Wine of Merit: ***+Altesino, Brunello di Montalcino, 2001: Quintessential BdM. Delicious, stately and elegant yet warm and inviting. Dark, black cherry notes, caramelized brown sugar, fresh earth. Full but gliding palate. Furry, resolving finish. Wonderful integration and nuanced layers. Super wine.
***+Cantina del Pino, Ovello, Barbaresco, 2004: Mammoth. Chewy expansive notes of black cherry liqueur, bakers chocolate, clove, brier. A nice high tone of rose petal. The palate is coating front to back, significant presence of new oak ads a hazelnut quality, the length on the finish measured in minutes. Clearly made for the long haul.
***+Vietti, Masseria, Barbaresco, 2001: A favorite. Perhaps more developed than I would have assumed, this wine is nonetheless delicious and ready for prime time. Mature, warm mineral notes of black licorice, truffle, tar and ripe plum. The palate is ripe and coating but not dense and chewy. Lovely integration, with a fine finish.
***Calera, Jensen Vineyard, Central Coast, pinot noir, 1985: An oldy but a goody. Surprisingly fresh. Lovely, mature varietal notes waft up with little coaxing. The wine is full and willing, far from fragile. Nice palate feel, red fruit, tisane, rose hip, Asian spice. Fine, medium finish that suggests no hurry. Delightful.
***Elena Fucci, Titolo, Basilicata, Aglianico del Vulture, 2005: A rustic southern Italian charmer. Lovely, big boned aglianico notes of bright, effusive raspberry and cherry, crushed slate, Malabar pepper, licorice root. Eucalyptus. Expansive palate, enormous finish. The Sofia Loren of wines. Give this time and food.
**++Arns, Estate, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1993: A nice example of the varietal, the vintage and the style of the time. Pensive, red fruit driven style, black pepper, green tea lots of minerals. Thinning slightly. palate is a touch racy but overall elegant. Finish is still firm.
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