Wine of NO MERIT: ??? Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Paulliac, Bordeaux, 1978: This wine was a DQ - at an important celebration - as it was heavily maderized. The cork was in shambles. I publish this only to remind myself and others that buying older vintage wine on the secondary market is very much akin to buying a watch on Canal Street in NYC. Good luck. I bought this watch...er wine...from what I would have thought to be a reputable source. It was crap and had clearly been stored very badly. I promise myself that from now on - unless it is from an estate re-release or from someone like the Rare Wine Company in Sonoma, I am not buying these email list "rare gems" anymore. Harummph!
***+A. Rafanelli, Dry Creek Valley, zinfandel, 2005: Mmmm. I love Raffanelli zins. This wine is big, bright, brassy red raspberry, spice box, cigar tobacco. Yum! The palate is a bit racy but delivers zingy red fruit and white pepper. Firm but integrated finish. Really delicious and a big crowd pleaser. Great example of a Dry Creek zin – which in my opinion are the best ones on earth!
***+Franciscan, Magnificat, Napa Valley, 2004: A bruiser. This is Franciscan’s Bordeaux-like meritage, assembling cabernet, merlot and a dollop of cab franc for a dynamite wine. Deep, brooding, black fruit, tobacco, cassis and sage. Seamless. Big wine with lots of stuffing, it requires a piece or grilled red meat or perhaps some cellaring time to really show its stuff. Firm palate leads to a big, but well integrated and fine finish. A very nice wine at a very decent price point (I think it can be had for around $45). Excellent QPR.
***+Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Paulliac Bordeaux, 1988: Pulled from the cellar for a special occasion. The wine has matured a great deal in the last 5 years. Still sophisticated and black fruit driven, it has thinned just a bit. Typical graphite, cedar, cassis, forest floor and minerals with some coaxing, just not with the endless depth that I associate with this wine. The palate is full and coating as it opens up over the course of our meal – offering more black fruit, minerals and chocolate - in fact the entire wine experience benefits from air. The finish is firm and pleasing. Really, this wine is a winner, it was just so mind boggling last I had it I cannot help but be just a tad disappointed.
***+Franciscan, Magnificat, Napa Valley, 2004: A bruiser. This is Franciscan’s Bordeaux-like meritage, assembling cabernet, merlot and a dollop of cab franc for a dynamite wine. Deep, brooding, black fruit, tobacco, cassis and sage. Seamless. Big wine with lots of stuffing, it requires a piece or grilled red meat or perhaps some cellaring time to really show its stuff. Firm palate leads to a big, but well integrated and fine finish. A very nice wine at a very decent price point (I think it can be had for around $45). Excellent QPR.
***+Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Paulliac Bordeaux, 1988: Pulled from the cellar for a special occasion. The wine has matured a great deal in the last 5 years. Still sophisticated and black fruit driven, it has thinned just a bit. Typical graphite, cedar, cassis, forest floor and minerals with some coaxing, just not with the endless depth that I associate with this wine. The palate is full and coating as it opens up over the course of our meal – offering more black fruit, minerals and chocolate - in fact the entire wine experience benefits from air. The finish is firm and pleasing. Really, this wine is a winner, it was just so mind boggling last I had it I cannot help but be just a tad disappointed.
***+Galleron, Napa Valley cabernet, 2000: A mixture of Taplin and Morisoli fruit. I love the Morisoli vineyard. This wine does not disappoint – in fact it is magically delicious! Really great right now, the wine throws off serious, spicy red and black berry fruit, clove, cedar and cassis. Mint chocolate. The palate is nicely integrated and offers great balance all the way to the sweet, polished ending. Really dynamite wine.
***Ridge, Geyersville, zinfandel, 2000: I am a huge Geyserville fan. I love the field blend nature of it…and how it ages and grows in complexity. In 2000, the wine was 66% zinfandel, with a large (17%) petite sirah. Given the long growing season, this wine enjoyed great maturity of fruit – and it shows. Rich, opulent red fruit, briar and white pepper fill the glass. It is still very young and vibrant, it has not yet really developed the nuances that older Geyservilles tend to show. The palate is expansive and full, with more red fruit, spice and vanilla. At nearly 15% alcohol it is chewy, though not thick at all. The finish is long and spicy – the 2000 used more new oak (American) than it typically does. Great wine – and in no hurry at all. Drink if you like ‘em brawny or hold.
***Twomey Cellars, Napa Valley merlot, 2003: Lovely and wonderfully approachable. The 2003 vintage was hardly a blockbuster, allowing the wines to develop early. This wine is already open knit and very giving, showing lush plum and red fruit, violet, lavender and milk chocolate. Some nice rose petal nuances. Very pretty and wonderful with a cheese course. The palate is lush and friendly and the tannins are fine, sweet and long. Lavish wine. Delicious.
***Turnbull Wine Cellars, Estate Napa Valley cabernet, 2004: A huge crowd pleaser. Very accessible and yummy – this wine has all of the right elements all brought together in one bottle. Even if a touch soft, the wine sports an excellent fruit profile, tobacco, spice, a smidge of mushroom and mint chocolate to add to the complexity. Maybe a bit of a recipe wine, but yummy nonetheless. The palate is voluptuous, welcoming and coating, the finish fine and sweet, with a touch of espresso bean. It is like the Tom Hanks of wines; not intensely serious…but how can you not like it! Great value at $38. (By the way…if you want to taste the more serious side of the Turnbull estate try the wine Thomas Rivers Brown is making from up there for the Maybach family. Wow!)
***Medlock Ames, Red, Bell Mountain Alexander Valley, 2003: Delish. 50/50 estate cab merlot. Young but open knit and welcoming. Nice supporting structure. Very Sonoma Mountain-driven terroir elements of ripe red fruit, pipe tobacco, truffle, hazelnut chocolate and baking spices. Lush, round and inviting. Yummy!
***R.H. Coutier, Tradition Brut champagne, NV: Lovely for non vintage champagne. Really singular signature of freshly baked apple pie – cinnamon, vanilla, baked apples, baking spices. All the elements are there. An added element of custard-y, candied citrus zest on the brisk finish is a welcome surprise. Nice acids. Very nice indeed!
***Ridge, Geyersville, zinfandel, 2000: I am a huge Geyserville fan. I love the field blend nature of it…and how it ages and grows in complexity. In 2000, the wine was 66% zinfandel, with a large (17%) petite sirah. Given the long growing season, this wine enjoyed great maturity of fruit – and it shows. Rich, opulent red fruit, briar and white pepper fill the glass. It is still very young and vibrant, it has not yet really developed the nuances that older Geyservilles tend to show. The palate is expansive and full, with more red fruit, spice and vanilla. At nearly 15% alcohol it is chewy, though not thick at all. The finish is long and spicy – the 2000 used more new oak (American) than it typically does. Great wine – and in no hurry at all. Drink if you like ‘em brawny or hold.
***Twomey Cellars, Napa Valley merlot, 2003: Lovely and wonderfully approachable. The 2003 vintage was hardly a blockbuster, allowing the wines to develop early. This wine is already open knit and very giving, showing lush plum and red fruit, violet, lavender and milk chocolate. Some nice rose petal nuances. Very pretty and wonderful with a cheese course. The palate is lush and friendly and the tannins are fine, sweet and long. Lavish wine. Delicious.
***Turnbull Wine Cellars, Estate Napa Valley cabernet, 2004: A huge crowd pleaser. Very accessible and yummy – this wine has all of the right elements all brought together in one bottle. Even if a touch soft, the wine sports an excellent fruit profile, tobacco, spice, a smidge of mushroom and mint chocolate to add to the complexity. Maybe a bit of a recipe wine, but yummy nonetheless. The palate is voluptuous, welcoming and coating, the finish fine and sweet, with a touch of espresso bean. It is like the Tom Hanks of wines; not intensely serious…but how can you not like it! Great value at $38. (By the way…if you want to taste the more serious side of the Turnbull estate try the wine Thomas Rivers Brown is making from up there for the Maybach family. Wow!)
***Medlock Ames, Red, Bell Mountain Alexander Valley, 2003: Delish. 50/50 estate cab merlot. Young but open knit and welcoming. Nice supporting structure. Very Sonoma Mountain-driven terroir elements of ripe red fruit, pipe tobacco, truffle, hazelnut chocolate and baking spices. Lush, round and inviting. Yummy!
***R.H. Coutier, Tradition Brut champagne, NV: Lovely for non vintage champagne. Really singular signature of freshly baked apple pie – cinnamon, vanilla, baked apples, baking spices. All the elements are there. An added element of custard-y, candied citrus zest on the brisk finish is a welcome surprise. Nice acids. Very nice indeed!
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