Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Wine Musings Vol#61


Wine of Merit: ***+Chateau Beychevelle, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1989: Classic elegance. As a huge fan of southern St. Julien wines, I have always felt that Beychevelle should be capable of better things…the gravelly vineyards, the history, the vicinity to Ducru and Gruaud…and the 89 shows some of that potential. Not that this wine reminds me of the others mentioned…it is lighter, more feminine…perhaps more Margaux-like. Not overly structured or showy, this wine is instead sophisticated and nuanced, with lovely, perfumed red and black berry fruit, floral rose petal, chocolate mint and sandalwood incense spice. Lithe and clean on the palate it is still coating and offers nice integration, great minerals and balance. The finish is firm but fine and surprisingly long. A dynamite wine from an extraordinary vintage.

***Paul Hobbs, Richard Dinner vineyard, Sonoma Mountain, chardonnay, 2002: Full throttle…really all singing all dancing. Deep golden hue, thick, opulent lemon custard, linseed, candied orange zest, honeyed fig, hazelnut. Oily, viscous palate…a bit of heat on the long, spicy finish. 14.8% alcohol boys and girls. Huge wine. Not degrading but I am guessing perhaps even better on release. Still…Delicious!

***Flowers Winery, Estate vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2002: Aging gracefully. Golden hued, the wine is still vibrant and full of life: keylime, honeysuckle, marzipan, white peaches and minerals. Bright, racy palate, with more minerals and almond paste. Like the Hobbs, probably better on release but still very much worth drinking. Great!

**++Double Diamond, Amber Knoll vineyard, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: Experts only! Actually, this wine is very approachable and pretty wide open. Made for Schrader by Thomas Rivers Brown. Open knit and juicy, I do not think this wine is particularly age worthy. Pop and pour. Nice nuances of church incense, soy, chocolate and licorice, some rose petal, eucalyptus and sandalwood. The palate feels very Silverado Trail to me (it is actually Lake county), lively but already resolved, spicy, peppery with more of that succulent red berry / black cherry fruit. Very nice if not particularly complicated or sophisticated. A good glass of red wine over the short term. I also like the 75 wine cellars execution of this vineyard, perhaps even a tad more.

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