Thursday, May 13, 2010

Wine Musings Vol#99

For this issue of the musings we invite a special guest, John Caldarella, to take us to Bordeaux:

Chateau Pavie Macquin, St.Emilion, Bordeaux, 1999: I have found 1999 Bordeaux to be one of the most underrated vintages of Bordeaux. I have enjoyed 1999s from over a dozen Chateau ranging from Pauillac on the Left through Margaux on the Right and I have yet to be disappointed. The 99s were approachable early and have shown, at this point, to be delightful as they mature into their second decade.Tonight's example, from Saint-Emilion, has a wonderful nose of black truffle, soy, a little meat fat, and dark berry - in that order. As the wine opens the fruit becomes more expressive on the palate. While the wine is of medium body it finishes cleanly and its finely evolved tannins, quite frankly, exude character...more broken-in Benz than Jag. Lovely.




Wine of Merit: ****+Joseph Phelps, Insignia, cabernet sauvignon, Napa Valley, 1986:
Simply stated, a great wine. Surprisingly youthful. After a long decant, swirling notes of cedar, cassis, fresh plum, nicoise olive, herb de Provence and that bright, laser focused mint/eucalyptus note for which this wine has become famous. While later vintages have yielded to popular tastes, this wine remains a classic. Great structure, great balance, great finesse. Honestly, I am reminded of Mouton from the same vintage. Classic. Drink or hold.

****+ Kongsgaard, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2005: In looking through the blog, I noted that I have posted on the 2005 Judge, but not the base chardonnay. Well, it is fabulous. Unctuous, deep, perfumed and yet precise and focused. A melange of citrus, tree blossoms, honey comb, jasmine, subtle earthiness. A hint of tobacco. Flattering on the palate but detailed with a solid mineral backbone right through to the long finish. Hard not to gush about this wine. Expensive and clearly worth it.

****Dunn, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1993: Amazing. A brute that is just now even interested in flexing its muscles. Deep blue/black fruits, bramble, rocky minerals. Complimentary notes of cedar and sage. Amazing purity and depth. The palate belies its heavy weight status. The finish is the knockout. If the Insignia is Mouton, this is Latour in a big vintage. It is my understanding that the cellar master of Latour, upon trying a Dunn HM wine from around this vintage, decided that he could make a Latour from this terroir. I think his effort is called Notre Vin and is finally available for sale. I totally believe it and would be interested in how that project is turning out. Honestly, with the exception of Outpost True, I am disappointed by many of the HM efforts these days. This 1993 HM reminds me of the potential!

***++ Cedric Bouchard, Roses de Jeanne, Haut Lamblee, Blanc de blancs, champagne, 2005: Ephemeral, crisp mousse and tiny bead. Bright, crisp green apple, dried apricot, marzipan, Asian pear. Crisp, dry and mineral on the palate, with a star fruit/kiwi tang. A great food champagne. 100% chardonnay with no wood and no dosage. Delicious!

***+Sottimano, Vigne Masua, Curra, barbaresco, 2000: Delicious and clearly still a baby. Wonderful notes of potpourri, licorice root, smoke and dusty, baker's chocolate are easily coaxed from the glass. Everything about this wine is big. Voluminous, coating mouth feel. Big tannic backbone. Chocolate, fruit, pepper finish. Just a meal by itself. A wine to drink while pondering the good things in life. Super.

***+Antichi Vignetti di Cantalupo, Collis Carellae, Ghemme, 1996: A Spanna of very high quality. Much more focused and sophisticated than the Vallana offering. This wine is very reminiscent of its neighboring Barolo, with nuanced aromatics of rose hip, rhubarb,white strawberry and spice. Base notes of tar and licorice root. Palate glides with bright, integrated acids front to back, more red fruit and peppery spice. Medium,fine finish. Great food wine.

***Habit, Happy Canyon, sauvignon blanc, 2009: A new wine made from grapes grown in the Santa Ynez valley, with Dave Margerum consulting. I love the label - and the wine inside as well! A sauvignon blanc that is more ultra chill than exuberant, it offers sophisticated notes of chamomile, freshly cut grass and wild flowers, accompanied by Sicilian citron and muted tropical fruit notes. The palate is suave, layered and generous, with little of that typical young SB bite, surprising as this wine sees no oak at all. While only 50 cases were made, it is worth looking for if you can find it. Happy hunting!

***Gerard Boulay, Sancerre Rose, Chavignol, 2009: As spring turns into summer, thoughts turn to beaches, picnics, flip flops...and chavignol rose. And chief amongst them Gerard Boulay's Chavignol. Juicy, energetic, pink tropical fruits, peonies, a bit of flint...everything that is needed to enjoy the weather. Structured enough to enjoy with cool summer fare but delicious solo, this wine is for me one of the telltale signs of summer. As James Taylor says, "Summer's here...I'm for that!"

**++Windgap, Russian River Valley, pinot gris, 2008
: Another winner from Pax Mahle's new label. A very different iteration of pinot gris, this wine is vinified in two batches; one is whole cluster prerssed and barreled down, the other crushed and left to age on the skins. After a year or so they are blended. The resulting wine is light orange hued, more akin to a rose then a white, though it is fermented dry. Aromas and palate are fresh and vibrant, with elements of queen Anne cherry, peach, crenshaw melon and apricot. Good acids and a nice mineral note. A great summer wine (12.3% abv), it actually was best with food. Fun!

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Wine Musings Vol#98


Wine of Merit: ****Woodward Canyon, Columbia Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1989: A revelation. Superb. Very reminiscent of a Pichon Comtesse de Lalande of the same vintage. Somewhat feminine and red fruit driven, elements of nicoise olive, graphite, cassis, lavender and toasted black bread, a floral tisane note. Gliding on the palate, with more red fruit and cassis. Lingering, fine, resolving finish. Just gorgeous.

***++Leonetti Cellar, Walla Walla Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Still quite vibrant and fresh. Wonderful, nuanced cabernet notes of leather, autumn leaves and cherry pipe tobacco. Plum/Panforte and tar. Full coating palate, lovely depth and grip. Fine, tingly finish with more mint and berry fruit. Perfect drinking window. Great!

***+JC Cellars, Frediani vineyard, Napa Valley, petite syrah, 1998: I am not a big petite syrah fan. That said, this was a wonderful wine! In my cellar since release, the wine has developed wonderfully integrated black fruit, caramelized fig and spicy broad leaf cigar tobacco notes. Calla Lilly with time in the glass. Super interesting but all integrated and nuanced. Balanced, full palate, lively peppery, meaty finish. A big - and very pleasant - surprise. Wonderful!

***+Bodegas Muga, Rioja Reserva, Tempernaillo, 2001: A wonderful wine at a great value. Spicy red fruit, iron, grilled meats, saddle leather, garrigue and a touch of iodine. Great complexity with clean flavors and focus. Palate is a touch racy with good attack, more red fruit and Malabar pepper and no drop offs. Fine, long spicy finish. A dynamite food wine that continues to improve and nuance.

***+Del Dotto, Napa valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1997: Prototypical. Wonderful cassis, cedar, plum and tobacco. Pronounced creamy, chocolate mint. Great depth and richness but not overripe or exaggerated at all. Flattering, generous mouth feel front to back. Long, lingering spicy finish. Yum!

***Windgap, Fannucchi vineyard, Trousseau Gris, 2009: A lovely, lighter weight summer sipper. Bright, lemon citrus zest and juicy green apple notes. Candied ginger and cardamom. Excellent snap and acid bite. Pure mineral backbone all the way to the finish. With time in the glass, a floral, almost acacia note is added. Bring on the summer heat!