Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Wine Musings Vol#89


***+Wine of Merit: Shane Wines, Jemrose vineyard, Bennett Valley, syrah, 2007: Notably opaque and inky. Complex aromas of iron, wet stone, grilled meats and spiced red fruit. With time cafe au lait and a floral, violet note. Rich and layered, picking up more chocolate and spice on the palate. Lovely integration and balance. Lingering, mineral finish. A new producer for me and one to watch with enthusiasm.

***+Domaine de l' Aigueliere, Cote Doree, Montpeyroux, Coteaux du Languedoc, syrah, 1995: I have enjoyed the evolution of this wine since its issuance. Initially very pronounced and almost challenging to drink, the Cote Doree has mellowed in its old age, now offering a lovely melange of lavender, fresh oregano, red fruit, licorice root, cured meats and smoke. Just delicious. The palate is playfully racy and sweet, the finish fine, balanced and of medium length. Patience has its virtues after all.

***Arcadian, Fiddlestix vineyard, Santa Rita Hills, pinot noir, 2004: Garnet hued, with nuanced aromas of licorice, cinnamon, tisane and sour cherry. The palate is firm, with pronounced minerals, black pepper, more racy red fruit and a long, mineral, tannic finish. Complex and perhaps still holding much in reserve. Worth it.

**++Antonio Vallana e Figlio, Boca, Piemonte, nebbiolo, 1996: A wonderfully interesting, aged nebbiolo. Prominent notes of oxidized iron, turned earth, nicoise olive, plum, dried cherry and cranberry. Nuances of baker's chocolate and tar. Acids are still bright and the palate is lively. Great integration and a fine, resolving finish. Refreshing after so many "international" wines.

**++Shane Wines, The Unknown, Sonoma County, syrah, 2007: A much cooler profile than the Jemrose. More blue and black fruits, coated in chocolate, mint and violets. More pronounced on the palate, picking up malabar pepper and rich, dark roasted coffee. Delicious.

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