Wine of Merit: **** Cliff Lede Vineyards, Poetry, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2006: This is a magnificent wine. Very much a vin de garde. Chiseled features, this wine has profound depth, focus, concentration and structure. Muscular. Never, however, angular or out of balance or brutish in any way. Black fruit, chalky minerals, lead pencil, a hint of something more nuanced like raw tobacco leaf. One to put away with confidence. Intense.
****Ben Glaetzer, Amon-Ra, Shiraz, Barossa Valley, 2005: Equally worthy is the Amon Ra from Ben Glaetzer. A majestic wine. Deep, concentrated, deftly balanced. Blue and black fruit, an undertone of grilled meat that becomes more pronounced with air, bramble, a huge whiff of exotic, tagine spices...this wine has it all. Powerful but never lacking grace. Long, firm, graceful finish. A wonder.
***++Donnhoff, Niederhauser Hermannshohle, Nahe, Riesling Auslese, 2002: I have tracked this wine over time and it has never been better than right now. Orange blossom and oleander, petrol, dried apricot, minerals. Rich and textured, oily but not heavy in anyway. Lovely balance. Minerals and spice on the lingering finish. Delicious.
***+ Jean Claude Boisset, 1er Cru “Les Chaponnières”, Pommard, 2005: A suave Pommard made in a very natural style. Deep red fruit, pronounced chocolate covered apricot slices (I love those), mulling spice a great mineral backbone. Silky smooth palate feel with a firm structure front to back. 13% abv and the structure bode well for longer term cellaring, but hard to resist right now. I should have bought more!
***+W.S. Keyes, Howell Mountain, merlot, 2006: This was a wine that evolved significantly in the glass. Initially all about milk chocolate and caramel, it took on weight and nuance with air. Deep plum, crushed violet, grilled meat. A forest floor element. Velvety, generous mouthfeel. Long finish. From what was the Liparita vineyards. Lovely.
***+Eric Texier, Brezeme, Domaine Pergault, Villes Vignes, Cotes de Rhone, 2005: A 5 year old CdR just hitting its stride. Welcome to the world of Eric Texier. 100% Syrah, this wine is signing right now. Gorgeous, perfumed red currant, black berry fruited tisane, brier, violet, a real melange. The palate slides and glides, adding minerals and nice structure through to the fine finish. Someone suggested this is a baby Hermitage and I would agree.
***Le Clos Jordanne, Niagara, Ontario, chardonnay, 2006: Beauty, eh? (Sorry couldn't resist). Actually, this wine is a beauty. Clean, bright lemon/grapefruit notes, white pear, flinty mineral, an added element of grilled fennel on the palate, excellent acids and verve, a long, spicy finish. By pure serendipity this wine is owned and made by the Boisset family above mentioned. An excellent effort. A classy chardonnay from the great white north.
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