Thursday, May 15, 2008

Wine Musings Vol#55


Wine of Merit: ****Castello dei Rampolla, Sammarco, Toscana, Rosso, 1997: A tale of two wines. At first this cab based Italian is decidedly international in style – blind I would have guessed California merlot. Lovely, velvety red fruit, lavender, chocolate…a full coating palate with more yummy red fruit, licorice, chalk and cafĂ© au lait…just delicious…but somehow a bit of a recipe wine. Amazingly with time, this wine changes completely. Two hours in and this wine introduces strawberry rhubarb, baking spices, soaped saddle leather, a touch racy, great minerality…now that’s Italian! Interesting how the cab works as a back drop – maybe more of a structural support platform - for the two other elements (Merlot and Sangiovese) that are actually very much in the minority in this wine. A real treat!

***++La Spinetta, Pin, Monferrato, Rosso, 1999: Masculine and sophisticated. This is still a very big wine, with I am sure decades of longevity left. It is however also balanced and nicely integrated, and thus wonderful to drink right now. Deep, thick blue fruit, some pine and lots of minerals on the brooding nose, this wine exhibits predominantly Nebbiolo characteristics up front. Palate coating, firmly tannic and evidencing integrated medium toast new French oak, the body is almost more Bordeaux than traditional Piemontese. With time, the Nebbiolo surrenders to at least an integrated element of the Barbera, introducing more traditional Italian red fruit and smoke. An extremely well crafted wine that I will continue to cellar with enthusiasm – and at under $50 an amazing buy.

***+Talty, Talty Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley, zinfandel, 2004: Talty is tasty! This was a new winery for me – and a welcomed introduction to be sure. This wine is all about freshness – one whiff and I can close my eyes and be transported directly to the Dry Creek, barrel sampling at a number of my favorite wineries up on Dry Creek Road. Very, very berry driven, this wine is laden with fresh fruit, herbs and minerals and packs a wallop of black pepper to go with (I understand there is a decent dose of Petite Sirah in here – I can taste it). Not overripe or hot at all, it is really about the freshness and a very light hand in the winemaking process. While my zin collection has dwindled down to a select few producers (Doug Nalle being chief among them) – this Talty wine gives me confidence to go back and see what else might be going on out there. Just delicious!

***Matanzas Creek, Sonoma County, merlot, 1990: Wonderful, mature Sonoma merlot. Made back in the day when this label was truly representative of the best merlot made in California. Deep, deep, perfumed black fruits, a touch of soy, spice box and church incense, including a hint of the lavender this estate has become so noted for. Thinning a bit mid palate, it still shows great black/red fruit and liquid minerals. The finish is still surprisingly firm if fine and sweet. Dynamite wine. Give it some air and drink up.

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