Monday, May 14, 2007

Wine Musings Vol#21

From notes taken June, 2006:

Wine of Merit: ***++ Camigliano, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Ladies and gentleman, we have a winner. Delicious. Elegant, refined, smooth (!) and well integrated. Black Cherries and apricot, wonderful minerals and grilled meats, saddle leather and some spice box. Right on. Great integration through to a firm but sweet finish. A real crowd pleaser. Mamma Mia!

**++Peter Michael, Belle Cote, 1997: Nice, burgundian – not as good as the 1996. Showing good linseed oil and popcorn, with butter and vanilla custard. Oily mouthfeel and a hint of madiera. Not as structured and the acids are not holding up as well as the 1996. Lovely if unraveling somewhat. Drink now.

***Monteallegro, Cabernet sauvignon, 1997: Only great bottles…This was nowhere near as good (read as complex) as the otherworldly bottle we had 6 months ago. Still lovely and very solid; red fruit, grilled meats, espresso grind notes. Slight thinness to the mid palate. Strong finish. Drink now. Given my prior notes, expect some bottle variation.

***+Argiano, Brunello di Monalcino, 1997: Lovely. Honestly, very similar to the Monteallegro, with a touch more depth and better structure. Red and black fruit, grilled meat, lavender, sous bois. Nice. Very Italian. Racy acids. I liked it very much.

***Ravenswood, Old Hill zinfandel, 1993: Not a typo. 1993! Bricking at the edge, but still holding on. Still very much holding its own. Lush, red plum, big white pepper and lovely floral notes. Soft on the palate with no drop outs and furry tannins. A good opener and easy to drink.

***+Rafanelli, Dry Creek zinfandel, 1995: Still plenty of fruit, with some interesting bell pepper and lavender nuances. Offers briar, white peach and racy acids. Solid and clean, to the firm finish. Yum. Worth drinking. Dry creek zin, when done right, is always a winner. I appreciate this old school style of zin making that allows for some bottle age without the prunes and heat. If you have it, drink it now and enjoy.

***+Biale Spenker Vineyard, Sonoma zinfandel, 1998: Just when I thought I was out, they drag me back in. Great wine. With age this wine has become lush, palate coating and deep. Aromas of earth, mature red fruit, cigar box and citrus. Palate coating entry and a resolved mid palate with more red fruit and briar. Long, chocolaty finish. Super.

Some re-tastes - I had a second 1997 Belle Cote that was superb and adds a star to my previous rating, ditto on a second 1999 Farrell Rochioli/Allen chard, perfect right now! -, a second 1995 White Cottage zin that showed beautifully, redolent with mountain zin fruit on the palate but was a touch musty on the nose and a second 1996 White Cottage Merlot that was yummy and very varietal (the Biale zin reminded me a touch of this wine). Also had a second 2003 Failla Keefer Ranch. Jordan should stick to red wine. Not bad, clearly in an old world Chablis style – good minerals and acids, bright and fresh - just not over the top wonderful like his pinot and syrah. At $33 a pop, it is overpriced.

**F&L Pillot Puligny Montrachet, “Noyers Bret”, 1997: A bit disappointing. Maybe it was the vintage as I have had this wine before with successful result. Varietal but rather flat. Typical citrus notes and some green wood elements. Touch of vanilla and white peaches. I think this wine was simply past its prime from an average vintage.

*+Chasseur Dutton Vineyard “Sylvia’s” pinot noir, 1999: This wine has been terrific in the past but has now become searingly acidic. The fruit is still there, mostly red fruit, cinnamon and rose hip tea, but it is so hot I have a hard time drinking it.

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