From notes taken August, 2006:Wine of Merit: ***++Robert Ampeau, Volnay Santenot, 1er cru, 1993: To know Robert Ampeau is to dig his whole approach to wine. He holds his wine until he decides it is ready. Maybe 5 years, maybe 10, maybe more. Nice, if you can pull it off. This is the current vintage of this wine! And, as usual, he is right on the money. Delicious, sophisticated, multi layered. Shows a bit of barnyard and tobacco, but plenty of cherry red fruit, cardamom, cola and a nuance of Marco Polo tea (do you know it? It is made by Mariage Freres and worth seeking out) . Oak is nicely integrated, adding some chai spice and vanilla to the palate and the sweet, fine tannins on the finish. Showing beautifully and will drink for at least another 3 to 5 years for sure.
**Campbell Rutherglen Muscat, NV: Hot! Hot! Hot! 17.5% alch. This is a syrupy, port styled wine made from Muscat in the land down under. Amber hue. More of a Vin Santo experience, it offers a hot, alcohol-driven nose, with nutty, white raisin and vanilla stewed peaches on the palate. Astringent finish with some spice. This is clearly why Mad Max was so mad. Dip your biscotti and say, “Gidday!”
***++Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard cabernet, 2001: Stately. I enjoy this old style, mountain cab. This varietal driven wine offers deep, mountain red fruit, cassis, minerals and hints of tobacco. Firm and structured, everything is there, including some well integrated NFO, but in reserve. In fact, it has a vin de garde quality that will reward cellaring. It reminds me of a Californian Leoville Las Cases – or possibly a slightly more modern Diamond Creek VH. A wine of conviction. I dig it.
***MJ Dry Creek Sangiovese, 2002: Made by the Unti family, of zinfandel fame. I admit to a soft place in my heart for Dry Creek fruit. Wonderful purity and elegance. The Volnay of Sonoma. This does not disappoint. Initially very red, cherry fruit and spice, the wine settles into a more sophisticated saddle leather, clove and mocha signature. Palate is spicy, with more red fruit and zippy acids. Long, spicy, sweet finish. Yummy.
***+Rodney Strong, Alexander Valley Cabernet Reserve, 1992: Very well crafted. Delicious, varietal, still very fresh, good depth, balance and concentration, good length on the finish. A very good wine overall that has benefited from aging. I honestly believe that the Alexander valley is underappreciated for its ability to deliver excellent cabernet sauvignon. I have always liked the Silver Oak bottling (yes, it’s true!) and think the Verite wines benefit from this appellation as well.
**Bedell Cellars, Reserve Merlot, 2001: From the North Fork of Long Island. I wanted to like this wine. Not a personal favorite though over all not bad. A wine by numbers kinda wine. What they meant in Sideways when they were dissing Merlot. Mocha, plum fruit, some minerals, pretty blousy. I can just see a bunch of folks tasting this wine and saying, “Smooth!” Moving on.
*+Nero di Vite, Caniette, 2000: There is a story to this wine. First it is from the Marche, as is yours truly. Secondly, one of the owners sent me a bottle when it was released back in the day and I found it delicious. Not super sophisticated but yummy – a poor man’s Caprai 25 anni - exactly what you would hope for in a Rosso Piceno. As it turns out it is imported to the US so I bought a case. The wine I bought here is a disaster. Unbalanced, searingly tannic – it is a shame. The ripe, plump red fruit is there but the palate is a mess. Maybe the imported wine is different? Maybe a bad batch? Who knows. Che tragedia!
***++Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard cabernet, 2001: Stately. I enjoy this old style, mountain cab. This varietal driven wine offers deep, mountain red fruit, cassis, minerals and hints of tobacco. Firm and structured, everything is there, including some well integrated NFO, but in reserve. In fact, it has a vin de garde quality that will reward cellaring. It reminds me of a Californian Leoville Las Cases – or possibly a slightly more modern Diamond Creek VH. A wine of conviction. I dig it.
***MJ Dry Creek Sangiovese, 2002: Made by the Unti family, of zinfandel fame. I admit to a soft place in my heart for Dry Creek fruit. Wonderful purity and elegance. The Volnay of Sonoma. This does not disappoint. Initially very red, cherry fruit and spice, the wine settles into a more sophisticated saddle leather, clove and mocha signature. Palate is spicy, with more red fruit and zippy acids. Long, spicy, sweet finish. Yummy.
***+Rodney Strong, Alexander Valley Cabernet Reserve, 1992: Very well crafted. Delicious, varietal, still very fresh, good depth, balance and concentration, good length on the finish. A very good wine overall that has benefited from aging. I honestly believe that the Alexander valley is underappreciated for its ability to deliver excellent cabernet sauvignon. I have always liked the Silver Oak bottling (yes, it’s true!) and think the Verite wines benefit from this appellation as well.
**Bedell Cellars, Reserve Merlot, 2001: From the North Fork of Long Island. I wanted to like this wine. Not a personal favorite though over all not bad. A wine by numbers kinda wine. What they meant in Sideways when they were dissing Merlot. Mocha, plum fruit, some minerals, pretty blousy. I can just see a bunch of folks tasting this wine and saying, “Smooth!” Moving on.
*+Nero di Vite, Caniette, 2000: There is a story to this wine. First it is from the Marche, as is yours truly. Secondly, one of the owners sent me a bottle when it was released back in the day and I found it delicious. Not super sophisticated but yummy – a poor man’s Caprai 25 anni - exactly what you would hope for in a Rosso Piceno. As it turns out it is imported to the US so I bought a case. The wine I bought here is a disaster. Unbalanced, searingly tannic – it is a shame. The ripe, plump red fruit is there but the palate is a mess. Maybe the imported wine is different? Maybe a bad batch? Who knows. Che tragedia!
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