Wine Musings Vol#93

Wine of Merit: ****Araujo, Eisele vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: I am often puzzled by why Araujo does not garner as much praise as many of the other “cult” cabernets from Napa. Maybe it’s the clear choice of elegance and refinement over raw extraction? In any case, it is clearly deserving of high praise. This 2004 is testament. Alluring, sophisticated notes of plum pudding, cured tobacco, cedar and dried fig. Excellent concentration and perfect balance from nose through to back of palate. On the palate minerals, chocolate and mint are added to the plum notes and glide front to back. Fine, resolving finish. Delicious. A great wine experience.

***++Ceritas, Porter Bass vineyard, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2007: This is the third vintage made under this label by the owners of the Porter Bass vineyard. A wonderful wine. Medium weight and at first shy, this wine opened up with a bit of aeration to reveal lemon zest and kafir lime notes, accompanied by orange blossom, grapefruit, wet slate and a mélange of exotic spices. Sturdy structure with excellent acidity and length. While taught, this wine offers a lot of pleasure right now, as well as the promise of more developed notes with time in the cellar. Great effort. Only 88 cases made.

***++Rivers Marie, Thieriot vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2007: An inaugural effort, this chardonnay was far and away the table’s favorite of the night. Right in between the Ceritas and the Aubert efforts, the RM chardonnay hits many of the former wine’s bright fruit notes with a slightly broader, richer palate that includes marzipan and a touch of hazelnut. Palate is generous but focused with a lingering mineral and citrus pith finish. A lovely wine and an amazing value at $45.

***++Aubert, Lauren vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2004: If it is possible, this wine has become even more unctuous over time. Thick, oily, lemony, cardamom laced buttered popcorn, crème brulee and almond. Full, coating mouth feel, candied citrus and minerals. Delicious for it’s over the top, hedonistic nature. Drink soon.

***++Lokoya, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 2003: Served from magnum. I would characterize this wine as very similar in profile to the O’Shaughnessy cabernet listed below, but with more depth and focus. I am not sure if this is attributable to the vintage differences, format differences or otherwise. But this Lokoya adds chalk, a stronger mineral profile and licorice root to the fruited elements. The blue/black fruit is also more focused and youthful. A powerful wine for sure, but with excellent overall symmetry. Another reason to be a Howell Mountain cabernet fan.

***+O’Shaughnessy Vineyards, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 2002: This cab splits the difference between the Merus (below mentioned) and the Araujo. Clearly mountain grown, this wine offers beautifully balanced brambly, deep, dark blue/black fruited cabernet aromas, adding tar, lead pencil and smoke. Not vague in any way, but much more extracted than the Araujo, it also adds a touch of green sweetness I associate with spearmint. Firm-ish palate, excellent oak integration, long finish. A very worthy effort made by folks who clearly take pride in the Howell Mountain terroir.

***+Merus, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: Where the Araujo focuses on balance and integration, Merus substitutes depth and concentration. Almost aussie like in its primary fruit focus. Black and blue berry fruit preserves, cocoa powder, licorice root. A deep, thick iteration of cabernet. A bit ponderous, but still fun and very much delicious in a “…and for desert I’ll take the 5 lb. banana split sundae challenge! (gasps heard around the table)” kind of way. If you believe more is more, then Merus is for you. Even the bottle is oversized for a typical 750ml. Big!

***+ Chateau Langoa Barton, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 2000: A sister wine of the famed Ch. Leoville Barton. This wine has verve. Refreshingly NOT from Napa, one is immediately confronted with exuberant black fruit laced with animal, nicoise olive and bay leaf notes. The palate continues the assault, including a saline element, baker’s chocolate and racy red and black currants. Full, powerful, long tannic finish. Great with food. A yummy wine from a dynamite vintage. Drink or hold.

Wine Musings Vol#92

****+Wine of Merit: Marcassin, Zio Tony ranch, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2004: Wow! One must stop for a moment and appreciate. I have had other vintages of this wine and not been nearly as impressed. And yet this bottle of 2004 requires a complete rethinking and re-examination. At the same time complex and subtle, this chardonnay speaks to a sophistication and lightness of hand that I do not associate with Helen Turley, or new world chardonnay for that matter. Wonderful, lithe, balanced, frisky, and a sea-salty, lemon-zesty crushed sea shell verve (to balance out the more typical creme brulee notes) that I just loved. Perfectly balanced and structured. Long, mineral, lime-y finish. Just a superb chardonnay. Go figure.

***+Chateau Margui, Coteaux varois, rouge, 2006: A wonderful, spirited wine. A 60/40 syrah/cab mix from provence, this wine reminds me of the Galileo saying, "wine is sunshine held together by water". I can taste provence in there, its sun backed stones, garrigue, red and black currants and berries, the spice market in Aix en provence...delicious. And cheap ($17 a pop, $38 in mag!). Have it with a simple roasted chicken with new potatoes and count the blessings. Great.

***+Medlock Ames, Estate, Sonoma Mountain, merlot, 2003: Medlock Ames knows merlot. This iteration is firm and deep, with excellent plum and black currant, violet, mint, baker's choclate and pepper. Voluminous, with solid structure and good oak presence...never overwhelming. A wine to drink with air, or hold.

***+Jocelyn Lonen Winery, Lonen Reserve, cabernet sauvignon, 2003: Just wonderful. A wine made by the late Joshua Krupp, with fruit sourced from the Krupp's Stagecoach vineyard. Lovely concentration, rich and full...real Stagecoach terroir. Lush, velvety black cherry, mocha, cigar box with touches of fennel seed, earth and ripe plum that makes me think cab franc. Long, fine finish. Yum!

***+Woodward Canyon, Charbonneau vineyards, Walla walla, cabernet sauvignon, 1989: Yummy cab from another era. 12.3% abv, good acid structure, suave, gliding wahington state cab. Aromas of black cherry, dark chocolate, melted licorice, tar and a touch of bbq sauce. Integrated and harmonious front to back. Just a lovely wine to have with some slow cooked short ribs. Ah...the pleasures of food and wine.

Wine Musings Vol#91

Wine of Merit: ***++Lopez de Heredia Vina Bosconia, Gran Reserva, Rioja, 1981: I love this wine. Wonderful nuance and verve. Mature color, great notes of rose hip, potpourri, rhubarb and minerals. Palate glides but never thins. Cherry, white strawberry and more minerals in the mid palate. Medium, long finish. Great!

***+Ch. Ducru Beaucaillou, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1999: A lovely, terroir-driven, stately wine. Elements of juniper, spicy red and black berry fruit, licorice root, smoke. Wonderfully elegant on the palate. Completely integrated and suave with no fading. Lingering, fine finish. I think 1999 is generally an under appreciated vintage for Bordeaux.

***+Von Strasser, Estate, Diamond Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Similar to Diamond Creek, I find Rudy Von Strasser's wines to be blessed with a great sense of place. Nuances of freshly turned earth, rose hip and rose petal, toffee, raw tobacco leaf...gorgeous. Still coating, rich and long, this wine is really hitting its stride. Terrific.

***(+)Phillips Hill, Toulouse vineyard, Anderson Valley, pinot noir, 2007: A new wine for me. A cool climate signature, with deep red and black fruit, pipe tobacco, a touch of bey leaf and earthiness. Lovely integration and volume on the palate, with air. Firm tannic backbone suggests cellaring, as does the long, firm finish. A well crafted wine that will benefit from time.

Wine Musings Vol#90

Wine of Merit: ***++Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape, 1995: Elegant. This wine has aged into a lovely, balanced, almost Burgundian chateauneuf. Warm, rich cherry compote, kirsch, red peppercorn, toasted caramel. Touch of earth and lavender. The palate glides, with more pepper and red fruit. Finish is long and spicy. With time the acids become more pronounced as the fruit fades. Drink now.

***+ Castello di Camigliano, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: I have posted on this before. A wonderful, full, rich brunello. Deep, chocolate covered black cherry, caramel, cigar tobacco and smoke. Generous, layered, coating palate. Velvety. Furry, long, lithe finish. Great.

***Viader, Estate, Diamond Mountain, cabernet sauv/franc, 1994: Another lovely, aged, nuanced wine. Elements of plum and black currant, roasted meats, sage, espresso and violet. Good concentration and integration, front to back. Finish is resolving but still fine.

***Laurel Glen, Terra Rosa, Sonoma mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1990: This wine was made before Patrick moved the Terra Rosa label to Argentina. Lovely, mature sonoma cab. Turned earth, roasted plum and chocolate, anise, cigar box. The palate is thinning a bit but still generous through to a resolving, fine cab finish. Great balance. A nice find while digging through the cellar.

***Windgap, Russian River Valley, pinot gris, 2007: Springtime in a glass. From the lovely vermilion color to the whiff of fresh blossoms, this wine conjures up picnics on the great lawn with not a cloud in the sky. Persimmon, beach nut, orange blossom. Touch of spearmint. A hint of line dried fresh laundry. The palate is rich with minerals and slightly citrusy. The finish is clean and fresh if a bit abrupt. Great food wine.

***Marchese Frescobaldi, Nipozzano Riserva, Chianti Rufina, 2005: Delicious. Fresh, unpretentious chianti, happy to be quaffed from a tumbler in the company of a nice pizza. Bright cherry fruit, blood orange, grilled fig, zesty pepper, chocolate. Medium, friendly spicy finish. Mmmm....tasty.

Wine Musings Vol#89

***+Wine of Merit: Shane Wines, Jemrose vineyard, Bennett Valley, syrah, 2007: Notably opaque and inky. Complex aromas of iron, wet stone, grilled meats and spiced red fruit. With time cafe au lait and a floral, violet note. Rich and layered, picking up more chocolate and spice on the palate. Lovely integration and balance. Lingering, mineral finish. A new producer for me and one to watch with enthusiasm.

***+Domaine de l' Aigueliere, Cote Doree, Montpeyroux, Coteaux du Languedoc, syrah, 1995: I have enjoyed the evolution of this wine since its issuance. Initially very pronounced and almost challenging to drink, the Cote Doree has mellowed in its old age, now offering a lovely melange of lavender, fresh oregano, red fruit, licorice root, cured meats and smoke. Just delicious. The palate is playfully racy and sweet, the finish fine, balanced and of medium length. Patience has its virtues after all.

***Arcadian, Fiddlestix vineyard, Santa Rita Hills, pinot noir, 2004: Garnet hued, with nuanced aromas of licorice, cinnamon, tisane and sour cherry. The palate is firm, with pronounced minerals, black pepper, more racy red fruit and a long, mineral, tannic finish. Complex and perhaps still holding much in reserve. Worth it.

**++Antonio Vallana e Figlio, Boca, Piemonte, nebbiolo, 1996: A wonderfully interesting, aged nebbiolo. Prominent notes of oxidized iron, turned earth, nicoise olive, plum, dried cherry and cranberry. Nuances of baker's chocolate and tar. Acids are still bright and the palate is lively. Great integration and a fine, resolving finish. Refreshing after so many "international" wines.

**++Shane Wines, The Unknown, Sonoma County, syrah, 2007: A much cooler profile than the Jemrose. More blue and black fruits, coated in chocolate, mint and violets. More pronounced on the palate, picking up malabar pepper and rich, dark roasted coffee. Delicious.

Wine Musings Vol#88

Wine of Merit: ***+Les Bahans du Chateau Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux, 1996: The second wine of the famed 1st growth estate. Wonderful. Classic Graves and very reminiscent of the 1st growth. Lovely autumnal and sous bois elements, minerals, dark red fruit, broad leaf tobacco and cigar box. Good structure, balance and integration but clearly ready to drink, though no drop off. A can't miss wine made for Claret lovers. I believe that 1996 Bordeaux is finally coming around. A great time to check in on them if you are cellaring that vintage.

***+Domaine Serene, Evenstad Reserve, Willamette Valley, pinot noir, 2004: Powerful, concentrated and structured pinot noir. Lovely notes of blackberry fruit, pine, nice florals, pipe tobacco and milk chocolate. With time in the glass the wine exhibits more richness on the palate and excellent length. A wine for now or maybe even better in a few years. Promising.

**+Clos Pegase, Pegase Circle Reserve Port, petite syrah, 1995: A curiosity more than anything. Very sweet, black, juicy petite fruit. A touch of spearmint and blueberry. A little grainy. Gliding palate front to back with a black fruit finish. Not a wine I would recommend nor would I avoid it entirely. Nice with a chocolate desert.