, it shows great citrus and lavender, with yeasty baked apple notes. lemon curd and cardamom. Endless depth, wonderful palate feel, long finish. Superlative – and very much ready to drink now.

Wine Musings: Vol#53 The Thomas Brown Affair

The following wines were all tasted over the course of an evening while dining at the Tribeca Grill. As Monday nights offer a very reasonable, no corkage BYO policy, the restaurant offers the perfect venue for an evening with wine and friends in New York City at a relative bargain. And the service, regardless of BYO, is impeccable. Many thanks to a staff that decanted all 10 wines, served and removed stemware with attention and timeliness and was always extremely polite. I am a frequent diner – and yet wish I dined there more often.

It should be noted that most, nearly all, of the wines were provided by Thomas Rivers Brown, the noted Napa / Sonoma (by way of South Carolina) wine maker. In fact, Thomas is the wine maker for all of these noted wines, thus creating a theme for the evening. Many of the wines have yet even to be released to the public or have published tasting notes available of which I am aware – some even enjoying an inaugural release in the 2005 vintage - making it a real pleasure and special occasion to try them. To the wines (in order of tasting, not by merit):

**++Nicholson Ranch, Cuvee Natalie Reserve, Sonoma Valley, chardonnay, 2005: I am afraid the start was less than auspicious. Clearly made in a very popular style, the cuvee Natalie is a flamboyant, unctuous white wine, fat with lemony, tropical fruit, vanilla and thickly oaked. It unfortunately, to my palate, lacks the depth, complexity and concentration to really pull off this kind of signature (I think Pahlmeyer succeeds here very nicely). It was best described by one taster as “A coconut cream pie served on a slab of oak”. I perhaps would have made it a lemon meringue, coconut cream pie, but otherwise tend to agree. Again, perhaps exaggerated but not a bad wine. Moving on.

****Rivers-Marie, Summa Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir 2006: This wine, by contrast, was my favorite of the evening, though it was not the consensus blue ribbon (in fact I am not sure if it was necessarily even the "best" wine of the evening; just the one I enjoyed drinking the most). Wonderful, fragrant, fresh, perhaps a bit delicate, this wine exudes a deep, feminine rose petal, lavender, orange tisane quality that just lures me in. Clearly very young, I think it will add weight with further bottle time, but it is so hard to stay away from now. The palate is lively but still extremely fine and deep, adding cola, licorice root and pink peppercorn notes from attack all the way through to the lingering, finely grained finish, where the fruit darkens just slightly and adds a forest floor element. Really a great drink.

****GTS, Seaver Family Vineyard, Diamond Mountain, cabernet sauvignon 2005 (release June 2008): Wonderful. The first ever release for this wine (in fact it is not really even yet released), it bodes extremely well for the label. Amy’s favorite wine of the evening. All finesse and balance, this wine wins you over with subtlety and grace. Mostly red fruit driven, it is fairly open knit and nuanced, adding wonderful lavender, plum, forest floor and chocolate. Some noted an alluring black powder, graphite element (I admit to not having ever smelled black powder – this one taster was an ex-marine!) that added to the complexity of the wine. Well oaked, the vanilla is complementary and perfectly integrated, doing what oak is supposed to do, buoying the fruit’s natural elements, not overmatching them. The palate too is extremely inviting, balanced and integrated with more dark fruit, cigar leaf and espresso bean. Finish is long, spicy and sweet. I really enjoyed this wine very much and look forward to drinking more of it as it adds some bottle age.

***+Two Hands, Charlie’s Patch, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: Wow! Hold on to your hats. If you were expecting the smooth, silky, round fruity “Bella’s Garden” shiraz experience you had better regroup! This is a monster of a wine. Massive, deep, laser focused notes of blue and black fruits, menthol, pine and chalk prick up the ears and make you take immediate notice. The palate is a bottomless well lined with granite, deep, deep deep with excellent minerlaity and structure that will make you wince. The finish is almost searing and of ridiculous length, though I have to say this wine has believe it or not softened since I tasted it in barrel. A true vin de garde in the old school, Randy Dunn of the early 80s sense. Given how packed, how stuffed this wine is, I am sure it will reward patience in the cellar. Only caveat is that if this wine lacks anything, it may be balance…perhaps it will sort itself out with time. Again, an inaugural effort.

****Outpost Winery, True Vineyard, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 2005 (release May 2008): Many selected this wine as their wine of the evening. It was a complete unknown to us and we had no expectations when opening it (though I am a huge fan of the Outpost Howell Mountain zinfandels). As it turns out, in many ways it was the belle of the ball, stately, manicured, “complete” as one taster suggested, this wine posseses stature and depth that makes you pause and admire. Wonderful concentration and balance, it is very Bordelaise in its purposefulness and composition (and in its varietal assembly as it turns out - though mostly cab). Still, its purity and focus VERY much belie its Napa Valley roots. Deep, dark, blue black fruits, perfumed violet, subtle tones of briar, amazing minerlaity – like liquid slate, all perfectly integrated, this wine is pure elegance. Wonderful, coating palate deftly balanced from entry to long, steely yet fine, tannic finish. Velvet glove / iron fist? Yup. To think this is the inaugural vintage. What kind of wine can this vineyard make when it has settled in? Word to the wise…get in line now! I have no idea of the price point and honestly care very little: this wine is a buy.

***Maybach Family Vineyards, Materium, Oakville, cabernet sauvignon, 2005 (release May 2008): Finally, a known commodity! The 2004 Maybach was one of my wines of the Polaner Puck building tasting awhile back – and I was quick to secure a few bottles, even at $110 a pop. I will say that the 2005 does not disappoint, though it does not approach the 2004 effort. Like the Seaver, this wine is open and inviting. Perhaps lacking the structure and depth of the Seaver, this may lay a bit flatter, though it does offer yummy flavor and aroma nuances of licorice root, red fruit, smoke, lavender and spice box. The palate is of medium weight and perfectly balanced adding peppery chocolate and a wonderful creamy palate feel ending in fine, sweet tannins. I will drink this wine with great pleasure while await the supposed-to-be mind blowing 2006.

***Diamond Terrace, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 2005 (release June 2008): Interesting that Thomas would select a wine made by a winery on Diamond Mountain, with estate grapes from Diamond Mountain, that was made from Howell mountain fruit. Only 95 cases of this were made. I think it was perhaps my least favorite of the TRB wines, though certainly worthy. It is made in a very heralded, extracted style, that has done very well for wines like Husic and Plump Jack. Raisin-y, stewed plum, chocolaty, almond and baker’s spices waft from the glass. The palate offers more overripe fruit and briar. I cannot but help think of a chocolate, prune Danish (or even better hamantaschen – it is close to Purim!) Amy quips, “This wine is so chocolaty it should come wrapped in foil!” – It is very much a dessert by itself. I am sure Parker will love this Turley-like cab…so if scores matter to you – go out and grab it! While better than any Husic or Plump Jack made, it is still not really my style of cabernet.

****Schrader, ToKalon Beckstoffer vineyard, Oakville, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: Ahhh yes – the Fred Schrader wines. Well, here we are. These wines blew my mind in barrel…and they are better in bottle. Thomas is on a mission with these wines. He has set out to prove just how good the ToKalon Vineyard product is and, even with the vineyards accolades firmly in place, how it can be consistently transformed into something other worldly given the right touch. These wines remind me of the New England Patriots…they show up and simply play their game, regardless of conditions. Good vintage? Tough vintage? Hardly matters – these wines always excel. I guess this is supposed to be the base wine, though there is nothing base about it. A great assembly of soy, red and black currant fruit, cassis, sassy rubbing spices, floral lavender and herbs, this wine has endless, layered depth, amazing purity and wonderful concentration. The palate is voluminous, the wine itself voluptuous and toned at the same time. All kept in perfect balance. Fantastic.

****+Schrader, T-6, ToKalon Beckstoffer vineyard, Oakville, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: The T-6 really echoes all of the “Schrader” Schrader notes, with an even stronger emphasis on the candied violet element within the profile. Perhaps more singularly focused on purity and concentration, this wine is like an Olympic gymnast doing a perfect floor routine – focused, intense, no loose footwork, nothing out of place. Amazing minerality, “a touch of white pepper” was a common comment made. Outstanding.

****Schrader, CCS, ToKalon Beckstoffer vineyard, Oakville, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: For many, this was the wine of the tasting. All of the above notes, with perhaps a rounder, more flamboyant essence to it. I detected an added note of Vienna roasted coffee bean, which added yet more nuance and sophistication to the nose and palate. Still, do not be misled – this wine is about the fruit. Just jam packed, waves and waves of it. Wow. Really a wine you almost surrender all of your sense to. Dynamite in all the ways a wine can be dynamite!

In the end, I think the stated preferences for specific wines said more about the tasters than the wines themselves. All were well made, without exception. If you were more of a purist and appreciated stature, the Outpost must have been very highly rated. A hedonist? The Schrader wines were hard to beat. Looking for a wine you can spoon with after your love affair? The GTS was gentle, deep and warm. All in all…a wonderful tour de force. Thanks Thomas!

Wine Musings: Vol#52

Wine of Merit: ****+Chateau Angelus, Estate, St. Emillion, Bordeaux, 1990: A very special wine. Initially requiring patience, this wine unfolds in layers. Two hours later, velvety aromas of plum, cigar tobacco, grilled meats, sage, lavender and mocha. Palate shows more mature red and black fruits, cardamom, baker’s spices and minerals. Coating. Long, thick, spicy finish. Almost timeless. This and Cheval Blanc are the wines I think of when I drink St. Emillion wines. Superb.

****Chateau Pichon Longueville, Comtesse de Lalande, Estate, Paulliac, Bordeaux, 1990: Quintessential Paulliac. This wine is controversial as it received lower scores at release. Here to, a wine that requires patience at initial pour. 3 hours later and it is still evolving and needs more time. Black and blue fruits, lead pencil (cedar+graphite), forest floor, candied violet, rosemary and chalk. Deep palate, ripe purple fruit with excellent minerality. With time the fruit becomes pronounced on the nose and palate, at once succulent and vibrant. Long, firmly tannic finish. Very much a buy these days (similar to the 83 Mouton awhile back) as it is overshadowed by other vintages and higher scores – but is very worthy (as was found out in the 83 Mouton – try buying it today).

****Kongsgaard, VioRuss, Napa Valley, viognier / roussanne, 2005: Superlative. I decided to open this bottle after tasting the Whetstone viognier. My recollection had been that this wine was significantly better than the Whetstone - could it be? Yes, Virginia, there is a Santa Clause. A completely different wine experience. Expansive, lush but not flabby or vague, this is a wine that I could bathe in happily. Soaring notes of apricot, tangerine, almond and vanilla accompany enveloping scents of Hibiscus and Lilac. More orange zest, marzipan and nutmeg on the deep palate, excellent minerality, long powdered sugar and mulling spice finish. Are you serious? Fantastic!

***++Veuve Cliquot Ponsardin, La Grande Dame, Reims, Champagne, 1990: Superb. Granny Smith apple pie. A wonderful accompanying note of lime and orange blossom. Lemon chiffon on the palate. Great acidity. Aged but not old – this wine has plenty of stuffing. A wonderful way to start a meal.

***++Spottswoode, Estate, St. Helena, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1996: Delicious. Candied nose of blueberries, raspberries, milk chocolate, white flowers. Ripe red fruited palate, good minerals, hazelnut and coffee. Nice, spicy finish. A great wine to have with a chocolate desert! Yummy.

***Chateau Clarke, Listrac Medoc, Bodeaux, 2003: A Wonderful value. Baron Edmund Rothschild’s investment has really paid off. This is a dynamite wine at a great price (under $30). Classic, dense, chewy Bordeaux. Nose of cassis, plum, leather, forest bottom licorice and smoke. Firm, coating palate offers more black fruit, minerals, espresso and chocolate. Long, fine, firm finish. Will continue to evolve with cellaring though it offers plenty of pleasure right now. Hard to beat!

**++Bjornstad, Van der Kamp Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2005: Better. Having been generally disappointed with the Bjornstad wines, this is at least better than average. Possessing the vineyard specific length and grip that Van der Kamp is known for, this wine has good depth and minerality, suggesting it will benefit from some laying down. The nose is also deep, black cherry, cinnamon, forest floor and tea notes. Some spice box. Already throwing a ton of sediment, this feels like a pretty “sauvage” wine that will take on complexity as it ages. Long finish. Good effort.