Friday, May 30, 2008

Wine Musings Vol#57


Wine of Merit: ****++Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia, Bolgheri, rosso, 1988: A classic to be savored. Wonderful. Many have considered the 1985 Sassicaia to be one of the best Italian wines ever made…I have always thought the 1988 to be just as good if not even a better wine. Mature color, bricking around the rim. Initial nose of chocolate, raisins, mature plums and soy sauce. With time this wine opens and becomes more vibrant and expressive. Perfectly ripe blackberries, grilled game, a touch of garrigue and lavender, wonderful minerals, espresso, sooo…Italian. The wine, in my opinion, defines the “Super” in Super Tuscan. Velvety, fine, enveloping palate, seamless, perfectly resolved, lingering finish. I do not believe it is getting better per se, but is definitely riding a high. Superb.

****Barnett Vineyards, Rattlesnake Hill Vineyard, Spring Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Big, bold and beautiful! I have had bottles of this wine that seemed more advanced. This one seems youthful, sinewy and vibrant. Big, black and blue fruit. Cassis, mint/eucalyptus, smoke, vahlrona chocolate. Very, very deep. A big mouthful of wine, it is coating and furry front to back. Long, spicy, mineral finish. Black Malabar pepper. Wonderful!

***+Cedric Bouchard, Roses de Jeanne, Blanc de Noirs, Champagne, non vintage: Wow. Really lovely, bright exuberant sparkler. Ebullient mousse, fine bead, great nose of key lime, green apple, watermelon and ginger. Orange blossom. Brioche. Very vinous. Bracing, full and fresh on the palate. More citrus and strawberry fruit. Wonderful balance and integration start to finish. Just brilliant!

***Kathryn Kennedy, Estate Vineyard, Santa Cruz, cabernet sauvignon, 1992: Interesting and over all very nice. This winery has always marched to the beat of a different drummer. As such, it is no surprise that the notes on this wine are unique: bright pomegranate/rhubarb, tagine-stewed meats, exotic, Indian spices, moka harar coffee. Palate coating and at the same time a bit racy, blind I would not have guessed California cabernet (and it is 100% cab). Finish is silky and integrated. Delicious both for its unique signature and for its wide, open style.

**+Louis M. Martini, Monte Rosso vineyard, Sonoma Valley, zinfandel, 1987: A science experiment and…It’s alive! This was a commemorative bottling, celebrating the 100th birthday (1887-1987) of Louis Martini (who passed away in 1974). Honestly, I expected this wine to have passed away as well. And while no one will confuse it with the most recent Turley release, it is worth drinking. Surprisingly bright ruby hue, with bricking on the rim. Somewhat reduced nose of red fruit, rose petals, licorice with tell tale soy, tomato skin and a balsamic quality. Still, surprisingly fresh and clean. Bright palate with more red fruit, chocolate, black pepper, stewed meats. The finish still offers fine, furry tannic structure which finishes with a touch of sweetness. A nice, quaffable, easy going red.

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