Wine of Merit: ***+Chateau La Nerthe, Chateauneuf du Pape, 2004: Ripe and delicious. Mostly Grenache, this wine is a wonderful example of what Chateauneuf can offer when the weather cooperates and ripeness of fruit is attained. Wonderful, roiling aromas of blackberry, grilled meats, black olive, rosemary, bittersweet chocolate are available right from the glass. Notes of black licorice and pepper – and deep minerals - are added on a very welcoming, coating, open knit palate. Excellent structure holds this wine together and integrates perfectly with the long, fine finish. A youngster, this wine is great now and can be cellared confidently for 10 years. At under $40…Terrific!
***+Whetstone, Pleasant Hill Vineyard, Russian River Valley, 2006: Jamie Whetstone is one of the up and coming winemakers in Northern California. I am a VERY big fan of the wine he makes for Jocelyn Lonen. After a spotty past making over extracted wines for Turley Cellars, I think he is finally beginning to appreciate how important balance, integration and natural flavors can be to the endeavor of crafting great wine. Previous Whetstone pinot noir efforts have not been, in my opinion, nearly as good as this one. Make no mistake, this wine is big and deep. Even cloaked in baby fat, this wine exhibits lots of structure and intensity of flavor, with bolts of red currant fruit, pomegranate and creamy Queen Anne cherry notes jumping from the glass . But now this wine has balance – and the flavors integrated flawlessly with one another to create a harmonious presence. Added to the fruit are warm baking spices, a touch of pine and marjoram. Yes the wine shows a steel spine and a firm, if fine, tannic finish, but they are deftly integrated, cloaked by velvety red fruit, liquid minerals and white pepper. A very classy effort, this wine will age nicely in the cellar but can be appreciated in the short term for its youthful exuberance. At $50, this wine is appropriately priced. Nicely done!
***Boudin, Fourchaume, Chablis 1er Cru, 2005: Lovely – and surprisingly ready to drink. I have a thing for Chablis. I welcome its slightly more austere character and the malic, nuanced, mineral nature of the chardonnay made from that region. Typically however time is required in the cellar before the aromatic elements can be coaxed out and the biting acidity has a chance to tone itself down a bit. This wine delivers all of those aromatic cues and a bright but not abrasive palate...all at a surprisingly young age. Pale straw in color, this young Chablis steps to the fore with wonderful Anjou pear, Meyer lemon and Calla Lilly aromatics. Surprisingly rich, the palate is bracing but not biting, adding dynamite minerality and more citrus…now perhaps more toward tangerine. Long, spicy, mineral finish. At under $30 a bottle I have to recommend this wine strongly as a great value. Wonderful!
***Tenuta Sette Ponti, Crognolo, Toscana, 2004: Delicious. This wine is Sette Ponte’s “other” wine – their flagship effort Oreno getting most of the ink and accolades (see vol#8 for my musings). I find the Crognolo, a 50/50 sangiovese/merlot blend, much more to my liking. Where the Oreno is the poster child for the international style of winemaking, this wine celebrates its sense of place – there is no mistaking this for anything other than Italian. Further, while I appreciate purity and focus of fruit, this wine is not afraid to accompany its cherry and blackberry flavors with nuances of black truffle, earth and funghi trifolati (sautéed wild mushrooms with garlic and parsley) – making the wine an ideal complement for lamb or any roasted meats. The palate is full but not lush, as the acids are bright and more in the foreground. An added element of espresso bean and vanilla on the fine, silky finish hint at toasted oak. A super food wine and at under $30, a much better bargain than the $70+ Oreno. Great!
**Babcock Grand Cuvee, Santa Barbara County, chardonnay, 2006: I have loved the Grand Cuvee in past vintages. The 1998 was actually very special (See Musings Vol#2). This wine seems to have conceded the Babcock estate “Corton-ness” I knew and loved for more traditional, mass produced cali chardonnay elements. Tart, bright bubble gum and pineapple juice notes are immediately evident with nary a swirl required. The wine is full on the palate with more tropical fruit, some citrus, verbena and vanilla. The finish seems almost sugary but tart at the same time…a sweet tart finish? Not my style…
***+Whetstone, Pleasant Hill Vineyard, Russian River Valley, 2006: Jamie Whetstone is one of the up and coming winemakers in Northern California. I am a VERY big fan of the wine he makes for Jocelyn Lonen. After a spotty past making over extracted wines for Turley Cellars, I think he is finally beginning to appreciate how important balance, integration and natural flavors can be to the endeavor of crafting great wine. Previous Whetstone pinot noir efforts have not been, in my opinion, nearly as good as this one. Make no mistake, this wine is big and deep. Even cloaked in baby fat, this wine exhibits lots of structure and intensity of flavor, with bolts of red currant fruit, pomegranate and creamy Queen Anne cherry notes jumping from the glass . But now this wine has balance – and the flavors integrated flawlessly with one another to create a harmonious presence. Added to the fruit are warm baking spices, a touch of pine and marjoram. Yes the wine shows a steel spine and a firm, if fine, tannic finish, but they are deftly integrated, cloaked by velvety red fruit, liquid minerals and white pepper. A very classy effort, this wine will age nicely in the cellar but can be appreciated in the short term for its youthful exuberance. At $50, this wine is appropriately priced. Nicely done!
***Boudin, Fourchaume, Chablis 1er Cru, 2005: Lovely – and surprisingly ready to drink. I have a thing for Chablis. I welcome its slightly more austere character and the malic, nuanced, mineral nature of the chardonnay made from that region. Typically however time is required in the cellar before the aromatic elements can be coaxed out and the biting acidity has a chance to tone itself down a bit. This wine delivers all of those aromatic cues and a bright but not abrasive palate...all at a surprisingly young age. Pale straw in color, this young Chablis steps to the fore with wonderful Anjou pear, Meyer lemon and Calla Lilly aromatics. Surprisingly rich, the palate is bracing but not biting, adding dynamite minerality and more citrus…now perhaps more toward tangerine. Long, spicy, mineral finish. At under $30 a bottle I have to recommend this wine strongly as a great value. Wonderful!
***Tenuta Sette Ponti, Crognolo, Toscana, 2004: Delicious. This wine is Sette Ponte’s “other” wine – their flagship effort Oreno getting most of the ink and accolades (see vol#8 for my musings). I find the Crognolo, a 50/50 sangiovese/merlot blend, much more to my liking. Where the Oreno is the poster child for the international style of winemaking, this wine celebrates its sense of place – there is no mistaking this for anything other than Italian. Further, while I appreciate purity and focus of fruit, this wine is not afraid to accompany its cherry and blackberry flavors with nuances of black truffle, earth and funghi trifolati (sautéed wild mushrooms with garlic and parsley) – making the wine an ideal complement for lamb or any roasted meats. The palate is full but not lush, as the acids are bright and more in the foreground. An added element of espresso bean and vanilla on the fine, silky finish hint at toasted oak. A super food wine and at under $30, a much better bargain than the $70+ Oreno. Great!
**Babcock Grand Cuvee, Santa Barbara County, chardonnay, 2006: I have loved the Grand Cuvee in past vintages. The 1998 was actually very special (See Musings Vol#2). This wine seems to have conceded the Babcock estate “Corton-ness” I knew and loved for more traditional, mass produced cali chardonnay elements. Tart, bright bubble gum and pineapple juice notes are immediately evident with nary a swirl required. The wine is full on the palate with more tropical fruit, some citrus, verbena and vanilla. The finish seems almost sugary but tart at the same time…a sweet tart finish? Not my style…
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