Wine of Merit: ***++Gravner, Estate, Friuli Venezia Giulia, ribolla gialla, 2000: I love this wine. Initially demure, with time and air it opens up to reveal that crazy Gravner complexity: All grilled fennel, celery seed, dried apricot, a hint of mandarin orange. Full and generous on the palate with more citrus, honeyed tobacco...yum! An unusual wine that demands your attention. Great stuff.
***++Feudi di San Gregorio, Patrimo, Irpinia Rosso, IGT,Campagnia, 2001: Delicious. Full throttle, this wine is 100% merlot yet never strays far from its southern Italian roots. Lush, flamboyant but still big boned and muscular, it offers ripe plum, licorice and roasted chestnut notes accompanied by espresso macchiato undertones that I just love. Coating on entry, it assaults the palate with staining concentration and grip. The finish is big but not overly so...nicely balanced with the rest of this bigger than life wine. A San Gennaro festival in a glass, complete with fireworks and zeppoli. Fantastico!
***+Fattoria Viticcio, Chianti Classico Riserva, Grieve in Chianti, sangiovese, 2001: Just delicious. Bright, vibrant boysenberry, plum and red currant fruit accompanied by nervy spice box and black pepper undertones. Ample mouth feel, good tannic backbone, long fine finish. Great food wine. The essence of Chanti Classico. At under $30, this wine is a steal.
***+Failla, Keefer Ranch, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, chardonnay, 2003: Drinking great right now. Surprisingly Burgundian. Sharp, mineral, lemon lime zest notes, marzipan, baking spices and linseed. Firm acidity. More minerals, ginger and a key lime custard note on the palate. Medium long, spicy finish. All in all a very nice chardonnay.
***Aston Estate, Experimental Lot, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2004: This wine actually doesn't say Aston Estate on it. I am guessing it was from vines deemed too young to produce a finished wine...thus the experimental nature. Actually, this wine is every bit as finished as the other Aston wines. It has the signature dark, brooding black cherry nose, the forest floor elements, an note of baker's chocolate and white pepper in the background. Palate is coating and full. Finish is firm. Perhaps not quite as polished or sophisticated, it is nonetheless capable.
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