Our first stop was at a winery that needs no introduction. The wines of Peter Michael Winery are storied – with no weak links in the offering. Whether we are talking Les Pavots, the various top flight chardonnays or the definitive Apres Midi sauvignon blanc, most of the PMW wines define their categories. Further, they define gracious hospitality. Many thanks to our host Victor Aul
for a lovely tour and formal, sit down tasting. If ever the opportunity presents, a visit to PMW should be a focal point of any visit. To the wines:***++Peter Michael Winery, Après Midi, Sauvignon Blanc, 2005: In my humble opinion, there is no better new world sauvignon blanc. Stunning and rich, possessing varietal qualities of grapefruit, guava and anise but with much more richness and depth than typical. Bright but with a fullness on the palate and a lovely lingering finish. One of the best wines I had all day. Wonderful.
***Peter Michael Winery, La Carriere Estate, Chardonnay, 2005: Lovely. Rich and sophisticated. No surprise that this is very reminiscent of the Aubert chardonnays. Maybe I should say vice versa? Linseed, lemon custard, a touch of sage and candied orange zest on the nose. More of the same with deep minerality and spice on the coating palate. Lovely balance. Long, mineral-y finish. Dynamite.
***+Peter Michael Winery, La Belle Cote Estate, Chardonnay, 2005: A Personal favorite from this chardonnay stable. Brighter, perhaps better suited for aging, this wine reminds me of a dynamite Puligny Montrachet 1st growth. Stately. Bright citrus and orange blossom notes jump from the glass, married to a touch of petrol and a hint of nutmeg. The palate offers more citrus with slate and a touch of vanilla. Lovely and integrated, though a bit more bracing. Good stuff indeed.
***+Peter Michael Winery, Les Pavots, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: This wine surprised me a bit. Deep color to the rim, this young, mountain cab is nonetheless effusive from the glass. Notes of black and red berry fruit, church incense and bramble waft right up and assault the sense. Wow. The palate is a bit thick and unctuous, dare I say fat? It offers more black fruit, tar and bakers chocolate. Further along I am disappointed by a somewhat short finish. The wine tips the scales at over 15% alcohol! Almost seems like too much ripeness. I find this wine a bit over the top and I typically expect more from this wine.
Our second stop was Medlock Ames winery. It is nothing short of groovy. The honesty and enthusiasm that just gushes from Ames Morison, as he talks with you about his winery, cannot help but be contagious. Of course it doesn’t hurt that his wines are wonderful and expertly made. For a small winery, they have all the new doo-dads, with a gravity flow system, fancy crusher de-stemmers and stainless steel tanks, a chai that you might think was at Ch Lafite…the works. The big difference is that everything here is organic – down to the sheep and llama that keep the weeds down and the algae that grows on their pond functioning as fertilizer. I won’t rate the wines as they were from the barrel – but I will say that I bought some finished wines and signed up to receive more. This is a wonderful winery that deserves attention and support. We loved the time we spent there.
Medlock Ames Estate Merlot, 2005 (Barrel Sample): Delicious. Black stone fruit driven, with mocha espresso notes and chalky minerals. New french oak adds some vanilla and baking spices. Great depth on the palate and deftly balanced. I’m a buyer.
Medlock Ames Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 (Barrel Sample): My notes for the cabernet are similar to the merlot, with the addition of cassis fruit notes and a lovely black licorice element. Asian spice. Body is firm and dense, suggesting staying power. Yum.
Our last stop is a favorite: Verite Winery. I have commented on this venue and the wines in the past. They are stand outs from this area. Brian Baker was kind enough not only to meet us at the winery but bring along a bottle of the 2004 Anakota Montana bottling (I think)! All of the Verite wines are outstanding and deserve the accolades they regularly receive.
***++Verite, La Joie, 1998: The wine that started it all for me and still a crowd pleaser. Very
bordelaise in style and structure – I would have guessed 1990 Gruaud Larose if pressed. Lovely red and black fruit, herbs and soil elements add complexity and sophistication to this wine. Long and still strong – a wine to savor.***++Verite La Muse, 1998: Strong out of the gate. Surprisingly firm for a merlot based wine, it still offers up velvety lavender, espresso grind and red fruit notes. The palate offers a molten chocolate essence to accompany the fruit, with grilled meats and herbs. Yum.
**++Verite La Joie, 2000: Perhaps the weakest of the wines presented. Compared to the 01 and 02 versions of this wine, it simply had less stuffing, perhaps even a bit thin mid palate. Black brambly fruit and minerals are offered, if a bit reduced in stature. Finish lingers but does not offer the same level of intensity as the other wines being poured.
***+Verite, La Muse, 2001: Also surprisingly evolved, but still a wonderful mouthful of wine. Chocolate covered berry fruit, grilled meats, a touch of sois bois. Coating and delicious. Long, with firm, drying tannins. Serious.
****Verite La Joie, 2002: A stately wine, if perhaps reserved for cellaring just now. Great depth and harmony of flavor, showing mostly black stone fruit and chalk, pine needles and black licorice. Bottomless. Great Paulliac like in my opinion. Righteous.
****Verite, La Desir, 2002: Lovely and sophisticated. Tar, bramble, smoke and velvety crushed, berry fruit are evoked from this deeply colored, delicious wine. Hard to imagine this improving, but I am sure that it will. Superb integration of new French oak and deft balance. Great now, great later.
**Anakota, Montana, 2004: My first go with this wine. I am not a big fan. A bit over extracted and stewed. Thick licorice flavors and some tar. Almost Amarone like density. Not my cup of tea…or wine.
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