Sunday, March 16, 2008

Wine Musings: Vol#52


Wine of Merit: ****+Chateau Angelus, Estate, St. Emillion, Bordeaux, 1990: A very special wine. Initially requiring patience, this wine unfolds in layers. Two hours later, velvety aromas of plum, cigar tobacco, grilled meats, sage, lavender and mocha. Palate shows more mature red and black fruits, cardamom, baker’s spices and minerals. Coating. Long, thick, spicy finish. Almost timeless. This and Cheval Blanc are the wines I think of when I drink St. Emillion wines. Superb.

****Chateau Pichon Longueville, Comtesse de Lalande, Estate, Paulliac, Bordeaux, 1990: Quintessential Paulliac. This wine is controversial as it received lower scores at release. Here to, a wine that requires patience at initial pour. 3 hours later and it is still evolving and needs more time. Black and blue fruits, lead pencil (cedar+graphite), forest floor, candied violet, rosemary and chalk. Deep palate, ripe purple fruit with excellent minerality. With time the fruit becomes pronounced on the nose and palate, at once succulent and vibrant. Long, firmly tannic finish. Very much a buy these days (similar to the 83 Mouton awhile back) as it is overshadowed by other vintages and higher scores – but is very worthy (as was found out in the 83 Mouton – try buying it today).

****Kongsgaard, VioRuss, Napa Valley, viognier / roussanne, 2005: Superlative. I decided to open this bottle after tasting the Whetstone viognier. My recollection had been that this wine was significantly better than the Whetstone - could it be? Yes, Virginia, there is a Santa Clause. A completely different wine experience. Expansive, lush but not flabby or vague, this is a wine that I could bathe in happily. Soaring notes of apricot, tangerine, almond and vanilla accompany enveloping scents of Hibiscus and Lilac. More orange zest, marzipan and nutmeg on the deep palate, excellent minerality, long powdered sugar and mulling spice finish. Are you serious? Fantastic!

***++Veuve Cliquot Ponsardin, La Grande Dame, Reims, Champagne, 1990: Superb. Granny Smith apple pie. A wonderful accompanying note of lime and orange blossom. Lemon chiffon on the palate. Great acidity. Aged but not old – this wine has plenty of stuffing. A wonderful way to start a meal.

***++Spottswoode, Estate, St. Helena, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1996: Delicious. Candied nose of blueberries, raspberries, milk chocolate, white flowers. Ripe red fruited palate, good minerals, hazelnut and coffee. Nice, spicy finish. A great wine to have with a chocolate desert! Yummy.

***Chateau Clarke, Listrac Medoc, Bodeaux, 2003: A Wonderful value. Baron Edmund Rothschild’s investment has really paid off. This is a dynamite wine at a great price (under $30). Classic, dense, chewy Bordeaux. Nose of cassis, plum, leather, forest bottom licorice and smoke. Firm, coating palate offers more black fruit, minerals, espresso and chocolate. Long, fine, firm finish. Will continue to evolve with cellaring though it offers plenty of pleasure right now. Hard to beat!

**++Bjornstad, Van der Kamp Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2005: Better. Having been generally disappointed with the Bjornstad wines, this is at least better than average. Possessing the vineyard specific length and grip that Van der Kamp is known for, this wine has good depth and minerality, suggesting it will benefit from some laying down. The nose is also deep, black cherry, cinnamon, forest floor and tea notes. Some spice box. Already throwing a ton of sediment, this feels like a pretty “sauvage” wine that will take on complexity as it ages. Long finish. Good effort.

1 comment:

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