Saturday, May 19, 2007

Wine Musings Vol#26

From notes taken August, 2006:

Wine of Merit: ***++Bodegas El Nido, Clio 2003: Wow! Sexy. Deep, unctuous, lush red wine from Spain. A mix of cab and monastrell, I would have guessed Aussie shiraz if hard pressed, though the fruit tends to be more of the red variety than black. Still, this wine is brazenly fruit forward, round and delicious. There is no question that it lacks sophistication and finesse, but I am pretty sure that it is not really going for that anyway. Plenty of deeply toasted oak –I’m guessing American – this wine is like dessert…milk chocolate, mocha trending toward espresso, red chewy fruit, cinnamon, licorice, full, palate staining, soft, sweet tannins. I am sure it will be good in a few years but I am also sure that it will simply mellow, not gain in complexity. In an odd way, it reminds me of an over the top Paolo Bea Sagrantino at half the price. Drink it now and apologize to no one. Fun.

***Oakville Ranch cabernet sauvignon, 1991: Yummy – last bottle. Pre- Miner Family / Lewis split up. The wines have never been as good since. This wine has hit perfect maturity, perhaps just starting to fall off. Very Stags Leap. Lush, round, delicious, red fruit, bramble with SLD minerals, earth and depth. Touch of tomato paste sweetness that is not off putting at all. Palate is full and offers good depth. Resolved finish. Smoke ‘em now and enjoy.

**++Milz, Laurentiushof Riesling Halbtrocken "180", 2005: Sah-weet! Lovely, inexpensive QBA. Lichee, guava, fresh and spicy on the nose. Slightly under ripe pineapple notes, along with Asian spices and Anjou pear on the bright, zingy palate. Racy finish. Ya Vol!

***+Easton Estate zinfandel, Shenandoah valley, 1998: I typically find Amador zins a bit pruney and hot. Not this one. Big, round, lots of crushed, black fruit, some raisin, but more chocolate and bramble. Lush, peppery palate with black fruit and yes, licorice root! Finish is sweet and long. Time has mellowed it a bit, though it is not fading or, worse, hollowing out. Amy likes it, so it is a winner!

***++Verite, 1998: The Truth! This wine is very delicious. Merlot based – I believe this would later become the “Le Muse” bottling. From the Sonoma side of Mt. Helena, this is as good as Sonoma cab gets. Very Bordeaux like in structure and flavor profile. Complex, with elements of red fruit, tobacco, truffles and earth. Cigar box. Really super nice. Perhaps, if I had to quibble, not as full on the mid palate as the nose might suggest at first blush, though it adds nice minerals and some mocha and black fruit. Amazing for the vintage. Easily a 4 star wine in a very good vintage. Surprisingly tight finish. Pomerol in Sonoma. True That!

***+Two Hands Bella’s Garden Shiraz, 2004: The Violet Beauregard of wines (think Willy Wonka). Typical, over the top, huge blueberry bomb of a wine. I suppose one should appreciate it for its amazing purity of fruit and surprisingly focused, clean signature. Some lavender, slate and perhaps pink peppercorns add nuance, but I am being kind…this is all about the ripe, luscious, juicy blueberry. Palate is full and coating, the finish firm, offering what seems like a touch of American oak greenness. Flamboyant.

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