Wine of Merit: ***++Chateau Gruaud Larose, 2nd growth, St. Julien, Haut Medoc, Bordeaux, 2005: Wow. What a stately wine. Believe the hype for this vintage. I am a gruaud head and was surprised when my Dad opened this up – I imagined that it would be impenetrable at this age. Instead it was a joy. No question that this wine is still primal and still a brute – but it is perfectly balanced, limitless in its depth and well integrated front to back. Great black fruit, chalk a touch of loamy soil, this wine will progress and nuance as it ages. Now it can be enjoyed for its succulence, power and grace. Wonderful wine – I’m excited I got a case! What a buy at $50 a pop!
***+Eric Texier, Brezeme, Vielles Vignes Perqualt, Cote du Rhone, 2005: I have commented on this wine in the past and was less than overwhelmed. Well, it has hit its stride and then some. Wonderful, meal in a glass nuances and textures. Dynamite wine that offers so much more than what I think of as typical CDR (in fact it is 100% syrah). Rosemary, black olive, lavender, tar, scorched earth…just layers and layers. Lots of thick, ripe mixed berry pie just unloads from the glass. Wonderful, velvety mouth feel and considerable depth. Coating front to back. Fine, sweet medium length finish. Delicious and a great value. Drink or hold.
***Fattoria Le Puppille, Saffredi, IGT, Toscana, 2004: A remembrance of our recent trip to the Maremma …and what a wonderful concoction of cabernet, merlot and alicante! Initially a bit reticent from the glass, this wine filled out quickly. Like many of the French varietal oriented Maremma wines, the varietal nature of the grapes cannot but be influenced by the wonderful, exuberant “Italianess” that the Maremma imbues into its soils. Very much in a fruit driven style, the nose of this wine is juicy, ripe blackberries and sugarplums, floral lavender, rosemary and pine needles, earth and a wonderful, powdery “C Howard Violet Chewing Gum” thing that I adore and that fills the senses. Surprisingly, the palate showed some thinness in the middle, though it added a very nice black pepper and leather note to the fruit and flowers. The finish was long and chewy. While I often take serious points away for a lack of integration and balance, this was a very nice wine. I have read where some have afforded this huge scores…I would consider it fun and very much worth a romp. At $80 this seems upside down to me.
**Walter Hansel, Estate, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2002: Past its prime. Walter Hansel makes wines that impress a great deal at first blush – the term “burgundian” is often thrown about. Not this time. Tell tale dark golden hue. Wine offers lovely minerality , some white peach but mostly faded fruit and a touch of madiera. Lots of hazelnut from toasted oak barrels. Palate is still firm and a bit racy. Lots of spice and a slight bitterness on the finish. A style of wine that flatters in its youth but struggles with bottle age.
***+Eric Texier, Brezeme, Vielles Vignes Perqualt, Cote du Rhone, 2005: I have commented on this wine in the past and was less than overwhelmed. Well, it has hit its stride and then some. Wonderful, meal in a glass nuances and textures. Dynamite wine that offers so much more than what I think of as typical CDR (in fact it is 100% syrah). Rosemary, black olive, lavender, tar, scorched earth…just layers and layers. Lots of thick, ripe mixed berry pie just unloads from the glass. Wonderful, velvety mouth feel and considerable depth. Coating front to back. Fine, sweet medium length finish. Delicious and a great value. Drink or hold.
***Fattoria Le Puppille, Saffredi, IGT, Toscana, 2004: A remembrance of our recent trip to the Maremma …and what a wonderful concoction of cabernet, merlot and alicante! Initially a bit reticent from the glass, this wine filled out quickly. Like many of the French varietal oriented Maremma wines, the varietal nature of the grapes cannot but be influenced by the wonderful, exuberant “Italianess” that the Maremma imbues into its soils. Very much in a fruit driven style, the nose of this wine is juicy, ripe blackberries and sugarplums, floral lavender, rosemary and pine needles, earth and a wonderful, powdery “C Howard Violet Chewing Gum” thing that I adore and that fills the senses. Surprisingly, the palate showed some thinness in the middle, though it added a very nice black pepper and leather note to the fruit and flowers. The finish was long and chewy. While I often take serious points away for a lack of integration and balance, this was a very nice wine. I have read where some have afforded this huge scores…I would consider it fun and very much worth a romp. At $80 this seems upside down to me.
**Walter Hansel, Estate, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2002: Past its prime. Walter Hansel makes wines that impress a great deal at first blush – the term “burgundian” is often thrown about. Not this time. Tell tale dark golden hue. Wine offers lovely minerality , some white peach but mostly faded fruit and a touch of madiera. Lots of hazelnut from toasted oak barrels. Palate is still firm and a bit racy. Lots of spice and a slight bitterness on the finish. A style of wine that flatters in its youth but struggles with bottle age.
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