Wine Musings Vol#38

Wine of Merit: ****Chateau Gruaud Larose, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 2000: I opened this by mistake, thinking it a 1990. It was a fortuitous mistake. Huge and brawny, this wine and the 86 Barton really are not that dissimilar, though one is the before and the other is the after. This wine makes me think of a bottomless well…black, deep, endless. The nose is surprisingly generous, offering that Gruaud funk, blackberry, briar, tar…great stuff. The structure suggests this wine will reward cellaring for decades. Superlative. You know, it is a pity Bordeaux is costing so much these days…the wines are really worthy and in a completely different class from even the best Cali cabernets.


***++Chateau Leoville Barton, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1986: Ok – let’s get one thing out in the open right from the start…I LOVE well crafted St. Julien wines. So rich, so powerful and yet so nuanced...just wonderful. This wine delivers. Great color and depth. Aromas of blackberry preserves, cassis, nuances of iodine, minerals, forest bottom. Palate initially seems to have thinned a bit, but then opens up to reveal more black fruit, licorice with a full, coating feel. Tannins are still very much present but wonderfully integrated. Righteous.


***+Blackbird Vineyards, Proprietary Red Wine, Oak Knoll, 2004: This is a merlot based wine made by Sarah Gott that has been garnering quite a bit of praise lately. It is, in fact delicious. Not the “new world Pomerol” that they suggest it is – instead I would liken it to old school Matanzas Creek (of which I am a big fan): Deep, blue, red fruit based, great concentration and balance, generous use of new oak. Great notes of black currant, dark chocolate, violets…great stuff. Full, coating mouthfeel, lots of depth right to the finish, sweet, long tannins. Dynamite wine. At $80, not sure if it is a wine I will buy in every vintage…but it does not disappoint.


***+PlumpJack Reserve, Oakville, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: See Husic…sort of. This wine exhibits a bit more balance and nuance, though the base notes are very much the same. I won’t repeat the notes (they really are very similar) other than to say that these are wines that can be had with a nice cheese plate or chocolate dessert and I am sure will really show well. Fun wines that I am glad to drink…but not to cellar.


***DeLille Cellars, Chaluer Estate Blanc, Washington, 2006: A Sauvignon blanc / Semillon mix that blinded I would have guessed white Graves. Really super, fresh lemon zest, slate, mission fig a touch of petrol. With time, more of the barrel fermented Semillion shows up adding toast, almond and vanilla. Bracing acids but not zippy, great mouthfeel…a serious white that is a great food wine. Reminds me a bit of the Kalin Semillion. At $30 a pop it is very much worth seeking out.


***Medlock Ames, Bell Mountain, Alexander Valley, sauvignon blanc, 2006: I had not tried this wine before…and I was blown away! One of a select few that set the standard for California sauvignon blanc (I would place it right up there with Peter Michael Après Midi and Rochioli Estate). Fresh, lithe, bright and energized, this sauvignon blanc has wonderful, sweet lichee, white peach, honeysuckle, vanilla and lavender notes. Not cloying or racy, this has surprising depth and grace for a wine so young, with dynamite, clean minerality from mid palate to finish. Good stuff.

***Husic Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2002: Husic is one of those new-to-the-scene $100 a pop cabernet wineries that have sprouted up all over the place in Napa Valley, as boomers age out of the work force and decide to pursue their life long dream of hob knobbing with Heidi Barrett and Francis Ford Coppola (See Revana, Vineyard 29, etc.). Good by me! In any case, this wine seems to follow the ultra-ripe, extended maceration, high ferment temp, lots of new oak, full throttle strategy that generates big scores among some. It is delicious. Lush, plum and prune Danish, almond paste (hamantashen! How often do you see that in a wine note?) notes. Lots of hazelnut, espresso bean and chocolate, along with cardamom and cigar box. Briar. The mouth feel is lush and velvety and unwinds to offer blackberry preserve and licorice. Finish is round and sweet. I appreciate it, just not really my style.

**++Chasseur, Lorenzo’s vineyard, chardonnay, 2003: Jonesing for a positive Chassuer experience…this wine delivers. Initially coy and even a bit funky, it opens to reveal big, ripe chardonnay fruit, butterscotch and baked pear. Lush, round mouthfeel. Some minerals on the finish with a slight edge of bitterness. More Corton than Mersault, I like this wine but it seems almost one dimensional, so round and buttery is the perfumed nose. Reminds me of a Beringer PR chardonnay – not an ager but good.

Wine Musings Vol#37

Wine of Merit: ***+Capiaux, Chimera, Sonoma County pinot noir, 2004: Lovely. Made by Sean Capiaux, who also makes the O’Shaughnessy wines over in Napa. This wine is made from a few different vineyards including Gary’s vineyard, Pisoni and a few others. Delicious with good weight, depth and seamless integration. Red and blue fruits, minerals, truffle and exotic tea, coupled with a firm but integrated tannic backbone make this a candidate for cellaring. Mouth feel is creamy but not soft, acids help structure but do not make the wine zippy. Oak ads spice but is far from overdone. Nice!

***Medlock Ames Rose, Alexander Valley, 2006: I am a huge Medlock Ames fan. I dig everything they do and the enthusiasm with which they do it…and their wines are delicious. This is no exception. Their 2006 rose (of cabernet and merlot, I think) is bright and fresh. Not overly exuberant, it offers watermelon, rosehip, celery and anise notes. A dynamite food wine, the palate is invigorating with a delicious spicy and long finish. Have it with a piece of cold, leftover grilled chicken and some roasted rosemary new potatoes while watching the Eagles KILL the Lions…it is especially delicious like that (even with those ugly throw backs)!

***75 Wine Company, Amber Knoll vineyard, Lake County , 2004: This is a wine made by the Beckstoffer family, major players in vineyard ownership and management throughout Napa Valley. This wine is, interestingly, not from there but from Lake County, up in Mendocino. I found the wine delicious if fairly simple and straightforward. Big, thick generous notes of black licorice, cassis and black cherry liqueur waft from the glass. The body is medium to heavy weight, with a velvety, layered palate feel. The finish is youthful but round and sweet, with yummy, earthy spice. I understand this wine to go for less than $20 a pop and as such is a steal.

**++Owen Roe, Walla Walla cabernet sauvignon, 2005: Another young, brawny cabernet, this one from the seven hills vineyard up in Washington. I found this wine fun if not very multi dimensional. Thick, roasted black fruit, cardamom, toffee and vanilla. Very much still showing a lot of baby fat, this wine is also lavishly oaked with at the very least a medium plus toast, showing caramel and butter on a sweet, round finish. I would hold this for a year just to see if it grows into all of the flesh that it is showing right now.

**++Chasseur, Sylvia’s, Dutton Vineyard, Sonoma, pinot noir, 1999: I am a huge Chasseur fan. But I have found that Bill Hunter’s wines tend to thin with age – not adding complexity or maintaining structure. This wine is lovely if light bodied. Bright, bing cherry, vanilla, sage and cardamom, intermingled with elements of potpourri edge there way to the rim of the glass. The body shows a touch of thinness in the mid palate where some green wood elements show through. The finish is of medium length and spicy.

Wine Musings LTD: Amber Ridge Part 2

Well, things have heated up…literally. Out of cold soak, my Amber Ridge pinot noir was gently warmed up to room temp. Multiple, daily punch downs continue to occur. After a couple of days warming up (when it is also typical for natural yeasts to start the fermentation process) we inoculated with ASM, a yeast that is known to allow for excellent color and an additional spicy note. Yum – we are starting to make wine!

Note the fermentation graph…see how brix goes down as temp goes up. Each day, as we get past zero brix, we taste the juice, looking for depth and intensity of aromas and flavors but also looking for structure imparted by the skins before we press. Here is Chris Nelson, my consulting winemaker, tasting through with me…A day or two more, Chris! We press on the 20th! At that point we will barrel down the free run juice (30% new Francios Freres French oak, MT) and the press wine, inoculate for malo lactic and begin the aging process in earnest. More to come…

Wine Musings LTD: 2007 Amber Ridge Pinot Update

Having mostly focused on the Ghost of Vino Past (older vintages) and the Ghost of Vino Present (current vintages and barrel samples) we now move to our crystal ball and look in on the Ghost of Vino Future (the upcoming vintage)!

As some of you may know, this year I am making a pinot noir from the Amber Ridge vineyard in the Russian River Valley. Other wineries that make pinot from Amber Ridge include Kosta Browne and Siduri – both mid 90 point wines according to the guru Robert Parker. Having recently completed a syrah from White Hawk vineyard in Santa Barbara and a cabernet sauvignon from To Kalon in Napa with some success, I thought it time to experiment with the “heart break grape”. I will therefore give you updates from time to time on how it is progressing. Oh, and the best news; the wine is for sale to friends by the case at my manufacturing cost. First 22 to raise their hands get a case at $300, or $25 a bottle (plus shipping). The release party will be at my house and we will crack great vino with some yummy food and celebrate the day. To the update:

Amber Ridge supports three Dijon clones of pinot noir – clones 115, 667 and 777. Each offers different nuances of taste and structure. It is typical that each will mature at different rates and be picked at different times. Not this year! After a nice fairly text book spring and early summer, the heat began to rise in the RRV in early September. And so did the sugar levels. As it turned out, all three varietals came in on September 4th, at 25 – 26.2 degrees brix. Crops were light but berries looked great (and more importantly tasted great) and skins were thick (images are of actual fruit from this weeks harvest!). My pinot noir lot was expertly sorted with the help of team Selover (my sis and brother-in-law) – who can attest to the “deliciousity” of the fruit. We are on the right track! What will follow will be at least five days of cold soak with daily punch downs before we begin fermentation. This will allow for colors and good flavors to be imparted from the skins to the juice. More updates will come once we warm up from cold soak and start fermenting.

Wine Musings Vol#36

Wine of Merit: ***++Schloss Gobelsburg Urgenstein riesling, Weingut, 2005: Another Austrian Riesling winner, this from the young vines of two grand cru vineyards. This wine could probably use some bottle aging, but is still a pleasure to drink in its youth. Bright, zippy acids accompany focused, delineated tropical fruit, lichee, lemon blossom and freshly mown grass elements. Excellent mineral content. The finish is long and spicy. Dynamite wine from an excellent vintage. A lovely wine for now and for later.

***++Brewer Clifton Blanc des blanc, Santa Maria Valley, 1993 (late disgorged): I am a huge fan of this wine and it continues to surprise and delight. Like an effervescent Corton Charlemagne, this wine offers tapioca, lemon curd and linseed notes, adding honey, waxed fruit and tobacco now. Palette is alive if mellowing, with minerals and more citrus notes. In a world awash with average bubbly, this is a great change up. Stately and yet yummy at the same time. Too good.

***++Flowers Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2002: This on the other hand is a no brainer. Wonderful, youthful, seamless, not over the top but with plenty of stuffing. I tend to dig the cooler climate of the Sonoma Coast for pinot – and Flowers knows Sonoma Coast pinot. Similar in style to some of the better Williams Selyem, this wine is well endowed without ever coming across as heavy or obvious. Great concentration and depth, with just the right amount of oak nuances to accompany the varietal fruit, cola, cream and tea rose notes. Palette coating integrated front to back. Really an easy wine to enjoy and very worthy of compliment. Nice!

***Rochioli Russian River Valley sauvignon blanc, 2005: Righteous. I have always felt that Rochioli and Peter Michael make the quintessential California sauvignon blanc, though they are very different in style. This wine is all about purity and focus. Bright grapefruit and guava notes zap themselves right at you from the glass, with a touch of grassy lavender. The palate is lively and crisp, adding slightly under ripe honey dew, though this vintage does show some vanilla and almond notes from the wood barrels. Quenching and delicious. P.S. A recent tasting of the 2006 showed everything the 2005 had…just more. It adds a plus for a ***+.

***Nicolas Joly, Clos de la Culee de Sarrant, Savennieres, 1985: The Prestige Chenin Blanc bottling from this Loire valley winery, which has the unusual distinction of having its own appellation. This particular vintage represents the first bottling after the winery converted to biodynamic farming (Moooo!). Vibrant and surprisingly youthful color and clarity. Somewhat restrained nose of honey, clover, wet hay and quince. The palate is round and expansive, offering many of the same fruit elements with the addition of a nice mineral note. The finish was silky but beginning to fade. Elegant.

***Bodega R. Lopez Heredia, Vina Tondia, Gran Riserva, Ribera del duero, 1981: I think this is a wine that either really speaks to you – or doesn’t. I mean, I bet the Brits really dig this wine. It is old and nuanced in kind of more dead than alive ways. But I understand it. Faded garnet to the rim, this sage wine offers red, plumy, spicy fruit, saddle leather, panforte and graphite nose, again all ebbing rather than flowing. The palate is completely resolved but again offers some interesting garden vegetable and mature fruit elements to accompany a lovely mineral signature that is seamless front to back. A wine to appreciate if not enjoy…

Wine Musings Vol#35

Wine of Merit: ****Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape, 1995: The bomb. This wine is so multi-layered and delicious…Paul Avril is a master. The wine is amazingly still a smidge tight, though a bit of swirling shows big notes of menthol, sage, jammy blackberry preserves, licorice root, black pepper and a touch of green olive. More blackberry, grilled meats, a touch of heat on the palate – great depth and concentration. A long, firm, peppery finish. Wow. A meal in a glass. So good. This wine is wonderful now and will be great later. Impressive.

****Diamond Creek, Gravelly Meadow, Diamond Mountain cabernet sauvignon, 1981: A continuing tribute to Al Brounstein. Amazingly youthful and full of energy. The nose is almost flamboyant, with deep red and black fruit, minerals, cassis, some autumnal notes. Really super. The palate is coating and velvety, mouth filling and deep. Perfect integration through to the lively, furry finish. Drink or hold…this wine is going nowhere in a hurry. Great wine. Thanks again, Al.

****Foxen Santa Maria Valley, pinot noir, 2005: Makes me feel like sayin’ Foxy! This is nothing short of a wonderful wine. Laser-like purity and focus of black and Queen Anne cherry fruit, cinnamon, cola and licorice root…it is a right hand upper cut to the jaw (thanks JC!)…it is so forceful and intense. Nothing really nuanced yet about this wine, it is tightly wound but clearly built to be a stately wine with great varietal characteristics, wonderful integration and amazing length. And to think it doesn’t even crack 14% alcohol! I swear I could drink this stuff every night. So exciting! At $30 a pop, it should be illegal.

****Rochioli, Russian River Valley, pinot noir, 2005: This wine is all elegance…which is no surprise as Rochioli is all about elegance in every wine it makes. Creamy, nuanced red fruits, cardamom, rose petal and a touch of earth, this is a stately wine. Deftly balanced and seamlessly integrated, with no drop off at all across the palette, this wine will reward bottle aging with even greater nuance and sophistication. A wine I would be proud to serve on any occasion. Bravo!

***++Chateau Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux 1998: This is a wonderful wine. The nose is ethereal: Expansive. Deep elements of black raspberry, graphite, cedar, minerals, cassis all integrate together to offer a tour de force of what great Bordeaux could offer. The palate is not quite as forthcoming, showing a more mature, resolved signature with more berry fruit, minerals and a slight drop off mid palate. The finish is firm and decisive. Superlative.

***+Medlock Ames Bell Mountain vineyard, Alexander Valley, chardonnay, 2005: I loved this wine. Lithe and lively, this is much more Mersault than new world chard. Laden with minerals, hibiscus and Anjou pear, this wine has no flab. The palette offers more of that delicious, laser focused minerals with bright Meyer lemon zest. Whatever oak is present is restrained and completely integrated. Delicious.

***+Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux Blanc, 2002: I love white Graves. This is a super interesting, complex white Bordeaux. Honey dew, petrol, verbena and key lime all converge to offer a sophisticated signature on the nose. The palate shows more white flowers, clover and cut grass and a caramel / vanilla note that matchers the floral characteristics. Lively if somewhat round, this wine is delicious and worthy of attention all by itself.

***+Shea Vineyard Wine Cellars, Estate vineyard, Willamette Valley pinot noir, 2003: Hard to make bad wine from the Shea vineyard. It has great bones! I have enjoyed this wine in the past and it still presents very youthfully and full of promise. Deep, Willamette red and blackberry compote fruit, with forest floor notes and some nice, wafty church incense. The palette is expansive and almost lush, with big velvety red fruit, chocolate and a touch of rosemary. The finish is long and fine. A winner.

***Col Solare, Columbia Valley, red wine 2001: That crazy Antinori family. They are like truffle pigs when it comes to finding winemaking opportunities. Here they partner with Chateau St. Michelle to make a lovely, smooth talkin’ meritage from Washington state. Mostly cab, merlot and with syrah and malbec thrown in for good measure. As such, the wine is jammy, blackberry and plum flavors, thinning slightly in the mid palate. Lavish oak notes add mocha and vanilla, as well as fine, Asian spice on the finish. A very nice wine to have with some grilled red meat on a warm summer evening.

***Deutz, Blanc de Blanc, champagne, 1998: Yummy and fresh. Fresh, Macintosh apples fill the glass. Yeasty and warm, this wine is delicious, with focused apple and nutmeg notes and baking spice. Delicious and welcoming….this is a warm, welcoming wine that will be a crowd pleaser whenever it is served. Good stuff.

**++Diatom, Clos Pepe, Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay, 2005: I think this is made by Greg Brewer, of Brewer Clifton and Melville fame. While I know these folks do not make shy wines, I was shocked to see that this wine purports to have 15.7% alcohol. Once opened, however, the wine was lively if not crisp, with a sweetness on the nose and palate that suggested residual sugar. Aromas of honeydew, gardenia, and sweet clover honey waft from the glass. The palate is indeed expansive and fleshy, with beechnut and citrus zest but not fat. The finish is long and spicy, showing off some lavish oak notes. Very nice if somewhat of an obvious style.

**+Bjornstad Cellars, Porter Bass vineyard, chardonnay, 2005: Greg Bjornstad has had a hand in some of the better chards and pinots in California, notably DuMol, Kistler, Flowers and Kosta Browne, amongst others. This wine is not really like those. Lean and crisp, this has a young Chablis like lime, green apple and sweet pea nose. The palate instead is zippy and a bit bracing, almost a touch under ripe. The accompanying lemon curd and marzipan notes do not really hold up against the acid, creating a bit of a hole in the middle. The finish has bite and is a touch astringent. All in all, not bad.