Wine Musings Vol#65: The Cru Dinner

The following wines were served at one sitting at Restaurant Cru in New York City (www.cru-nyc.com). Many were brought to the table by the restaurant owner Roy Welland, who joined us for the evening in Cru’s private cellar dining room. While these kinds of events are wonderful, they make tasting note taking almost impossible, so I apologize in advance for perhaps less than comprehensive notes in some wines’ regard. The notes are not in order of merit, but in the order in which the wines were poured. Further, as there are 20 or so wines, I have broken them into 4 volumes, with natural breaks, which I will post on consecutive days:

***++Bollinger, RD, Extra Brut, Ay, champagne, 1988: Roy is a champagne aficionado, and started us off with two wonderful vintage champagnes, the Bollinger RD 88 and the 81, from magnum. Both are lovely. I tended toward the newer vintage as it showed more of that yeasty richness that serves as the trademark for this house. Surprisingly youthful and vibrant (I believe this wine was disgorged in 2001), the wine shows off a wonderful mousse and fine, energetic bead. That thick yeastiness is accompanied by notes of zesty candied lemon, tropical nuts and wet stone. The palate offers wonderful, rich texture, more citrus, hazelnut and ginger and a fine, pronounced spicy, mineral finish. Super. Perhaps not as sophisticated and bold as the Sir Winston (my fave) but a great example of wonderful vintage champagne.

***Bollinger, RD, Extra Brut, Ay, champagne, 1981: Rather than post comprehensive notes on the 81, I will simply say that my notes were fairly consistent with two important differences: A clearly more malic, green apple profile, more of a mineral impression and a somewhat reduced palate and finish which makes me sense that the wine has peaked and should be enjoyed now and in the short term. Still, a wonderful glass of bubbly.

Wine of Merit: *****Trimbach, Clos St. Hune, Alsace, riesling, 1990: Breathtaking. Another Roy offering. I have to admit to being bowled over by this wine. Really. Even just conjuring up the sensations required to write these notes makes me a little misty. It’s just that I was nowhere near ready for how amazingly complex, nuanced, perfectly integrated, fresh and profound this wine was going to be. This wine is at once unctuous and gossamer, showing off perfumed notes of Anjou pear and perfect white peach, lily of the valley, orange blossom, a hint of delicate, Madagascar pink peppercorn, a light wafting of petrol. Just amazing. The palate coats and glides, viscous and fluid, perfectly weighted, perfect acid backbone, the perfect touch of lemon, lime, meringue. Perfect follow through. Long mineral finish. Ageless. Haunting. And perfectly paired with the most wonderful, butter-like, wafer thin sashimi I have ever had (kudos to the Cru Crew!). Available at $400 generally speaking at retail. Somehow a steal.

***+Marcassin, Zio Tony Ranch, Sonoma, chardonnay, 2003: I think this wine epitomizes the difficult relationship I have with Marcassin wines. On the one side the flavors are powerful and intense; a daring, vinous tour de force. A Corton Charlemagne on steroids, this wine assaults you with huge amounts of linseed, buttered popcorn, nutmeg, petrol, limoncello and powdered sugar. On the other hand I find the wines blousy and hot, in this case resulting in diminished, carmelized, candied fruit and a blurred, vague palate profile. It is almost like the winemaker can’t help but turn it up to eleven, even though a more dulcimer tone might actually do the fruit more justice. A fun wine to taste and appreciate, but a difficult wine to enjoy.

****Kongsgaard, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2004: Betting more on balance is the Kongsgaard. Perhaps not as in your face, this wine (immediately a consistent favorite of mine) offers more focused characteristics and a much more integrated, balanced palate. No mistaking it for a Burgundy to be sure…simply a wonderful expression of Napa fruit with wonderful depth and excellent layering of flavors through to a spicy, long finish. I have posted on this wine before and the notes are consistent, though serving this wine with the Trimbach and the Blanchots Chablis perhaps brings it to earth a bit. Still – I am happy to cellar this and would still consider it the standard in California chardonnay.

Wine of Merit: *****Domaine Francois Raveneau, Blanchots, Grand Cru, Chablis, 1996: Here again, Roy serves a wine that sets the benchmark. What class. What stature. What purity. Drinking this wine makes me think of the first time I saw Michelangelo’s David; perfectly proportioned…chiseled perfection. This wine must clearly be at its peak, I cannot imagine it getting better – though it seems ageless and bright. High toned elements of white hibiscus, Asian pear, Meyer lemon, liquid minerals…the definition of Chablis. Somehow this wine is at once austere and welcoming. The palate has bracing acids but they are never off putting or hard-edged and the finish offers more long minerals and peppery lemon fruit. Wow. I have to say, Chablis still offers amazing value for what it delivers. I have invested heavily in 1996 grand cru Chablis (my boys’ birth year) and am glad of it.

Wine Musings Vol#64

Wine of Merit: ****+Domaine Paul Autard, La Cote Ronde, Chateauneuf du Pape, 2003: Wow! I have previously posted with great admiration of and appreciation for this wine and winemaker. Truth be told this wine is simply at its pinnacle and garners even greater praise. While both this and the Moncayo (see below) are based on the same varietal that is where the similarities end. This wine is all about sophistication and nuance, with deftly integrated elements that come together to create a masterpiece. Layers upon layers of boysenberry, pipe tobacco, fresh virgin olive oil, black nicoise olive tapenade, lavender and violets, pink peppercorn (I know I can’t believe it either!) all distinct and intact come together like a delicious meal would with perfectly harmonious ingredients. What a masterful wine. The flavors integrate just as well on the coating palate, where the peppercorn and fruit elements play more center stage. Just perfect integration and balance with a tremendous, spice infused finish, all of which bode well for future aging. Given its avails at under $50, I can’t speak highly enough of this wine. I would buy more before Jean-paul Autard becomes the next Paul Avril! A real pleasure.

***++Chateau Duhart Million, Domains Barons de Rothschild, Paulliac, Grand Cru Classe, Bordeaux, 2000: From magnum. Just a dynamite wine. Hard to believe that cali cab makers are fronting 1st vintage “cults” for over $100 a bottle when stuff with this provenance and pedigree can be had for 40% less eight years after vintage. To be fair, this wine has received tepid reviews which I am sure have kept the price down. Our luck – I would buy some before RP checks back in on the wine again (his scores have gone up every year he has re-tasted this wine)! Anyway…to each his own. With 2 to 4 hours of air this wine opens to reveal layer upon layer of velvety, rich pipe tobacco, cassis, blackberry, blood, grilled meats, cinnamon and licorice root. More black fruit and super liquid minerals on the muscular but very approachable palate. Deft balance and integration right through to the fine, almost sweet finish. Sure, this wine can be put away and it will age and nuance…or it can be enjoyed now for its exuberance – with lots of decanting time. A wine that can be had with a nice piece of red meat and then pondered through desert and beyond. A winner.

***++Newton, Unfiltered, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2003: I am amazed at how good this wine is for the price. Full throttle chard to be sure, but never out of balance and very nicely integrated. Meyer lemon, crème brule, popcorn, baking spices, mission fig…super. Some nice liquid minerals on the palate and a hint of herbs. Long spicy finish. Drinking great at age 5. Yes, this wine lacks the nuanced nature and great structure of wines made by Kongsgaard and Aubert – but for $40 a pop? It’s a no brainer.

***+Guigal, Brune et Blonde, Cote Rotie, 2001: Another wow wine. I love this wine. Wonderful complexity. Tar, grilled meats, racy red currant, rose petal, pepper and spice. Just delicious. Deft balance. Great flavors of mature red fruit, minerals and pepper. Lovely integration front to back. Long, stuffed finish. Just a great example of more and more my favorite wine region. A great buy when you realize that the single vineyard Guigals cost 5x as much.

***+Pride Mountain Vineyards, Estate, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2002: Yummy. This wine very much reminds me of the Bryant Family style; Lush, thick blueberry preserves, a touch of banana cream, valhrona chocolate, baking spices and so much hazel-nutty, vanilla new oak you are not sure whether to drink it or pour it on top of vanilla ice cream. Coating palate, warm, medium finish. Completely open knit, delicious and a wonderful romp…It is so easy and silky on the palate almost drinks itself! But – like the Bryant Family wines themselves – I cannot imagine paying hundreds of dollars a bottle. To me this is a wine to enjoy with a smile and a nod to Robert Parker and his “gobs and gobs of hedonistic fruit” international style (if pressed, I would have guessed Aussie for this wine)…not something to search for like the grail, as folks do with Bryant Family and Mollydooker. Still…lovely!

***Antinori, Tignanello, IGT, Toscana, 2000: Now that’s Italian. Probably one of the more average vintages for this grand daddy of the Super Tuscans, it still reverberates with the essence of Tuscany and its homey varietal, Sangiovese. Bright , spicy mulberry and pomegranate, traditional elements of saddle leather, grilled meats and a wonderful violet tone, this particular Tignanello is velvety, forward and forthcoming…a delicious Tuscan red that adds weight and sophistication in better vintages. Nice medium long finish. A wine to be enjoyed sooner rather than later in my opinion.

***Alto Moncayo, Campo de Borja, granacha, 2005: Another Spanish Robert Parker recipe wine. Not to say that this wine is not delicious in a full throttle, over the top kind of way but it is sad to see this phenomenon creep across the globe. First California, then Australia, then Spain (it is no surprise that Dan Phillips has his hand in this wine)…each learning that over extraction, high alcohol and flogging of new oak garners big scores and with them big money. To whit: Thick, jammy blueberry preserves, vanilla, thick bittersweet chocolate, even some overripe bananas just launch themselves from the glass. The palate is fat and thick, reminiscent of blueberry infused maple syrup (brought on no doubt by the 16% alcohol this wine fronts). The finish continues with intense fruit and fine tannin, integrating nicely with the lush, mouth coating entry. A cartoon like wine (I always think of Willy Wonka when I have these wines) that I enjoy drinking every once in a rare while. In the meantime, I’ll take a CVNE Imperial to go!

Wine Musings Vol#63

Wine of Merit: ****Keller Estate, Precioso, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2005: From magnum. I admit to buying this more out of curiosity than anything…there are not a lot of wineries with estate fruit in the Petaluma Gap…and my curiosity was rewarded! Wonderful, integrated white flower, Asian pear, mission fig and lemon zest notes emerge with the perfect amount of weight and concentration. The palate is equally well balanced, gliding from front to back without effort, adding minerals, lemon curd and then nutmeg and vanilla bean. The finish is medium-long and spicy…just the right kiss of oak. Wow! Nicely done. A wine I would happily drink on regular occasion.

****Mount Mary, Quintet, Lilydale, cabernets, 1994: I am not sure I understand the controversy surrounding Mount Mary. I think it was the same kind of grudge that Robert Parker held against Diamond Creek for all of those years – completely unsubstantiated. These are expertly crafted, deep, inspired wines. As last I found the wine a bit hard and nervous, this time I decanted and gave it some time to settle down. Perfect move. This wine is regal. It offers an exhilarating convergence of Gruaud Larose complexity and nuance, Mouton black fruit and mint and Aussie intensity and grip. All laser focused and finely delineated. The palate is bright and lively, never shrill and emphasizes plum, red fruit and minerals while maintaining excellent depth and athleticism. The finish is firm and in place for the long haul. A serious, stately wine that could be featured at any special occasion.

***+Melville Winery, Clone 115 Indigene, Estate vineyard, Central Coast, pinot noir 2002: I am typically not a huge fan of the Melville house style. I find the wines over extracted and more syrah-like than pinot noir. That said this is a very fine wine that many will appreciate and like. Perhaps a bit too deep and firm for my palate, nonetheless it shows off clone 115 characteristics with verve and panache. Deep, deep red currant fruit, Malabar pepper, cinnamon stick and licorice root notes brood and waft. The palate is unapologetically big-boned and thick, the finish long, peppery but still silky, with none of the off putting heat I have experienced with Melville in the past. Expertly crafted in the bold-and-the-beautiful style of pinot. One of the better Melville wines I have had.

***+Melville Winery, Terraces, Estate vineyard, Central Coast, pinot noir, 2002: In much the same vein as the Clone 115, the Terraces bottling is full throttle and deep, nuanced this time by a sweetness, candied orange zest and allspice. With time in the glass this wine seems to converge around a pronounced wintergreen element that almost makes it one dimensional. The palate is vibrant and perhaps not quite as full as the Clone 115, still offering a base note of black cherry liquor and that can’t mistake it wintergreen note. The finish is long and spicy. Finely crafted and very pleasant to drink.

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Wine of Merit: ****+Araujo, Eisele vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2003: Wow. Just majestic. I have a very special place in my heart for this wine. I love the way it imparts the terroir of the Eisele vineyard, with its broad leaf tobacco, deep, lush red and plum fruit, its chocolate mint and its autumnal, peppery sandalwood. Great, almost endless depth, great, flinty minerals, this wine is still young, primal and brooding. Striking and hewn across the mid palate, this wine has an endless reserve of strength that it can and will undoubtedly call upon as it continues to age. The finish is fine and furry but here again clearly built for the long haul. A wine that will offer great enjoyment anytime it is opened from now thru the next few decades I am sure. Wonderful.

***++Domaine des Comte Lafon, Mersault, Burgundy, 2004: I have been less than impressed by some Comte Lafon wines in the recent past, but this delivers. Offering lovely, nuanced complexity, this wine is all bright lemon curd, key lime, verbena, marzipan and a vanilla bean, with a pear crème brule thing that I just find delicious, all with lithe weightless yet vibrant intensity. The palate hints at minerals and moves front to back with silky smoothness, integrating more candied citrus and white fruit elements with little effort. The finish has a perfumed spiciness, with a candied ginger lingering sensation. Just a dynamite, delicious wine. Loved it.

***Pali Wine Company, Inman Olivet vineyard, Russian River Valley, pinot noir, 2006: Delicious. This wine is made by Brian Loring. I typically dig his wines so I thought I would give this one a try. I was first intrigued by the screw cap. Not typical on a $50 bottle of wine. I like the pluck! The nose of this wine is still primal and sorting itself out. That said, there is no doubt it is an RRV wine; all bright black cherry, cola, cream and green tea. The palate adds Malabar pepper, Kenyan coffee and nutmeg. Racy and a tad nervous, the acids are bracing and lively, though the mid palate is a bit vague and a tad medicinal, surprising for a low alcohol wine (13.9%). The finish is also lively, peppery and medium long. Nice!

**++Miner Family, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2001: A nice quaffable glass of red wine. Age has helped this wine soften and nuance, offering red raspberry and black fruit, dark, dusty baker’s chocolate, soy and some nice briar. The palate is velvety if a touch vague and the finish is medium length offering lovely, integrated Asian spice and more chocolate. Really, a very nice food wine that I very much enjoyed. Yum.

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Wine of Merit: ***+Chateau Beychevelle, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1989: Classic elegance. As a huge fan of southern St. Julien wines, I have always felt that Beychevelle should be capable of better things…the gravelly vineyards, the history, the vicinity to Ducru and Gruaud…and the 89 shows some of that potential. Not that this wine reminds me of the others mentioned…it is lighter, more feminine…perhaps more Margaux-like. Not overly structured or showy, this wine is instead sophisticated and nuanced, with lovely, perfumed red and black berry fruit, floral rose petal, chocolate mint and sandalwood incense spice. Lithe and clean on the palate it is still coating and offers nice integration, great minerals and balance. The finish is firm but fine and surprisingly long. A dynamite wine from an extraordinary vintage.

***Paul Hobbs, Richard Dinner vineyard, Sonoma Mountain, chardonnay, 2002: Full throttle…really all singing all dancing. Deep golden hue, thick, opulent lemon custard, linseed, candied orange zest, honeyed fig, hazelnut. Oily, viscous palate…a bit of heat on the long, spicy finish. 14.8% alcohol boys and girls. Huge wine. Not degrading but I am guessing perhaps even better on release. Still…Delicious!

***Flowers Winery, Estate vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2002: Aging gracefully. Golden hued, the wine is still vibrant and full of life: keylime, honeysuckle, marzipan, white peaches and minerals. Bright, racy palate, with more minerals and almond paste. Like the Hobbs, probably better on release but still very much worth drinking. Great!

**++Double Diamond, Amber Knoll vineyard, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: Experts only! Actually, this wine is very approachable and pretty wide open. Made for Schrader by Thomas Rivers Brown. Open knit and juicy, I do not think this wine is particularly age worthy. Pop and pour. Nice nuances of church incense, soy, chocolate and licorice, some rose petal, eucalyptus and sandalwood. The palate feels very Silverado Trail to me (it is actually Lake county), lively but already resolved, spicy, peppery with more of that succulent red berry / black cherry fruit. Very nice if not particularly complicated or sophisticated. A good glass of red wine over the short term. I also like the 75 wine cellars execution of this vineyard, perhaps even a tad more.

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Wine of Merit: ***++Chateau Gruaud Larose, 2nd growth, St. Julien, Haut Medoc, Bordeaux, 2005: Wow. What a stately wine. Believe the hype for this vintage. I am a gruaud head and was surprised when my Dad opened this up – I imagined that it would be impenetrable at this age. Instead it was a joy. No question that this wine is still primal and still a brute – but it is perfectly balanced, limitless in its depth and well integrated front to back. Great black fruit, chalk a touch of loamy soil, this wine will progress and nuance as it ages. Now it can be enjoyed for its succulence, power and grace. Wonderful wine – I’m excited I got a case! What a buy at $50 a pop!

***+Eric Texier, Brezeme, Vielles Vignes Perqualt, Cote du Rhone, 2005: I have commented on this wine in the past and was less than overwhelmed. Well, it has hit its stride and then some. Wonderful, meal in a glass nuances and textures. Dynamite wine that offers so much more than what I think of as typical CDR (in fact it is 100% syrah). Rosemary, black olive, lavender, tar, scorched earth…just layers and layers. Lots of thick, ripe mixed berry pie just unloads from the glass. Wonderful, velvety mouth feel and considerable depth. Coating front to back. Fine, sweet medium length finish. Delicious and a great value. Drink or hold.

***Fattoria Le Puppille, Saffredi, IGT, Toscana, 2004: A remembrance of our recent trip to the Maremma …and what a wonderful concoction of cabernet, merlot and alicante! Initially a bit reticent from the glass, this wine filled out quickly. Like many of the French varietal oriented Maremma wines, the varietal nature of the grapes cannot but be influenced by the wonderful, exuberant “Italianess” that the Maremma imbues into its soils. Very much in a fruit driven style, the nose of this wine is juicy, ripe blackberries and sugarplums, floral lavender, rosemary and pine needles, earth and a wonderful, powdery “C Howard Violet Chewing Gum” thing that I adore and that fills the senses. Surprisingly, the palate showed some thinness in the middle, though it added a very nice black pepper and leather note to the fruit and flowers. The finish was long and chewy. While I often take serious points away for a lack of integration and balance, this was a very nice wine. I have read where some have afforded this huge scores…I would consider it fun and very much worth a romp. At $80 this seems upside down to me.

**Walter Hansel, Estate, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2002: Past its prime. Walter Hansel makes wines that impress a great deal at first blush – the term “burgundian” is often thrown about. Not this time. Tell tale dark golden hue. Wine offers lovely minerality , some white peach but mostly faded fruit and a touch of madiera. Lots of hazelnut from toasted oak barrels. Palate is still firm and a bit racy. Lots of spice and a slight bitterness on the finish. A style of wine that flatters in its youth but struggles with bottle age.