Wine Musings Vol#73

****Wine of Merit: Kosta Browne, Amber Ridge vineyard, Russian River Valley, pinot noir, 2006: Much has been said and written about the Kosta Browne pinots. I tend to agree with most of it. That said, the 2006s were not given the same drop-to-your-knees-not-worthy accolades. Candidly, I am not sure why. This wine is nothing short of wonderful. Deep, expansive, layered, it is a wonderful example of both the RRV terroir and the varietal. And the deft blending of clones is close to perfect. Clearly more clone 667 driven, this wine has excellent structure and a black cherry, cola primary element, complemented with wild strawberry, uva fragola and minerals. Wonderfully balanced and deftly integrated. Fine sweet tannins. I think this wine will nuance and build over time, but I can't imagine waiting that long. Delicious.

****Leoville Barton, Estate, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 2005: I am sure most will think this crazy early to drink this wine and I agree. It was more to set the benchmark as I have invested significantly in this wine and 2005 Bordeaux in general purely on others reviews. So is it worth the hype? You bet! Of course, in its present, hard-as-nails condition this is more about a preview then a full length feature, but it does tantalize. Serious, deep red and black fruit, cedar, graphite, minerals a touch of brier...this wine reminds me of a home run hitter all coiled up awaiting the high fastball. The palate is deep, deep, deep and offers an iron backbone front to back. Endless black fruit and mineral driven to a pronounced but perfectly integrated finish. I will put this to bed for another eight years or so and check in post hibernation. Exciting!

***++Realm, Beckstoffer Tokalon vineyard, Oakville, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: I was introduced to this wine via barrel sample at the Polaner tasting and fell in love. Great purity and focus. Lovely blackberry, cassis, cedar, a touch of black cherry...this wine is just stuffed with flavor. The palate is velvety, with more berry and chocolate covered espresso bean. With air, a slight green pepper element is added, which adds complexity. Lovely, coating, fine and firm on the tail end. A wine to savor and relish. Yum!

***++Cedric Bouchard, Inflorescence, Blanc de noirs "Val Vilaine", champagne, NV: I love Cedric Bouchard champagnes. The Roses de Jeanne is breathtaking. This wine is also delicious. 100% pinot noir with no dosage. Bright, floral, orange blossom notes soar from the glass. This is exubernace vinified. Lovely rose petal, strawberry, challah french toast...a full meal with bubbles. Acids are bright and cutting, from attack to the back of the palate. This is not the typical yeasty, doughy NV champagne we have all just learned to deal with (actually, this wine is from the 2005 vintage but Bouchard does not identify it as such on the label). It is a cut above. Purchased through garagiste, it is a dynamite wine that offers amazing QPR. A must buy.

***Fattoria delle Terraze, Chaos, Le Marche, 2004: I dig the wines made by the crazy Terni family and this fattoria up on Monte Conero. The Planet Waves bottling is wonderful. This is a wine made mostly of rosso montepulciano, with the other half divided up equally 25% syrah and 25% Merlot. It is decidedly new world, though unmistakably montepulciano based. Red berry fruit, Asian spice and herbs drive this excitable wine. The syrah adds blueberry and clove, the merlot a lovely candied violet and the new oak adds mocha, white chocolate and vanilla. Velvet mouth feel and integrated, spicy finish. Very nice, if perhaps a bit too much of a nod to more "international" wine making techniques. But it is from the Marche - and I love it!

Wine Musings Vol#72

Wine of Merit: ****Mount Veeder Winery, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1990: I miss this style of Napa wine. Balanced and thoughtful, lower in alcohol (13.5%) as was the style 18 years ago, this wine is still fresh and has added sophistication and nuance with age. Still surprisingly exuberant, maybe more confident than cocky. Blackberry preserves, olive tapenade, brier...this integrated melange needs little coaxing to show its stuff. The palate too is lively and full but never fat, showing more black fruits, minerals and baking chocolate. The finish is firm and fine. I think this wine is at its absolute peak. I can imagine that most of this has been consumed long ago by ye of little faith. For those few holdouts...patience has indeed been a virtue. Good on release, much better now. Drink now and celebrate.

***+Failla, Alban vineyard, viognier, 2006: A wine that I always relish, I feel that Failla makes one of the few acceptable viognier based wines in the new world (the other stand out for me being the Kongsgaard Vio/Rus). Still, it is not always up to snuff. The 2006 does not disappoint. Lovely, floral but still deep and concentrated. Lovely Provencal herbs accompany the orange blossom, hibiscus, candied violet and vanilla bean. Lovely mineral and citrus palate. Bright, spicy finish. Righteous. A great white wine change up and wonderful food wine to boot.

***Black Bart, Stagecoach vineyard, Napa, syrah, 2004: I enjoy wines made from the Stagecoach vineyard. Of course, at over 500 acres under vine, that is a bit of a generic statement. Still, the Krupp brothers seem to grow delicious fruit and those who source from it tend to make delicious wines. The Black Bart bottling is made by the Krupps themselves and is indeed a yummy, expansive, mouthful of Napa grape juice. Even given the size of the vineyard, I still get a distinct sense of place, that southern Napa mountain red/black berry fruit, bramble and mineral driven style followed by a slight, vegetal counterattack, with the cinnamon and clove from the whole cluster fermentation adding the final kicker. A dollop of co fermented viognier adds a floral, citrus note. The wine is big boned and coating, with a firm palate and a firmer, juicy finish. Big Black Bart. I know this is not supposed to be the visual, but as I sip this wine I can't help but conjure up Clevon Little riding into town with his fringed velour cowboy outfit and his Gucci saddle, waving to Count Basie as he rides by. Now that's style!

Wine Musings Vol#71

Wine of Merit: ***++Pahlmeyer Winery, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2006: Another chardonnay that I admire, often from up close. This iteration of Jason Pahlmeyer’s white wine concoction is less corpulent and flattering than I have typically come to expect. High toned citrus blossom, peach nectar, cardamom and Zuppa Inglese. The palate shows structure and focus, bright acids and Asian spice, even as it expands ad envelops. A wine I am happy to welcome to the table each and every time. Super.

***+Aston Estate, Clone 115/667, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2006: Big Ups to Thomas Rivers Brown. I know and love his Rivers Marie pinots. That said I knew this was a new wine from a new vineyard, made for someone other than himself (in this case Schrader). I am pleased to report that it is delicious. True to its Sonoma Coast rootstock, this wine is deep and brooding, but not heavy handed or over extracted in any way. Vibrant? Powerful? You bet. But still balanced, beautifully integrated and true to the varietal. I happen to love the 115 and 667 clones and know them intimately (I make a pinot using that same make up from the Amber Ridge vineyard in the RRV) and was quite pleased to see how each clone contributed in a clear, focused, unmistakable way to create a whole greater than the sum of the parts. The 115 offers lovely, deep, fragrant pinot aromatics of bing cherry, cola, floral tisane and cinnamon stick. The 667 makes up the stuffing, with darker fruit notes, blood orange, smoke, spice and a strong backbone. Generous mouth feel and a fine, tingly, spicy finish. A lovely wine and one that I will cellar with confidence and drink with pleasure. Well done TRB!

***Flowers Winery, estate vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2002: I have quite a bit of heart for what Flowers has accomplished out on Camp Meeting Ridge over the years. The wines are dense and complex, long lived wines that reward cellaring with nuance and added sophistication. This chardonnay follows suit. Lovely, bright citric fruit, tobacco and minerals. A slight autumnal quality. A definite sense of Sonoma Coast terroir. The wine is still taught and toned, showing excellent depth. Full, expansive mid palate and a long, firm finish. Top notch effort.

**++Two Hands Winery, For Love or Money, cane cut semillon, Barossa Valley, 2005: I find Aussie desert wine and French desert wine as comparable as Australian rules football and The Beautiful Game…which is too say almost not at all. One is about brute force and will, the other about grace and art and talent. So it is with this Two Hands semillon, which has been compared by others to a Sauturnes. Favorably. I don’t see it. Yes it possesses botrytis like sweetness, canned peach syrup, lichee, honeysuckle and jasmine. But the flavors and aromas are obvious and cloying, as is the mouth feel. The finish is a bit vague. Not that this is a bad wine; it is not. It is delicious…just delicious in an obvious way. And while it is much less expensive than top notch sauternes (what isn’t?), I think in this case you get what you pay for. A fun romp.

Wine Musings Vol#70

Wine of Merit: ****++Diamond Creek Winery, Gravelly Meadow, Diamond Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1983 : The Grand Daddy. I have a very soft spot in my heart for this vintner, this winery and this vineyard. To drink this wine now, 25 years after harvest, is to realize that ultimately Al Brounstein was a genius, perhaps even a prophet, was right about everything and knew more about how to make great wine than all of his critics will ever know in their combined lifetimes. Fresh as a daisy, more complex than a Stella, as true as the word of G-d, this wine moves me. Wonderful, nuanced elements of freshly butchered fillet of beef, iodine, smoky grilled red pepper, ripe red fruit, warm black lava beach pebbles, chewy licorice root, how this is a new world wine is beyond me. Pressed I would have guessed 90 Montrose! With time in the glass, out rolls the fresh broad leaf cigar tobacco, the note that consistently makes cognoscenti call this wine the Haut Brion of Napa. Full, beautiful, perfectly balanced palate shows more red/black fruit and minerals.
Not worthy – but grateful indeed.

****+Château Ducru Beaucalliou, estate, St. Julien, bordeaux, 1995 : True to form is this Ducru, the “super-est” of all super seconds in my opinion. I always find myself using the term “stately” when describing wine from this estate; this wine has excellent posture, dresses in the best fabrics and has excellent table manners! Brooding dark fruit, cassis, cedar, chalk, wonderful black pepper, violets and stony minerals…give this wine time to unfold itself in the glass and marvel at its layers. The palate is full on, bottomless, still primal but wonderfully balanced and staged. Same goes for the finish. A great wine to drink or hold. Lovely.

****Domaine de Chevalier, estate, Pessac Leognan, bordeaux blanc, 2002: It is true that if I had to be a white wine I would be a grand cru Chablis. That said if somehow Chablis were not available to me, I would be white Bordeaux from Graves with nary a whimper. I just love this wine's complexity, its style, its panache. Bright, aromatic lime blossom, fresh ginger, ripe star fruit (yes, that’s right…star fruit. I also thought it tasted like nothing until I had it in Mexico a few years back. Find it and try it!), honeyed tobacco and an undeniable fresh, ripe Crenshaw melon note all come together just perfectly. A nuance of celery root. Beautiful integration front to back, firm but never biting palate. So fresh! Long finish, with a touch of white pepper and Thai basil. Hard to believe this was $30 at retail. What a steal. Righteous.

****Château Montrose, estate, St. Estephe, bordeaux, 1999 : You know, Montrose is one of those wines. Always alluring, sometimes mind boggling, just the mention heightens the senses and stirs a certain anticipation. Ohhhh…the possibilities; often somewhat wild and savage (when it is at its best), this wine is not quite there yet, though very promising. Still very primal and perhaps even still working off its baby fat, it is magically delicious, beckoning with come hither qualities of ripe plum, fragrant violet and thick, zesty black pepper. The palate flatters…but one senses the muscle hiding beneath. The finish points even more to better days, firm and integrated. Somewhat still one dimensional, I get the sense that this wine will offer even more pleasure and nuance as it continues to age. Yummy now, I believe this holds delights yet to be sampled if one can just avail oneself of the virtue of patience.

Wine Musings Vol#69

Wine of Merit: ***+White Cottage Ranch, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Really I think this is the wine I was hoping for when we popped the cork on the Dunn 1990, perhaps with the added depth that Dunn is so noted for. Lovely. Nicely nuanced black fruit, bramble and licorice root. The fruit retains its White Cottage signature juiciness but has toned down the exuberance a bit. This wine really vindicates owner/winemaker Dennis Johns’ fervent point of view that wines need not be austere upon release to age well…the secret ingredient is balance. By the way, if you ever get a chance to venture out to the area, make an appointment to visit with Dennis. His exubernace is wonderful...and catching. 13 years out and the wine flows front to back with nary a drop out, offering wonderful mountain fruit flavors, integration, great mouth feel and a middle weight, peppery sweet finish that invites you back for more. And I will oblige! Delicious.

***+Aubert, Reuling vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2004: Having recently tried the UV vineyard, I thought it would be opportune to try the other vineyard designate, the Reuling. I find the wines to be similar. Big, powerful pinot noir. Not as abrasive or extracted as many of the recently popular Central Coast offerings (Sea Smoke, Melville) but still more masculine iterations of the varietal. Black cherry liquor, peppermint candy syrup, church incense, all commingle to create a heady mélange. The palate follows suit, mouth filling, a touch vague. And it brings the heat. Finish is powerful as well. I wonder if this will all come around with time…I am currently a skeptic. Candidly I appreciate the style…but it is not really for me.

***Ridge, Jimsomare ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains, cabernet sauvignon, 1994 (ATP): I will admit to not having a lot of success with the ATP program, which ended up being a kind of island of the misfit toys thing that Ridge did (maybe they still do) with small lots of interesting varietals, vineyards and blends. I am happy to report that this wine is one of the exceptions. Even though Draper suggests that this wine was more near term than not, the experience dictates that this is exactly the right time to drink this wine. Perfectly integrated, the wine still boasts lovely, feminine red berry, cassis fruit, spice and a fair touch of American oak. The palate is racy and lively but not overly so and very much a pleasure, perhaps adding a nice touch of minerals. Here again, no thinning in the middle, no drop off at the lively, peppery end. A lovely food wine with roasted rosemary infused poultry and some red potatoes. Very nice indeed.

**++Double Diamond, Bomber X, Lake County, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: As anyone can tell you, I am a huge Thomas Brown fan. That said, this wine is really not made in my style. And I know it is not the fruit, as this is pretty much the same area from which 75 Cellars makes their great QPR cab (see 75 cellars review). This wine is made more in the Plump Jack, Husic style with more extraction, chocolate covered raisin, plum and Asian spice style The palate is lively if a bit racy, the presence of oak pronounced, the finish firm with a touch of green wood right at the end. I know these wines are made by Schrader to offer a low price alternative to his estate wines. And I think many will like this wine very much and find it a bargain. But the 2006 letter just came out with a price increase to $30 a bottle…and I will not be ordering.

Wine Musings Vol#68: Cru Dinner (IV)

Wine of Merit: ****Alois Kracher, TBA #12, Weinlaubenhof, Burgenland, Austria, scheurebe, 1998: Ok…I cannot resist…it is the last flight of the night and given the wine’s considerable heft…this fat lady sings! Wow. If the Huet is light hearted, this wine really is the Viking helmeted, big bosomed diva, powerfully belting out the final aria in full voice. Huge, thick, orange blossom, honeyed tobacco, minerals, canned peaches…so good, so lush, so concentrated – so balanced! - …it is sensory overload and I just love it. I cannot discern any real grape varietal nuances to this…it is simply heavily botrytised dessert wine. And I am glad for it. Dare I say it? What the heck: Schweet.

***+Huet, Le Haut Lieu, Moelleux, Vouvray, chenin blanc, 1947: Much fanfare and anticipation accompanies this wine. I know some who have said it is the best white wine they have ever had the opportunity to taste. In that context I am left second guessing. The wine was in fact lovely. Amber in color, I was particularly impressed by how light hearted this wine was. I mean given the heavy residual sugar (by the way…what makes this wine “sec”? makes no sense to me) I would think this wine would easily tend to the overtly romantic, perhaps even the cloyingly heavy handed. Instead the wine dances and sings, maybe even skates, gliding effortlessly across the palate, while perhaps even humming a tune. But the aromatics were well beyond mature. Burnt sugar, dried white/yellow stone fruit, a slight herbaceous quality…none of this beyond what might have been hoped for. Very nice but lacking the sophistication and elegance one might have presumed a wine of this pedigree should possess. Middling finish. I have a feeling provenance of wines like these is especially important and would expect significant bottle variation. I can imagine this, if perhaps a bit more lively up front, to be an important wine. I should point out that others had this wine in their top 3 wines of the evening, so perhaps I was just fatigued at this point.

***Huet, Le Haut Lieu, Moelleux, Vouvray, chenin blanc, 1921: As serendipity would have it, Roy had a bottle of the 1921 Le Haut Lieu hanging out in the cellar, awaiting just such an occasion! Lucky us! Caramel toffee in color, my notes reflect the 1947…just less so. Perhaps a more pronounced minerality and an interesting smoky, toasted marshmallow and graham cracker sandwich, toasted on a campfire in the outdoors element. A $1000 s’more (without the chocolate)?! A fun experiment and experience…when else will I be able to duplicate this kind of vertical tasting? I think this is where a long evening with 20 bottles is probably paying a disservice to my ability to describe these wines. Still…this wine did not stand out in the flight for reasons other than its age and maturity.

**++Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume, chenin blanc, Loire Valley, 1971: I admit to being a big Quarts de Chaume fan. I enjoy how the folks at Baumard typically balance the sweet, unctuous nature of this wine with the vibrant fruited elements and lively mouth feel. That said, I was a bit let down by this wine. It didn’t really speak to me, or I should say that if it did speak to me I couldn’t make out very much of what it was saying. Typically focused elements of apricot, honeyed peach and petrol were at best a bit fuzzy; I found the wine a bit astringent on the palate and muted on the finish. I am not sure if this just wasn’t a great bottle, if the wine was a bit upstaged by the others in the flight or if 30 some odd years are just too many for a Quarts de Chaume. Pleasant and enjoyable for what it is (an old dessert wine) but not up to the standards other vintages have set.

In the end, I would say that the Jayer burg, the Trimach rieseling and the chablis were my top 3 wines of the evening. Those were followed in a second peleton made up of the Sine Qua Non, the Chinon, the Kracher TBA and the Margaux. What an experience. Thanks to one and all (espcially Roy and the Cru Crew) for making this an event not soon if ever forgotten. FIN.

Wine Musings Vol#67: Cru dinner (III)

Wine of Merit: ****Chateau Margaux, Estate, Margaux, Bordeaux, 1983: A lovely wine that can easily get lost in a crowd if one isn’t attentive. The 1983 is a special Margaux vintage and this wine held its own. Suave, velvety, nuanced, this was a meal-in-a-glass that however must be consumed with the best table manners and white glove service. Red fruit driven, with hints of grilled meat, smoke, cassis, tagine spices and flowers, I was happy to slow down and focus a bit on this lovely, sophisticated prima donna. In reality this wine is more a grand damme, showing its age more than slightly, more full bodied than svelte, perhaps a bit stubborn but still in complete control of its faculties, still perfectly proportioned, silky smooth and still very much demanding of respect and admiration. Delicious and worthy of the accolades.

**+Dunn Vineyards, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1990: Somewhat controversial. Many loved this wine. I found something off about it. It seemed almost dirty to me, as if the filter used when taking it from barrel to glass was not cleaned well. Others were not so concerned – even placing it in the top 5 of the night. Beyond this detraction, I found the wine a touch vegetal, with some good cedar, minerals and brambly mountain fruit that seemed perhaps a bit dried up. The palate was firm and I thought a touch disjointed. Don Rice commented that he thought something was “wrong” with this wine…and I agree. I love Randy Dunn’s wines - I think the 82 Howell Mountain maybe one of the best mountain cabs I have ever had (next to the 74 Mayacamus)…but this one seemed lacking to me. Perhaps I needed to spend more time with it…but I just couldn’t bring myself to do it.

***+Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, Estate, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1982: While I am appreciative of all that Bordeaux has to offer, I am I think most appreciative of St. Julien. And amongst the St. Julien houses, Ducru Beaucaillou somehow seems to have my number. And among the great wines of Ducru, 1982 is the standard. So…I am always happy to crack a bottle of this wine. Solid red and black currant fruit, cassis, cedar, broad leaf tobacco, a touch of loam and spice, this wine has wonderful depth and flavor. Coating and layered upon entry, the palate introduces melted black licorice and an excellent mineral profile. A smidge of a drop off mid palate may be this wines only flaw. The finish is furry and sweet and seems to last longer than a wine made in my high school graduating year has any right to presume. Lovely and a rarity in this day…something you can bank on and trust to perform. Delicious.

Spring Mountain Vineyards, Estate, Spring Mountain district, cabernet sauvignon, 1978: I include this only so as to be thorough. This wine was corked. As is typical, much convo ensued about “how corked” it was…for me corked is corked. I was surprised at how youthful and seemingly vibrant the palate was. Still, this is a DQ in my book. Moving on…

***+Peter Michael Winery, Estate, Les Pavots, Knights Valley, 1997: Les Pavots is a Bordeaux-like blend, mostly cabernet sauvignon, that tends toward high extraction and even higher alcohol content. In this case we are talking 14.8%. I have always found it fairly open knit upon release and have often wondered if it really had any aging potential at all. This wine is super ripe and a bit volatile. Prune danish, baking spices, iodine, kirsch and autumnal forest floor elements, this almost has Amarone-like qualities, which in and of themselves are not off putting…in fact I dig them, though I find the heat distracting. The palate feels at once a bit thin upfront and then fat and vague from the mid palate on…perhaps a wine that is best consumed sooner rather than later. I think that the Sonoma Mountain fruit could probably present a more integrated, balanced picture if the wine was treated more even handedly. As it is it is yummy, but perhaps a bit too manufactured.

Wine Musings Vol#66: The Cru Dinner (II)

Wine of Merit: *****Henri Jayer, Vosne Romanee, Cros Parantoux, 1er Cru, Cote D'Or, 1990: The undisputed wine of the evening and really a benchmark for every bottle of wine I have had to this point. Ever. One quick dip of the nose into the glass pricks the senses, immediately pointing to something ethereal and rare. Burgundian elements of ripe black cherry, rose petal, fresh soil after a light rain, a mixture of freshly ground nutmeg and a touch of Indian spice…a nuance of exotic Mariage Freres fruited white tea...white truffle? With so much to offer upfront, I approached the palate with some trepidation. It does not disappoint. Full but perfectly delineated, one almost rushes past the signature fruit, forest floor, pepper and green tea… buoyed by the otherworldly palate feel and balance. It seems effortless, fresh and serene, somehow reminding me of walking the beaches of Anguilla at nightfall while the ocean layered caressing wave break upon wave break on the white sandy shores. This wine transported me that way. Long, spread out finish that just fans as it leaves its impression on the palate. And perhaps the most amazing thing...It somehow improved with food, the acidity and mouth feel of the wine binding itself to the flavors of the meal to contribute to an even greater high. It was not me who called Burgundy the Cocaine of wines…but I see it. The Grail.

***+Aubert, UV vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2004: The shame of having to be paired with the Jayer wine. Almost a crime. A high school prom queen introduced next to Catherine DeNeuve in her prime. Still, one must appreciate what it has to offer. Deep, lush Sonoma Coast sugar plum and blackberry fruit, floral violet, black cherry liquor and necco wafer sweetness, a touch of pine needle and forest floor, this wine is made in much more of the now very popular Robert Parker-esque pinot noir style. But while it skates dangerously close, it restrains itself from crossing that pinot-becomes-syrah edge that many Sonoma and Central coast pinots dash right over. I would describe the palate as rubenesque – full, rich and generous, tending toward fleshy, with more of the black cherry and baker’s spiciness, complemented by a small, lingering heat wave as the finish retreats off the tongue. I believe Robert Parker called this wine prodigious…and I will give it that. Similar to the Marcassin, a wine to appreciate if not enjoy. I brought this wine to the dinner and candidly felt punked by the Jayer inclusion…though, as Leopardi once put it – “…il naufragar mi e dolce in questo mare” (…being shipwrecked in this sea is sweet to me).

***+Charles Jouget, Clos de la dioterie, Chinon, 1990: I just loved this quixotic, wonderfully ebullient chinon. Not that it had bubbles…but it had energy and panache! Bright, effusive briny, green olive jumps from the glass. It is so fresh and focused. Under ripe blueberries, fresh sage, maybe a touch of cigar smoke and minerals…super interesting. The palate flows like a brook; light to medium weight, intense and vivacious. Good sap and a lovely if surprising black cherry sweetness mid palate, accompanied by more pronounced violet/lavender that reminded me of that C Howard violet gum that you don’t see anymore. What a great expression of Cabernet Franc. Terrific.

****Sine Qua Non, In Flagrante, Central Coast, syrah, 2000: Another amazing wine. I love all of the SQN wines…and I loved this one too. Deep, almost bottomless expression of black fruit, licorice root, Malabar pepper, shoe polish and wet slate pour from the glass. The co-fermented viognier and very healthy dose of new oak contribute wonderful floral and vanillin nuances. Nothing shy here, this wine is a colossus…but I would venture the friendly giant sort. I admit that this syrah may lack the deft balance and touch of an Eric Texier wine, but I honestly don’t think that is what we are going for here. Not to say this wine is not at once silky and exuberant, stuffed but still wonderfully integrated, muscular but well proportioned…in my opinion it is all of those things. It is just that this wine is made to be a romp, a tussle and not a ballroom dance. I mean, just look at the label! Great juice that must be appreciated and yes enjoyed for the flight of fancy it is. I will buy as much as they (Robb) send my way and be grateful for it. Perhaps not quite as good (meaning polished, integrated and nuanced) as the 1996 Against the Wall, but a signature wine nonetheless.

Wine Musings Vol#65: The Cru Dinner

The following wines were served at one sitting at Restaurant Cru in New York City (www.cru-nyc.com). Many were brought to the table by the restaurant owner Roy Welland, who joined us for the evening in Cru’s private cellar dining room. While these kinds of events are wonderful, they make tasting note taking almost impossible, so I apologize in advance for perhaps less than comprehensive notes in some wines’ regard. The notes are not in order of merit, but in the order in which the wines were poured. Further, as there are 20 or so wines, I have broken them into 4 volumes, with natural breaks, which I will post on consecutive days:

***++Bollinger, RD, Extra Brut, Ay, champagne, 1988: Roy is a champagne aficionado, and started us off with two wonderful vintage champagnes, the Bollinger RD 88 and the 81, from magnum. Both are lovely. I tended toward the newer vintage as it showed more of that yeasty richness that serves as the trademark for this house. Surprisingly youthful and vibrant (I believe this wine was disgorged in 2001), the wine shows off a wonderful mousse and fine, energetic bead. That thick yeastiness is accompanied by notes of zesty candied lemon, tropical nuts and wet stone. The palate offers wonderful, rich texture, more citrus, hazelnut and ginger and a fine, pronounced spicy, mineral finish. Super. Perhaps not as sophisticated and bold as the Sir Winston (my fave) but a great example of wonderful vintage champagne.

***Bollinger, RD, Extra Brut, Ay, champagne, 1981: Rather than post comprehensive notes on the 81, I will simply say that my notes were fairly consistent with two important differences: A clearly more malic, green apple profile, more of a mineral impression and a somewhat reduced palate and finish which makes me sense that the wine has peaked and should be enjoyed now and in the short term. Still, a wonderful glass of bubbly.

Wine of Merit: *****Trimbach, Clos St. Hune, Alsace, riesling, 1990: Breathtaking. Another Roy offering. I have to admit to being bowled over by this wine. Really. Even just conjuring up the sensations required to write these notes makes me a little misty. It’s just that I was nowhere near ready for how amazingly complex, nuanced, perfectly integrated, fresh and profound this wine was going to be. This wine is at once unctuous and gossamer, showing off perfumed notes of Anjou pear and perfect white peach, lily of the valley, orange blossom, a hint of delicate, Madagascar pink peppercorn, a light wafting of petrol. Just amazing. The palate coats and glides, viscous and fluid, perfectly weighted, perfect acid backbone, the perfect touch of lemon, lime, meringue. Perfect follow through. Long mineral finish. Ageless. Haunting. And perfectly paired with the most wonderful, butter-like, wafer thin sashimi I have ever had (kudos to the Cru Crew!). Available at $400 generally speaking at retail. Somehow a steal.

***+Marcassin, Zio Tony Ranch, Sonoma, chardonnay, 2003: I think this wine epitomizes the difficult relationship I have with Marcassin wines. On the one side the flavors are powerful and intense; a daring, vinous tour de force. A Corton Charlemagne on steroids, this wine assaults you with huge amounts of linseed, buttered popcorn, nutmeg, petrol, limoncello and powdered sugar. On the other hand I find the wines blousy and hot, in this case resulting in diminished, carmelized, candied fruit and a blurred, vague palate profile. It is almost like the winemaker can’t help but turn it up to eleven, even though a more dulcimer tone might actually do the fruit more justice. A fun wine to taste and appreciate, but a difficult wine to enjoy.

****Kongsgaard, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2004: Betting more on balance is the Kongsgaard. Perhaps not as in your face, this wine (immediately a consistent favorite of mine) offers more focused characteristics and a much more integrated, balanced palate. No mistaking it for a Burgundy to be sure…simply a wonderful expression of Napa fruit with wonderful depth and excellent layering of flavors through to a spicy, long finish. I have posted on this wine before and the notes are consistent, though serving this wine with the Trimbach and the Blanchots Chablis perhaps brings it to earth a bit. Still – I am happy to cellar this and would still consider it the standard in California chardonnay.

Wine of Merit: *****Domaine Francois Raveneau, Blanchots, Grand Cru, Chablis, 1996: Here again, Roy serves a wine that sets the benchmark. What class. What stature. What purity. Drinking this wine makes me think of the first time I saw Michelangelo’s David; perfectly proportioned…chiseled perfection. This wine must clearly be at its peak, I cannot imagine it getting better – though it seems ageless and bright. High toned elements of white hibiscus, Asian pear, Meyer lemon, liquid minerals…the definition of Chablis. Somehow this wine is at once austere and welcoming. The palate has bracing acids but they are never off putting or hard-edged and the finish offers more long minerals and peppery lemon fruit. Wow. I have to say, Chablis still offers amazing value for what it delivers. I have invested heavily in 1996 grand cru Chablis (my boys’ birth year) and am glad of it.

Wine Musings Vol#64

Wine of Merit: ****+Domaine Paul Autard, La Cote Ronde, Chateauneuf du Pape, 2003: Wow! I have previously posted with great admiration of and appreciation for this wine and winemaker. Truth be told this wine is simply at its pinnacle and garners even greater praise. While both this and the Moncayo (see below) are based on the same varietal that is where the similarities end. This wine is all about sophistication and nuance, with deftly integrated elements that come together to create a masterpiece. Layers upon layers of boysenberry, pipe tobacco, fresh virgin olive oil, black nicoise olive tapenade, lavender and violets, pink peppercorn (I know I can’t believe it either!) all distinct and intact come together like a delicious meal would with perfectly harmonious ingredients. What a masterful wine. The flavors integrate just as well on the coating palate, where the peppercorn and fruit elements play more center stage. Just perfect integration and balance with a tremendous, spice infused finish, all of which bode well for future aging. Given its avails at under $50, I can’t speak highly enough of this wine. I would buy more before Jean-paul Autard becomes the next Paul Avril! A real pleasure.

***++Chateau Duhart Million, Domains Barons de Rothschild, Paulliac, Grand Cru Classe, Bordeaux, 2000: From magnum. Just a dynamite wine. Hard to believe that cali cab makers are fronting 1st vintage “cults” for over $100 a bottle when stuff with this provenance and pedigree can be had for 40% less eight years after vintage. To be fair, this wine has received tepid reviews which I am sure have kept the price down. Our luck – I would buy some before RP checks back in on the wine again (his scores have gone up every year he has re-tasted this wine)! Anyway…to each his own. With 2 to 4 hours of air this wine opens to reveal layer upon layer of velvety, rich pipe tobacco, cassis, blackberry, blood, grilled meats, cinnamon and licorice root. More black fruit and super liquid minerals on the muscular but very approachable palate. Deft balance and integration right through to the fine, almost sweet finish. Sure, this wine can be put away and it will age and nuance…or it can be enjoyed now for its exuberance – with lots of decanting time. A wine that can be had with a nice piece of red meat and then pondered through desert and beyond. A winner.

***++Newton, Unfiltered, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2003: I am amazed at how good this wine is for the price. Full throttle chard to be sure, but never out of balance and very nicely integrated. Meyer lemon, crème brule, popcorn, baking spices, mission fig…super. Some nice liquid minerals on the palate and a hint of herbs. Long spicy finish. Drinking great at age 5. Yes, this wine lacks the nuanced nature and great structure of wines made by Kongsgaard and Aubert – but for $40 a pop? It’s a no brainer.

***+Guigal, Brune et Blonde, Cote Rotie, 2001: Another wow wine. I love this wine. Wonderful complexity. Tar, grilled meats, racy red currant, rose petal, pepper and spice. Just delicious. Deft balance. Great flavors of mature red fruit, minerals and pepper. Lovely integration front to back. Long, stuffed finish. Just a great example of more and more my favorite wine region. A great buy when you realize that the single vineyard Guigals cost 5x as much.

***+Pride Mountain Vineyards, Estate, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2002: Yummy. This wine very much reminds me of the Bryant Family style; Lush, thick blueberry preserves, a touch of banana cream, valhrona chocolate, baking spices and so much hazel-nutty, vanilla new oak you are not sure whether to drink it or pour it on top of vanilla ice cream. Coating palate, warm, medium finish. Completely open knit, delicious and a wonderful romp…It is so easy and silky on the palate almost drinks itself! But – like the Bryant Family wines themselves – I cannot imagine paying hundreds of dollars a bottle. To me this is a wine to enjoy with a smile and a nod to Robert Parker and his “gobs and gobs of hedonistic fruit” international style (if pressed, I would have guessed Aussie for this wine)…not something to search for like the grail, as folks do with Bryant Family and Mollydooker. Still…lovely!

***Antinori, Tignanello, IGT, Toscana, 2000: Now that’s Italian. Probably one of the more average vintages for this grand daddy of the Super Tuscans, it still reverberates with the essence of Tuscany and its homey varietal, Sangiovese. Bright , spicy mulberry and pomegranate, traditional elements of saddle leather, grilled meats and a wonderful violet tone, this particular Tignanello is velvety, forward and forthcoming…a delicious Tuscan red that adds weight and sophistication in better vintages. Nice medium long finish. A wine to be enjoyed sooner rather than later in my opinion.

***Alto Moncayo, Campo de Borja, granacha, 2005: Another Spanish Robert Parker recipe wine. Not to say that this wine is not delicious in a full throttle, over the top kind of way but it is sad to see this phenomenon creep across the globe. First California, then Australia, then Spain (it is no surprise that Dan Phillips has his hand in this wine)…each learning that over extraction, high alcohol and flogging of new oak garners big scores and with them big money. To whit: Thick, jammy blueberry preserves, vanilla, thick bittersweet chocolate, even some overripe bananas just launch themselves from the glass. The palate is fat and thick, reminiscent of blueberry infused maple syrup (brought on no doubt by the 16% alcohol this wine fronts). The finish continues with intense fruit and fine tannin, integrating nicely with the lush, mouth coating entry. A cartoon like wine (I always think of Willy Wonka when I have these wines) that I enjoy drinking every once in a rare while. In the meantime, I’ll take a CVNE Imperial to go!

Wine Musings Vol#63

Wine of Merit: ****Keller Estate, Precioso, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2005: From magnum. I admit to buying this more out of curiosity than anything…there are not a lot of wineries with estate fruit in the Petaluma Gap…and my curiosity was rewarded! Wonderful, integrated white flower, Asian pear, mission fig and lemon zest notes emerge with the perfect amount of weight and concentration. The palate is equally well balanced, gliding from front to back without effort, adding minerals, lemon curd and then nutmeg and vanilla bean. The finish is medium-long and spicy…just the right kiss of oak. Wow! Nicely done. A wine I would happily drink on regular occasion.

****Mount Mary, Quintet, Lilydale, cabernets, 1994: I am not sure I understand the controversy surrounding Mount Mary. I think it was the same kind of grudge that Robert Parker held against Diamond Creek for all of those years – completely unsubstantiated. These are expertly crafted, deep, inspired wines. As last I found the wine a bit hard and nervous, this time I decanted and gave it some time to settle down. Perfect move. This wine is regal. It offers an exhilarating convergence of Gruaud Larose complexity and nuance, Mouton black fruit and mint and Aussie intensity and grip. All laser focused and finely delineated. The palate is bright and lively, never shrill and emphasizes plum, red fruit and minerals while maintaining excellent depth and athleticism. The finish is firm and in place for the long haul. A serious, stately wine that could be featured at any special occasion.

***+Melville Winery, Clone 115 Indigene, Estate vineyard, Central Coast, pinot noir 2002: I am typically not a huge fan of the Melville house style. I find the wines over extracted and more syrah-like than pinot noir. That said this is a very fine wine that many will appreciate and like. Perhaps a bit too deep and firm for my palate, nonetheless it shows off clone 115 characteristics with verve and panache. Deep, deep red currant fruit, Malabar pepper, cinnamon stick and licorice root notes brood and waft. The palate is unapologetically big-boned and thick, the finish long, peppery but still silky, with none of the off putting heat I have experienced with Melville in the past. Expertly crafted in the bold-and-the-beautiful style of pinot. One of the better Melville wines I have had.

***+Melville Winery, Terraces, Estate vineyard, Central Coast, pinot noir, 2002: In much the same vein as the Clone 115, the Terraces bottling is full throttle and deep, nuanced this time by a sweetness, candied orange zest and allspice. With time in the glass this wine seems to converge around a pronounced wintergreen element that almost makes it one dimensional. The palate is vibrant and perhaps not quite as full as the Clone 115, still offering a base note of black cherry liquor and that can’t mistake it wintergreen note. The finish is long and spicy. Finely crafted and very pleasant to drink.

Wine Musings Vol#62

Wine of Merit: ****+Araujo, Eisele vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2003: Wow. Just majestic. I have a very special place in my heart for this wine. I love the way it imparts the terroir of the Eisele vineyard, with its broad leaf tobacco, deep, lush red and plum fruit, its chocolate mint and its autumnal, peppery sandalwood. Great, almost endless depth, great, flinty minerals, this wine is still young, primal and brooding. Striking and hewn across the mid palate, this wine has an endless reserve of strength that it can and will undoubtedly call upon as it continues to age. The finish is fine and furry but here again clearly built for the long haul. A wine that will offer great enjoyment anytime it is opened from now thru the next few decades I am sure. Wonderful.

***++Domaine des Comte Lafon, Mersault, Burgundy, 2004: I have been less than impressed by some Comte Lafon wines in the recent past, but this delivers. Offering lovely, nuanced complexity, this wine is all bright lemon curd, key lime, verbena, marzipan and a vanilla bean, with a pear crème brule thing that I just find delicious, all with lithe weightless yet vibrant intensity. The palate hints at minerals and moves front to back with silky smoothness, integrating more candied citrus and white fruit elements with little effort. The finish has a perfumed spiciness, with a candied ginger lingering sensation. Just a dynamite, delicious wine. Loved it.

***Pali Wine Company, Inman Olivet vineyard, Russian River Valley, pinot noir, 2006: Delicious. This wine is made by Brian Loring. I typically dig his wines so I thought I would give this one a try. I was first intrigued by the screw cap. Not typical on a $50 bottle of wine. I like the pluck! The nose of this wine is still primal and sorting itself out. That said, there is no doubt it is an RRV wine; all bright black cherry, cola, cream and green tea. The palate adds Malabar pepper, Kenyan coffee and nutmeg. Racy and a tad nervous, the acids are bracing and lively, though the mid palate is a bit vague and a tad medicinal, surprising for a low alcohol wine (13.9%). The finish is also lively, peppery and medium long. Nice!

**++Miner Family, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2001: A nice quaffable glass of red wine. Age has helped this wine soften and nuance, offering red raspberry and black fruit, dark, dusty baker’s chocolate, soy and some nice briar. The palate is velvety if a touch vague and the finish is medium length offering lovely, integrated Asian spice and more chocolate. Really, a very nice food wine that I very much enjoyed. Yum.

Wine Musings Vol#61

Wine of Merit: ***+Chateau Beychevelle, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1989: Classic elegance. As a huge fan of southern St. Julien wines, I have always felt that Beychevelle should be capable of better things…the gravelly vineyards, the history, the vicinity to Ducru and Gruaud…and the 89 shows some of that potential. Not that this wine reminds me of the others mentioned…it is lighter, more feminine…perhaps more Margaux-like. Not overly structured or showy, this wine is instead sophisticated and nuanced, with lovely, perfumed red and black berry fruit, floral rose petal, chocolate mint and sandalwood incense spice. Lithe and clean on the palate it is still coating and offers nice integration, great minerals and balance. The finish is firm but fine and surprisingly long. A dynamite wine from an extraordinary vintage.

***Paul Hobbs, Richard Dinner vineyard, Sonoma Mountain, chardonnay, 2002: Full throttle…really all singing all dancing. Deep golden hue, thick, opulent lemon custard, linseed, candied orange zest, honeyed fig, hazelnut. Oily, viscous palate…a bit of heat on the long, spicy finish. 14.8% alcohol boys and girls. Huge wine. Not degrading but I am guessing perhaps even better on release. Still…Delicious!

***Flowers Winery, Estate vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2002: Aging gracefully. Golden hued, the wine is still vibrant and full of life: keylime, honeysuckle, marzipan, white peaches and minerals. Bright, racy palate, with more minerals and almond paste. Like the Hobbs, probably better on release but still very much worth drinking. Great!

**++Double Diamond, Amber Knoll vineyard, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: Experts only! Actually, this wine is very approachable and pretty wide open. Made for Schrader by Thomas Rivers Brown. Open knit and juicy, I do not think this wine is particularly age worthy. Pop and pour. Nice nuances of church incense, soy, chocolate and licorice, some rose petal, eucalyptus and sandalwood. The palate feels very Silverado Trail to me (it is actually Lake county), lively but already resolved, spicy, peppery with more of that succulent red berry / black cherry fruit. Very nice if not particularly complicated or sophisticated. A good glass of red wine over the short term. I also like the 75 wine cellars execution of this vineyard, perhaps even a tad more.

Wine Musings Vol#60

Wine of Merit: ***++Chateau Gruaud Larose, 2nd growth, St. Julien, Haut Medoc, Bordeaux, 2005: Wow. What a stately wine. Believe the hype for this vintage. I am a gruaud head and was surprised when my Dad opened this up – I imagined that it would be impenetrable at this age. Instead it was a joy. No question that this wine is still primal and still a brute – but it is perfectly balanced, limitless in its depth and well integrated front to back. Great black fruit, chalk a touch of loamy soil, this wine will progress and nuance as it ages. Now it can be enjoyed for its succulence, power and grace. Wonderful wine – I’m excited I got a case! What a buy at $50 a pop!

***+Eric Texier, Brezeme, Vielles Vignes Perqualt, Cote du Rhone, 2005: I have commented on this wine in the past and was less than overwhelmed. Well, it has hit its stride and then some. Wonderful, meal in a glass nuances and textures. Dynamite wine that offers so much more than what I think of as typical CDR (in fact it is 100% syrah). Rosemary, black olive, lavender, tar, scorched earth…just layers and layers. Lots of thick, ripe mixed berry pie just unloads from the glass. Wonderful, velvety mouth feel and considerable depth. Coating front to back. Fine, sweet medium length finish. Delicious and a great value. Drink or hold.

***Fattoria Le Puppille, Saffredi, IGT, Toscana, 2004: A remembrance of our recent trip to the Maremma …and what a wonderful concoction of cabernet, merlot and alicante! Initially a bit reticent from the glass, this wine filled out quickly. Like many of the French varietal oriented Maremma wines, the varietal nature of the grapes cannot but be influenced by the wonderful, exuberant “Italianess” that the Maremma imbues into its soils. Very much in a fruit driven style, the nose of this wine is juicy, ripe blackberries and sugarplums, floral lavender, rosemary and pine needles, earth and a wonderful, powdery “C Howard Violet Chewing Gum” thing that I adore and that fills the senses. Surprisingly, the palate showed some thinness in the middle, though it added a very nice black pepper and leather note to the fruit and flowers. The finish was long and chewy. While I often take serious points away for a lack of integration and balance, this was a very nice wine. I have read where some have afforded this huge scores…I would consider it fun and very much worth a romp. At $80 this seems upside down to me.

**Walter Hansel, Estate, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2002: Past its prime. Walter Hansel makes wines that impress a great deal at first blush – the term “burgundian” is often thrown about. Not this time. Tell tale dark golden hue. Wine offers lovely minerality , some white peach but mostly faded fruit and a touch of madiera. Lots of hazelnut from toasted oak barrels. Palate is still firm and a bit racy. Lots of spice and a slight bitterness on the finish. A style of wine that flatters in its youth but struggles with bottle age.

Wine Musings Vol#59

Wine of Merit: ***++Isola e Olena, Collezione de Marchi, Toscana IGT, cabernet sauvignon, 1998: Wonderful. This wine has aged majestically. I am not sure who the “Marchi” is but I love his collection! Very sauve and sophisticated, this wine is clearly Italian regardless of the varietal. More red fruit driven, with a small amount of aeration this wine adds layers of cigar tobacco, truffle, cocoa powder and vanilla. Perfect integration across the palate, picking up some briar and . Great, fine, velvety texture. Beautiful, sweet tannins to a medium long finish. Really a very stately wine. Beautiful.

***+Dyer, estate vineyard, Diamond Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: Notes I have read in the past have suggested this was a dynamite wine but also a wine to drink young. I did not find that the case. This is a taught, muscular mountain cabernet. Not reticent at all, though I would not call it open knit, the wine offers wonderful blackberry and dense minerality right from the glass. With time, tar, licorice root and briar add to the mélange. Wonderful depth, integration and laser like definition. Black fruit and more minerals on the palate, which seems almost limitless. Super long, finely detailed finish. Quite the tour de force! The friend that recommended this wine to me suggested it was a “better Harlan Estate”. In my mind it is more like a young 82 Dunn or maybe a 94 Gravelly Meadow Diamond Creek, but more approachable.

**+Saddleback Cellars, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1994: I have always been a big Nils Venge fan and this wine was from back when Saddleback was a brand new brand. Well along in the maturation curve, this wine is still expressive and pleasant but many of the signature elements are beginning to devolve. Telltale roasted red fruit, soy and chocolate covered raisin elements dominate, with added nuances of lavender and black licorice. The palate is still jammy and fairly long but showing some heat from the age. A wine that is still drinking but past its prime.

**+Davis Bynum, Le Pinot, Rochioli vineyard, Russian River Valley, pinot noir, 1995: This is a wine that never really came into balance. When young the tannic backbone overwhelmed the flavor profile. Now, the flavors have fallen apart and the tannins are just finally integrating. Too bad. Overly mature plum and cherry flavors with tomato skin, soy and barnyard aromas. Kinda like a very mature Pommard. Very rustic. The palate is still firm adding spice and baking chocolate. Finish is a bit cooked. A wine that has passed its prime.

Wine Musings Vol#58: Marche, Maremma and More

While vacationing in both the Marche and the Maremma (western Tuscany) I had the opportunity to visit a few wineries and try more than my fair share of local wines. Some were not DOC wines and while pleasant more foodstuff than wine. Others are well known and imported to the United States. The following are the highlights of the trip:

Wine of Merit: ***++ Fattoria delle Terrazze, Planet Waves, Numana, Marche, Rosso, 2004: This is a fabulous wine made by a wonderfully eccentric vintner. While it is not the highest scoring wine of the posting, it is a new benchmark for Marchigiana wines and thus merits serious attention. Numana is best known for its beaches – northern Europeans descend down upon the area every summer like Wagner’s Neibelungs, with their pasty white skin, addidas bathing suits and sandals with socks – not for its wines. The Rosso Conero that comes from there (named after Monte Conero) tends to be red fruit driven, floral and nice if somewhat generic. Not so Planet Waves. This wine is very much of the international style (the varietal blend includes Merlot in addition to the Montepulciano)…and yet it still sings of coastal Italy. Warm, effusive, generous, this wine is laden with berry fruit, violets, gaurrigues, church incense, black pepper and tagine spices. Lovely, velveteen mouth feel with excellent depth and lavish if well integrated oak. With so much going on, “Planet Waves” (the name is taken from a Bob Dylan song) is still very much in voice, all harmony and dulcet tones. I loved it and will search it out for future consumption. Che bella!!!

****Tenuta San Guido, Guidalberto, Bolgheri, IGT, 2006: While touring Tenuta San Guido in Bolgheri we had the opportunity to taste the newly minted 2006 Guidalberto. This is the Tenuta’s second wine, though it is NOT a baby Sassicaia (often a second wine is from young vines or from barrels that do not make first wine cut – this is not the case for Guidalberto). This is a wine of its own merits from different parts of the Tenuta (Tenuta San Guido is enormous – it includes an entire village). While in previous vintages Guidalberto (named for an early ancestor of the Marchese Incisa’s family) contained some component of Sangiovese, 2006 saw for the first time a wine made up purely of Bordeaux varietals. I will tell you I was mightily impressed. The wine possesses superb, serious depth, a knock out nose of black fruits, chalk, cassis, earth and briar. Great minerlaity, oak integration, balance and fine, silky length. I would put this wine up against most anyone’s cabernet based 1st wines. Wonderful and worth seeking out.

****Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia, Bolgheri, IGT, 2005: The best cabernet based wine made in Italy. 2005 made for warm, more open knit wines and that shows here. Much more sauvage than the cool Guidalberto, this wine almost reminds me of an 89 Montrose, with ripe red and black fruit, violet, smoke, scorched earth, grilled meats and blood aromas. A wild wine, though perhaps not as vibrant and powerful as great vintages of the past. I loved it at once but guess it will not be a classic Sassicaia. Still, a wonderful, serious wine with great body and length. Dynamite.

***+Tenuta Ornellaia, Ornellaia, Bolgheri, DOC Superiore, 2005: Tenuta Ornellaia is a gem, a beauty to behold. The Frescobaldi’s have done it up right. The tour of the grounds reminds me very much of the tour at Peter Michael Winery…the beauty, the grace, the manicured vines. Of course, the tour at Ornellaia is $75 a person, PMW does it for free(and pours more wine to boot)! Anyway to the wines. The flagship Ornellaia is made 100% from estate vines (though the Fescobaldis did buy a second vineyard, about 5 minutes away from the original Tenuta to double the area under vines). It is as always a Bordeaux oriented blend, mostly cabernet sauvignon, with blended Merlot, Petite Verdot and cab franc. This is a lovely, sophisticated, finesse wine. The vintage has mellowed it a bit and lessened the vibrancy and verve of this wine, making it in my opinion not quite up to the standard created by many of its amazing predecessors. Mostly, red fruit driven, I sense elements of violet, truffle and herb tea in this wine. The palate offers excellent minerlaity and a medium body and medium, nicely integrated length. A very pleasing wine that I will not be buying at $130 a pop.

**+++Tenuta Ornellaia, Le Serre Nuove, Bolgheri, Rosso DOC, 2006: I was not a big fan of the 2006 Le Serre Nuove. This wine is a traditional 2nd label, culled from the lesser barrels. The make up (more merlot and cab franc I think) makes this an even warmer, more open knit wine. I found it yummy but obvious, lacking that third dimension that gives a wine body, shape and nuance. A nice table wine that I think aspires to greater accolades but comes up short.

**++Tenuta Ornellaia, Le Volte, Toscana, IGT, 2006: The fighting varietal table wine of Ornellaia. I was not impressed with this wine either. It is made mostly of purchased, non estate Sangiovese. It offers a mouthful of plumy red fruit, black pepper, new saddle leather and spice box. Round, lush, unassuming…it is simply a good, not great glass of wine. Nice with food I am sure and fine to be served in a tumbler. A bit generic but correct in every way. I just think when you are trading on the Ornellaia name you should deliver more…

While in Montescudaio (PI) we also had the opportunity to try the wines of Cantina Fortitudo. These wines are not imported to the US but are nonetheless worthy of praise as they are delicious. I will not offer detailed notes as again they are generally not for sale but I will tell you that if in Italy (and Germany I think) they are worthy of your consideration. The 2 that I tried were the 100% cabernet sauvignon ***2005 Aurea IGT that was all blue fruit with complementary herbs and cassis, nice length and depth for under $15 bucks (a screaming bargain) and the very stately and sophisticated ***++2004 Caput Mundi, their Brunello di Montalcino (they own vineyards there) that was wonderfully elegant, mature red stone fruit, cigar leaf tobacco, floral violets and tisane…great lithe palate feel and lovely, long, silky finish (under $45). Really wonderful. If I were a wine importer I would find a way to bring these wines to the states. They would be received with enthusiasm!

Wine Musings Vol#57

Wine of Merit: ****++Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia, Bolgheri, rosso, 1988: A classic to be savored. Wonderful. Many have considered the 1985 Sassicaia to be one of the best Italian wines ever made…I have always thought the 1988 to be just as good if not even a better wine. Mature color, bricking around the rim. Initial nose of chocolate, raisins, mature plums and soy sauce. With time this wine opens and becomes more vibrant and expressive. Perfectly ripe blackberries, grilled game, a touch of garrigue and lavender, wonderful minerals, espresso, sooo…Italian. The wine, in my opinion, defines the “Super” in Super Tuscan. Velvety, fine, enveloping palate, seamless, perfectly resolved, lingering finish. I do not believe it is getting better per se, but is definitely riding a high. Superb.

****Barnett Vineyards, Rattlesnake Hill Vineyard, Spring Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Big, bold and beautiful! I have had bottles of this wine that seemed more advanced. This one seems youthful, sinewy and vibrant. Big, black and blue fruit. Cassis, mint/eucalyptus, smoke, vahlrona chocolate. Very, very deep. A big mouthful of wine, it is coating and furry front to back. Long, spicy, mineral finish. Black Malabar pepper. Wonderful!

***+Cedric Bouchard, Roses de Jeanne, Blanc de Noirs, Champagne, non vintage: Wow. Really lovely, bright exuberant sparkler. Ebullient mousse, fine bead, great nose of key lime, green apple, watermelon and ginger. Orange blossom. Brioche. Very vinous. Bracing, full and fresh on the palate. More citrus and strawberry fruit. Wonderful balance and integration start to finish. Just brilliant!

***Kathryn Kennedy, Estate Vineyard, Santa Cruz, cabernet sauvignon, 1992: Interesting and over all very nice. This winery has always marched to the beat of a different drummer. As such, it is no surprise that the notes on this wine are unique: bright pomegranate/rhubarb, tagine-stewed meats, exotic, Indian spices, moka harar coffee. Palate coating and at the same time a bit racy, blind I would not have guessed California cabernet (and it is 100% cab). Finish is silky and integrated. Delicious both for its unique signature and for its wide, open style.

**+Louis M. Martini, Monte Rosso vineyard, Sonoma Valley, zinfandel, 1987: A science experiment and…It’s alive! This was a commemorative bottling, celebrating the 100th birthday (1887-1987) of Louis Martini (who passed away in 1974). Honestly, I expected this wine to have passed away as well. And while no one will confuse it with the most recent Turley release, it is worth drinking. Surprisingly bright ruby hue, with bricking on the rim. Somewhat reduced nose of red fruit, rose petals, licorice with tell tale soy, tomato skin and a balsamic quality. Still, surprisingly fresh and clean. Bright palate with more red fruit, chocolate, black pepper, stewed meats. The finish still offers fine, furry tannic structure which finishes with a touch of sweetness. A nice, quaffable, easy going red.

Wine Musings Vol#56

The following represents a broad portfolio of wines all tasted across one afternoon. The theme of the tasting was to ascertain as much as possible how much terroir matters. Said another way, the tasting aimed to test if the now en vogue “international style” was making wines, even great wines, more and more generic regardless of wine growing region. To the wines:

*****Kongsgaard, The Judge, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2005: Once again, guilty as charged. My second favorite wine of the entire tasting…maybe even my first. Amazing intensity, complexity, concentration. Crème Brulee, anise, lemon custard, firm, long, mineral…I assumed this to be the Mersault Charmes simply because I guessed that wine would be superlative to the others in the flight. I buy this wine every vintage and am happy to pay whatever price is being asked. Simply Amazing. Wow.

***Domaine Vincent Dauvissat, La Forest, Premier Cru, Chablis, chardonnay, 2005: I thought this wine got lost a bit in the line up. Bright lemon, white flowers, wet hay, nicely malic, in the glass this developed a somewhat flamboyant sweetness which made me not think Chablis. Very nice.

***+Newton, Unfiltered, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2003: This wine is delicious and typically flamboyant, though perhaps less so when tasted comparatively. Similar notes to the Chablis…bright lemon, minerals, papaya, quite firm and spicy on the palate. Lovely wine.

***++Domaines de Comte Lafon, Mersault Charmes, Premier Cru, chardonnay, 2002: Delicious, if a touch disappointing. I expected this wine to blow me away…it did not. Honestly, it was kind of a diminutive version of the Kongsgaard, all of those things just significantly less so with a concerning and vague thinness mid palate. Some detected a vegetal characteristic or maybe even bret – I did not. Interesting to note this given the focus on terroir. Again, I loved it and thought it a great wine, just nowhere near as great as wine number one.

****Rochioli Vineyards and Winery, West Block, Russian River Valley, pinot noir, 1999: Absolutely wonderful. Deep, complex, fruit driven style, dark, black cherry, green tea, eucalyptus, a touch of barnyard, creamy, velvety palate. Great integration and balance. The sophistication made me think French, the fruit driven style French wannabe. Certainly a lack of the typical “cherry cola” RRV signature made me think anything but Rochioli. I guessed Marcassin. Wrong. A dynamite wine and renewed respect for the Rochioli family.

**++Philipe Pacalet, Chambolle Musigny, pinot noir, 2004: A quirky wine. Initially driven by tell tale whole cluster fermentation nuances like clove, cinnamon and vivid bing cherry, the wine evolved ultimately to be a dead ringer for Campari! Intense, blood orange and dried orange peel notes. With candied ginger and provencal herbs. Many found this wine unappealing. I enjoyed it for its quirkiness and would happily drink more of it. I would not, however, consider it a “serious” wine. Pacelet makes a point of his “biodynamic” farming methods and uses many of the “international style” vinification techniques. Interesting if not compelling.

**+Marcassin, Marcassin vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2003: Great label! This is my first Macassin pinot (thank you Barry) so I had no palate memory to go with. I assumed this would be a mind boggling wine experience, given the write ups from others. Instead I found the wine a bit thick and somewhat tired. Lovely notes of peppermint candy, sour cherry, black cherry liqueur and briar on the nose, the palate is creamy but a bit obvious, thick with alcohol and one dimensional. The style is lost on me.

****++Domaine Robert Arnoux, Echezeaux, Gran Cru, pinot noir, 2002: I thought this wine was just killer! Deep, complex, beautifully integrated, nuanced with touches of camphor and barnyard, young and beautiful (au pair-esque states J.C.!). Very firm, coating, minerals and white pepper on the mid palate with dark cherry fruit, tannins that still are beautifully integrated across the palate. Wonderful. I found this wine clearly from Burgundy…in all of the positive, great ways that makes Burgundy the cocaine of wines – expensive and worth it. This wine is around at $150…and compared to the Marcassin clearly a steal. My third favorite wine of the tasting.

*****Clarendon Hills, Hickenbotham vineyard, McLaren Vale, cabernet sauvignon, 2002: Amazing in every way. Mind blowing intensity. Powerful and yet nuanced and complex. I immediately thought Montrose…and then, with the deep, velvety palate Redigaffi. Blackberry jam, lavender, black olive tapenade, sauvage, tar. Wow. Palate coating, maybe staining but furry tannins and never out of whack. A wine worth searching for and coveting. Surprising in a very good way. Gary saw through to the provenance of this wine stating that it hinted of “new world vulgarity”. I don’t know what that means but I love it! My favorite wine of the tasting – and again available at a VERY reasonable $62 a pop if you look for it. I love these treasure hunts!

****Tua Rita, Redigaffi, IGT, Toscana, merlot, 2002: Another lovely, very special wine. Even though this wine is 100% merlot, it was not an obvious stand out amongst these wines. In fact, its signature was very cabernet like: cedar, licorice, mint, some chocolate and lavender. With time, the wine did show its telltale Vienna roasted espresso and lovely, floral red fruit and mineral notes but not right away (and these wines were decanted 3 hours in advance). The palate shows young, vibrant staining intensity. I loved this wine but would never have guessed Italian Merlot. Delicious.

****++Chateau Montrose, Estate vineyard, St. Estephe, Bordeaux, 2003: A much heralded wine. After the Clarendon Hills, my second favorite wine of the flight. It is a beast. “Ti-Tanic” exclaims R.F! Intense, brooding, mocha, black olive, grilled meats, oily and coating palate, loooong and intense on the finish. The only reason this was not my absolute fave was because I somehow think of Montrose as even more savage, more raw than this wine presents itself as being. I love Montrose and cellar it in pretty much every vintage and this one is among the best…but I would not put it in the same company as the 1990, another parker 100 point wine. Still…Wow.

****Pahlmeyer Winery, Proprietary Red, California, 2002: 75% cabernet, 22% merlot, made from a whole cornucopia of the best vineyards across Napa and Sonoma. Wonderful. “Purple-icious” (F.C.). Heady, fresh, juicy, fruit driven. Blueberry, baking spices, chocolate, cassis. Vibrant and still very primal. The immensity of the fruit made me think Aussie. Perhaps this wine is the one that most typifies what I think of as the divergence of new world vs. old world styles. Yummy without pretension.

****Eric Texier, Vielle Vigne, Cote Rotie, syrah, 2001: I have posted on this several times and thus will not go into too much detail. This wine sings. It is elegant but not fragile, sophisticated, nuanced…burgundian without losing any of its varietal nature. Balanced, complex, really second only to the Guigal La las in my opinion…fabulous.

**+Molly Dooker, Carnival of Love, McLaren Vale, syrah, 2005: Almost unfair to put this in the same flight as the Texier as the later magnifies every flaw in this wine. Lavishly oaked (I sense American oak), milky, fat, gigantic berry fruit, this wine is a cartoon. And while I am a huge fan of cartoons like Family Guy and Samurai Jack, this has none of those cartoons’ wit or whimsy. Still, I suppose fun to drink. Best thing about this wine is the label. I consider this proof positive of a serious flaw in Robert Parker’s ability to score wines correctly.

**++Cayuse, Cailloux vineyard, Walla Walla, syrah, 2005: Having read a great deal about Washington syrah being the next Cote Rotie, I expected much from this wine. While not bad, it really reflected just another new world syrah. Here again, whole cluster fermentation drives a clove, cinnamon, black berry signature, with vanilla and spice from the oak and a thick, pronounced palate feel from high extraction and alcohol. Very nice to drink, palate coating…but no one will mistake this for La Chapelle.

***Pax, Cuvee Christine, Russian River Valley, syrah, 2004: I expected the Cayuse signature from the Pax, but this is showing better than in the past. Still palate staining and over the top, it shows better integration even if hung on a massive frame. Not bad all in all. It is a wine I cellared out of curiosity and while it is worthy of appreciation it will not be replaced in kind.

****+Weinlaubenhof Alois Kracher, Trokenbeerenausele, Noble Wine No.12, Burgenland, Austria, 1995: Wow! This is a gorgeous wine. Not made in every vintage, this number 12, with its 200+ g/l of residual sugar and its 12 percent alcohol is much more Hungarian Tokai than it is French sauternes. Made from 4 or 5 varietals that I can’t even pronounce, let alone spell. Elegant, perfumed, laden with white and yellow fruits, amazingly concentrated yet vibrant…this really is gorgeous. Honestly, I dabbed a few drops behind each ear and put on my best come hither look for Amy…it didn’t work but it wasn’t the wine’s fault either. Very special. A fitting testament to a very special winemaker nee alchemist that we will all miss.

**+Chateau Climens, Estate, Premier Cru, Sauternes-Barsac, 1988: Sauternes is funny. The truly great ones transcend almost anything else you can drink. The rest leave you flat and unimpressed. This wine is nice but more the later than the former. Reticent nose of clover honey, full, velvety mouthfeel, perhaps a nuance of lavender, coating…Very nice but not special.

***Sine Qua Non, Mr. K The Noble Man, chardonnay, 2001: This wine is made in celebration of the aforementioned Alois Kracher, playing off of the Noble Wine name of the number12. What a great wine to include in this flight. Honestly, I expected the world given its price and my love for all things SQN. As such it disappointed a touch. Very nice, even delicious, it was no Kracher TBA. A touch flat, also honeyed, minerals and white flowers, an unfortunate slight bitter edge to the finish…I would gladly have more but will not be in search of it at the hefty prices that it conjures up. Another question mark in RP’s critical abilities…

***++Francois Pinon, “La Goutte D’Or”, Vouvray, chenin blanc, 1990: Lovely, white fruit driven and refreshing. Plenty of RS, this wine is still very much youthful and vibrant with great acids. Peachy, great minerals, long coating finish. I am constantly amazed at these Loire sweet whites. Their longevity, their quality, the freshness…why these wines are not as sought after as the average, flabby sauternes is beyond me. Delish!

All in all a great tasting. I loved the Kongsgaard, Arnoux, Rochioli, Clarendon Hills, Montrose, Redigaffi, Texier and the Kracher wines. They were all special in their own ways. In considering this elite subset, many were really not so much endemic of their regions as they were just amazingly well crafted, balanced, integrated wines. So, is terroir important? Given this group, I would say that sense of place clearly can be a very important variable within any wine’s formula for success (especially great wine), though it is hardly a barrier to greatness. And given that I did not hit the 50% mark on guessing the correct wine even in a single blind format – I usually do much better…honest! - perhaps there is some convergence in wine making world-wide that is putting pressure on that variable's importance.

Wine Musings Vol#55

Wine of Merit: ****Castello dei Rampolla, Sammarco, Toscana, Rosso, 1997: A tale of two wines. At first this cab based Italian is decidedly international in style – blind I would have guessed California merlot. Lovely, velvety red fruit, lavender, chocolate…a full coating palate with more yummy red fruit, licorice, chalk and café au lait…just delicious…but somehow a bit of a recipe wine. Amazingly with time, this wine changes completely. Two hours in and this wine introduces strawberry rhubarb, baking spices, soaped saddle leather, a touch racy, great minerality…now that’s Italian! Interesting how the cab works as a back drop – maybe more of a structural support platform - for the two other elements (Merlot and Sangiovese) that are actually very much in the minority in this wine. A real treat!

***++La Spinetta, Pin, Monferrato, Rosso, 1999: Masculine and sophisticated. This is still a very big wine, with I am sure decades of longevity left. It is however also balanced and nicely integrated, and thus wonderful to drink right now. Deep, thick blue fruit, some pine and lots of minerals on the brooding nose, this wine exhibits predominantly Nebbiolo characteristics up front. Palate coating, firmly tannic and evidencing integrated medium toast new French oak, the body is almost more Bordeaux than traditional Piemontese. With time, the Nebbiolo surrenders to at least an integrated element of the Barbera, introducing more traditional Italian red fruit and smoke. An extremely well crafted wine that I will continue to cellar with enthusiasm – and at under $50 an amazing buy.

***+Talty, Talty Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley, zinfandel, 2004: Talty is tasty! This was a new winery for me – and a welcomed introduction to be sure. This wine is all about freshness – one whiff and I can close my eyes and be transported directly to the Dry Creek, barrel sampling at a number of my favorite wineries up on Dry Creek Road. Very, very berry driven, this wine is laden with fresh fruit, herbs and minerals and packs a wallop of black pepper to go with (I understand there is a decent dose of Petite Sirah in here – I can taste it). Not overripe or hot at all, it is really about the freshness and a very light hand in the winemaking process. While my zin collection has dwindled down to a select few producers (Doug Nalle being chief among them) – this Talty wine gives me confidence to go back and see what else might be going on out there. Just delicious!

***Matanzas Creek, Sonoma County, merlot, 1990: Wonderful, mature Sonoma merlot. Made back in the day when this label was truly representative of the best merlot made in California. Deep, deep, perfumed black fruits, a touch of soy, spice box and church incense, including a hint of the lavender this estate has become so noted for. Thinning a bit mid palate, it still shows great black/red fruit and liquid minerals. The finish is still surprisingly firm if fine and sweet. Dynamite wine. Give it some air and drink up.