Wine of Merit: ***+Babcock Grand Cuvee Chardonnay, 1998: Continues to be a big crowd pleaser. Mature, golden hue, amazingly aromatic, lemon custard, oily, linseed, popcorn and toast. Nice. Buy more? I already did, for near term consumption. Corton Charlemagne who?
***+Kalin Cuvee DD 1992: Hard to believe this wine has maintained its structure over this long a haul. Yet it is all finesse and elegance, requiring lots of air to bring out its fragrant bouquet of rose petals, sweet, laser-focused lavender and candied violets. A little racy on the palate, red fruit, spice box. Still very firm, no drop off. I don’t think it will progress more, but should hold for a while yet. Nice.
***Jasper Hill Georgia’s Paddock Shiraz, 1995: Initially very closed, to the point where I thought this wine was past its prime. With time it gives it up, revealing incredibly pure candied, blueberry and raspberry notes, some green olive. A bit thin mid palate with black fruit, brine cured black olive, pepper, sage and lavender. Sugary, blueberry on the tannic, somewhat short finish. Smoke ‘em if you got ‘em.
***+Flowers Andrea Gale Chardonnay, 2001: Very different, equally delicious. Pale Straw hue. Bright, orange and lemon zest, candied fruit, some grassiness, more bracingly acidic, though nicely balanced. More serious, less flamboyant. Super good. Buy more? Again, I have plenty and am glad of it.
***Penfolds Bin 707, 1992: Very expressive and hitting its stride. Thick, opulent notes of cassis, cedar, plum and hazelnut coffee. Mocha. Unapologetically oaked but nicely integrated. A tad dusty. Nice.
**+Chateau Leoville Las Cases, 1995: Surprisingly demure and held back. Nice color and texture. Black fruit, minerals and spice. Some herbs. Needs coaxing. Probably a wine that requires more concentration than I could give it.
Beringer Bancroft Ranch Howell Mountain Merlot, 1992: Downright disappointing. I have had this wine previously and it has been my standard for new world merlot. Not tonight. Just not a lot there. Some violet, red fruit, mocha. A bit thin? Again, maybe not enough air and my 6th wine of the night. I will re-taste and am withholding a grade.
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