Monday, May 14, 2007

Wine Musings Vol#20

From notes taken June, 2006:

Wine of Merit: ****Neiman, Caldwell vineyard cabernet, 2002: Wow. This is really a lovely wine. A recommendation from the folks at Amanti Vino. Deep, deep, deep. Very expressive right out of the bottle, it offers valrhona chocolate, blackberry preserves, truffle and lavender. Minerals, graphite and black fruit on the palate suggests mountain growing. Isn’t Caldwell in Carneros? I am going to guess that this wine has as much merlot and/or cab franc as cabernet sauvignon – a “Bordeaux” blend that will in no way be mistaken for Bordeaux, given the fruit driven style. Lush, but in no way fat or flabby. I am guessing this wine will age gracefully, adding complexity and nuance, given its excellent balance and structure. I believe this is a Skurnik wine and not produced in large quantities – but it is definitely worth searching out and acquiring. The most difficult thing for me will be keeping my hands off of it to let it develop fully. Righteous!

****Galleron, cabernet sauvignon, 1994: I have commented previously on this wine. Drinking it next to the Neiman, it is stoic instead of sexy. Amazing that it continues to do so well. This time, the wine shows most of the already noted red/black fruit, sage and briar but also a bright, menthol note, as the mint really comes to the front. Not quite as seamless as last tasted, the finish is pronounced, exposing a slight thinning in the mid palate. Still explosive and worth opening at a special occasion.

***+Daniel, Bordeaux Blend, 1984: Before there was Napanook, there was Daniel – the second wine of Dominus. I believe this was one of Christian’s first vintages. Honestly, I had given up on this wine years ago, having found it, at the time (maybe 7 years ago) falling apart. Just goes to show you. This wine is fabulous. Very much in your face Bordeaux styled wine, showing old school Gruaud Larose like barnyard, mushroom, minerally black fruit and a touch of bell pepper. If I were to quibble, the mid palate is a bit thin (though it too offers big black fruit, minerals and Malabar pepper) and the finish is still searingly tannic, suggesting a lack of balance that I prize in all great wines. Still, it is formidable for what it is – a mature, well made cab based wine of great provenance (and a second label at that). After less than 30 minutes the wine begins to fall apart, showing mostly sweet, floral notes and mature red fruit. If you happen to have a bottle, drink it with a nice steak and consider yourself lucky. Well done!

***Bedford Road, Malborough, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, 2005: Bright and sassy. Still showing a sprtiz of Co2, this wine offers grassy tropical fruits, melon, beach nut and a touch of herbs. Bracing acids and a consistent mouth feel through to the finish. A crowd pleaser and lovely drink on a hot day – Amy LOVES it. Still not as good as the Kim Crawford Sauv Blanc that is my all time favorite QPR (you can get it for $10 a pop at PJs).

**Cline Bridgehead, zinfandel, 1994: A fossil. In an attempt to rid my cellar of old zin, I cracked this. Though it got a big number form RP back in the day, I found it stalky, weedy and unpleasant at release (those were the days when I bought a wine because RP said so. Thank goodness those days are over). Now it is just an angry, old wine – hot and acidic with some stewed red fruit, black pepper and chocolate. With air the heat kinda goes away making it at least drinkable. Good thing Amy cooks with wine.

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