From notes taken February, 2006:Wine of Merit: ****+Didier Dageneau Pur Sang, 1996: Crazy Didier Dageneau. He makes great Loire whites! Calling his wine a Puilly Fume, which I guess it is, is like calling a Ferrari a Fiat (which I guess it is). Anyway, this is a 10 year old Sauvignon Blanc that is fresh, vivid and wonderfully complex. Out of the glass it is all about the freshness, with bright lemongrass, grilled grapefruit and fig. With time the wine unwinds to show more garrigue, the wonderful flint and wet stone of the terroir and even some tobacco. The palate is fresh and lively and deftly balanced to the perfectly integrated finish. Too young still? It boggles the mind. A Doug Polaner repped wine, by the way. Max, how does your brother rep all the best wines? Not for the meek – like $70 a pop. Try his other wine, Silex – it will rock your world (excuse the pun). And your wallet ($100+).
**+Williams Selyem Sonoma Coast, 1996: A bit tired. Maturing color, a bit hazy. Varietal. Ripe red fruit, cinnamon, green tea and cola. The mid palate is just right trending toward thinning. The finish is short and a tinge of green and slightly bitter spice belies the new oak it was barreled in (American?), now that the fruit is not there to support it. I think this might be the first release after Ed and Burt sold to the Millbrook guy. Smoke ‘em if you got ‘em.
Belland, Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot, Clos Pitois 2002: Funny how red chassagne montrachet has become the exception, not the rule. Used to be the other way around. Anyway, from the famed Morgeot (1er cru) vineyard. This wine right now is not forthcoming and reveals only good structure, hinting at varietal fruit elements. I also pick up a green edge, cola and maybe a slight sweet vegetal (beet?) aroma. Maybe it was the beet salad I was eating. :>) I would defer judging this wine til it is ready to have an honest conversation. Seems like it is built for the longer haul, though.
****+Gruaud Larose 1990: Now that’s what I am talking about. Thanks Gary! Mature but big boned cabernet from St. Julien. I love this wine – and love it more every time I have it. Wonderful stone fruit, briar, slate, cassis and tobacco – man, why smoke Cubans when you can drink this stuff. Typical Gruaud animal / leather notes, though I notice they have become less pronounced the more Parker gives them higher scores. Oh well. Perfect balance with more minerals and black fruit and smoke on the palate. Furry finish. Enjoy now or over the next 5+ years for sure. I bought mine on release for $27 a pop at Brewers World, back in the day. Set you back $140 these days.
***Inniskillin Vidal ice wine, 1998: Take off to the great white north! From the Niagara region. Wow! This stuff is so yummy. Seriously mature, honeyed color. Thick, juicy and sweet. The nose is honey, orange blossom, lavender and grilled peaches. Explosive palate, adding tobacco notes, chai and excellent purity of tropical fruit (papaya?). Finish is firm and spicy but never bitter or medicinal. Ageless. Heavier than the Bonny Doon Vin de Glacier (made with Muscat Canelli) and a bit less complex than some of the best Freemark Abbey Edelweins (botrytis Riesling), this is a wine that is fun for the whole family, though not cheap ($50 for a split). It’s a beauty, you hoser!
**+Williams Selyem Sonoma Coast, 1996: A bit tired. Maturing color, a bit hazy. Varietal. Ripe red fruit, cinnamon, green tea and cola. The mid palate is just right trending toward thinning. The finish is short and a tinge of green and slightly bitter spice belies the new oak it was barreled in (American?), now that the fruit is not there to support it. I think this might be the first release after Ed and Burt sold to the Millbrook guy. Smoke ‘em if you got ‘em.
Belland, Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot, Clos Pitois 2002: Funny how red chassagne montrachet has become the exception, not the rule. Used to be the other way around. Anyway, from the famed Morgeot (1er cru) vineyard. This wine right now is not forthcoming and reveals only good structure, hinting at varietal fruit elements. I also pick up a green edge, cola and maybe a slight sweet vegetal (beet?) aroma. Maybe it was the beet salad I was eating. :>) I would defer judging this wine til it is ready to have an honest conversation. Seems like it is built for the longer haul, though.
****+Gruaud Larose 1990: Now that’s what I am talking about. Thanks Gary! Mature but big boned cabernet from St. Julien. I love this wine – and love it more every time I have it. Wonderful stone fruit, briar, slate, cassis and tobacco – man, why smoke Cubans when you can drink this stuff. Typical Gruaud animal / leather notes, though I notice they have become less pronounced the more Parker gives them higher scores. Oh well. Perfect balance with more minerals and black fruit and smoke on the palate. Furry finish. Enjoy now or over the next 5+ years for sure. I bought mine on release for $27 a pop at Brewers World, back in the day. Set you back $140 these days.
***Inniskillin Vidal ice wine, 1998: Take off to the great white north! From the Niagara region. Wow! This stuff is so yummy. Seriously mature, honeyed color. Thick, juicy and sweet. The nose is honey, orange blossom, lavender and grilled peaches. Explosive palate, adding tobacco notes, chai and excellent purity of tropical fruit (papaya?). Finish is firm and spicy but never bitter or medicinal. Ageless. Heavier than the Bonny Doon Vin de Glacier (made with Muscat Canelli) and a bit less complex than some of the best Freemark Abbey Edelweins (botrytis Riesling), this is a wine that is fun for the whole family, though not cheap ($50 for a split). It’s a beauty, you hoser!
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