Monday, May 14, 2007

Wine Musings Vol#18

From notes taken May, 2006:

Wine of Merit: ****Ridge Montebello, 1996: If the Whitehall is all charm, the Ridge is about stature and sophistication. A classic claret. More tightly wound, this wine is deep and well structured. Great cassis, bramble, black fruit and minerals. Some tobacco. The palate shows a deft touch, perfect depth and great integration. The finish is amazingly long. With time the wine loosens up a bit to show a cassis liqueur and flower nose. Drink or hold. Montebello continues to be a first growth among cali wines, IMHO and the 1996 is a lovely example of its pedigree and tradition.

***+Behrens & Hitchcock, Staglin Vineyard Cabernet , 1994: Big and juicy. Exhibiting much of the Staglin vineyard class and elegance, this wine still is unapologetically upfront. Lush, deep black cherry liquor and cassis waft from the glass. The palate offers the same, with lead pencil and potpourri spice. Palate is soft but very coating, deep and even throughout. Spicy, sweet finish. This wine borders on flabby but in the end pulls it off. I hate the stupid use of the word “hedonistic” when describing wine and yet…Drink or hold a bit, though it seems like it is pumping on all cylinders right now.

***Robert Ampeau Savigny Les Baune, 1990: Robert Ampeau is an eccentric. He decides when his wines are ready to drink and then releases them. I believe his current vintage for this wine is 1990 (others are releasing their 2004s)! Light ruby in color – this is a mature wine, though not in any way shape or form over the hill. Feminine, delicate nose of rose petal, bing cherry and chai tea notes, with progressively more pronounced cola. A smidge astringent on the finish, though the palate is generous. Very worthy and a delicious savigny. A testament to fine wine making.

***++ Whitehall Lane Reserve, 1996: Wow! This is amazingly expressive. Jammy, forward red and black fruit, fleshy peach, lavender and mocha notes. Thick licorice and truffles nuances. Amazingly youthful. Lavish oak, though perfectly integrated. Tannins are pronounced but sweet and furry on the finish. Not flabby but very pronounced. This wine will age well for another 10 years, taking on more complexity as the fruit unravels a bit. A great wine to have by itself or with cheese. Yum!

***Gary Farrell Allen / Rochioli Chardonnay, 1999: Surprisingly Fresh. Bright lemon zest, crème brulee, blood orange. Some candied fruit on the nose. Palate shows lavish oak, though it integrates nicely. Finish is firm with more spicy oak notes. Delicious.

**++Jory Lions Oak vineyard, Sangre de Donahue, Syrah 1998: Nice, Sideways Syrah. A bit jammy and fat given its age, the wine boasts blueberry / boysenberry and oak notes, with some garrigue and chocolate. Palate is a bit flabby but pleasant. A good drinker.

***White Cottage Ranch zinfandel, 1995: I have already waxed lyrical about White Cottage. This wine is holding up perfectly and shows freshness, depth and mountain fruit a plenty. Exactly what one should hope for in Napa zins with some bottle age. Smokin!

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