Saturday, May 19, 2007

Wine Musings Vol#22


From notes taken May, 2006:

Wine of Merit: ****Nalle zinfandel, 1994: Effortless. I have a very strong fondness for Doug Nalle’s wines. They offer great balance, integration and elegance – not terms commonly used in describing zin. Yet I think it is zinfandel’s best iteration. This wine is almost Volnay like, perfumed, cherry and black currant, milk chocolate, clove and violets. Smooth across the palate with a perfectly integrated finish. No drop off at all. Low alch these days for zin (13.5) and proof positive that this style works just as well as the punch in the nose zins that get all the press. Perfect food wine.

***Ridge Geyersville, 1994: Bountiful. Geyersville has always been like the Chateauneuf of Sonoma Valley to me- each varietal contributing to the mélange of flavors and aromas. This wine is mature but hardly seems old. Great clarity and color. It offers ripe plum and boysenberry, bramble and grilled meat elements. Big white pepper, bitter chocolate palate and a puckery finish. Nice.

****Martinelli Jackass Vineyard, 1993: The other end of the spectrum. Mature color, big, thick viscous wine. Almost 16% alch! This is a big, flamboyant wine, though none the less delicious. The nose offers fantastic, candied citrus and plum fruit, a crème brule sweetness and creaminess and a very notable black cherry liquer element to it. Wow! The palate is surprisingly fresh and focused, adding great bramble and North African spices…Branche Marocain? The finish is huge – though the tannins are sweet not searing – contributing to a wine experience that really doesn’t require food to be wonderful.

**++J. Fritz late harvest zinfandel, 1994: Liquid chocolate. Really, this is really only slightly more full blown than the Martinelli – same black cherry liqueur housed in a dark chocolate casing. Very port like, without the depth and concentration of great port. Nice with a dessert.

***Ridge Pagani Vineyard zinfandel 1991: Surprisingly supple and integrated. The fruit is mature but not cooked. Briar and chocolate. Marzipan on the palate. Nicely resolved, slightly sweet finish. Drink up.

***Ridge Pagani vineyard Late Picked zinfandel, 1992: The first of the blockbuster, super extracted zins. Similar to the Martinelli, perhaps lacking the freshness and the depth on the finish. Black cherry liqueur. Chocolate, hazelnut cream. Thick. Fun wine.

**+Ridge Pagani vineyard zinfandel, 1993: Ok – If perhaps a bit thin and racy. A field blend including the usual suspects. Red, cherry fruit, spices and Malabar pepper. Very varietal. Not bad, but not wonderful either. Over oaked a bit. Spicy finish.

**+Ridge Lytton Springs zinfandel, 1993: I have officially fallen out of love with Ridge zins. Similar to the Pagani – some petite syrah, mataro, alicante, etc…Racy red fruit, plum, thinning, pepper, bitter chocolate and nutmeg. Has a bitter stalkiness that I assume comes from new American Oak. Just OK.

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