Wine Musings Vol#102

Wine of Merit: ****Domaine Roumier, Ruchottes Chambertin, Gran Cru, Cote D’Or, 2008: Stunning. An elegant wine with poise, texture, structure and nuance. Wonderful depth and complexity for such a young wine. Berries, forest floor, potpourri…wonderfully integrated and nuanced. Length and grip on the seamless palate. Surprisingly approachable. A lovely wine.

****Domaine Ramonet, Bienvenues Batard Montrachet, Grand Cru, Cote D’Or, 2007: Once again, a stunning wine. Laser-like focus and clarity. Marzipan, linseed oil, candied citrus zest, a nuance of North African spices…wow. Mineral and citrus infused palate front to back. Endless finish. Simply a great wine.

****Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia, Toscana, IGT, 2007: A capable successor to the awesome 2006. A four square wine with big structure and still very primary elements, but clearly everything is there and in the right proportions. Perhaps not quite as ripe as 2006, but perhaps also better proportioned. For fans of this wine and this estate, 2007 looks like another must own vintage. Outstanding!

***++Renato Ratti, Marcenasco, Langhe, Barolo, 2005: I loved this wine. Approachable yet complex, perfectly balanced and a wonderful example of wines from La Morra. Strawberries and cherry liqueur, espresso, damp earth. Great balance, lovely concentration front to back, a powerful yet supple finish. A delicious and promising wine and a price that makes a lot of sense to me. Has Barolo replaced Bordeaux as the go-to red wine for the cellar?

***+Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke, Riesling Spätlese, 2004: Drinking perfectly right now. Rich and textured. Nose of white flowers, Asian pear, yellow peach, ginger, honeysuckle. Undertones of slate. Unctuous palate, lovely balance, medium, spicy finish. Just delicious.

***+Cargasacchi, Santa Rita Hills, pinot noir, 2005: Delicious! Bright, zingy strawberry rhubarb, cranberry, baking spices. Palate is nicely toned, lithe and seamless front to back, adding bright acids and some pink peppercorn notes. Generous oak, but well integrated. With extended air the oak becomes more prevalent and less enjoyable. An easy drinking SRH pinot that was great with food and a real crowd pleaser.

***Paolo Bea, San Valentino, Umbria, IGT, sagrantino, 2006: Fruit-tastic! Prominent notes of blueberry, blackberry, plum, black licorice and mint. With more air, cardamom and tar. A bit one dimensional. Palate is coating, a bit grapey and well structured, with lots of grip. Finishes with drying tannins. Lacks the sophistication and savoir faire of the more serious Bea bottlings...but delicious nonetheless.

Wine Musings Vol#101

Wine of Merit: **** Chateau Rausan Segla, Margaux, Medoc, 1990: Possibly at its zenith. This is a lovely, nuanced feminine iteration of cabernet. Warm toned, red-fruited, notes of mulling spices, brown sugar, cedar and rosehip. Still very fresh on the palate. with more red fruit and a touch of cherry pipe tobacco. Great integration and still a hint of oak. Just a great wine.

****Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, St. Julien, Medoc, 1998: Classic. Deep cassis, lead pencil, blackberry notes. Hints of loam. Wonderful, balance and grip on the palate. Long, mineral finish, with fine tannins. This wine is built for plenty of years more in the cellar but is wonderful to drink right now for its statesman-like qualities.

****Chateau Pape Clement, Pessac Leognan, Graves, 1996: I am finding great favor recently with the 1996 vintage. I think it is really coming into a great window of drinkability. None more than this pape clement. A claret drinkers Bordeaux. Classic Graves elements of black currant, tobacco, autumn leaves, a spicy, Moka coffee and sage. The palate is lithe and silky. Great balance. The finish adds cloves and pink peppercorn to the furry tannins and tobacco. A charmer, for sure.

***++ Domaine de Chevalier blanc, Pessac Leognan, Graves, 1992: Speaking of charmers...I have big heart for this wine. It is my definition of white bordeaux. Slightly waxy, honey comb, orange peel, guava, freshly cut hay, chamomile...this wine just rocks. Age has added complexity and toned some of the youthful exuberance. The palate adds that wet slate minerality that I dig. Lovely integration to a finish that emphasizes a citrus pith bitterness I adore. Great!

***+ Chateau Pontet Canet, Paulliac, Medoc, 1995: Crazy. On opening this wine offers a singular element as its signature...it is like someone shaved wonderful, Droste chocolate into cafe au lait infused mascarpone and added a toasted marshmallow topping. Almost liquid tiramisu! With time in the glass the chocolate element integrates more with black licorice, cigar box, blackberry and graphite but still remains the prevalent take away. Still...yum! The palate signature is youthful, but generous and coating, almost velvety. The finish is fine and long. To me this is a delicious wine clearly made in the new world style. I think this vintage was made just as this wine was about to become popular and may be one of the first "Parker formula" wines out of Bordeaux in the 90s. Again...delicious but quite a contrast to the other Bordeaux reds served. Don't hate - celebrate!

***+Ceritas, Escarpa vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2007: Maybe my favorite sonoma coast pinot of the moment. Still requiring time and patience for the full effect, it has all the elements in place. Focused, black cherry, wild strawberry and cola notes with briar and oolong tea undertones. Excellent sap, a slightly grainy texture and structure on the palate. Long, pronounced, spicy finish that makes an impression. Kind of the anti KB pinot. Very promising.

Wine Musings Vol#100: A century of wine!

Rather than comment on a smattering of recent wines, I decided to hold back and make this 100th post about the 10 or so best wines I have had over the last 3 months...all Wines of Merit. To whit:

****+Tenuta dell'Orenllaia, Bolgheri, DOC Superiore, 2001: A very special wine indeed. Fresh and vibrant while still big boned, this is a wine that marries elegance and depth with a deft hand. The fruit and structural elements are in perfect balance, with nuances of mineral, tobacco and earth. All of the hoped for elements are there. Finish is long and once again harmonious. First growth Bordeaux quality with that Italian verve and optimism that sets it apart from Mouton or Lafite. A standard. Gorgeous.

****+Schrader Cellars, RBS, Beckstoffer To-kalon vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2006: Ridiculous depth and power. Pure blue and black fruit, graphite, cedar, menthol explode from the glass. Exuberantly youthful and concentrated, this wine still posses the balance and integration required to objectify poise. Really, everything required for a perfect wine is here...it just needs a little time. Delicious now, I am sure this wine will gain even more complexity and nuance with bottle age...if you can wait that long! Magic.

****Verite', La Muse, Sonoma County, 1999: Drinking magnificently well right now, after a two hour decant. Merlot-driven, red berry and mature black cherry notes, lavender, coffee grinds, freshly turned soil create an arousing melange. With time tobacco leaf is added to the mix. A real come hither wine. Coating palate with good structure, beautiful integration and balance. Long, fine finish. Really sophisticated and nuanced, with a pure core of fruit. A pleasure.

****Penfolds, Bin 707, South Australia, cabernet sauvignon, 1988: Wonderful. A hallmark for Aussie cabernet. Focused, maturing notes of violet, cassis, raw tobacco and freshly tanned leather. Mint. Brawny yet supple. Coating, wonderful grip from front to back, with more black fruit, licorice root and minerals. A big framed wine but with poise and dexterity. Did I mention wonderful? Intoxicating.

****Giuseppe Quintarelli, Ca del Merlo, Veneto, valpolicella, 1999: Welcome to the cult of Quintarelli. These folks know that there is valploicella, there is amarone and then there is Quintarelli. This wine does not disappoint. Still showing its youth, this wine is nonetheless lithe, extremely light on its feet. Beautiful, nuanced elements of autumn leaves, cherry pipe tobacco, pan forte, tar and licorice root come together to offer the proverbial meal in a glass. Nothing about this wine seems manufactured...it is just as it was intended to be. The mouth feel is generous and coating but never to excess, lingering across the palate as it moves to the spicy, tarry, fine finish. Just wonderful. I am converted!

****Azienda Agricola Montevertine, Le Pergole Torte Riserva, IGT, Toscana, 2003: Just showing wonderfully right now. Still nuanced and not overpowering, this wine is an amazing articulation of sangiovese. A mixture of queen anne and sour cherry, accompanied by lavender and rosemary spices and pink peppercorns and finally polished saddle leather and yes, grilled meats all come together to conjure up the Tuscan sun. Perfect weight and balance. Palate features more red fruit and spice, overtones to perfectly integrated acids and a long finish. This wine with homemade pasta and a simple cacio e pepe is a dream. Really special.

****Hazyblur, The Invictus, Barossa Valley, shiraz, 2004: I am admittedly surprised to be including this note, as typically this style of wine does not do it for me. That said, this wine is absolutely delicious. Wonderfully textured and rich, this Aussie shiraz never goes over the top, even though it certainly approaches the summit. Blackberry, blueberry, boysenberry...maybe even snozberry...this wine delights. This melange of fruit is accompanied by black licorice, treacle, chocolate and fig notes...I could not help thinking of a British Christmas pudding. Palate is coating and velvety, adding a mineral element. Finish is firm, a touch sweet and loooong. A long decant allows the primary fruit to really integrate beautifully with the other elements, and adds an autumnal flavor that just adds to the complexity and fun. Quite a treat!

***++Hundred Acre, Ark Vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: I include this wine as a stark contrast to most of the others...but it still ranks as a Wine of Merit to me. Clearly made in that slightly over the top, extended maceration, more is more style, what this wine lacks in nuance and sophistication it makes up for in pure hedonistic delight. Big, effusive notes of plum cobbler, scorched earth, baker's chocolate, pan fried sage and hickory smoked meat waft up from the glass. A meal by itself. The palate is enveloping and generous, the finish like a bear rug in front of a roaring fireplace on a cold winter's night. A wine to be enjoyed for what it is, without any reason for apology. Not for everyone nor every night, but every once in awhile...Fantastic!

***++Aubert, Lauren Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2005: I love where this wine is at right now. Meyer lemon, key lime, orange blossom, slate, laundry right out of the dryer, maybe a hint of something rich like a meringue...just a gorgeous expression of the fruit. Bright acids, a long, mineral note, a slight sprtiz of effervesence and more citrus make the palate sing front to back. Finish is also lively, with more mineral and citrus pith notes. Energizing!

***++Paul Pernot, Carelles, 1er Cru, Volnay, pinot noir, 1995: A great counterpoint to much of what is going on in domestic pinot noir right now. Subtle, nuanced, intersting, this 1er cru volnay embodies what I love about mid level burgundy. Nose of cherry blosom, truffle, Asian spice, a touch of freshly turned earth and oolong tea. Palate is still fresh and lively but more importantly deftly balanced and seamless front to back. Tannins are sweet and fine. A great time to drink this wine.

***++Chateau Leoville Las Cases, St. Julien, Medoc, 1992: First and foremost I am struck by the $28.99 price tag, reminding of times when buying wine made sense. 92 was not considered a great vintage so I am sure I bought these on a bit of a flier. Well, with this risk comes reward. This wine is at its prime right now. Not even requiring a decant, this wine sings at full throat right from the bottle. A melange of plum, cigar tobacco, cedar, blood and kalamata olive waft from the glass with little coaxing. The palate is medium firm and velvet textures, just gliding front to back, offering more plum, minerals and black licorice. Tannins are fine, resolving and finish is of medium length. Finesse in a glass.

***++Cafaro Cellars, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1989: A real throw back and a lovely wine. Joe Cafaro is something of a legend out in Napa and deservedly so. He has a deft hand and really understands how to complement the natural fruit elements of the area...instead of subverting them as so many others do. This wine, from admittedly not a heralded vintage, is beautifully balanced, perfectly integrated and fresh as a daisy. No scorched earth or black cherry syrup here...this wine has great black currant, eucalyptus, sage and mineral notes. It is deep and beautifully delineated. Great structure and grip on the palate with more black fruit and mineral. Firm, long, fine finish. Equally good, picking up a tobacco note, on day two. A testament to the potential of Cali cab when made the right way. Go Joe!

***+Andrew Geoffrey Vineyards, Diamond Mountian, cabernet sauvignon, 2003: A new label for me...and a pleasant surprise! Much more forthcoming than the Diamond Mountain cabs I know well. This wine shows delicious red and black fruit, malabar pepper, tar and a pronounced if underlying, hickory-wood ember element that adds sophistication and depth. The palate is lively and perfectly balanced front to back. The finish is pronounced and suggests that this wine will continue to cellar well. Another super effort from what seems to be a long list of great Diamond Mountian winemakers. Kudos to the Andrew Geoffrey folks.

Wine Musings Vol#99

For this issue of the musings we invite a special guest, John Caldarella, to take us to Bordeaux:

Chateau Pavie Macquin, St.Emilion, Bordeaux, 1999: I have found 1999 Bordeaux to be one of the most underrated vintages of Bordeaux. I have enjoyed 1999s from over a dozen Chateau ranging from Pauillac on the Left through Margaux on the Right and I have yet to be disappointed. The 99s were approachable early and have shown, at this point, to be delightful as they mature into their second decade.Tonight's example, from Saint-Emilion, has a wonderful nose of black truffle, soy, a little meat fat, and dark berry - in that order. As the wine opens the fruit becomes more expressive on the palate. While the wine is of medium body it finishes cleanly and its finely evolved tannins, quite frankly, exude character...more broken-in Benz than Jag. Lovely.




Wine of Merit: ****+Joseph Phelps, Insignia, cabernet sauvignon, Napa Valley, 1986:
Simply stated, a great wine. Surprisingly youthful. After a long decant, swirling notes of cedar, cassis, fresh plum, nicoise olive, herb de Provence and that bright, laser focused mint/eucalyptus note for which this wine has become famous. While later vintages have yielded to popular tastes, this wine remains a classic. Great structure, great balance, great finesse. Honestly, I am reminded of Mouton from the same vintage. Classic. Drink or hold.

****+ Kongsgaard, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2005: In looking through the blog, I noted that I have posted on the 2005 Judge, but not the base chardonnay. Well, it is fabulous. Unctuous, deep, perfumed and yet precise and focused. A melange of citrus, tree blossoms, honey comb, jasmine, subtle earthiness. A hint of tobacco. Flattering on the palate but detailed with a solid mineral backbone right through to the long finish. Hard not to gush about this wine. Expensive and clearly worth it.

****Dunn, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1993: Amazing. A brute that is just now even interested in flexing its muscles. Deep blue/black fruits, bramble, rocky minerals. Complimentary notes of cedar and sage. Amazing purity and depth. The palate belies its heavy weight status. The finish is the knockout. If the Insignia is Mouton, this is Latour in a big vintage. It is my understanding that the cellar master of Latour, upon trying a Dunn HM wine from around this vintage, decided that he could make a Latour from this terroir. I think his effort is called Notre Vin and is finally available for sale. I totally believe it and would be interested in how that project is turning out. Honestly, with the exception of Outpost True, I am disappointed by many of the HM efforts these days. This 1993 HM reminds me of the potential!

***++ Cedric Bouchard, Roses de Jeanne, Haut Lamblee, Blanc de blancs, champagne, 2005: Ephemeral, crisp mousse and tiny bead. Bright, crisp green apple, dried apricot, marzipan, Asian pear. Crisp, dry and mineral on the palate, with a star fruit/kiwi tang. A great food champagne. 100% chardonnay with no wood and no dosage. Delicious!

***+Sottimano, Vigne Masua, Curra, barbaresco, 2000: Delicious and clearly still a baby. Wonderful notes of potpourri, licorice root, smoke and dusty, baker's chocolate are easily coaxed from the glass. Everything about this wine is big. Voluminous, coating mouth feel. Big tannic backbone. Chocolate, fruit, pepper finish. Just a meal by itself. A wine to drink while pondering the good things in life. Super.

***+Antichi Vignetti di Cantalupo, Collis Carellae, Ghemme, 1996: A Spanna of very high quality. Much more focused and sophisticated than the Vallana offering. This wine is very reminiscent of its neighboring Barolo, with nuanced aromatics of rose hip, rhubarb,white strawberry and spice. Base notes of tar and licorice root. Palate glides with bright, integrated acids front to back, more red fruit and peppery spice. Medium,fine finish. Great food wine.

***Habit, Happy Canyon, sauvignon blanc, 2009: A new wine made from grapes grown in the Santa Ynez valley, with Dave Margerum consulting. I love the label - and the wine inside as well! A sauvignon blanc that is more ultra chill than exuberant, it offers sophisticated notes of chamomile, freshly cut grass and wild flowers, accompanied by Sicilian citron and muted tropical fruit notes. The palate is suave, layered and generous, with little of that typical young SB bite, surprising as this wine sees no oak at all. While only 50 cases were made, it is worth looking for if you can find it. Happy hunting!

***Gerard Boulay, Sancerre Rose, Chavignol, 2009: As spring turns into summer, thoughts turn to beaches, picnics, flip flops...and chavignol rose. And chief amongst them Gerard Boulay's Chavignol. Juicy, energetic, pink tropical fruits, peonies, a bit of flint...everything that is needed to enjoy the weather. Structured enough to enjoy with cool summer fare but delicious solo, this wine is for me one of the telltale signs of summer. As James Taylor says, "Summer's here...I'm for that!"

**++Windgap, Russian River Valley, pinot gris, 2008: Another winner from Pax Mahle's new label. A very different iteration of pinot gris, this wine is vinified in two batches; one is whole cluster prerssed and barreled down, the other crushed and left to age on the skins. After a year or so they are blended. The resulting wine is light orange hued, more akin to a rose then a white, though it is fermented dry. Aromas and palate are fresh and vibrant, with elements of queen Anne cherry, peach, crenshaw melon and apricot. Good acids and a nice mineral note. A great summer wine (12.3% abv), it actually was best with food. Fun!

Wine Musings Vol#98

Wine of Merit: ****Woodward Canyon, Columbia Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1989: A revelation. Superb. Very reminiscent of a Pichon Comtesse de Lalande of the same vintage. Somewhat feminine and red fruit driven, elements of nicoise olive, graphite, cassis, lavender and toasted black bread, a floral tisane note. Gliding on the palate, with more red fruit and cassis. Lingering, fine, resolving finish. Just gorgeous.

***++Leonetti Cellar, Walla Walla Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Still quite vibrant and fresh. Wonderful, nuanced cabernet notes of leather, autumn leaves and cherry pipe tobacco. Plum/Panforte and tar. Full coating palate, lovely depth and grip. Fine, tingly finish with more mint and berry fruit. Perfect drinking window. Great!

***+JC Cellars, Frediani vineyard, Napa Valley, petite syrah, 1998: I am not a big petite syrah fan. That said, this was a wonderful wine! In my cellar since release, the wine has developed wonderfully integrated black fruit, caramelized fig and spicy broad leaf cigar tobacco notes. Calla Lilly with time in the glass. Super interesting but all integrated and nuanced. Balanced, full palate, lively peppery, meaty finish. A big - and very pleasant - surprise. Wonderful!

***+Bodegas Muga, Rioja Reserva, Tempernaillo, 2001: A wonderful wine at a great value. Spicy red fruit, iron, grilled meats, saddle leather, garrigue and a touch of iodine. Great complexity with clean flavors and focus. Palate is a touch racy with good attack, more red fruit and Malabar pepper and no drop offs. Fine, long spicy finish. A dynamite food wine that continues to improve and nuance.

***+Del Dotto, Napa valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1997: Prototypical. Wonderful cassis, cedar, plum and tobacco. Pronounced creamy, chocolate mint. Great depth and richness but not overripe or exaggerated at all. Flattering, generous mouth feel front to back. Long, lingering spicy finish. Yum!

***Windgap, Fannucchi vineyard, Trousseau Gris, 2009: A lovely, lighter weight summer sipper. Bright, lemon citrus zest and juicy green apple notes. Candied ginger and cardamom. Excellent snap and acid bite. Pure mineral backbone all the way to the finish. With time in the glass, a floral, almost acacia note is added. Bring on the summer heat!

Wine Musings Vol#97

Wine of Merit: ***+Les Pagodes de Cos, St. Estephe, Bordeaux, 2000: A lovely surprise from Cos D'Estournel's second label. While 2000 has earned the reputation for some hard-as-nails wines, this is not one of them. Rich, sweet blackberry, licorice, cedar and tobacco. A hint of minerals. The palate is full, textured, fruitful and not hard edged anywhere. Lovely integration front to back, to a medium long finish with fine tannins. A pleasure.

***+ Conn Valley Vineyards, Right Bank, Napa, meritage, 2007: Another incredibly pleasing wine. A merlot/cab blend. Similar notes, with the addition of youthful exuberance. Ripe, juicy, black cherry and berry fruit. A touch of vanilla pipe tobacco. A hint of nicoise olive. Lots of baby fat. Balanced nicely hinting at aging potential and the development of tertiary complexity. Yummy right now!

***+Eric Texier, Cote Rotie, Vielles Vignes, syrah, 2005: I admit right upfront that I am a huge Texier fan. His wines sacrifice goofy extraction and ripeness for balance, integration and nuance. This wine is no exception. Inviting in almost a polite way, it offers beautifully delineated syrah aromatics of blueberry compote, wildflowers and carbonara (well cooked pancetta, pepper, a touch of something richer and creamier). The palate has pinot like flow and the finish is elegant and focused. Clearly a wine that will age well as I muddle through earlier vintages. Just wonderful. Bravo.

***Kosta Browne, Koplen vineyard, Russian River Valley, pinot noir, 2006: From the sublime...Actually, while there is no mistaking these pinot noirs for Burgundy, they offer lots of pleasure in their own way. Thick black cherry and vanilla ice cream notes, here with a note of raspberry and a nuance of something not quite as sweet, perhaps Mariage Freres Marco Polo tea. The palate is thankfully not quite as blousy, with a nice core of cherry fruit but also some malabar pepper, cola and fine tannin to the finish. This wine is better than the RRV and can probably stand another year in the cellar, though it is meant for drinking in the nearer term. Nice.

***Chateau Fuisse, Puilly Fuisse, Les Combettes, Burgundy, 2006: The theme continues to be rich wines. Initial notes of struck match from liberal use of sulphur. Then, with aeration, spicy preserved lemons, Asian pears, grilled fennel and lily of the valley. Bright and racy on the palate. Good acids with minerals and a slightly more candied citrus element. Fine, focused, spicy finish. Delicious.

Wine Musings Vol#96

Wine of Merit: *****Chateau Pichon Longueville, Comtesse de Lalande, Paulliac, 1995: Just a wonderful wine. Nuanced nose of plum, sage, baker's chocolate, pipe tobacco. Hint of menthol. Completely integrated. Wonderful balance. Sumptuous mouthfeel, lingering finish. This wine has been described as seductive and I completely agree. A wine I was thinking about the next day. Great.

****Larkmead, LMV Salon, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2007: Another lovely wine...and in fact a good, modern day interpretation of the 95 Pichon Lalande made in the USA. More vanilla, hazelnut in the upfront, this is a wine that unravels nuance upon nuance as it opens up evolves in the glass. Sweet black and red fruits, spiced cherry pipe tobacco, black licorice, molten chocolate. Firm structure and deep concentration suggest that this will benefit from ample cellaring, though it is hard to fault the heady, youthful exuberance. Not quite the sophisticated grande damme that the Pichon Lalande represents, but clearly a family resemblance!

***+Galardi, Terra di Lavoro, Roccamonfina, aglianico, 2004: I think I might have hit this wine at a difficult time in its evolution. It presents with super interesting notes of black raspberry preserves, graphite, licorice root, smokey tar. Mid palate does seem however a bit muted. Big finish. It is very plausible that the mid palate will expand and that the disjointed nature of the wine will abet and that the wine will synch up. A great, very artisanal iteration of a wine from the "Land of Work". I will bury remaining bottles.

***+Phillips Hill, Oppenlander vineyard, Anderson Valley, pinot noir, 2006: Refreshingly honest, high quality cool climate pinot. A delicious, queen anne cherry and rose hip base, from which emanate nuances of oolong tea, cinnamon stick and earth notes. Blood orange zest. An undercurrent of soft tannins front to back, bright acids, more red fruit and spice. Very nice purity and focus. Lovely.

***Edmunds Saint John, Heart of Gold, El Dorado County, 2008: Like an early summer breeze. A vermentino, white grenchae blend, the wine is sunny, fresh and juicy. Redolent of freshly sliced, white Jersey peaches. A touch of grilled fennel, almond and white flowers. Bright acids. A great summer sipper and wonderful QPR at $20.

***Ridge, Geyserville, Sonoma County, 1993: A field blend of zinfandel, petite syrah, carignane, alicante and mataro (mouvedre). Surprisingly fresh for its age. Brambly, peppery, mature red plum. Tobacco leaf and leather. Full, coating mouthfeel and a satisfying, long spicy, peppery finish. No real hurry to drink. A testament to this wine's longevity and structure.

Wine Musings Vol#95

Wine of Merit: **** Cliff Lede Vineyards, Poetry, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2006: This is a magnificent wine. Very much a vin de garde. Chiseled features, this wine has profound depth, focus, concentration and structure. Muscular. Never, however, angular or out of balance or brutish in any way. Black fruit, chalky minerals, lead pencil, a hint of something more nuanced like raw tobacco leaf. One to put away with confidence. Intense.

****Ben Glaetzer, Amon-Ra, Shiraz, Barossa Valley, 2005: Equally worthy is the Amon Ra from Ben Glaetzer. A majestic wine. Deep, concentrated, deftly balanced. Blue and black fruit, an undertone of grilled meat that becomes more pronounced with air, bramble, a huge whiff of exotic, tagine spices...this wine has it all. Powerful but never lacking grace. Long, firm, graceful finish. A wonder.

***++Donnhoff, Niederhauser Hermannshohle, Nahe, Riesling Auslese, 2002: I have tracked this wine over time and it has never been better than right now. Orange blossom and oleander, petrol, dried apricot, minerals. Rich and textured, oily but not heavy in anyway. Lovely balance. Minerals and spice on the lingering finish. Delicious.

***+ Jean Claude Boisset, 1er Cru “Les Chaponnières”, Pommard, 2005: A suave Pommard made in a very natural style. Deep red fruit, pronounced chocolate covered apricot slices (I love those), mulling spice a great mineral backbone. Silky smooth palate feel with a firm structure front to back. 13% abv and the structure bode well for longer term cellaring, but hard to resist right now. I should have bought more!

***+W.S. Keyes, Howell Mountain, merlot, 2006: This was a wine that evolved significantly in the glass. Initially all about milk chocolate and caramel, it took on weight and nuance with air. Deep plum, crushed violet, grilled meat. A forest floor element. Velvety, generous mouthfeel. Long finish. From what was the Liparita vineyards. Lovely.

***+Eric Texier, Brezeme, Domaine Pergault, Villes Vignes, Cotes de Rhone, 2005: A 5 year old CdR just hitting its stride. Welcome to the world of Eric Texier. 100% Syrah, this wine is signing right now. Gorgeous, perfumed red currant, black berry fruited tisane, brier, violet, a real melange. The palate slides and glides, adding minerals and nice structure through to the fine finish. Someone suggested this is a baby Hermitage and I would agree.

***Le Clos Jordanne, Niagara, Ontario, chardonnay, 2006: Beauty, eh? (Sorry couldn't resist). Actually, this wine is a beauty. Clean, bright lemon/grapefruit notes, white pear, flinty mineral, an added element of grilled fennel on the palate, excellent acids and verve, a long, spicy finish. By pure serendipity this wine is owned and made by the Boisset family above mentioned. An excellent effort. A classy chardonnay from the great white north.

Wine Musings Vol#94

Had the pleasure of spending the day visiting Sojourn Cellars, Audelssa Vineyards and Pott Wines while on a one day scamper up to the sonoma/napa valleys.

Our first stop was Sojourn Cellars and a visit with Craig Haserot. It is clear that Craig is passionate about wine and wine making and his product reflects his choice to make his avocation into his vocation. I found the current pinots and cabernets delicious. They offer a nice balance between some of the leaner, "more natural", lower abv wines being produced out there and the more full throttle, cherry vanilla milkshake, high abv, high extract versions. It seems like a very conscious effort to find the middle ground. I guess if I had to use one word to describe Sojourn Cellars I would use the word polished. Enticing to soaring aromatics, welcoming mouth feel gliding to a long, fine finish these are delicious wines that will appeal to wine geeks and casual wine drinkers alike.

Craig kindly poured his whole line up:

***Sojourn Cellars, Sonoma County, pinot noir, 2008: Ripe, though not overly so, with lovely sonoma nuances of cherry cola and mulling spices. Palate coating and generous with a long, spicy finish. Gorgeous.

***+Sojourn Cellars, Rogers Creek vineyard, pinot noir, 2008: Perhaps the most interesting of the pinots. Nuanced, green elements, earthy truffle and a slightly more pronounced tannic profile. May benefit from some laying down. Delicious.

***Sojourn Cellars, Gaps Crown vineyard, pinot noir, 2008: Racy and fun. Red fruits, currants, malabar pepper. Maybe sorting itself out still a touch, but very promising and undoubtedly a good food wine.

***++Sojourn Cellars, Sangiacomo vineyard, pinot noir, 2008: The pride of the litter. Full, creamy but still deep and showing good concentration, this wine seems the most complete to me. Very worthy.

***+Sojourn Cellars, Mountain Terraces, cabernet sauvignon, 2006: Mountain Fruit from Sonoma. The best sonoma cabs are from the mountains and this one show many of those most desired qualities. Nicoise olive, earth, red fruit, bramble. Full and coating. Long, fine finish. Great.

***Sojourn Cellars, Sonoma Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2006: A great buy at $39. Delicious, forward, oak, chocolate, a touch of bell pepper, plum, pipe tobacco. Full and coating. Yum!

Toward the end of the tasting Craig was kind enough to bring out two yet to be released samples: The first was the 2007 Sojourn Cellars Spring Mountain cabernet (***+). I found it surprisingly supple and integrated (but still showing that deep mountain fruit concentration) for a wine from a growing area that I most often associate with big, tannic, monster cabs. Another taster suggested to Craig that he had "tamed the monster" on this one and I have to agree. An excellent effort. The other wine was the 2008 Sojourn Cellars George III cabernet (***++). A cut above. Deeper, more interesting and nuanced, it is showing its pedigree even in these early, primary stages. A wine to watch out for. I was very impressed with these and all of the Sojourn Cellars wines.

Lunch at the EDK (truffled fries!) and then...

Off to Audelssa Vineyards , which was a new winery for me. The views from the top of Mt. Veeder are breathtaking and the folks there could not be nicer or more passionate about their estate grown wines. Of special note were the 2006 Summit cabernet blend*** and the 2006/2007 reserves***+. I believe the Sojourn Cellars Mountain Terraces is from this very same vineyard (of course they share winemakers so it would make sense). Mountain grown, black cherry and mocha driven wines with nice complementary notes of earth and smoke. Firm and full on the palate with a pronounced and very enjoyable mineral presence and very firm, tannic finish. My impression is that the reserves are made with 100% estate merlot/cab franc fruit while the Summit blend is an estate/alder springs Bordeaux blend. In many ways this estate reminds me of Jocelyn Lonen - the views, the nice people the fruited wines...lovely! Audelssa sells two crowd pleaser wines, the Zephyr GSM*** (does this also get a bit of co-fermented estate viognier? The aromatics are certainly pumped up)and theTephra**++ (a kitchen sink mix including zinfandel, syrah, cab, merlot and maybe others). Both of these less expensive wines were approachable, yummy and eminently drinkable. A strong line up. Thank you for the visit. A picture from the vineyard with the clouds parting is my new computer wallpaper. Breathtaking.

Wines of Merit: Lastly we made the hike to visit with Aaron Pott. Aaron was kind enough to share 4 of his cuvees with us, as well as a bottle of the 2007 Seven Stones, which I had tried from barrel in October. It is hard to know where to start with Aaron's wines. I find them magical. If the word of the day for Sojourn is polished, the word for Pott Wines is complete. To my palate they lack nothing. Each wine is individual, interesting, deep, complex and fulfilling in its own way. I will briefly mention that his 2007 Pantagruel**** cab franc had wonderful, Chinon like complexities that I have personally never found in a new world cab franc, though I have had quite a few (Favia, Detert, Viader, Verite, etc...). I thought it exquisite, as I found all of his wines. Amazing also were the White Cottage cab St. Ralph the Liar****, deep, concentrated HM cab bursting with fruit (I happen to love Dennis John's version as well), Kalihomanok**** from Spring Mtn (where the monster was not tamed but befriended) and the beguiling, black-as-night, Oakville grown Neruda****. Quite the tour de force.

The 2007 Seven Stones (****++) was, as it was out of barrel, otherworldly. Among the best Napa cabs I have had from any vintage - it reminded me very much of the 1994 Harlan cabs that I drank way too young. I realize that some recent comments made by the owner have made this wine controversial, but I will continue to buy all they will sell me at the asking price and consider myself lucky. A great effort.Once again, thanks to all for the visit and the hospitality. A real treat.

Wine Musings Vol#93

Wine of Merit: ****Araujo, Eisele vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: I am often puzzled by why Araujo does not garner as much praise as many of the other “cult” cabernets from Napa. Maybe it’s the clear choice of elegance and refinement over raw extraction? In any case, it is clearly deserving of high praise. This 2004 is testament. Alluring, sophisticated notes of plum pudding, cured tobacco, cedar and dried fig. Excellent concentration and perfect balance from nose through to back of palate. On the palate minerals, chocolate and mint are added to the plum notes and glide front to back. Fine, resolving finish. Delicious. A great wine experience.

***++Ceritas, Porter Bass vineyard, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2007: This is the third vintage made under this label by the owners of the Porter Bass vineyard. A wonderful wine. Medium weight and at first shy, this wine opened up with a bit of aeration to reveal lemon zest and kafir lime notes, accompanied by orange blossom, grapefruit, wet slate and a mélange of exotic spices. Sturdy structure with excellent acidity and length. While taught, this wine offers a lot of pleasure right now, as well as the promise of more developed notes with time in the cellar. Great effort. Only 88 cases made.

***++Rivers Marie, Thieriot vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2007: An inaugural effort, this chardonnay was far and away the table’s favorite of the night. Right in between the Ceritas and the Aubert efforts, the RM chardonnay hits many of the former wine’s bright fruit notes with a slightly broader, richer palate that includes marzipan and a touch of hazelnut. Palate is generous but focused with a lingering mineral and citrus pith finish. A lovely wine and an amazing value at $45.

***++Aubert, Lauren vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2004: If it is possible, this wine has become even more unctuous over time. Thick, oily, lemony, cardamom laced buttered popcorn, crème brulee and almond. Full, coating mouth feel, candied citrus and minerals. Delicious for it’s over the top, hedonistic nature. Drink soon.

***++Lokoya, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 2003: Served from magnum. I would characterize this wine as very similar in profile to the O’Shaughnessy cabernet listed below, but with more depth and focus. I am not sure if this is attributable to the vintage differences, format differences or otherwise. But this Lokoya adds chalk, a stronger mineral profile and licorice root to the fruited elements. The blue/black fruit is also more focused and youthful. A powerful wine for sure, but with excellent overall symmetry. Another reason to be a Howell Mountain cabernet fan.

***+O’Shaughnessy Vineyards, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 2002: This cab splits the difference between the Merus (below mentioned) and the Araujo. Clearly mountain grown, this wine offers beautifully balanced brambly, deep, dark blue/black fruited cabernet aromas, adding tar, lead pencil and smoke. Not vague in any way, but much more extracted than the Araujo, it also adds a touch of green sweetness I associate with spearmint. Firm-ish palate, excellent oak integration, long finish. A very worthy effort made by folks who clearly take pride in the Howell Mountain terroir.

***+Merus, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: Where the Araujo focuses on balance and integration, Merus substitutes depth and concentration. Almost aussie like in its primary fruit focus. Black and blue berry fruit preserves, cocoa powder, licorice root. A deep, thick iteration of cabernet. A bit ponderous, but still fun and very much delicious in a “…and for desert I’ll take the 5 lb. banana split sundae challenge! (gasps heard around the table)” kind of way. If you believe more is more, then Merus is for you. Even the bottle is oversized for a typical 750ml. Big!

***+ Chateau Langoa Barton, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 2000: A sister wine of the famed Ch. Leoville Barton. This wine has verve. Refreshingly NOT from Napa, one is immediately confronted with exuberant black fruit laced with animal, nicoise olive and bay leaf notes. The palate continues the assault, including a saline element, baker’s chocolate and racy red and black currants. Full, powerful, long tannic finish. Great with food. A yummy wine from a dynamite vintage. Drink or hold.

Wine Musings Vol#92

****+Wine of Merit: Marcassin, Zio Tony ranch, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2004: Wow! One must stop for a moment and appreciate. I have had other vintages of this wine and not been nearly as impressed. And yet this bottle of 2004 requires a complete rethinking and re-examination. At the same time complex and subtle, this chardonnay speaks to a sophistication and lightness of hand that I do not associate with Helen Turley, or new world chardonnay for that matter. Wonderful, lithe, balanced, frisky, and a sea-salty, lemon-zesty crushed sea shell verve (to balance out the more typical creme brulee notes) that I just loved. Perfectly balanced and structured. Long, mineral, lime-y finish. Just a superb chardonnay. Go figure.

***+Chateau Margui, Coteaux varois, rouge, 2006: A wonderful, spirited wine. A 60/40 syrah/cab mix from provence, this wine reminds me of the Galileo saying, "wine is sunshine held together by water". I can taste provence in there, its sun backed stones, garrigue, red and black currants and berries, the spice market in Aix en provence...delicious. And cheap ($17 a pop, $38 in mag!). Have it with a simple roasted chicken with new potatoes and count the blessings. Great.

***+Medlock Ames, Estate, Sonoma Mountain, merlot, 2003: Medlock Ames knows merlot. This iteration is firm and deep, with excellent plum and black currant, violet, mint, baker's choclate and pepper. Voluminous, with solid structure and good oak presence...never overwhelming. A wine to drink with air, or hold.

***+Jocelyn Lonen Winery, Lonen Reserve, cabernet sauvignon, 2003: Just wonderful. A wine made by the late Joshua Krupp, with fruit sourced from the Krupp's Stagecoach vineyard. Lovely concentration, rich and full...real Stagecoach terroir. Lush, velvety black cherry, mocha, cigar box with touches of fennel seed, earth and ripe plum that makes me think cab franc. Long, fine finish. Yum!

***+Woodward Canyon, Charbonneau vineyards, Walla walla, cabernet sauvignon, 1989: Yummy cab from another era. 12.3% abv, good acid structure, suave, gliding wahington state cab. Aromas of black cherry, dark chocolate, melted licorice, tar and a touch of bbq sauce. Integrated and harmonious front to back. Just a lovely wine to have with some slow cooked short ribs. Ah...the pleasures of food and wine.