Notes taken Febuary, 2006:****Barnett Vineyards, Rattlesnake Vineyard cabernet, 1995: Timeless, mountain cabernet. These are the Barnett’s best vines, right under the feet of the winery, on a severely sloped parcel @ 2,000 ft. elevation over on Spring Mountain. Beautiful balance, elegant black licorice, briar and berry fruit. A strong but integrated backbone suggests good structure for aging but it is tempting to drink it all right now. The youth of the wine makes the fruit the most dominant trait, with notes of tar and mineral just underneath the surface. New oak complements, but does not dominate. Great now, better in a few. $50 at the winery back in the day (now about $100) and easily worth it.
***Schoffit, Clos St. Theobald, Rangen, Gewurtz, 2000: Stayin’ sweet. This wine was a bit awkward awhile ago but has hit its stride perfectly. Bright, golden hue, the nose shows fresh beach nut, grilled peach and oolong tea notes. The palate is viscous but not heavy, showing more tropical fruit and honeyed spice. Finish is even with no bitterness. A great buy @ $25. Nice!
**++Domaine de Chevalier, 1996: Graves Bordeaux at a reasonable price ($39). At initial opening the wine exhibits some noteworthy bret, almost an old school Gruaud funk, which I dig but many do not. Extended airing and a few days vacu-vinned in the fridge lets us get more into the wine. Still a bit “barnyardy”, this wine exhibits lots of minerals and mature black fruit, with dark molasses, camphor and cigar box highlights. A bit feminine, there is also a floral note and soft lavender on the palate. Mid palate is thinning, though the finish is quite firm. A very good drink, if not as seamless as one might wish for. An old world claret that makes no excuses. While it will not come into balance, I think it will continue to improve with time. Very good.
***Pichon Baron, 1996: A very good effort for this well regarded, Paulliac Chateau. Developing aromas of tobacco, espresso bean and black fruit right from the glass. Still somewhat reticent, the palate seems a touch thin but firm, with more blackberry, smoke and graphite. I am betting that this wine will further develop and open up more with a few more years of bottle age, though I am not sure if it has the stuffing to really show the depth of character that this winery offers in truly great (1989) vintages. Buy more (It’s out there at $50)? On the fence – mostly because it is the boys’ birth year.
**++White Cottage Sangiovese, 1996: Cal Ital. I have always been a fan of Dennis Johns. He is exuberant and bright, and his wines are always ripe, fresh and delicious with excellent purity of fruit. The knock, if any, is that his wines drink young. I would say that they are delicious ( and yes maybe better) young, but age as well as most. Case in point, this wine. Initially very reticent, with time and air it shows coy mountain fruit and minerals, Malabar pepper, toffee and violets. Much less of the saddle leather and red fruit that it showed when young. The body of the wine is still firm and consistent through to the finish. It really has not developed tertiary complexity, just toned down some from its initial exuberance. Still worth drinking if less of a show. Seek out White Cottage wines and you will never be disappointed.
***+St. Clement Orropas, 1992: This is also a Dennis Johns wine. Named after the owners of St. Clement (Saporro spelled backwards), it is a meritage blend with its fair share of merlot (15%) and some cab franc. Maturing color, this wine has hit its peak, rewarding the patient. The nose of this wine is wide open, showing opulent, perfumed plummy fruit, potpourri, and crushed roses. The palate is rich, velvety and resolved, offering licorice and mocha to a fine finish. A St. Emillion styled wine from Napa Valley. Still very polished and not dull at all, this wine will not hold much longer and should be consumed now. Excellent effort for the vintage.
**++Domaine de Chevalier, 1996: Graves Bordeaux at a reasonable price ($39). At initial opening the wine exhibits some noteworthy bret, almost an old school Gruaud funk, which I dig but many do not. Extended airing and a few days vacu-vinned in the fridge lets us get more into the wine. Still a bit “barnyardy”, this wine exhibits lots of minerals and mature black fruit, with dark molasses, camphor and cigar box highlights. A bit feminine, there is also a floral note and soft lavender on the palate. Mid palate is thinning, though the finish is quite firm. A very good drink, if not as seamless as one might wish for. An old world claret that makes no excuses. While it will not come into balance, I think it will continue to improve with time. Very good.
***Pichon Baron, 1996: A very good effort for this well regarded, Paulliac Chateau. Developing aromas of tobacco, espresso bean and black fruit right from the glass. Still somewhat reticent, the palate seems a touch thin but firm, with more blackberry, smoke and graphite. I am betting that this wine will further develop and open up more with a few more years of bottle age, though I am not sure if it has the stuffing to really show the depth of character that this winery offers in truly great (1989) vintages. Buy more (It’s out there at $50)? On the fence – mostly because it is the boys’ birth year.
**++White Cottage Sangiovese, 1996: Cal Ital. I have always been a fan of Dennis Johns. He is exuberant and bright, and his wines are always ripe, fresh and delicious with excellent purity of fruit. The knock, if any, is that his wines drink young. I would say that they are delicious ( and yes maybe better) young, but age as well as most. Case in point, this wine. Initially very reticent, with time and air it shows coy mountain fruit and minerals, Malabar pepper, toffee and violets. Much less of the saddle leather and red fruit that it showed when young. The body of the wine is still firm and consistent through to the finish. It really has not developed tertiary complexity, just toned down some from its initial exuberance. Still worth drinking if less of a show. Seek out White Cottage wines and you will never be disappointed.
***+St. Clement Orropas, 1992: This is also a Dennis Johns wine. Named after the owners of St. Clement (Saporro spelled backwards), it is a meritage blend with its fair share of merlot (15%) and some cab franc. Maturing color, this wine has hit its peak, rewarding the patient. The nose of this wine is wide open, showing opulent, perfumed plummy fruit, potpourri, and crushed roses. The palate is rich, velvety and resolved, offering licorice and mocha to a fine finish. A St. Emillion styled wine from Napa Valley. Still very polished and not dull at all, this wine will not hold much longer and should be consumed now. Excellent effort for the vintage.
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