Wine Musings Vol#35

Wine of Merit: ****Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape, 1995: The bomb. This wine is so multi-layered and delicious…Paul Avril is a master. The wine is amazingly still a smidge tight, though a bit of swirling shows big notes of menthol, sage, jammy blackberry preserves, licorice root, black pepper and a touch of green olive. More blackberry, grilled meats, a touch of heat on the palate – great depth and concentration. A long, firm, peppery finish. Wow. A meal in a glass. So good. This wine is wonderful now and will be great later. Impressive.

****Diamond Creek, Gravelly Meadow, Diamond Mountain cabernet sauvignon, 1981: A continuing tribute to Al Brounstein. Amazingly youthful and full of energy. The nose is almost flamboyant, with deep red and black fruit, minerals, cassis, some autumnal notes. Really super. The palate is coating and velvety, mouth filling and deep. Perfect integration through to the lively, furry finish. Drink or hold…this wine is going nowhere in a hurry. Great wine. Thanks again, Al.

****Foxen Santa Maria Valley, pinot noir, 2005: Makes me feel like sayin’ Foxy! This is nothing short of a wonderful wine. Laser-like purity and focus of black and Queen Anne cherry fruit, cinnamon, cola and licorice root…it is a right hand upper cut to the jaw (thanks JC!)…it is so forceful and intense. Nothing really nuanced yet about this wine, it is tightly wound but clearly built to be a stately wine with great varietal characteristics, wonderful integration and amazing length. And to think it doesn’t even crack 14% alcohol! I swear I could drink this stuff every night. So exciting! At $30 a pop, it should be illegal.

****Rochioli, Russian River Valley, pinot noir, 2005: This wine is all elegance…which is no surprise as Rochioli is all about elegance in every wine it makes. Creamy, nuanced red fruits, cardamom, rose petal and a touch of earth, this is a stately wine. Deftly balanced and seamlessly integrated, with no drop off at all across the palette, this wine will reward bottle aging with even greater nuance and sophistication. A wine I would be proud to serve on any occasion. Bravo!

***++Chateau Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux 1998: This is a wonderful wine. The nose is ethereal: Expansive. Deep elements of black raspberry, graphite, cedar, minerals, cassis all integrate together to offer a tour de force of what great Bordeaux could offer. The palate is not quite as forthcoming, showing a more mature, resolved signature with more berry fruit, minerals and a slight drop off mid palate. The finish is firm and decisive. Superlative.

***+Medlock Ames Bell Mountain vineyard, Alexander Valley, chardonnay, 2005: I loved this wine. Lithe and lively, this is much more Mersault than new world chard. Laden with minerals, hibiscus and Anjou pear, this wine has no flab. The palette offers more of that delicious, laser focused minerals with bright Meyer lemon zest. Whatever oak is present is restrained and completely integrated. Delicious.

***+Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux Blanc, 2002: I love white Graves. This is a super interesting, complex white Bordeaux. Honey dew, petrol, verbena and key lime all converge to offer a sophisticated signature on the nose. The palate shows more white flowers, clover and cut grass and a caramel / vanilla note that matchers the floral characteristics. Lively if somewhat round, this wine is delicious and worthy of attention all by itself.

***+Shea Vineyard Wine Cellars, Estate vineyard, Willamette Valley pinot noir, 2003: Hard to make bad wine from the Shea vineyard. It has great bones! I have enjoyed this wine in the past and it still presents very youthfully and full of promise. Deep, Willamette red and blackberry compote fruit, with forest floor notes and some nice, wafty church incense. The palette is expansive and almost lush, with big velvety red fruit, chocolate and a touch of rosemary. The finish is long and fine. A winner.

***Col Solare, Columbia Valley, red wine 2001: That crazy Antinori family. They are like truffle pigs when it comes to finding winemaking opportunities. Here they partner with Chateau St. Michelle to make a lovely, smooth talkin’ meritage from Washington state. Mostly cab, merlot and with syrah and malbec thrown in for good measure. As such, the wine is jammy, blackberry and plum flavors, thinning slightly in the mid palate. Lavish oak notes add mocha and vanilla, as well as fine, Asian spice on the finish. A very nice wine to have with some grilled red meat on a warm summer evening.

***Deutz, Blanc de Blanc, champagne, 1998: Yummy and fresh. Fresh, Macintosh apples fill the glass. Yeasty and warm, this wine is delicious, with focused apple and nutmeg notes and baking spice. Delicious and welcoming….this is a warm, welcoming wine that will be a crowd pleaser whenever it is served. Good stuff.

**++Diatom, Clos Pepe, Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay, 2005: I think this is made by Greg Brewer, of Brewer Clifton and Melville fame. While I know these folks do not make shy wines, I was shocked to see that this wine purports to have 15.7% alcohol. Once opened, however, the wine was lively if not crisp, with a sweetness on the nose and palate that suggested residual sugar. Aromas of honeydew, gardenia, and sweet clover honey waft from the glass. The palate is indeed expansive and fleshy, with beechnut and citrus zest but not fat. The finish is long and spicy, showing off some lavish oak notes. Very nice if somewhat of an obvious style.

**+Bjornstad Cellars, Porter Bass vineyard, chardonnay, 2005: Greg Bjornstad has had a hand in some of the better chards and pinots in California, notably DuMol, Kistler, Flowers and Kosta Browne, amongst others. This wine is not really like those. Lean and crisp, this has a young Chablis like lime, green apple and sweet pea nose. The palate instead is zippy and a bit bracing, almost a touch under ripe. The accompanying lemon curd and marzipan notes do not really hold up against the acid, creating a bit of a hole in the middle. The finish has bite and is a touch astringent. All in all, not bad.

Wine Musings #34

Wine of Merit: ***++Demeter Zoltan, Tokaji Furmint, 2001: Zoltan Demeter is considered something of a young gun in Tokaj – he accepts no foreign investment and makes wine as he feels it should be made. If this wine is any indication, he has it figured out. This is a late harvest, sauterne styled wine, with wonderful purity, depth and focus. Bright apricot, Lichee nut, honey, mandarin orange…the flavors are focused, crisp vibrant and wonderfully integrated across a lively palate. Really super and a great find. While I do not profess great knowledge of Hungarian wines, this is clearly a winner and bodes well for further exploration!

***+Kalin DD Sonoma pinot noir, 1997: I have tasted this wine before and found it tired. Not so today. Delicious, sophisticated, wonderful varietal notes. The bottle age adds some nuance of a floral tisane to the nose, tree bark, along with pretty, delicate red fruit and spice. The body of the wine is still very much firm and intact and, at least today, this wine is presenting at its peak. Really wonderful and another example of why Kalin makes just superb wines (try their Semillion too – it is unique and wonderful).

***Brogan Cellars Russian River Valley, pinot noir, 2005: Made by Burt Williams daughter Margi. These wines lack the finesse and balance of the WS wines but are delicious none the less. Deep, deep dark, chocolate covered black cherry notes, cola, peppermint…this wine is aggressively fruit forward and extracted for maximum affect. Fat on the palate with a nice round mouth feel and style-y, spicy finish, I would recommend this wine for the shorter to mid term. Nice!

***Alloro Vineyard, Estate, Willamette Valley, pinot noir, 2004: Wow. This is a serious, old school rustic pinot. After so many cherry fruit, cola driven wines this is a stand out for its willingness to be different. More Pommard than RRV, this Willamette wine offers loamy top soil, bay leaf, green olive, tar and grilled meats and lavender along with powerful red fruit notes. Full but maybe a smidge racy on the palate, the finish is firm and has some pucker to it. Huh. A wine to be admired and probably laid done for a bit.

***Orin Swift, The Prisoner, Napa Valley, 2004: This is a wine that makes no bones about what it is up to: This is about fun – a zin cab syrah mix that tastes great. Brambly, black berry fruit. Toned down a bit since release, adding a bit more sophistication and nuance – you can now pick out the minerals, autumn leaves and mint – it is still exuberant and showy. Yummy in the short term – better than I remember it.

**La Jota, Howell Mountain cabernet sauvignon, 1991: Many folks consider La Jota to be kind of a poor man’s Dunn. I have never thought so. While it does often possess that austere structure and black, brambly mountain fruit, I have never found it to have the balance and integration, let alone the depth, of Randy Dunn’s wine. And structure with a lack of balance is a hollow promise. Case in point this 1991. It has aged itself into a crotchety, lean mountain cab. The fruit has matured and developed more redness. The aromas have mellowed, adding some green olive and rosemary notes. The palate has thinned, still showing bramble, pine and chalk in reserve and the finish can still take the enamel off of your teeth. A slightly better than average wine which has matured to just average, even from this excellent vintage.

***++Silver Oak, Alexander Valley cabernet sauvignon, 2000: It has become fashionable to make fun of Silver Oak over recent years, mostly because of the lavish amounts of NAO that it uses and its recipe driven wine making style. Net/net is that this is a delicious wine from an otherwise difficult vintage. Fresh, lively fruit driven style offering excellent concentration and depth with cigar box and toasty vanilla. Not as much of the signature Alexander green olive element that frankly I think makes this wine more interesting than the Napa. More jammy, berry fruit on the palate with some smoke and minerals and yes, lots of mocha / café latte from the new oak. Finish is deep and long. Dynamite wine. I was glad to enjoy it!

***+Molly Dooker, Enchanted Path, Shiraz Cabernet, McLaren Vale, 2005: Made by the folks who until recently brought you Marquis Phillips wines from down under. This is one of those full throttle, high extract wines that Robert Parker gives ridiculous scores to (and wins the all world label contest - great stuff, right?). I cracked it open just to see what the hype was about. All in all, not bad, though not my cup of tea – or should I say prune juice. In fact, the wine has almost a prune juice color – deep, dark and brooding. Super fat and heady (16% alcohol) this wine has aromas of candied black cherry, crème de cassis and yes prune Danish. On the palate there is an even greater sense of baked, candied fruit, almost like a panforte or a shoefly pie kinda thing, though it is remarkably lively for the weight. The finish is strong but fine and sweet as well. Fun wine, not a wine I will be buying by the case.

****Aubert, Ritchie Vineyard chardonnay, RRV, 2004: I have posted on this wine before, but it was drinking so well tonight I thought it deserved the bump. Wonderful intensity and nuanced aromas of buttered popcorn, linseed oil and pineapple. Great complexity on the palate with liquid minerals and marzipan accompanying the fruit and lemon zest. While in the past I would give the nod to the Ramey effort form this vineyard, tonight this wine nudges ahead. If you have it in the cellar, stand it up (it is very cloudy) and then giver ‘er a pour. Good stuff.

Wine Musings Vol#33

Wine of Merit: ***+Phillippe Pacelet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru "La Perrière" 2004: A wine I bought on the recommendation of Crush Wines and Spirits in NYC…a wine store quickly becoming a go to source for great wine. Phillippe Pacalet is I believe more of the new generation in Burgundy wine making – and it is apparent for the good and for the bad in his wine. This bottling has amazing purity and focus. The varietal fruit characteristics are perfect and intense. Dark, lush, black cherry, green tea, spice box and cola notes. A wonderful creaminess to the palate, along with more red fruit and nutmeg / clove spice. Absolutely delicious and a pleasure to drink. It has, however, in my opinion lost its old world charm. Blind I would have guessed RRV by one of the boutique producers. No way is this Burgundy! And yet…A lovely wine that I will drink with pleasure. When I want the noise and the funk…I guess we will always have Ampeau!

***+Flowers Andreen Gale, Sonoma Coast pinot noir, 2001: Elegance with stature. Perfumed, lovely Sonoma coast fruit, deep, red fruit, cola, lavender, pine needles and spearmint. Effusive but perfectly aligned and integrated. Lush, creamy palate with black cherry, nutmeg and cinnamon spice. Loong, menthol finish with laser focused eucalyptus. Best now, right at its peak. Fine indeed.

***+Mount Mary, Lilydale valley, Quintet, 1994: Something of a cult classic, Mount Mary is an insiders wine and considered by many to be the very best wine Down Under has to offer. This wine blew me away on release. It is a typical Bordeaux blend with an Aussie slant. Made back in the day when 13% alcohol was considered more than enough. It has aged quite a bit since then, showing a smidge of thinning at the rim, though the hue is still deep plum. The nose is a total ringer for a mature Sant Julien from a very good if slightly uneven vintage, say 1988. Garrigue, sois bois, some barnyardy elements, blackberry preserve, violets, mint, mature plum, tobacco…it’s all there. Even the grilled bell pepper that makes me think Gruaud Larose. Downright juicy. Palate shows more, juicy fruit, but is a tad thin mid palate and I taste a greenness that suggests American oak. Finish is sweet, spicy and adds some minerals, along with more telltale greenness. Delicious, but I don’t think it will get better with time.

***Failla, Alban Vineyards Viognier, 2005: Ehren Jordan just doesn’t make bad wine. The Alban vineyard is known for producing top quality viognier fruit. This is a dynamite viognier – and I find most new world viognier cloying and obvious. This instead is sophisticated and feminine, offering perfumed, guava, marzipan, honeysuckle and lavender notes that fill the glass, with an underlying hint of slate. The palate is smooth and viscous, with honeyed yellow peach, more minerals and asian spice. Great served cold with herbed cheeses and smoked salmon. If you eat trief, I guess seafood would work.

***Ridge, Dusi Vineyard ATP zinfandel, 1995: Another of the Advance Tasting Program (ATP) wines from ridge. 100% zinfandel. This was a bit of a SNAFU wine when it was made – the intention was to make it a late harvest, 40 degree brix type wine. Instead ripening stalled at 26 degrees brix and so they simply harvested it thinking that it would be a full throttle, in your face, short shelf life zin. So I didn’t hold out much hope. Instead it was actually lovely. Deep, dark, sweet brambly plum fruit, black pepper and some talc dominate the nose. The palate is still lively and round, not as flabby and dried up as the nearly 15 alcohol would have had me believe. Finish is spicy and resolved but not thin. A lucky find.

***Ridge, Lytton Estate ATP zinfandel, 1994: This was meant to be an age-worthy wine – a field blend that includes 100 year old head pruned zin as well as carignane and petite sirah - and it delivered. Bordeaux like complexity offers red berry fruit, cassis and pine needle as well as sois bois. Maturing palate feel is smooth and integrated, nicely balanced. A very nice glass of wine to drink now or hold, though I don’t think it will improve.

***Williams Selyem, Russian River Valley pinot noir, 2000: I think this wine represents the moment in time when Ed and Burt cashed out and left the winery to the Pellegrini folks. As such, I guess they went out with a whimper as opposed to a bang. I suggest this in comparison to WS pinots that I have had in the past. Actually, by itself it is a rather nice wine, especially given the difficult vintage. Very mature with bricking at the rim, the wine has a prune Danish and black cherry liqueur nose, with a nuance of green tea and cinnamon. The palate is lavish and full, maybe even creamy. The finish offers Asian spice, pretty much resolved. Smoke ‘em if you got ‘em.

***Jocelyn Lonen Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon, 2004: A quick update on this wine as I have posted on it recently. It is drinking great. Lush, deep red and black fruit, cassis and chocolate, a touch of truffle…no one will confuse this for a Ch Montrose but everyone should appreciate this for the delicious, palate coating mouthful of wine that it represents. At $35 a pop, this still represents an excellent value. Yum!

Wine Musings Vol#32

Wine of Merit: ***++Ramey, Ritchie Vineyard, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2003: This Ramey guy may be on to something (David Ramey has been the winemaker at some of Cali’s finest including Dominus, Rudd and Matanzas Creek). Certainly, he knows how to source fruit. The Ritchie vineyard does wonderful things with chardonnay and this is no exception. Perfumed, exotic, white flowers, bosc pears, honeysuckle and lavender waft up from the glass. Beautiful palate which includes lemon zest and vanilla, with asian spice. Lovely, integrated finish. Can’t beat it.

***Clos Pegase, Hommage Artist Series Reserve, cabernet sauvignon 1992: “How do you make a small fortune in the wine business?” asks Jan Schrem when queried about his success, “Start with a large fortune and work your way down!” Here is a guy that is clearly passionate about wine – and it shows in his bottlings. This is clearly a mature wine, though the color is a vibrant garnet to the rim. The nose is nuanced, with pomegranate, mint, lavender, sweet clover honey and powdery necco wafers. The palate offers more red fruit, Malabar pepper and asian spices, though it is clearly thinning. The finish is sweet and furry and of medium length. A very pleasant wine that can be enjoyed now.

**+Robert Sinskey, vin gris of pinot noir, 2006: Nice. Bright acids, muted strawberry fruit, lychee nut and pineapple juice notes. Light on the palate, a nuance of provencal herbs, with a nice fruity finish. Not bad!

***Cornerstone Cellars, Howell Mountain Beatty Ranch, Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon, 1991: Mature color, evolved nose of soy, stewed stone fruit, plumy, chocolate covered raisins. Fairly full on the palate, mostly red and some black berry fruit. Integrated and fairly balanced. A wine to drink now. Delicious in the short term.

***+Ramey, Hudson Vineyard chardonnay, 2002: Wow. Lovely, effusive perfumed nose of honeysuckle, citrus and a beautiful lavender note. Full and coating on the palate. Notes of vanilla and more candies citrus. Great, spicy, firm finish. Super classy chard!

***++Barnett Vineyards, Rattlesnake Hill, cabernet sauvignon, 1994: Killer. Mature cab color and nose. Perfumey and sexy. Church incense, cassis, cigar tobacco, black fruit. Velvety, palate coating, black Malabar pepper, blackberry, boysenberry, chocolate and some tar. Really special. Sweet, fine tannins. Drink or hold. Great wine.

Wine Musings LTD: Angwin to Zahtila Day 3

Day 3 was our final day in Napa and we meant to get the most out of it. Our schedule spanned from Atlas Peak to Howell Mountain so there was no dallying!

Our first stop was the brand spankin’ new tasting room of Jocelyn Lonen, at what seemed to be the very Peak of Atlas Peak road. What a view! The lovely and gracious Brandi Jocelyn Pack was there to greet us, give us a tour of the estate and pour some of her beautiful Pritchard Hill cabernets. It is wonderful to see someone who cares so much about making great wine while incorporating it into a life that still centers around friends and family. I encourage anyone going to the area to visit Brandi and sign up for her newsletter. These are worthy wines at wonderful price points. Fantastic.

In an odd twist, Brandi sells her estate fruit (which had been under contract for some time) while sourcing cabernet sauvignon and cab franc from the Krupps. That is, however, soon to change. Jamie Whetstone, of Turley and Whetstone fame, is Brandi’s winemaker and his commitment to outstanding, deep cabernet is immediately apparent. To the wines:

***+Jocelyn Lonen Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Wow. Really lovely with pronounced aromatics right from the first pour. More pronounced cab franc elements of mocha, truffle, grilled meats and violets accompany great, rich red fruit notes. Wonderful richness again on the palate with superb depth and mineral notes. Sweet, long, spicy finish. Sexy.

***Jocelyn Lonen Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: A wonderful wine at a great QPR (quality / price ratio). Chocolaty, fruit forward, lovely Napa cab. Ripe fruit dominates the nose with elements of café latte and vanilla. Firm, full bodied, nicely integrated and palate coating, this wine can be consumed over the shorter term but will benefit from 12 months in the cellar.

***++Jocelyn Lonen Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Powerful. Brooding. Great mountain fruit elements of briar, blackberry, cassis and chalky minerals. Great structure across the palate. Teeth staining. Firm, furry finish promises rewards for time in the cellar. Very Worthy.

Our second stop was at the other end of the valley – at even higher elevation. Outpost Winery requires a meandering drive up to the peak of Howell Mountain. The views are spectacular – you can actually watch hawks circle below you as they prey upon field animals in the vineyards - and the wines equally so. Thomas Rivers Brown, winemaker to the stars, crafts wonderful wines up here and was kind enough to spend a few hours with us, tasting through nor only the Outpost wines, but barrel sampling the nearly completed Schrader cabs and the new Two Hands bottling. I also took the opportunity to pick up a few bottles of Rivers Marie cabernet from the recent 2004 vintage. I have to say, it is great hanging out with Thomas. He is a rock star in Napa Valley winemaking these days – do yourself a favor and try his recently minted Maybach wines – but down to earth, sincere and earnest in his desire to craft truly exceptional wines. I am a huge fan. Tasted in the beautiful tasting room:

***++Outpost Howell Mountain zinfandel, 2005: Most of you know that I am not a big fan of those balls out, high octane zins. Except this one. Wow. What a sensory experience. I wasn’t sure if I was supposed to drink this or just dab a few drops behind each ear. Powerful, perfumed, dripping with jammy, blackberry and boysenberry preserve, church incense, floral violets, minerals and licorice root. Palate staining but not flabby at all – this is a tour de force of mountain zinfandel. Reminds me of older Sky zins I used to appreciate very much back in the day. A great wine.

***++Outpost Howell Mountain cabernet sauvignon, 2004: Powerful. Black, brambly mountain fruit, with an atypical purity and laser focus. Cassis and generous oak. Lovely integration and depth. Lonnnng finish. Gorgeous.

**+Outpost Howell Mountain Petite Sirah, 2004: Not 100% sure of the vintage. I am not a petite fan – this is nice but not my thing. Deep color, pine needles and blue fruits. Slate and lead pencil notes and a finish that packs a wallop.

To the barrel room we went:

Schrader T6 cabernet sauvignon, 2005: Wow. All of the Schrader wines were lovely and this one was no exception. Thomas mentioned that this was specifically from clone 6 in the To Kalon vineyard and I found it impressive and Paulliac like. Inky, deep, blue and black fruit, chalky minerals. Still closed up but clearly a powerful, stately wine built for the long haul.

Schrader “Old Sparky”, cabernet sauvignon 2005: I believe this is a mix of favorite clones from To Kalon. My personal favorite, this is already very expressive, with beautiful cabernet notes of cassis and black stone fruit, menthol and slate. Wow. Really a beautiful wine.

Schrader CCS cabernet sauvignon, 2005: So pretty – but with a steel backbone. This is a lovely wine that offers more feminine notes of red fruit, loamy earth and a floral, violet element – but again with wonderful structure and great length. Wow.

We did not taste, though I have separate notes, on Thomas Brown’s Rivers Marie pinot noir and cabernet. His Summa vineyard wines are worth seeking out and purchasing – now before there is no way to get them. Thomas is amazingly adept at it seems any and all varietals but, in my humble opinion, pinot noir is his calling.

Our next stop as we made our way back down the valley was Vineyard 29. We have been vineyard 29 fans for many years but had lost touch when the winery changed ownership. Well, the new owners not only have more fully developed the potential of this wonderful winery and vineyard, they have taken it to a brand new level. While the facility itself – and the staff – is amazingly impressive, do not let that take your focus away from the wonderful wines they are crafting there. It is a wonderful stop and the wines show equally well. Having added the Aida vineyard to their estate wine, Vineyard 29 now offers a portfolio of wines that should garner a lot of interest and reinvigorate their brand.


*+Vineyard 29 Cru, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: I did not like this wine very much. I found it thick, overcooked a bit and pruney. I believe it comes from a series of vineyards on the Rutherford bench. It is at a lower price point but really not my style of wine.

***Vineyard 29 Aida Red Wine, 1998: This instead was delicious. Still showing that autumnal, almost prune Danish element that is a signature Aida vineyard element, the cabernet fruit added blackberry, cigar tobacco and sois bois to it that made it refined and sophisticated. Very expressive and ready to drink. Very nice.

***Vineyard 29 Aida Red Wine, 2001: A cab / merlot blend (75/25 I think) this wine is also delicious and presenting itself very well today. Red jammy preserves, flowers, clove and that Graves like tobacco and minerals. Very worthy.

**+Vineyard 29, Aida zinfandel, 2003: Again, not my style of zin. For those Turley lovers out there, I am sure this will fire all of your senses. Take the pruney element of Aida and add bright zin berry fruit and you have – a pruney, hot zin! Not a bad wine, just again not what I prize in this varietal.

***+Vineyard 29 estate cabernet sauvignon, 2003: Stately. A lovely, unmistakably Napa styled cabernet sauvignon. Fruit driven, dusty, chalky tannins. Blue fruit on the palate and menthol on the long, furry finish. A beautiful wine. Candidly, way overpriced at $195.

Or final stop was with Tom Garrett, at Revana Winery. I admit to having a bit of a secondary agenda. Of course, we are fans of the Revana and were happy to visit the winery of its own accord. Our hidden motive was to squeeze a taste or two out of Tom’s Detert Family label – offering some of the oldest cab franc vines in the valley! Tom was gracious enough to pour us a little of each.

***+Revana Family cabernet sauvignon, 2004: Unmistakably a Hiedi Barrett cab. All of the tell tale signs. Good extraction, nice balance, rich, varietal fruit notes, new French oak, silky palate feel, big finish. All there. I admittedly could not differentiate this wine from many that have come before it from other wineries and other vineyards made by the same winemaker. Lovely if somewhat expected.

****Detert Family Oakville cabernet franc, 2004: Now we are having fun! A big framed, muscular wine. Delicious, succulent notes of red fruit, powdered valhrona chocolate, grilled meats and violets. Drenching, with endless depth and mineral goodness on the staining palate. This is good stuff, but it needs time.

***+Detert Family Oakville cabernet sauvignon, 2004: Round Two. Another bruiser. Chewy, dense cab fruit flavors, more floral elements and chocolate. Chalky minerals. Long, coating palate with no drop off. Big finish. Somehow more approachable than the franc, perhaps requiring a little less cellar time? Very nice indeed.


Well that was our trip. We very much enjoyed our time in the area and look forward to our next foray. And a few days of sipping beer and mineral water – hiccup!

Wine Musings LTD: Angwin to Zahtila Day 2

Day two of our Napa trip was not in Napa at all. Instead we spent our time in the Alexander valley, visiting with three wonderful wineries. Alexander valley is becoming a hot spot for dynamite wines and deserves special attention.

Our first stop was at a winery that needs no introduction. The wines of Peter Michael Winery are storied – with no weak links in the offering. Whether we are talking Les Pavots, the various top flight chardonnays or the definitive Apres Midi sauvignon blanc, most of the PMW wines define their categories. Further, they define gracious hospitality. Many thanks to our host Victor Aul for a lovely tour and formal, sit down tasting. If ever the opportunity presents, a visit to PMW should be a focal point of any visit. To the wines:

***++Peter Michael Winery, Après Midi, Sauvignon Blanc, 2005: In my humble opinion, there is no better new world sauvignon blanc. Stunning and rich, possessing varietal qualities of grapefruit, guava and anise but with much more richness and depth than typical. Bright but with a fullness on the palate and a lovely lingering finish. One of the best wines I had all day. Wonderful.

***Peter Michael Winery, La Carriere Estate, Chardonnay, 2005: Lovely. Rich and sophisticated. No surprise that this is very reminiscent of the Aubert chardonnays. Maybe I should say vice versa? Linseed, lemon custard, a touch of sage and candied orange zest on the nose. More of the same with deep minerality and spice on the coating palate. Lovely balance. Long, mineral-y finish. Dynamite.

***+Peter Michael Winery, La Belle Cote Estate, Chardonnay, 2005: A Personal favorite from this chardonnay stable. Brighter, perhaps better suited for aging, this wine reminds me of a dynamite Puligny Montrachet 1st growth. Stately. Bright citrus and orange blossom notes jump from the glass, married to a touch of petrol and a hint of nutmeg. The palate offers more citrus with slate and a touch of vanilla. Lovely and integrated, though a bit more bracing. Good stuff indeed.

***+Peter Michael Winery, Les Pavots, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: This wine surprised me a bit. Deep color to the rim, this young, mountain cab is nonetheless effusive from the glass. Notes of black and red berry fruit, church incense and bramble waft right up and assault the sense. Wow. The palate is a bit thick and unctuous, dare I say fat? It offers more black fruit, tar and bakers chocolate. Further along I am disappointed by a somewhat short finish. The wine tips the scales at over 15% alcohol! Almost seems like too much ripeness. I find this wine a bit over the top and I typically expect more from this wine.

Our second stop was Medlock Ames winery. It is nothing short of groovy. The honesty and enthusiasm that just gushes from Ames Morison, as he talks with you about his winery, cannot help but be contagious. Of course it doesn’t hurt that his wines are wonderful and expertly made. For a small winery, they have all the new doo-dads, with a gravity flow system, fancy crusher de-stemmers and stainless steel tanks, a chai that you might think was at Ch Lafite…the works. The big difference is that everything here is organic – down to the sheep and llama that keep the weeds down and the algae that grows on their pond functioning as fertilizer. I won’t rate the wines as they were from the barrel – but I will say that I bought some finished wines and signed up to receive more. This is a wonderful winery that deserves attention and support. We loved the time we spent there.

Medlock Ames Estate Merlot, 2005 (Barrel Sample): Delicious. Black stone fruit driven, with mocha espresso notes and chalky minerals. New french oak adds some vanilla and baking spices. Great depth on the palate and deftly balanced. I’m a buyer.

Medlock Ames Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 (Barrel Sample): My notes for the cabernet are similar to the merlot, with the addition of cassis fruit notes and a lovely black licorice element. Asian spice. Body is firm and dense, suggesting staying power. Yum.

Our last stop is a favorite: Verite Winery. I have commented on this venue and the wines in the past. They are stand outs from this area. Brian Baker was kind enough not only to meet us at the winery but bring along a bottle of the 2004 Anakota Montana bottling (I think)! All of the Verite wines are outstanding and deserve the accolades they regularly receive.

***++Verite, La Joie, 1998: The wine that started it all for me and still a crowd pleaser. Very bordelaise in style and structure – I would have guessed 1990 Gruaud Larose if pressed. Lovely red and black fruit, herbs and soil elements add complexity and sophistication to this wine. Long and still strong – a wine to savor.

***++Verite La Muse, 1998: Strong out of the gate. Surprisingly firm for a merlot based wine, it still offers up velvety lavender, espresso grind and red fruit notes. The palate offers a molten chocolate essence to accompany the fruit, with grilled meats and herbs. Yum.

**++Verite La Joie, 2000: Perhaps the weakest of the wines presented. Compared to the 01 and 02 versions of this wine, it simply had less stuffing, perhaps even a bit thin mid palate. Black brambly fruit and minerals are offered, if a bit reduced in stature. Finish lingers but does not offer the same level of intensity as the other wines being poured.

***+Verite, La Muse, 2001: Also surprisingly evolved, but still a wonderful mouthful of wine. Chocolate covered berry fruit, grilled meats, a touch of sois bois. Coating and delicious. Long, with firm, drying tannins. Serious.

****Verite La Joie, 2002: A stately wine, if perhaps reserved for cellaring just now. Great depth and harmony of flavor, showing mostly black stone fruit and chalk, pine needles and black licorice. Bottomless. Great Paulliac like in my opinion. Righteous.

****Verite, La Desir, 2002: Lovely and sophisticated. Tar, bramble, smoke and velvety crushed, berry fruit are evoked from this deeply colored, delicious wine. Hard to imagine this improving, but I am sure that it will. Superb integration of new French oak and deft balance. Great now, great later.

**Anakota, Montana, 2004: My first go with this wine. I am not a big fan. A bit over extracted and stewed. Thick licorice flavors and some tar. Almost Amarone like density. Not my cup of tea…or wine.