Thursday, June 4, 2009

Wine Musings Vol#84


Wine of Merit: ****++Chateau D’Yquem, Sauternes, Bordeaux, 1996: Ethereal. I have had this wine before and it has never performed so well. A great example of a superlative d’yquem. Honey comb, tobacco, minerals, a floral mélange of vetiver, verbena, lavender and Lilly of the Valley scent, candied citrus zest, a touch of white pepper lithe and yet serious. Wonderful depth on the palate with more orange zest and minerals. Endless finish. Just outstanding.

****+Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, Hermitage, 1996: A masterpiece. Powerful red fruit, cinnamon, white pepper, tar and briar. Amazing depth, cut and delineation. Firm palate but perfectly balanced and integrated front to back. Ridiculously long finish of pepper, soy and mineral. Great the next day and the day after that as well.

****Bodegas Vega Sicilia, Unico, Ribera del Duero, 1996: A giant. Still very primal. Surprisingly new world in its signature. Essence of blueberry, tagine spices, briar, floral acacia, vanilla bean, café au lait. Beautiful, coating, juicy palate. Good focus and length. Very fresh. Charmingly puerile, still growing into its frame.

***++Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume, Loire, 1996: Hedonism exemplified. Baked apricots covered in honey, clove, cinnamon, candied ginger, lemon custard. Deep, deep unctuous aromas. A real come hither wine. I loved it. Thick, viscous palate, medium long ripe crème anglais finish. A romp. Wonderful.

***Domaine Huet, Clos du Bourg, Moelleux, Vouvray, 1996: Somewhere in between. Not the elegance of the D’Yquem or the sensuality of the Baumard. Fresh, ripe cantaloupe aromas, a touch of watermelon, quince. Delicious and light on the palate. Lovely and refreshing.

*+Querciabella, Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany, 1996: Seriously maderized. Fun to taste for its volatile, creamy blackberry and cherry sherry-like qualities. But not worth drinking more than a glass. Smoke ‘em if you got ‘em.