wine musings

Wine Musings Vol#108

2011-12-19T11:19:00.005-05:00

Something Old. Something New...

Following are the somewhat sparse tasting notes from the annual wine event we host at Stately Grossman Manor last week. Most wines are directly from my cellar. A few were brought by folks who can equally attest to provenance. Where there is an exception, it is noted. This year our theme was to taste mini verticals of 3 of the same wines over fairly long periods of time (i.e. 60s to the first decade of this millennium), along with a mystery wine of the same varietal. The idea was to track aging curves and changes in style where applicable. To whit:

The first flight consisted of wines from Les Clos, a Gran Cru vineyard in Chablis for those not familiar.

Wine 1 was wonderful. Bright, crisp, citrus zest, marzipan, brine...classic Chablis. Great mouthfeel long finish. The power of the wine made me think 2007, instead it was the 1970 Les Clos (Bolter bottling) ***++.
Wine 2 was a bit oxidized showing some butterscotch. Under that however more flint, citrus and white flowers. I guessed the 1996 Brocard Le Clos *** and that was what it was. I have had 96 recently and it was not as much evolved. Might be a storage issue as I had to buy this retail to fit the tasting. YMMV.

Wine 3 was the table favorite. Lovely, filled-out, essence of orange blossom honey really stood out. Mineral and stone fruit palate. An amazing rendition of chardonnay. It was the 2007 Kongsgaard The Judge ****+ and I knew it.

Wine 4 was very much like wine 1, very tight with more tropical fruit. A prominent pineapple and coconut element! I thought wine one a bit more crisp, thus my preference. Delicious and with lots of time ahead of it. It was the 2007 Brocard Les Clos***++.

The 2nd flight was Delas Les Bessards. kinda. My bottle of 1969 St. Christophe was over the hill. So we had 2 Delas Hermitage and 2 other. Turned out to be a great flight:

Wine 1 was elegance in a glass. It was the most evolved and had nuances of herbs, grilled meats, white pepper and black and red fruit. Silky mouth feel, resolving finish but with no holes. Lovely. It was the 90 Chave Hermitage**** and I would say that it is in it's prime right now.

Wine 2 was clearly very young and made in a much more modern style. Black fruits, lavender, caramel/coffee. Big wine. I was surprised that it was the Delas 2009 Les Bessards***+. I would have pegged it for new world. Parker 100 points? Not tonight.

Wine 3 was gorgeous. Perfumed and nuanced. A super alluring note of sandalwood, red fruit, pink peppercorn, herbs. I loved this wine and thought it was the Chave. Instead it was the 1996 Les Bessards****

Wine 4 was a show stopper. Powerful, vibrant, this wine has verve. Spearmint, iodine, bell pepper. Huge, palate staining with pronounced structure. Dave called it a La Tour like wine and I agree. Amazingly, it was the 1995 Thackery Orion ****+. Wow.

The next flight was Chateau Gruaud Larose.

Wine 1 showed tell tale GL Nicoise olive, black fruit, licorice, leather and a bit of funk. I love these wines. I thought it was the 1990 Gruaud Larose ***++ and it was.

Wine 2 was similar I thought. More bell pepper and a racy red fruit driven palate. I thought it was the 78. Instead it was a 1994 Mount Mary Quintet, from Lillydale **++. Very controversial. I liked this wine very much, Dave did not at all, as did others. In any case, it was a perfect fit for this flight as it was very Bordeaux like.

Wine 3 was dusty and somewhat muted. Still showing some black fruit and green olive, it was for the most part pleasant but not of particular note. Surprisingly dark color. I have had better luck with the 1978 Gruaud Larose **+ in the past, but this bottle was tired.

Wine 4 was fantastic. Still a baby, it was initially closed, but with some coaxing showed excellent black fruit, shoe polish, licorice and minerals. Wonderful depth and super long. It was the 2000 Gruaud Larose****. A wine with a long future in front of it.

The next flight was Chateau Mouton Rothschild.

Wine 1 was everything I love about Mouton. Sexy, red fruit, cedar, menthol, cassis...really alluring. Full on the palate. Velvety. It was the 1998 Mouton****+ and one of my favorites of that decade for drinking right now.

Wine 2 was in one word DEEP. Black fruit, cassis, mineral laden classic big boned Bordeaux. Not a wine for tonight but I appreciate the depth, structure and promise for the future. it was the 1986 Mouton****+.

Wine 3 was maybe my wine of the flight. beautiful, nuanced, great depth. Red and black fruit, lead pencil, little bit of cigar box...heavenly. Solid on the palate and a fury finish. Could have knocked me over when I saw that it was the 1967 Mouton****+. Fabulous wine. Go figure.

Wine 4 was tired and a bit flabby. Some red fruit, soy, mint chocolate covered raisins. Very surprised that it was the 1991 Phelps Insignia**+. perfect provenance and in my cellar since issue. perfect fill, perfect cork. Underwhelmed.

last flight. Baumard Quarts de Chaume.
Wine 1 was lithe and sublime. Pretty stone fruit, a touch of petrol and wild flowers. it was the 1971 QdC***++. Loved it.

Wine 2 was clearly not QdC. A bit less generous, not to say thin, more obvious notes of honey and citrus, it was the 2001 Lafaurie Peyraguey, sauternes***. Not bad, but outclassed in this field.

Wine 3 had more weight than the first wine, but a very similar profile. Perhaps a more pronounced nectarine and quince element. Again, I liked it very much. Still built for the longer haul. It was the 1990 QdC***++.

Wine 4 was my WOTN. Wow. Amazing. The 2007 QdC****+ has a vibrancy and verve that almost knocked me over. Powerful orange blossom, nectarine, mango, peach, lavender honey notes. great acids, full mouth feel with a precise line front to back, spicy finish that lasts minutes. Lots of baby fat but clearly a wine that will be among the best QdCs I have ever had. Superlative.

Wine Musings Vol#107

2011-10-11T14:51:00.008-04:00

What? A new wine musings? Could it be? Well after a much needed rest, the muser has decided once again to muse. For now. Just to mix it up a bit. I feel like Gary Vee (lol). Here are a few from the vault that merit mentioning...

****++Wine of Merit: Roses de Jeanne, Le Creaux d'Enfer, Champagne, NV (2006): Back with a bang! This is an utterly profound 100% pinot noir, saignee sparkler from Cedirc Bouchard. Very small production from a very small (.032 hectare) parcel in Champagne. Nuanced notes of minerals, pomegranate, rhubarb and tamarind. Very aromatic, with wonderful detail. The palate is chiseled and energetic, good acids, great depth . Long finish. Majestic.

***++ Chateau Leoville Poyferre, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1995: Bulls eye on this wine's drinking window, though in no hurry at all. Expressive elements of cassis, blackberry, cedar, iodine and grilled bell pepper. Wonderful concentration and depth, front to back. Finish is fine and adds sweetness. Exactly what I hope for from a claret. Wish I had bought more back in the day.

***++ Laurel Glen, Sonoma Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1986: Meal-in-a-glass nicoise olives, tar, grilled mushrooms, maturing red fruit, sage. Full on the palate, wonderful balance and depth to the fine, furry finish. Really a stand-out of the evening. I wish they (Napa/Sonoma) still made them this way. A gift.

***+ Restalte, Ribera del Duero, Crianza, 2005: Pure exubernace in a glass. Aromatically explosive stuff. Wonderful effusive notes of red/black raspberry, rosehip, tisane and yes, tagine spices. Somehow very well balanced on the palate, with some new world chocolate and vanilla. But I keep coming back to the nose. My mother-in-law used to have a huge, thickly cut diamond ring that she called "The Wower". This wine is wower material. Great QPR.

***+Merus, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: No explanations, no excuses. No one will confuse this wine with anything other than a big, brawny, Napa cab. What it lacks in sophistication it makes up for in sheer pleasure. Thick, blueberry pie, treacle and espresso notes. All singing, all dancing. Not much on focus or precision on the palate, just more big, bombastic fruit, mocha and vanilla. Not my everyday cup of tea (or should I say slice of pie) but fun while it lasts. Yum.

*** Windgap, James Berry Vineyard, Paso Robles, grenache/syrah/mouvedre blend, 2007: Awesome. Raspberry, white pepper, bacon and maple. Lively. More red berry and pepper on the palate. Full, coating but still bright...yummy. Pax has really hit a homer with this Wind Gap label. Kudos.

Wine Musings: Vol#106

2011-05-22T12:42:00.008-04:00

Wine of Merit: ****++Diamond Creek, Gravelly Meadow, Diamond Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1981: They just don't make them like this anymore and it really is a shame. Simply a magnificent wine. A definitive cabernet by any standard (well, ok, at least by mine. No one will confuse this with a Schrader). Tobacco, graphite, red currant, green peppercorn. With time grilled meats, leather. Great structure, front to back. Wonderful, deep minerals mid palate. Amazing balance and integration. Fine, endless, puckering finish. Another ten years left on this bottle. Crazy Good.

****+Gruaud Larose, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1990: Another wonderful, sophisticated, beautiful wine. A meal in a glass. Blackberry, violets, iodine, blood, nicoise olives, oolong tea, oven roasted Brussels sprouts. So much going on here...and yet perfectly integrated. This wine just unfolds, wave after wave, with time in the glass. Palate coating, long, excellent grip. In no hurry at all. Great wine.

****Kongsgaard, The Judge, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2006: Perhaps not its finest showing, though still among the best chardonnays available, regardless of provenance. The nose shows that wonderfully typical lemon oil, meringue, anjou pear, cinnamon stick. Hazelnut and a touch of butterscotch. The palate is a little less forthcoming than usual. A bit tighter too. Still, lots of white fruit and citrus. Medium length finish. I think it might be time to drink these up.

****Chateau D'Yquem, Sauternes, Bordeaux, 1989: Always a lovely way to finish a meal. A touch of initial astringency on the nose fades to reveal honeyed peach, apricot, maple and blood orange. Beautiful attack on entry with a coating mouth feel and a note of baked apple and cinnamon. Lingering, spicy finish. Yummy.

****Cedric Bouchard, Roses de Jeanne, Le Creux D'Enfer, Champagne, NV: Perhaps one the best pinot noir saignee champagnes I have ever had. Intense, lively, ebullient in every sense. Bright strawberry, blood orange, queen Anne cherries and rhubarb fruit. Grilled peaches. Superb minerals and a touch of sage. Racy acids, tangy mid palate. A very intense champagne experience. Love it.

***++ Robert Ampeau, Savigny Les Beaune, Burgundy, pinot noir, 1990: Wonderful, mature savigny. Lovely notes of game, red fruit, citrus, green tea, some barnyard. Lithe and medium weight on the palate, red fruit driven, with no drop off, front to back. Finish is medium length and resolving. A great transition wine from the white to the reds.

***+GTS Vineyards, Estate, Diamond Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: A lovely wine. GTS stands for George Thomas Seaver and yes, this is his vineyard and wine. The wine is made by Thomas Rivers Brown on Tom Seaver's behalf and it shows TRB's house style. Ripe, voluminous, blackberry jam, mulling spices, Christmas pudding notes jump from the glass. The palate is velvety, generous and coating with lots more black fruit, fig and crushed rock. The finish is long and firm, the only real element that tells me this might be from Diamond Mountain, a terroir that generally produces monster wines that are unapproachable at this stage. Just a delicious wine, though I would quibble with the heavy hand.

**Chateau Troplong Mondot, St. Emillon, 1964: Past its prime but not completely without merit. Unraveling, slightly sherried notes of tangy BBQ sauce, caramel, chocolate and plum. More lively on the thinning palate, with better plum notes and hints of mineral and herb. Finish surprisingly pronounced. Older wines like this are always about storage conditions and other variables outside the bottle as well as in, so your mileage may vary significantly. Still, a fun experiment.

Wine Musings Vol#105

2011-03-24T19:25:00.011-04:00

Wine of Merit: ****+Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac, 1979: A wonderful expression of Mouton in full voice. Rich, red fruit, graphite, cedar and cassis. With time focused mint chocolate. Gliding, velvety palate with more red and black fruit and mineral. Finish is sweet and resolving. I think this wine is at its peak. Lovely.

***++ Chateau Montrose, St. Estephe, 1986: A meal in a glass. A teenager, still brooding and a bit awkward, this wine needs cellar time. With time and air...Black fruit, loam, freshly butchered meat, licorice root. The palate is big and burly, showing a pronounced tannic ledge and primary red and black fruit. The finish is firm and long. A lovely Montrose with a long future ahead of it.

***++ Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc, Pessac Leognan, 2006: Wonderful and better than the 2005. Waxy, linseed, candied orange peel and marzipan, bright guava, red grapefruit and kiwi, apricot and honeycomb. Great intensity and zest. Fabulous acidity and mouth feel. Superb. Lovely now, better later.

***+ Etienne Sauzet, Puligny Montrachet, 1er cru, Les Referts, 2007: Wonderful white burg and an excellent QPR wine. Bright, refreshing notes of key lime and meyer lemon. A hint of lemon custard and white, fleshy pear. Redolent orange blossom. Not over the top at all - wonderfully balanced and in check. Good acids and minerals, with a touch of vanilla on the palate. Medium length, spicy finish. We drank this with a 2006 Aubert Lauren vineyard and while the later was a crowd pleaser, I preferred the Sauzet for its balance and focus.

***+ Troplong Mondot, St. Emillion, 1996: From Magnum. Perfumed nose of red and black berry fruit, plum, tobacco, freshly turned earth and rose petal. Violets. Lithe mouth feel with excellent balance, rounding out with time, yielding more red fruit and chocolate. Finish is furry and long, surprisingly firm. Yummy.

***+ Chateau Leoville Las Cases, St. Julien, 1988: Just coming into its prime, requiring extended air and more than a little patience. With time, red fruit and game aromas, black olive, a tinge of something leafy, a touch of iodine. Very old world. Gliding palate, with lovely balance, firm from front to back. Finish is pronounced but not hard. A pretty wine that has a long life ahead of it.

Wine Musings Vol#104

2011-02-27T16:44:00.005-05:00

****++Araujo, Eisele Vineyard, Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: I continue to fawn over this Eisele cabernet, from vintage to vintage. This is a magnificent iteration. Wonderfully balanced, red fruit driven wine with elements of fig, treacle, creosote, pipe tobacco. Gliding palate with excellent grip and a perfectly integrated, spicy finish. The prototype for how Napa cabernet should be.

****++Kongsgaard, The Judge, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2006: The best I have had from the 2006 vintage. Profound. Amazing depth and elegance. Heady, yet laser focused blood orange, orange blossom, white fruit, lilly of the valley. Cardamom, nutmeg. Great depth, minerals on the oily palate, more tropical fruit. Supple, with surprising delineation through to a long finish. Pretty hard to take anything away from this wine. Great.

***++Moet & Chandon, Cuvee Don Perignon, Epernay, 1996: This is drinking superbly right now. Bright green apple, candied lemon and lime zest, wet slate. Yeasty but bright and fresh. Lively acids on the palate. Baking spices and more citrus. Long, firm finish. A great apertif!

***++Maybach Eterium Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, 2007: Wow. In a super spot right now. Marzipan, candied orange zest, bosc pear, white flowers. Excellent minerality. Long. Deep. Funny that on the back, Chris suggests TRB used a "restrained" hand or something like that...nothing restrained here. Full throttle chard.

***++Ridge Montebello, Santa Cruz Mountains, 1993: Drinking great. Surprisingly youthful. Blackberry, loam, black currant, eucalyptus, sage. Beautifully integrated and balanced. Plenty of grip. Really elegant.

***+Las Flors de la Peira, Les Terrasses du Larzac, Coteaux du Languedoc, 2006:Delicious wine. Ripe grenache provides exuberant, perfumed nose of chocolate covered raspberry / blackberry, lilac, malabar pepper, candied black olive. Coating, velvety palate with very good balance and integration. Full and fresh...not thick or syrupy. Long on the finish, with a slight metallic note that mars an otherwise very pleasant wine.

***B Kosuge, 1313, Pinot Noir, Oregon, 2008: Lush, Eola Amity Hills pinot. Deep, black cherry, pine needles, cola, cocoa. Velvety, with a nice mineral under currant. Well integrated oak. Nice length. Byron has succeeded here in making a wine that borders on opulent but keeps everything in balance and proportion. Sexy wine from a dynamite vintage.

Wine Musings Vol#103

2011-01-29T08:35:00.005-05:00

A New Year means back at it for Wine Musings. The interim has seen amazing wines, great tastings and trips to Bordeaux. Thus rejuvenated, we review some recent gems:

Wine of Merit: **** Chateau Lynch Bages, Pauillac, Bordeaux, 1998: Just lovely. Initially showing strong elements of tobacco, graphite, cedar, dark fruit and freshly turned topsoil. Black fruit and minerals on the palate, with lots of grip and depth front to back. Fine, grainy finish. Evolving but in no fear of waning in any way, shape or form. A winner.

***++ Robert Ampeau, Volnay Santenots, 1er Cru, Burgundy, 1993: I love the Ampeau family and their philosophy on wine. While this vintage might suggest that this wine spent a long time in my cellar, the truth is it actually spent more time in theirs. No wine is released until deemed ready...and this was only deemed ready a few years ago. Well...it is ready! Just a wonderful wine...singing in full voice right now with no signs of faltering at all. Barnyard, spring flowers and a lovely Dijon mustard element accompany Bing cherries and clove. A trace of something coppery. Hard to express how alluring this melange really is. Full yet lithe on the palate with good acidity. Seamless, front to back with pleasing depth and definition and a long lasting finish. Love it.

***++ Joseph Phelps, Insignia, Napa Valley, 1994: I always find that older Insignias improve quite a bit over time and this is no exception. Juicy plum, leather, grilled meats and that distinctive mint. With time the mint becomes more pronounced, chocolate and soy notes are added. Air really helps this wine come into focus, adding violets and black fruit on the nose, the same and minerals on the flattering, open-for-business palate. Finish is fine and long. This wine offers full enjoyment, no excuses or explanations required. It should be fine for another 5+ years.

Wine Musings Vol#102

2010-10-22T08:55:00.004-04:00

Wine of Merit: ****Domaine Roumier, Ruchottes Chambertin, Gran Cru, Cote D’Or, 2008: Stunning. An elegant wine with poise, texture, structure and nuance. Wonderful depth and complexity for such a young wine. Berries, forest floor, potpourri…wonderfully integrated and nuanced. Length and grip on the seamless palate. Surprisingly approachable. A lovely wine.

****Domaine Ramonet, Bienvenues Batard Montrachet, Grand Cru, Cote D’Or, 2007: Once again, a stunning wine. Laser-like focus and clarity. Marzipan, linseed oil, candied citrus zest, a nuance of North African spices…wow. Mineral and citrus infused palate front to back. Endless finish. Simply a great wine.

****Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia, Toscana, IGT, 2007: A capable successor to the awesome 2006. A four square wine with big structure and still very primary elements, but clearly everything is there and in the right proportions. Perhaps not quite as ripe as 2006, but perhaps also better proportioned. For fans of this wine and this estate, 2007 looks like another must own vintage. Outstanding!

***++Renato Ratti, Marcenasco, Langhe, Barolo, 2005: I loved this wine. Approachable yet complex, perfectly balanced and a wonderful example of wines from La Morra. Strawberries and cherry liqueur, espresso, damp earth. Great balance, lovely concentration front to back, a powerful yet supple finish. A delicious and promising wine and a price that makes a lot of sense to me. Has Barolo replaced Bordeaux as the go-to red wine for the cellar?

***+Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke, Riesling Spätlese, 2004: Drinking perfectly right now. Rich and textured. Nose of white flowers, Asian pear, yellow peach, ginger, honeysuckle. Undertones of slate. Unctuous palate, lovely balance, medium, spicy finish. Just delicious.

***+Cargasacchi, Santa Rita Hills, pinot noir, 2005: Delicious! Bright, zingy strawberry rhubarb, cranberry, baking spices. Palate is nicely toned, lithe and seamless front to back, adding bright acids and some pink peppercorn notes. Generous oak, but well integrated. With extended air the oak becomes more prevalent and less enjoyable. An easy drinking SRH pinot that was great with food and a real crowd pleaser.

***Paolo Bea, San Valentino, Umbria, IGT, sagrantino, 2006: Fruit-tastic! Prominent notes of blueberry, blackberry, plum, black licorice and mint. With more air, cardamom and tar. A bit one dimensional. Palate is coating, a bit grapey and well structured, with lots of grip. Finishes with drying tannins. Lacks the sophistication and savoir faire of the more serious Bea bottlings...but delicious nonetheless.

Wine Musings Vol#101

2010-08-24T08:46:00.011-04:00

Wine of Merit: **** Chateau Rausan Segla, Margaux, Medoc, 1990: Possibly at its zenith. This is a lovely, nuanced feminine iteration of cabernet. Warm toned, red-fruited, notes of mulling spices, brown sugar, cedar and rosehip. Still very fresh on the palate. with more red fruit and a touch of cherry pipe tobacco. Great integration and still a hint of oak. Just a great wine.

****Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, St. Julien, Medoc, 1998: Classic. Deep cassis, lead pencil, blackberry notes. Hints of loam. Wonderful, balance and grip on the palate. Long, mineral finish, with fine tannins. This wine is built for plenty of years more in the cellar but is wonderful to drink right now for its statesman-like qualities.

****Chateau Pape Clement, Pessac Leognan, Graves, 1996: I am finding great favor recently with the 1996 vintage. I think it is really coming into a great window of drinkability. None more than this pape clement. A claret drinkers Bordeaux. Classic Graves elements of black currant, tobacco, autumn leaves, a spicy, Moka coffee and sage. The palate is lithe and silky. Great balance. The finish adds cloves and pink peppercorn to the furry tannins and tobacco. A charmer, for sure.

***++ Domaine de Chevalier blanc, Pessac Leognan, Graves, 1992: Speaking of charmers...I have big heart for this wine. It is my definition of white bordeaux. Slightly waxy, honey comb, orange peel, guava, freshly cut hay, chamomile...this wine just rocks. Age has added complexity and toned some of the youthful exuberance. The palate adds that wet slate minerality that I dig. Lovely integration to a finish that emphasizes a citrus pith bitterness I adore. Great!

***+ Chateau Pontet Canet, Paulliac, Medoc, 1995: Crazy. On opening this wine offers a singular element as its signature...it is like someone shaved wonderful, Droste chocolate into cafe au lait infused mascarpone and added a toasted marshmallow topping. Almost liquid tiramisu! With time in the glass the chocolate element integrates more with black licorice, cigar box, blackberry and graphite but still remains the prevalent take away. Still...yum! The palate signature is youthful, but generous and coating, almost velvety. The finish is fine and long. To me this is a delicious wine clearly made in the new world style. I think this vintage was made just as this wine was about to become popular and may be one of the first "Parker formula" wines out of Bordeaux in the 90s. Again...delicious but quite a contrast to the other Bordeaux reds served. Don't hate - celebrate!

***+Ceritas, Escarpa vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2007: Maybe my favorite sonoma coast pinot of the moment. Still requiring time and patience for the full effect, it has all the elements in place. Focused, black cherry, wild strawberry and cola notes with briar and oolong tea undertones. Excellent sap, a slightly grainy texture and structure on the palate. Long, pronounced, spicy finish that makes an impression. Kind of the anti KB pinot. Very promising.

Wine Musings Vol#100: A century of wine!

2010-07-10T12:30:00.025-04:00

Rather than comment on a smattering of recent wines, I decided to hold back and make this 100th post about the 10 or so best wines I have had over the last 3 months...all Wines of Merit. To whit:

****+Tenuta dell'Orenllaia, Bolgheri, DOC Superiore, 2001: A very special wine indeed. Fresh and vibrant while still big boned, this is a wine that marries elegance and depth with a deft hand. The fruit and structural elements are in perfect balance, with nuances of mineral, tobacco and earth. All of the hoped for elements are there. Finish is long and once again harmonious. First growth Bordeaux quality with that Italian verve and optimism that sets it apart from Mouton or Lafite. A standard. Gorgeous.

****+Schrader Cellars, RBS, Beckstoffer To-kalon vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2006: Ridiculous depth and power. Pure blue and black fruit, graphite, cedar, menthol explode from the glass. Exuberantly youthful and concentrated, this wine still posses the balance and integration required to objectify poise. Really, everything required for a perfect wine is here...it just needs a little time. Delicious now, I am sure this wine will gain even more complexity and nuance with bottle age...if you can wait that long! Magic.

****Verite', La Muse, Sonoma County, 1999: Drinking magnificently well right now, after a two hour decant. Merlot-driven, red berry and mature black cherry notes, lavender, coffee grinds, freshly turned soil create an arousing melange. With time tobacco leaf is added to the mix. A real come hither wine. Coating palate with good structure, beautiful integration and balance. Long, fine finish. Really sophisticated and nuanced, with a pure core of fruit. A pleasure.

****Penfolds, Bin 707, South Australia, cabernet sauvignon, 1988: Wonderful. A hallmark for Aussie cabernet. Focused, maturing notes of violet, cassis, raw tobacco and freshly tanned leather. Mint. Brawny yet supple. Coating, wonderful grip from front to back, with more black fruit, licorice root and minerals. A big framed wine but with poise and dexterity. Did I mention wonderful? Intoxicating.

****Giuseppe Quintarelli, Ca del Merlo, Veneto, valpolicella, 1999: Welcome to the cult of Quintarelli. These folks know that there is valploicella, there is amarone and then there is Quintarelli. This wine does not disappoint. Still showing its youth, this wine is nonetheless lithe, extremely light on its feet. Beautiful, nuanced elements of autumn leaves, cherry pipe tobacco, pan forte, tar and licorice root come together to offer the proverbial meal in a glass. Nothing about this wine seems manufactured...it is just as it was intended to be. The mouth feel is generous and coating but never to excess, lingering across the palate as it moves to the spicy, tarry, fine finish. Just wonderful. I am converted!

****Azienda Agricola Montevertine, Le Pergole Torte Riserva, IGT, Toscana, 2003: Just showing wonderfully right now. Still nuanced and not overpowering, this wine is an amazing articulation of sangiovese. A mixture of queen anne and sour cherry, accompanied by lavender and rosemary spices and pink peppercorns and finally polished saddle leather and yes, grilled meats all come together to conjure up the Tuscan sun. Perfect weight and balance. Palate features more red fruit and spice, overtones to perfectly integrated acids and a long finish. This wine with homemade pasta and a simple cacio e pepe is a dream. Really special.

****Hazyblur, The Invictus, Barossa Valley, shiraz, 2004: I am admittedly surprised to be including this note, as typically this style of wine does not do it for me. That said, this wine is absolutely delicious. Wonderfully textured and rich, this Aussie shiraz never goes over the top, even though it certainly approaches the summit. Blackberry, blueberry, boysenberry...maybe even snozberry...this wine delights. This melange of fruit is accompanied by black licorice, treacle, chocolate and fig notes...I could not help thinking of a British Christmas pudding. Palate is coating and velvety, adding a mineral element. Finish is firm, a touch sweet and loooong. A long decant allows the primary fruit to really integrate beautifully with the other elements, and adds an autumnal flavor that just adds to the complexity and fun. Quite a treat!

***++Hundred Acre, Ark Vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: I include this wine as a stark contrast to most of the others...but it still ranks as a Wine of Merit to me. Clearly made in that slightly over the top, extended maceration, more is more style, what this wine lacks in nuance and sophistication it makes up for in pure hedonistic delight. Big, effusive notes of plum cobbler, scorched earth, baker's chocolate, pan fried sage and hickory smoked meat waft up from the glass. A meal by itself. The palate is enveloping and generous, the finish like a bear rug in front of a roaring fireplace on a cold winter's night. A wine to be enjoyed for what it is, without any reason for apology. Not for everyone nor every night, but every once in awhile...Fantastic!

***++Aubert, Lauren Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2005: I love where this wine is at right now. Meyer lemon, key lime, orange blossom, slate, laundry right out of the dryer, maybe a hint of something rich like a meringue...just a gorgeous expression of the fruit. Bright acids, a long, mineral note, a slight sprtiz of effervesence and more citrus make the palate sing front to back. Finish is also lively, with more mineral and citrus pith notes. Energizing!

***++Paul Pernot, Carelles, 1er Cru, Volnay, pinot noir, 1995: A great counterpoint to much of what is going on in domestic pinot noir right now. Subtle, nuanced, intersting, this 1er cru volnay embodies what I love about mid level burgundy. Nose of cherry blosom, truffle, Asian spice, a touch of freshly turned earth and oolong tea. Palate is still fresh and lively but more importantly deftly balanced and seamless front to back. Tannins are sweet and fine. A great time to drink this wine.

***++Chateau Leoville Las Cases, St. Julien, Medoc, 1992: First and foremost I am struck by the $28.99 price tag, reminding of times when buying wine made sense. 92 was not considered a great vintage so I am sure I bought these on a bit of a flier. Well, with this risk comes reward. This wine is at its prime right now. Not even requiring a decant, this wine sings at full throat right from the bottle. A melange of plum, cigar tobacco, cedar, blood and kalamata olive waft from the glass with little coaxing. The palate is medium firm and velvet textures, just gliding front to back, offering more plum, minerals and black licorice. Tannins are fine, resolving and finish is of medium length. Finesse in a glass.

***++Cafaro Cellars, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1989: A real throw back and a lovely wine. Joe Cafaro is something of a legend out in Napa and deservedly so. He has a deft hand and really understands how to complement the natural fruit elements of the area...instead of subverting them as so many others do. This wine, from admittedly not a heralded vintage, is beautifully balanced, perfectly integrated and fresh as a daisy. No scorched earth or black cherry syrup here...this wine has great black currant, eucalyptus, sage and mineral notes. It is deep and beautifully delineated. Great structure and grip on the palate with more black fruit and mineral. Firm, long, fine finish. Equally good, picking up a tobacco note, on day two. A testament to the potential of Cali cab when made the right way. Go Joe!

***+Andrew Geoffrey Vineyards, Diamond Mountian, cabernet sauvignon, 2003: A new label for me...and a pleasant surprise! Much more forthcoming than the Diamond Mountain cabs I know well. This wine shows delicious red and black fruit, malabar pepper, tar and a pronounced if underlying, hickory-wood ember element that adds sophistication and depth. The palate is lively and perfectly balanced front to back. The finish is pronounced and suggests that this wine will continue to cellar well. Another super effort from what seems to be a long list of great Diamond Mountian winemakers. Kudos to the Andrew Geoffrey folks.

Wine Musings Vol#99

2010-05-13T11:42:00.031-04:00

For this issue of the musings we invite a special guest, John Caldarella, to take us to Bordeaux:

Chateau Pavie Macquin, St.Emilion, Bordeaux, 1999: I have found 1999 Bordeaux to be one of the most underrated vintages of Bordeaux. I have enjoyed 1999s from over a dozen Chateau ranging from Pauillac on the Left through Margaux on the Right and I have yet to be disappointed. The 99s were approachable early and have shown, at this point, to be delightful as they mature into their second decade.Tonight's example, from Saint-Emilion, has a wonderful nose of black truffle, soy, a little meat fat, and dark berry - in that order. As the wine opens the fruit becomes more expressive on the palate. While the wine is of medium body it finishes cleanly and its finely evolved tannins, quite frankly, exude character...more broken-in Benz than Jag. Lovely.

Wine of Merit: ****+Joseph Phelps, Insignia, cabernet sauvignon, Napa Valley, 1986:
Simply stated, a great wine. Surprisingly youthful. After a long decant, swirling notes of cedar, cassis, fresh plum, nicoise olive, herb de Provence and that bright, laser focused mint/eucalyptus note for which this wine has become famous. While later vintages have yielded to popular tastes, this wine remains a classic. Great structure, great balance, great finesse. Honestly, I am reminded of Mouton from the same vintage. Classic. Drink or hold.

****+ Kongsgaard, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2005: In looking through the blog, I noted that I have posted on the 2005 Judge, but not the base chardonnay. Well, it is fabulous. Unctuous, deep, perfumed and yet precise and focused. A melange of citrus, tree blossoms, honey comb, jasmine, subtle earthiness. A hint of tobacco. Flattering on the palate but detailed with a solid mineral backbone right through to the long finish. Hard not to gush about this wine. Expensive and clearly worth it.

****Dunn, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1993: Amazing. A brute that is just now even interested in flexing its muscles. Deep blue/black fruits, bramble, rocky minerals. Complimentary notes of cedar and sage. Amazing purity and depth. The palate belies its heavy weight status. The finish is the knockout. If the Insignia is Mouton, this is Latour in a big vintage. It is my understanding that the cellar master of Latour, upon trying a Dunn HM wine from around this vintage, decided that he could make a Latour from this terroir. I think his effort is called Notre Vin and is finally available for sale. I totally believe it and would be interested in how that project is turning out. Honestly, with the exception of Outpost True, I am disappointed by many of the HM efforts these days. This 1993 HM reminds me of the potential!

***++ Cedric Bouchard, Roses de Jeanne, Haut Lamblee, Blanc de blancs, champagne, 2005: Ephemeral, crisp mousse and tiny bead. Bright, crisp green apple, dried apricot, marzipan, Asian pear. Crisp, dry and mineral on the palate, with a star fruit/kiwi tang. A great food champagne. 100% chardonnay with no wood and no dosage. Delicious!

***+Sottimano, Vigne Masua, Curra, barbaresco, 2000: Delicious and clearly still a baby. Wonderful notes of potpourri, licorice root, smoke and dusty, baker's chocolate are easily coaxed from the glass. Everything about this wine is big. Voluminous, coating mouth feel. Big tannic backbone. Chocolate, fruit, pepper finish. Just a meal by itself. A wine to drink while pondering the good things in life. Super.

***+Antichi Vignetti di Cantalupo, Collis Carellae, Ghemme, 1996: A Spanna of very high quality. Much more focused and sophisticated than the Vallana offering. This wine is very reminiscent of its neighboring Barolo, with nuanced aromatics of rose hip, rhubarb,white strawberry and spice. Base notes of tar and licorice root. Palate glides with bright, integrated acids front to back, more red fruit and peppery spice. Medium,fine finish. Great food wine.

***Habit, Happy Canyon, sauvignon blanc, 2009: A new wine made from grapes grown in the Santa Ynez valley, with Dave Margerum consulting. I love the label - and the wine inside as well! A sauvignon blanc that is more ultra chill than exuberant, it offers sophisticated notes of chamomile, freshly cut grass and wild flowers, accompanied by Sicilian citron and muted tropical fruit notes. The palate is suave, layered and generous, with little of that typical young SB bite, surprising as this wine sees no oak at all. While only 50 cases were made, it is worth looking for if you can find it. Happy hunting!

***Gerard Boulay, Sancerre Rose, Chavignol, 2009: As spring turns into summer, thoughts turn to beaches, picnics, flip flops...and chavignol rose. And chief amongst them Gerard Boulay's Chavignol. Juicy, energetic, pink tropical fruits, peonies, a bit of flint...everything that is needed to enjoy the weather. Structured enough to enjoy with cool summer fare but delicious solo, this wine is for me one of the telltale signs of summer. As James Taylor says, "Summer's here...I'm for that!"

**++Windgap, Russian River Valley, pinot gris, 2008: Another winner from Pax Mahle's new label. A very different iteration of pinot gris, this wine is vinified in two batches; one is whole cluster prerssed and barreled down, the other crushed and left to age on the skins. After a year or so they are blended. The resulting wine is light orange hued, more akin to a rose then a white, though it is fermented dry. Aromas and palate are fresh and vibrant, with elements of queen Anne cherry, peach, crenshaw melon and apricot. Good acids and a nice mineral note. A great summer wine (12.3% abv), it actually was best with food. Fun!

Wine Musings Vol#98

2010-05-11T09:42:00.014-04:00

Wine of Merit: ****Woodward Canyon, Columbia Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1989: A revelation. Superb. Very reminiscent of a Pichon Comtesse de Lalande of the same vintage. Somewhat feminine and red fruit driven, elements of nicoise olive, graphite, cassis, lavender and toasted black bread, a floral tisane note. Gliding on the palate, with more red fruit and cassis. Lingering, fine, resolving finish. Just gorgeous.

***++Leonetti Cellar, Walla Walla Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Still quite vibrant and fresh. Wonderful, nuanced cabernet notes of leather, autumn leaves and cherry pipe tobacco. Plum/Panforte and tar. Full coating palate, lovely depth and grip. Fine, tingly finish with more mint and berry fruit. Perfect drinking window. Great!

***+JC Cellars, Frediani vineyard, Napa Valley, petite syrah, 1998: I am not a big petite syrah fan. That said, this was a wonderful wine! In my cellar since release, the wine has developed wonderfully integrated black fruit, caramelized fig and spicy broad leaf cigar tobacco notes. Calla Lilly with time in the glass. Super interesting but all integrated and nuanced. Balanced, full palate, lively peppery, meaty finish. A big - and very pleasant - surprise. Wonderful!

***+Bodegas Muga, Rioja Reserva, Tempernaillo, 2001: A wonderful wine at a great value. Spicy red fruit, iron, grilled meats, saddle leather, garrigue and a touch of iodine. Great complexity with clean flavors and focus. Palate is a touch racy with good attack, more red fruit and Malabar pepper and no drop offs. Fine, long spicy finish. A dynamite food wine that continues to improve and nuance.

***+Del Dotto, Napa valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1997: Prototypical. Wonderful cassis, cedar, plum and tobacco. Pronounced creamy, chocolate mint. Great depth and richness but not overripe or exaggerated at all. Flattering, generous mouth feel front to back. Long, lingering spicy finish. Yum!

***Windgap, Fannucchi vineyard, Trousseau Gris, 2009: A lovely, lighter weight summer sipper. Bright, lemon citrus zest and juicy green apple notes. Candied ginger and cardamom. Excellent snap and acid bite. Pure mineral backbone all the way to the finish. With time in the glass, a floral, almost acacia note is added. Bring on the summer heat!

Wine Musings Vol#97

2010-04-18T08:37:00.005-04:00

Wine of Merit: ***+Les Pagodes de Cos, St. Estephe, Bordeaux, 2000: A lovely surprise from Cos D'Estournel's second label. While 2000 has earned the reputation for some hard-as-nails wines, this is not one of them. Rich, sweet blackberry, licorice, cedar and tobacco. A hint of minerals. The palate is full, textured, fruitful and not hard edged anywhere. Lovely integration front to back, to a medium long finish with fine tannins. A pleasure.

***+ Conn Valley Vineyards, Right Bank, Napa, meritage, 2007: Another incredibly pleasing wine. A merlot/cab blend. Similar notes, with the addition of youthful exuberance. Ripe, juicy, black cherry and berry fruit. A touch of vanilla pipe tobacco. A hint of nicoise olive. Lots of baby fat. Balanced nicely hinting at aging potential and the development of tertiary complexity. Yummy right now!

***+Eric Texier, Cote Rotie, Vielles Vignes, syrah, 2005: I admit right upfront that I am a huge Texier fan. His wines sacrifice goofy extraction and ripeness for balance, integration and nuance. This wine is no exception. Inviting in almost a polite way, it offers beautifully delineated syrah aromatics of blueberry compote, wildflowers and carbonara (well cooked pancetta, pepper, a touch of something richer and creamier). The palate has pinot like flow and the finish is elegant and focused. Clearly a wine that will age well as I muddle through earlier vintages. Just wonderful. Bravo.

***Kosta Browne, Koplen vineyard, Russian River Valley, pinot noir, 2006: From the sublime...Actually, while there is no mistaking these pinot noirs for Burgundy, they offer lots of pleasure in their own way. Thick black cherry and vanilla ice cream notes, here with a note of raspberry and a nuance of something not quite as sweet, perhaps Mariage Freres Marco Polo tea. The palate is thankfully not quite as blousy, with a nice core of cherry fruit but also some malabar pepper, cola and fine tannin to the finish. This wine is better than the RRV and can probably stand another year in the cellar, though it is meant for drinking in the nearer term. Nice.

***Chateau Fuisse, Puilly Fuisse, Les Combettes, Burgundy, 2006: The theme continues to be rich wines. Initial notes of struck match from liberal use of sulphur. Then, with aeration, spicy preserved lemons, Asian pears, grilled fennel and lily of the valley. Bright and racy on the palate. Good acids with minerals and a slightly more candied citrus element. Fine, focused, spicy finish. Delicious.

Wine Musings Vol#96

2010-03-24T10:16:00.009-04:00

Wine of Merit: *****Chateau Pichon Longueville, Comtesse de Lalande, Paulliac, 1995: Just a wonderful wine. Nuanced nose of plum, sage, baker's chocolate, pipe tobacco. Hint of menthol. Completely integrated. Wonderful balance. Sumptuous mouthfeel, lingering finish. This wine has been described as seductive and I completely agree. A wine I was thinking about the next day. Great.

****Larkmead, LMV Salon, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2007: Another lovely wine...and in fact a good, modern day interpretation of the 95 Pichon Lalande made in the USA. More vanilla, hazelnut in the upfront, this is a wine that unravels nuance upon nuance as it opens up evolves in the glass. Sweet black and red fruits, spiced cherry pipe tobacco, black licorice, molten chocolate. Firm structure and deep concentration suggest that this will benefit from ample cellaring, though it is hard to fault the heady, youthful exuberance. Not quite the sophisticated grande damme that the Pichon Lalande represents, but clearly a family resemblance!

***+Galardi, Terra di Lavoro, Roccamonfina, aglianico, 2004: I think I might have hit this wine at a difficult time in its evolution. It presents with super interesting notes of black raspberry preserves, graphite, licorice root, smokey tar. Mid palate does seem however a bit muted. Big finish. It is very plausible that the mid palate will expand and that the disjointed nature of the wine will abet and that the wine will synch up. A great, very artisanal iteration of a wine from the "Land of Work". I will bury remaining bottles.

***+Phillips Hill, Oppenlander vineyard, Anderson Valley, pinot noir, 2006: Refreshingly honest, high quality cool climate pinot. A delicious, queen anne cherry and rose hip base, from which emanate nuances of oolong tea, cinnamon stick and earth notes. Blood orange zest. An undercurrent of soft tannins front to back, bright acids, more red fruit and spice. Very nice purity and focus. Lovely.

***Edmunds Saint John, Heart of Gold, El Dorado County, 2008: Like an early summer breeze. A vermentino, white grenchae blend, the wine is sunny, fresh and juicy. Redolent of freshly sliced, white Jersey peaches. A touch of grilled fennel, almond and white flowers. Bright acids. A great summer sipper and wonderful QPR at $20.

***Ridge, Geyserville, Sonoma County, 1993: A field blend of zinfandel, petite syrah, carignane, alicante and mataro (mouvedre). Surprisingly fresh for its age. Brambly, peppery, mature red plum. Tobacco leaf and leather. Full, coating mouthfeel and a satisfying, long spicy, peppery finish. No real hurry to drink. A testament to this wine's longevity and structure.

Wine Musings Vol#95

2010-02-27T09:06:00.007-05:00

Wine of Merit: **** Cliff Lede Vineyards, Poetry, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2006: This is a magnificent wine. Very much a vin de garde. Chiseled features, this wine has profound depth, focus, concentration and structure. Muscular. Never, however, angular or out of balance or brutish in any way. Black fruit, chalky minerals, lead pencil, a hint of something more nuanced like raw tobacco leaf. One to put away with confidence. Intense.

****Ben Glaetzer, Amon-Ra, Shiraz, Barossa Valley, 2005: Equally worthy is the Amon Ra from Ben Glaetzer. A majestic wine. Deep, concentrated, deftly balanced. Blue and black fruit, an undertone of grilled meat that becomes more pronounced with air, bramble, a huge whiff of exotic, tagine spices...this wine has it all. Powerful but never lacking grace. Long, firm, graceful finish. A wonder.

***++Donnhoff, Niederhauser Hermannshohle, Nahe, Riesling Auslese, 2002: I have tracked this wine over time and it has never been better than right now. Orange blossom and oleander, petrol, dried apricot, minerals. Rich and textured, oily but not heavy in anyway. Lovely balance. Minerals and spice on the lingering finish. Delicious.

***+ Jean Claude Boisset, 1er Cru “Les Chaponnières”, Pommard, 2005: A suave Pommard made in a very natural style. Deep red fruit, pronounced chocolate covered apricot slices (I love those), mulling spice a great mineral backbone. Silky smooth palate feel with a firm structure front to back. 13% abv and the structure bode well for longer term cellaring, but hard to resist right now. I should have bought more!

***+W.S. Keyes, Howell Mountain, merlot, 2006: This was a wine that evolved significantly in the glass. Initially all about milk chocolate and caramel, it took on weight and nuance with air. Deep plum, crushed violet, grilled meat. A forest floor element. Velvety, generous mouthfeel. Long finish. From what was the Liparita vineyards. Lovely.

***+Eric Texier, Brezeme, Domaine Pergault, Villes Vignes, Cotes de Rhone, 2005: A 5 year old CdR just hitting its stride. Welcome to the world of Eric Texier. 100% Syrah, this wine is signing right now. Gorgeous, perfumed red currant, black berry fruited tisane, brier, violet, a real melange. The palate slides and glides, adding minerals and nice structure through to the fine finish. Someone suggested this is a baby Hermitage and I would agree.

***Le Clos Jordanne, Niagara, Ontario, chardonnay, 2006: Beauty, eh? (Sorry couldn't resist). Actually, this wine is a beauty. Clean, bright lemon/grapefruit notes, white pear, flinty mineral, an added element of grilled fennel on the palate, excellent acids and verve, a long, spicy finish. By pure serendipity this wine is owned and made by the Boisset family above mentioned. An excellent effort. A classy chardonnay from the great white north.

Wine Musings Vol#94

2010-02-21T17:48:00.009-05:00

Had the pleasure of spending the day visiting Sojourn Cellars, Audelssa Vineyards and Pott Wines while on a one day scamper up to the sonoma/napa valleys.

Our first stop was Sojourn Cellars and a visit with Craig Haserot. It is clear that Craig is passionate about wine and wine making and his product reflects his choice to make his avocation into his vocation. I found the current pinots and cabernets delicious. They offer a nice balance between some of the leaner, "more natural", lower abv wines being produced out there and the more full throttle, cherry vanilla milkshake, high abv, high extract versions. It seems like a very conscious effort to find the middle ground. I guess if I had to use one word to describe Sojourn Cellars I would use the word polished. Enticing to soaring aromatics, welcoming mouth feel gliding to a long, fine finish these are delicious wines that will appeal to wine geeks and casual wine drinkers alike.

Craig kindly poured his whole line up:

***Sojourn Cellars, Sonoma County, pinot noir, 2008: Ripe, though not overly so, with lovely sonoma nuances of cherry cola and mulling spices. Palate coating and generous with a long, spicy finish. Gorgeous.

***+Sojourn Cellars, Rogers Creek vineyard, pinot noir, 2008: Perhaps the most interesting of the pinots. Nuanced, green elements, earthy truffle and a slightly more pronounced tannic profile. May benefit from some laying down. Delicious.

***Sojourn Cellars, Gaps Crown vineyard, pinot noir, 2008: Racy and fun. Red fruits, currants, malabar pepper. Maybe sorting itself out still a touch, but very promising and undoubtedly a good food wine.

***++Sojourn Cellars, Sangiacomo vineyard, pinot noir, 2008: The pride of the litter. Full, creamy but still deep and showing good concentration, this wine seems the most complete to me. Very worthy.

***+Sojourn Cellars, Mountain Terraces, cabernet sauvignon, 2006: Mountain Fruit from Sonoma. The best sonoma cabs are from the mountains and this one show many of those most desired qualities. Nicoise olive, earth, red fruit, bramble. Full and coating. Long, fine finish. Great.

***Sojourn Cellars, Sonoma Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2006: A great buy at $39. Delicious, forward, oak, chocolate, a touch of bell pepper, plum, pipe tobacco. Full and coating. Yum!

Toward the end of the tasting Craig was kind enough to bring out two yet to be released samples: The first was the 2007 Sojourn Cellars Spring Mountain cabernet (***+). I found it surprisingly supple and integrated (but still showing that deep mountain fruit concentration) for a wine from a growing area that I most often associate with big, tannic, monster cabs. Another taster suggested to Craig that he had "tamed the monster" on this one and I have to agree. An excellent effort. The other wine was the 2008 Sojourn Cellars George III cabernet (***++). A cut above. Deeper, more interesting and nuanced, it is showing its pedigree even in these early, primary stages. A wine to watch out for. I was very impressed with these and all of the Sojourn Cellars wines.

Lunch at the EDK (truffled fries!) and then...

Off to Audelssa Vineyards , which was a new winery for me. The views from the top of Mt. Veeder are breathtaking and the folks there could not be nicer or more passionate about their estate grown wines. Of special note were the 2006 Summit cabernet blend*** and the 2006/2007 reserves***+. I believe the Sojourn Cellars Mountain Terraces is from this very same vineyard (of course they share winemakers so it would make sense). Mountain grown, black cherry and mocha driven wines with nice complementary notes of earth and smoke. Firm and full on the palate with a pronounced and very enjoyable mineral presence and very firm, tannic finish. My impression is that the reserves are made with 100% estate merlot/cab franc fruit while the Summit blend is an estate/alder springs Bordeaux blend. In many ways this estate reminds me of Jocelyn Lonen - the views, the nice people the fruited wines...lovely! Audelssa sells two crowd pleaser wines, the Zephyr GSM*** (does this also get a bit of co-fermented estate viognier? The aromatics are certainly pumped up)and theTephra**++ (a kitchen sink mix including zinfandel, syrah, cab, merlot and maybe others). Both of these less expensive wines were approachable, yummy and eminently drinkable. A strong line up. Thank you for the visit. A picture from the vineyard with the clouds parting is my new computer wallpaper. Breathtaking.

Wines of Merit: Lastly we made the hike to visit with Aaron Pott. Aaron was kind enough to share 4 of his cuvees with us, as well as a bottle of the 2007 Seven Stones, which I had tried from barrel in October. It is hard to know where to start with Aaron's wines. I find them magical. If the word of the day for Sojourn is polished, the word for Pott Wines is complete. To my palate they lack nothing. Each wine is individual, interesting, deep, complex and fulfilling in its own way. I will briefly mention that his 2007 Pantagruel**** cab franc had wonderful, Chinon like complexities that I have personally never found in a new world cab franc, though I have had quite a few (Favia, Detert, Viader, Verite, etc...). I thought it exquisite, as I found all of his wines. Amazing also were the White Cottage cab St. Ralph the Liar****, deep, concentrated HM cab bursting with fruit (I happen to love Dennis John's version as well), Kalihomanok**** from Spring Mtn (where the monster was not tamed but befriended) and the beguiling, black-as-night, Oakville grown Neruda****. Quite the tour de force.

The 2007 Seven Stones (****++) was, as it was out of barrel, otherworldly. Among the best Napa cabs I have had from any vintage - it reminded me very much of the 1994 Harlan cabs that I drank way too young. I realize that some recent comments made by the owner have made this wine controversial, but I will continue to buy all they will sell me at the asking price and consider myself lucky. A great effort.Once again, thanks to all for the visit and the hospitality. A real treat.

Wine Musings Vol#93

2010-02-02T09:17:00.006-05:00

Wine of Merit: ****Araujo, Eisele vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: I am often puzzled by why Araujo does not garner as much praise as many of the other “cult” cabernets from Napa. Maybe it’s the clear choice of elegance and refinement over raw extraction? In any case, it is clearly deserving of high praise. This 2004 is testament. Alluring, sophisticated notes of plum pudding, cured tobacco, cedar and dried fig. Excellent concentration and perfect balance from nose through to back of palate. On the palate minerals, chocolate and mint are added to the plum notes and glide front to back. Fine, resolving finish. Delicious. A great wine experience.

***++Ceritas, Porter Bass vineyard, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2007: This is the third vintage made under this label by the owners of the Porter Bass vineyard. A wonderful wine. Medium weight and at first shy, this wine opened up with a bit of aeration to reveal lemon zest and kafir lime notes, accompanied by orange blossom, grapefruit, wet slate and a mélange of exotic spices. Sturdy structure with excellent acidity and length. While taught, this wine offers a lot of pleasure right now, as well as the promise of more developed notes with time in the cellar. Great effort. Only 88 cases made.

***++Rivers Marie, Thieriot vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2007: An inaugural effort, this chardonnay was far and away the table’s favorite of the night. Right in between the Ceritas and the Aubert efforts, the RM chardonnay hits many of the former wine’s bright fruit notes with a slightly broader, richer palate that includes marzipan and a touch of hazelnut. Palate is generous but focused with a lingering mineral and citrus pith finish. A lovely wine and an amazing value at $45.

***++Aubert, Lauren vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2004: If it is possible, this wine has become even more unctuous over time. Thick, oily, lemony, cardamom laced buttered popcorn, crème brulee and almond. Full, coating mouth feel, candied citrus and minerals. Delicious for it’s over the top, hedonistic nature. Drink soon.

***++Lokoya, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 2003: Served from magnum. I would characterize this wine as very similar in profile to the O’Shaughnessy cabernet listed below, but with more depth and focus. I am not sure if this is attributable to the vintage differences, format differences or otherwise. But this Lokoya adds chalk, a stronger mineral profile and licorice root to the fruited elements. The blue/black fruit is also more focused and youthful. A powerful wine for sure, but with excellent overall symmetry. Another reason to be a Howell Mountain cabernet fan.

***+O’Shaughnessy Vineyards, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 2002: This cab splits the difference between the Merus (below mentioned) and the Araujo. Clearly mountain grown, this wine offers beautifully balanced brambly, deep, dark blue/black fruited cabernet aromas, adding tar, lead pencil and smoke. Not vague in any way, but much more extracted than the Araujo, it also adds a touch of green sweetness I associate with spearmint. Firm-ish palate, excellent oak integration, long finish. A very worthy effort made by folks who clearly take pride in the Howell Mountain terroir.

***+Merus, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: Where the Araujo focuses on balance and integration, Merus substitutes depth and concentration. Almost aussie like in its primary fruit focus. Black and blue berry fruit preserves, cocoa powder, licorice root. A deep, thick iteration of cabernet. A bit ponderous, but still fun and very much delicious in a “…and for desert I’ll take the 5 lb. banana split sundae challenge! (gasps heard around the table)” kind of way. If you believe more is more, then Merus is for you. Even the bottle is oversized for a typical 750ml. Big!

***+ Chateau Langoa Barton, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 2000: A sister wine of the famed Ch. Leoville Barton. This wine has verve. Refreshingly NOT from Napa, one is immediately confronted with exuberant black fruit laced with animal, nicoise olive and bay leaf notes. The palate continues the assault, including a saline element, baker’s chocolate and racy red and black currants. Full, powerful, long tannic finish. Great with food. A yummy wine from a dynamite vintage. Drink or hold.

Wine Musings Vol#92

2010-01-04T12:42:00.009-05:00

****+Wine of Merit: Marcassin, Zio Tony ranch, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2004: Wow! One must stop for a moment and appreciate. I have had other vintages of this wine and not been nearly as impressed. And yet this bottle of 2004 requires a complete rethinking and re-examination. At the same time complex and subtle, this chardonnay speaks to a sophistication and lightness of hand that I do not associate with Helen Turley, or new world chardonnay for that matter. Wonderful, lithe, balanced, frisky, and a sea-salty, lemon-zesty crushed sea shell verve (to balance out the more typical creme brulee notes) that I just loved. Perfectly balanced and structured. Long, mineral, lime-y finish. Just a superb chardonnay. Go figure.

***+Chateau Margui, Coteaux varois, rouge, 2006: A wonderful, spirited wine. A 60/40 syrah/cab mix from provence, this wine reminds me of the Galileo saying, "wine is sunshine held together by water". I can taste provence in there, its sun backed stones, garrigue, red and black currants and berries, the spice market in Aix en provence...delicious. And cheap ($17 a pop, $38 in mag!). Have it with a simple roasted chicken with new potatoes and count the blessings. Great.

***+Medlock Ames, Estate, Sonoma Mountain, merlot, 2003: Medlock Ames knows merlot. This iteration is firm and deep, with excellent plum and black currant, violet, mint, baker's choclate and pepper. Voluminous, with solid structure and good oak presence...never overwhelming. A wine to drink with air, or hold.

***+Jocelyn Lonen Winery, Lonen Reserve, cabernet sauvignon, 2003: Just wonderful. A wine made by the late Joshua Krupp, with fruit sourced from the Krupp's Stagecoach vineyard. Lovely concentration, rich and full...real Stagecoach terroir. Lush, velvety black cherry, mocha, cigar box with touches of fennel seed, earth and ripe plum that makes me think cab franc. Long, fine finish. Yum!

***+Woodward Canyon, Charbonneau vineyards, Walla walla, cabernet sauvignon, 1989: Yummy cab from another era. 12.3% abv, good acid structure, suave, gliding wahington state cab. Aromas of black cherry, dark chocolate, melted licorice, tar and a touch of bbq sauce. Integrated and harmonious front to back. Just a lovely wine to have with some slow cooked short ribs. Ah...the pleasures of food and wine.

Wine Musings Vol#91

2009-12-18T09:40:00.005-05:00

Wine of Merit: ***++Lopez de Heredia Vina Bosconia, Gran Reserva, Rioja, 1981: I love this wine. Wonderful nuance and verve. Mature color, great notes of rose hip, potpourri, rhubarb and minerals. Palate glides but never thins. Cherry, white strawberry and more minerals in the mid palate. Medium, long finish. Great!

***+Ch. Ducru Beaucaillou, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1999: A lovely, terroir-driven, stately wine. Elements of juniper, spicy red and black berry fruit, licorice root, smoke. Wonderfully elegant on the palate. Completely integrated and suave with no fading. Lingering, fine finish. I think 1999 is generally an under appreciated vintage for Bordeaux.

***+Von Strasser, Estate, Diamond Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Similar to Diamond Creek, I find Rudy Von Strasser's wines to be blessed with a great sense of place. Nuances of freshly turned earth, rose hip and rose petal, toffee, raw tobacco leaf...gorgeous. Still coating, rich and long, this wine is really hitting its stride. Terrific.

***(+)Phillips Hill, Toulouse vineyard, Anderson Valley, pinot noir, 2007: A new wine for me. A cool climate signature, with deep red and black fruit, pipe tobacco, a touch of bey leaf and earthiness. Lovely integration and volume on the palate, with air. Firm tannic backbone suggests cellaring, as does the long, firm finish. A well crafted wine that will benefit from time.

Wine Musings Vol#90

2009-11-30T14:38:00.009-05:00

Wine of Merit: ***++Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape, 1995: Elegant. This wine has aged into a lovely, balanced, almost Burgundian chateauneuf. Warm, rich cherry compote, kirsch, red peppercorn, toasted caramel. Touch of earth and lavender. The palate glides, with more pepper and red fruit. Finish is long and spicy. With time the acids become more pronounced as the fruit fades. Drink now.

***+ Castello di Camigliano, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: I have posted on this before. A wonderful, full, rich brunello. Deep, chocolate covered black cherry, caramel, cigar tobacco and smoke. Generous, layered, coating palate. Velvety. Furry, long, lithe finish. Great.

***Viader, Estate, Diamond Mountain, cabernet sauv/franc, 1994: Another lovely, aged, nuanced wine. Elements of plum and black currant, roasted meats, sage, espresso and violet. Good concentration and integration, front to back. Finish is resolving but still fine.

***Laurel Glen, Terra Rosa, Sonoma mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1990: This wine was made before Patrick moved the Terra Rosa label to Argentina. Lovely, mature sonoma cab. Turned earth, roasted plum and chocolate, anise, cigar box. The palate is thinning a bit but still generous through to a resolving, fine cab finish. Great balance. A nice find while digging through the cellar.

***Windgap, Russian River Valley, pinot gris, 2007: Springtime in a glass. From the lovely vermilion color to the whiff of fresh blossoms, this wine conjures up picnics on the great lawn with not a cloud in the sky. Persimmon, beach nut, orange blossom. Touch of spearmint. A hint of line dried fresh laundry. The palate is rich with minerals and slightly citrusy. The finish is clean and fresh if a bit abrupt. Great food wine.

***Marchese Frescobaldi, Nipozzano Riserva, Chianti Rufina, 2005: Delicious. Fresh, unpretentious chianti, happy to be quaffed from a tumbler in the company of a nice pizza. Bright cherry fruit, blood orange, grilled fig, zesty pepper, chocolate. Medium, friendly spicy finish. Mmmm....tasty.

Wine Musings Vol#89

2009-11-11T08:05:00.004-05:00

***+Wine of Merit: Shane Wines, Jemrose vineyard, Bennett Valley, syrah, 2007: Notably opaque and inky. Complex aromas of iron, wet stone, grilled meats and spiced red fruit. With time cafe au lait and a floral, violet note. Rich and layered, picking up more chocolate and spice on the palate. Lovely integration and balance. Lingering, mineral finish. A new producer for me and one to watch with enthusiasm.

***+Domaine de l' Aigueliere, Cote Doree, Montpeyroux, Coteaux du Languedoc, syrah, 1995: I have enjoyed the evolution of this wine since its issuance. Initially very pronounced and almost challenging to drink, the Cote Doree has mellowed in its old age, now offering a lovely melange of lavender, fresh oregano, red fruit, licorice root, cured meats and smoke. Just delicious. The palate is playfully racy and sweet, the finish fine, balanced and of medium length. Patience has its virtues after all.

***Arcadian, Fiddlestix vineyard, Santa Rita Hills, pinot noir, 2004: Garnet hued, with nuanced aromas of licorice, cinnamon, tisane and sour cherry. The palate is firm, with pronounced minerals, black pepper, more racy red fruit and a long, mineral, tannic finish. Complex and perhaps still holding much in reserve. Worth it.

**++Antonio Vallana e Figlio, Boca, Piemonte, nebbiolo, 1996: A wonderfully interesting, aged nebbiolo. Prominent notes of oxidized iron, turned earth, nicoise olive, plum, dried cherry and cranberry. Nuances of baker's chocolate and tar. Acids are still bright and the palate is lively. Great integration and a fine, resolving finish. Refreshing after so many "international" wines.

**++Shane Wines, The Unknown, Sonoma County, syrah, 2007: A much cooler profile than the Jemrose. More blue and black fruits, coated in chocolate, mint and violets. More pronounced on the palate, picking up malabar pepper and rich, dark roasted coffee. Delicious.

Wine Musings Vol#88

2009-10-20T09:06:00.008-04:00

Wine of Merit: ***+Les Bahans du Chateau Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux, 1996: The second wine of the famed 1st growth estate. Wonderful. Classic Graves and very reminiscent of the 1st growth. Lovely autumnal and sous bois elements, minerals, dark red fruit, broad leaf tobacco and cigar box. Good structure, balance and integration but clearly ready to drink, though no drop off. A can't miss wine made for Claret lovers. I believe that 1996 Bordeaux is finally coming around. A great time to check in on them if you are cellaring that vintage.

***+Domaine Serene, Evenstad Reserve, Willamette Valley, pinot noir, 2004: Powerful, concentrated and structured pinot noir. Lovely notes of blackberry fruit, pine, nice florals, pipe tobacco and milk chocolate. With time in the glass the wine exhibits more richness on the palate and excellent length. A wine for now or maybe even better in a few years. Promising.

**+Clos Pegase, Pegase Circle Reserve Port, petite syrah, 1995: A curiosity more than anything. Very sweet, black, juicy petite fruit. A touch of spearmint and blueberry. A little grainy. Gliding palate front to back with a black fruit finish. Not a wine I would recommend nor would I avoid it entirely. Nice with a chocolate desert.

Wine Musings Vol#87

2009-09-25T10:08:00.002-04:00

Wine of Merit: ****Kistler, Vine Hill, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2006: Just a lovely iteration of chardonnay. Evocative, vibrant notes of lemon oil, beeswax and clover honey waft up from the glass. The palate is full and oily with good structure, a hint of mineral and spice and a long, finish. A note of pepper and nutmeg at the end. Really great.

***+Detert Family Vineyards, Oakville, Napa Valley, cabernet franc, 2004: This wine packs a wallop. Very primary still. Thick, intense, concentrated palate with a black licorice, baker's chocolate, minerals and braised fennel. With time hints of lavender and violets. Firm finish with black pepper and maybe a chocolate covered licorice thing. Delicious, but I think I will hide this in the cellar for awhile. Quite a while!

Wine Musings Vol#86

2009-08-15T19:20:00.002-04:00

Had the pleasure to spend some time with Roy Piper and Aaron Pott at Seven Stones last weekend. At the time we tasted the 05 and 06 from bottle, the 07 from barrel. The notes are in the order we tried them. All of these wines are of merit:

***+Seven Stones, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2006: Decanted for an hour or so. A lovely wine by all measures. Perfumed, ripe nose of plum and black cherry, licorice root, hint of sage. Some earth and espresso grinds. The palate is coating and velvety, nice mineral focus, not blousy at all, fine tannic ledge front to back.

***++Seven Stones, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: Popped and poured. Very similar notes to the 2006. Even better structure and depth. Slightly more focused, slightly better delineation. Pretty consistent. 93 pts.

****+Seven Stones, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2007: From barrel. Wow. Home run. Not that the others are not worthy...but this wine is clearly very special. Much darker, concentrated blue/black berry fruit, deep, chiseled lead pencil, hint of chocolate mint. Rockin. Even more focus, depth, texture and minerals on the palate. Deft integration and balance. Extended minerals and a fine, super long finish. Slightly floral. Somehow, even at $150+, this wine seems like a steal when compared with others of its ilk (Araujo, Harlan, Abreu come to mind). Superlative. Run, don't walk!

Wine Musings Vol#85

2009-07-25T09:35:00.012-04:00

Wine of Merit: ***++Laurel Glen, Counterpoint, Sonoma Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1991: A wonderful surprise. I have always admired this sonoma mountain producer but I was floored by the complexity, nuance and grip of this second label edition. I couldn't help but think of Figeac with its mature red/plum fruit, Indian tagine spices, loam and sois bois - but also Graves, given the pronounced graphite, smoke, autumn leaf and mineral elements as the wine expanded over time. Wonderful delineation and depth on the palate with more plum and mineral. Tannins are fine and the finish still long. Great wine punching well above its weight.

***+Schweiger Vineyards, Estate, Diamond Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1994: Lovely. Great, integrated mountain fruit elements. Blackberry, baker's chocolate, nicoise olives, brair. Palate is generous and coating but never fat, with a pronounced mineral note. Finish is lively but nicely built in to the overall palate impression. Just perfect to drink right now, though it will likely hold on for awhile.

***Beaulieu Vineyards, Georges de Latour, Private Reserve, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1992: An excellent example. Not nearly as ripe as previous bottles, this wine showed elegance, stature and strength. Deep red and black fruit, cassis, licorice, chalk and menthol. Firm, integrated palate with good length and a velvety depth.

*** Richard Partridge, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1998: I believe this was the first vintage for this winery. An auspicious start. Open knit, full aromas of chocolate covered black cherry, cassis, cedar, clove. Round mouth feel with integrated vanilla/hazelnut, plum and spice. Good balance and length. Lovely to drink now.

***Del Dotto, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Nice wine. Tangy, plump red fruit driven style. Slightly over ripe. Cafe au lait, grilled meats, a touch of gaurrigue. Oak is integrated, palate silky, finish medium length. An overall good bottle of mature Napa cabernet that should be consumed over the short term.

**++Robert Sinskey, SLD Estate, Stags Leap District, cabernet sauvignon, 2002: Very nice, if a tad underwhelming. Typical, spicy red SLV fruit. Complementary notes of grilled fennel and incense. Good fullness and weight, more fruit and with some minerals on the palate. Perhaps a bit vague. Yummy, if under performing.

Wine Musings Vol#84

2009-06-04T09:14:00.004-04:00

Wine of Merit: ****++Chateau D’Yquem, Sauternes, Bordeaux, 1996: Ethereal. I have had this wine before and it has never performed so well. A great example of a superlative d’yquem. Honey comb, tobacco, minerals, a floral mélange of vetiver, verbena, lavender and Lilly of the Valley scent, candied citrus zest, a touch of white pepper lithe and yet serious. Wonderful depth on the palate with more orange zest and minerals. Endless finish. Just outstanding.

****+Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, Hermitage, 1996: A masterpiece. Powerful red fruit, cinnamon, white pepper, tar and briar. Amazing depth, cut and delineation. Firm palate but perfectly balanced and integrated front to back. Ridiculously long finish of pepper, soy and mineral. Great the next day and the day after that as well.

****Bodegas Vega Sicilia, Unico, Ribera del Duero, 1996: A giant. Still very primal. Surprisingly new world in its signature. Essence of blueberry, tagine spices, briar, floral acacia, vanilla bean, café au lait. Beautiful, coating, juicy palate. Good focus and length. Very fresh. Charmingly puerile, still growing into its frame.

***++Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume, Loire, 1996: Hedonism exemplified. Baked apricots covered in honey, clove, cinnamon, candied ginger, lemon custard. Deep, deep unctuous aromas. A real come hither wine. I loved it. Thick, viscous palate, medium long ripe crème anglais finish. A romp. Wonderful.

***Domaine Huet, Clos du Bourg, Moelleux, Vouvray, 1996: Somewhere in between. Not the elegance of the D’Yquem or the sensuality of the Baumard. Fresh, ripe cantaloupe aromas, a touch of watermelon, quince. Delicious and light on the palate. Lovely and refreshing.

*+Querciabella, Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany, 1996: Seriously maderized. Fun to taste for its volatile, creamy blackberry and cherry sherry-like qualities. But not worth drinking more than a glass. Smoke ‘em if you got ‘em.

Wine Musings Vol#83

2009-05-21T08:59:00.005-04:00

Wine of Merit: ****+Ridge, Montebello vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains, cabernet sauvignon, 1996: A definitive Montebello. I have had this wine a number of times but never better than right now. Wonderfully layered, nuanced, complex…a meal in a glass. Elements of broad leaf tobacco, grilled meats, blood, iron, camphor, mature plum and red fruits, truffle. Wild, montrose-like qualities. Full, concentrated palate adds more plum and Indian spices. Full on finish…but everything is packaged perfectly. As good a Montebello as the 1991 and a wonderful treat to drink or hold.

****+Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste, Estate, Paulliac, 1996: Wow. Just a dynamite wine. Powerful, vibrant. Yes, traditional Paulliac elements of black and blue fruits, graphite, menthol, minerals. Cassis. Cedar. Pipe Tobacco. But this one has a perfect suppleness to it, a finely toned musculature that just ripples. Huge palate adds licorice root, more minerals and church incense. Perfect integration with a bottomless finish. After a few sips I no longer felt like I was tasting this wine…it was more like watching a great athlete on the field of play. Big Ups.

****Dunn, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1996: Fabulous purity and focus. Deep, blue black berry fruit, cassis, dusty, crushed chalk. Just starting to stretch its legs now. Wonderful grip, depth and concentration. Super long but surprisingly supple finish, really great balance. The best Howell mountain I have had since the amazing 1982.

***+Araujo, Eisele vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1996: Classically structured, a statesman of a wine. Perhaps overshadowed today by the Montebello, it still has all of those Eisele qualities that make this wine a poster child for what napa cabernet wishes it always could be. Classic Rutherford dust, cassis and black fruit, menthol, cedar. Good tannic profile from front to back, now starting to resolve. Good grip, depth and balance. Special.

***+Chateau Montelena, Estate, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1996: Again, a classic. Showing telltale Montelena notes of slightly overripe plum, chocolate and soy. Still very youthful and promising. In good to great vintages this is accompanied by minerals, white pepper and a fullness that allows these elements to intermarry and create a wonderful mélange. Good delineation and structure but mostly a juicy, coating mouthful of wine. Delicious.

***+Chateau Montrose, Estate, St. Estephe, 1996: I was surprised by how civil and well behaved this wine is right now. Still, the blood lines are apparent. Great, mature red fruit, truffle, violets, molasses and exotic far eastern spices. A touch of iodine, butter sautéed Brussels sprouts and Malabar pepper. Not nearly as full throttle as the 90 or 89 I think this wine is a bit more contemplative but not coy. The palate is classically structured and the tannins on the long finish are fine, layered and integrated. A wonderful example of a young Bordeaux just beginning to strut its stuff.

***Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron, Estate, Paulliac, 1996: Very good and again a classic iteration of Paulliac. Blue black berry fruit, lead pencil. Wet slate. Deep, coating palate showcases plums and minerals, with some espresso bean notes. Fine, balanced, slightly drying finish. Very worthy.

***Chateau Ducru Beacaillou, Estate, St. Julien, 1996: A lovely wine. Perhaps a bit more feminine than other vintages of Ducru. Red and black berry fruit, acacia, violets, cedar, cinnamon stick. Spicy, red fruit palate that is perfectly integrated and lovingly balanced. Maybe a bit lost next to the Grand Puy Lacoste. A little tight perhaps? Still, picture perfect St. Julien.

Wine Musings Vol#82

2009-05-17T09:09:00.010-04:00

Wine of Merit: ****+Pol Roger, Sir Winston Churchill, Champagne, 1996: Stunning. Crisp acidity, chiseled features, a champagne meant to lay down. Right now it shows bright green apple and citrus notes, great minerals, a hint of almond paste...just wonderful. The palate is refreshing and lithe. The finish offers spice, good length and more minerals. Youthfully exuberant.

****Joseph Swan Vineyards, Estate, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, pinot noir, 1996: Just lovely and surprisingly Burgundian. I always think of Swan wines as rustic and sometimes a bit difficult, but this wine has aged into a classic. Nuanced elements of cherries, black and bing, freshly turned top soil, tisane, clove. Licorice root. Not heavy or brooding at all...in fact very bright and finely balanced. The palate is impeccable, great concentration and grip, adding minerals and depth, lovely balance. Medium long, spicy finish. Kudos to Rod Berglund, who stays the course over at Swan. Really top notch.

***++R&V Dauvissat, Les Preuses, Grand Cru, Chablis, chardonnay, 1996: A great example of grand cru chablis from a great vintage. Intense, laser-focused blood orange and lemon zest. Anjou pear. Wet slate. A touch of fennel and white flowers. Bracing acids, flint and bees wax on the gliding palate. Not oxidized at all. Great the next day in fact. Wonderful.

***+Dominique Laurent, Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, pinot noir, 1996: Lovely and nicely balanced front to back. Excellent fruit, integration and depth. Darker cherry elements, supporting spice and rose hip, underbrush, minerals, cinnamon. The palate shows good grip and length, with fine but pronounced tannins that offer confidence for longer cellaring. Surprisingly old school in style from the more new world oriented Laurent. Delicious.

***+Sylvian Cathaird, Les Malconsorts, 1er Cru, Vosne Romanee, pinot noir, 1996: Delicious. I wish I had spent more time with this wine. Perhaps slightly awkward on opening, with time the wine reveals nuance and complexity; bing cherry, ginger, underbrush, licorice root and smoke all seem to intertwine and emerge as a pot pourri-like melange. The palate is firm and perhaps a bit angular, though again with time it softens, sweetens and fills, adding great tagine spices. A wine for grown-ups. I liked it very much.

***Bernard Defaix, Cote de Lechet, 1er Cru, Chablis, chardonnay, 1996: Similar to the Dauvissat, just a bit less so. Perhaps a bit more rustic. Delicious, citrus fruit and zest, now with an element of citrus pith. Liquid minerals, crushed oyster shell. Not quite as sharply focused on the palate as the Grand Cru. Still very lively and very much in form. An excellent effort.

***Jean Marc Boillot, Les Perrieres, 1er Cru, Puligny Montrachet, chardonnay, 1996: Happily this wine also was in good form. Initially demure, this wine opened to warm crushed gravel, white fruits and a touch of lavender. Perhaps a bit more feminine than its chablis counterparts, with a touch less length. Still, delicious.

***Williams Selyem, Hirsch vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 1996: After the Caithard and the Swan, this is like having a black cherry milkshake. A bowl full of cherries, cola, cream, vanilla, a hint of spearmint and caramelized brown sugar...what this wine lacks in sophistication it makes up for in simple enjoyment. Very fresh and full. I was surprised that it did not have the weight, the smoke or the dark fruit elements I associate with Sonoma Coast pinot. Not very nuanced, deep or for that matter interesting, it is undoubtedly delicious. Fun and tasty.

Wine Musings Vol#81

2009-05-02T11:19:00.005-04:00

Wine of Merit: ***+Altesino, Brunello di Montalcino, 2001: Quintessential BdM. Delicious, stately and elegant yet warm and inviting. Dark, black cherry notes, caramelized brown sugar, fresh earth. Full but gliding palate. Furry, resolving finish. Wonderful integration and nuanced layers. Super wine.

***+Cantina del Pino, Ovello, Barbaresco, 2004: Mammoth. Chewy expansive notes of black cherry liqueur, bakers chocolate, clove, brier. A nice high tone of rose petal. The palate is coating front to back, significant presence of new oak ads a hazelnut quality, the length on the finish measured in minutes. Clearly made for the long haul.

***+Vietti, Masseria, Barbaresco, 2001: A favorite. Perhaps more developed than I would have assumed, this wine is nonetheless delicious and ready for prime time. Mature, warm mineral notes of black licorice, truffle, tar and ripe plum. The palate is ripe and coating but not dense and chewy. Lovely integration, with a fine finish.

***Calera, Jensen Vineyard, Central Coast, pinot noir, 1985: An oldy but a goody. Surprisingly fresh. Lovely, mature varietal notes waft up with little coaxing. The wine is full and willing, far from fragile. Nice palate feel, red fruit, tisane, rose hip, Asian spice. Fine, medium finish that suggests no hurry. Delightful.

***Elena Fucci, Titolo, Basilicata, Aglianico del Vulture, 2005: A rustic southern Italian charmer. Lovely, big boned aglianico notes of bright, effusive raspberry and cherry, crushed slate, Malabar pepper, licorice root. Eucalyptus. Expansive palate, enormous finish. The Sofia Loren of wines. Give this time and food.

**++Arns, Estate, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1993: A nice example of the varietal, the vintage and the style of the time. Pensive, red fruit driven style, black pepper, green tea lots of minerals. Thinning slightly. palate is a touch racy but overall elegant. Finish is still firm.

Wine Musings Vol#80

2009-04-03T12:18:00.010-04:00

Tasted at the most recent Realm Cellars tasting event in NYC. I did not have enough time to spend with each wine so my notes may seem a bit superficial:

Wine of Merit: ***+Realm Cellars, Dr. Crane Vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2006: Lovely. Typical, perfumed Dr. Crane nose of red fruit, licorice root, spice box and cassis. Some elderflower perhaps. The palate is smooth and well balanced. The new wood and primary and secondary elements well integrated even at this young age. A somewhat noticeable petite verdot element of pine needle and black licorice at the back of the palate, which I am guessing will integrate more as the wine ages. Lovely, fine, furry finish. A very nice, complete rendering of a Napa Valley cabernet.

***+ Realm Cellars, The Tempest, Napa Valley, 2006: Delicious, in fact downright yummy. A blend of mostly merlot, with a significant amount of cabernet sauvignon, a dollop of cab franc and petite verdot. I liked this wine, and would like it even better at a lower price point. Violets, licorice root, a touch of grilled mushroom, plum and black fruit. A touch of herbs. Very good depth and concentration. Voluminous. Good grip and length. Again, if this wine were priced inthe 30s it would be a bang the table buy. Alas, it is in the 60s...

***+ Realm Cellars, ToKalon beckstoffer Vineyard, Napa valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2006: Also very nice. I am a huge fan of this vineyard and was bowled over by the 2005 Realm offering. I think the 2006, at first blush, may not quite achieve that mark. It is a wine that takes you immediately to the ToKalon vineyard...all Rutherford dust, laser black fruit concentration, a ton of cassis...is that mint? Very nice. The palate loses me a bit...I did not find the grip and concentration of past efforts. A bit one dimensional. Perhaps even a bit juicy. The finish, like the Dr. Crane, seems to suggest some PV. Good, firm finish. A very nice wine all things considered.

**++ Realm Cellars, The Bard, Napa Valley, 2006: Nice. This is similar to the Tempest in its assemblage, with cabernet dominating instead of merlot, though somehow I found this more grapey and round, characteristics I would associate with napa merlot. A delicious if fairly straightforward wine. Lots of chocolate, some briar, big round gushy plum. My least favorite of the night but still a wine that I am sure will get better with age and will be enjoyable for 3 to 5 years from now. Not bad at all!

Wine Musings Vol#79

2009-03-15T11:24:00.013-04:00

Wine of Merit: **** Domaine Philippe Delesvaux, Anthologie, Coteaux du Layon, chenin blanc, 1997: Wow. Initially I feared this wine had suffered poor storage and had been oxidized; the cork was brittle and the color a very dark amber. Lucky for us this was not the case and the wine was excellent, if of disconcerting color. Initially the nose was pure black mission fig jam; a touch earthy, ripe, sweet (the wine has 535 gr. of residual sugar!) and deep. With time, the wine added more traditional botrytis nuances...lichee, ripe persimmon, thick clover honey, nectarine, vanilla orchid. The palate was thick and excellent, adding orange marmalade, caramel, biscotti and baking spices,a touch of brandy. Perhaps influenced by the color, a few said it reminded them of a vin santo. The finish was excellent; spicy and seemingly endless. I am sure storage has played some role here but the experience was outstanding.

***++Chateau de Baucastel, Chateau Neuf du Pape, 1994: A lovely wine. Initially offering complex, rustic, barnyard and grilled meat notes, this wine unfurled with time to offer very focused blackberry, herb, licorice root and iron aromas. Further development in the glass offered a floral hint of violet and lavender. The palate was lively, with more black fruit, pepper, minerals and brier. The palate is fine and firm. An excellent bottle.

***++Beringer Private reserve, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1991: The essence of Napa. Just stuffed with wonderful, deep, red and black stone fruit, cassis, cedar and a hint of chalky, wet slate. The palate is deep, concentrated and chewy, surprisingly youthful yet still deftly integrated. The tannins are fine and the finish long. A great ambassador for the area - a wine I would consider a first growth, or at the very least a super second, of the Napa Valley.

***++Chateau Montelena, estate, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1995 (from magnum): Speaking of ambassadors! Here is another wonderful example of what the left coast has to offer. Signature notes of mature plum, chocolate, a hint of soy, black tea and licorice. Vibrant. The palate is downright juicy, vivacious and fun to be around. Great balance. More feminine than the Beringer but not fragile or dainty, this wine is stacked. Just plain old yummy. The mag disappeared in a heartbeat. Drinking great right now.

***++Kongsgaard, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2004: I believe the 2004 vintage of Kongsgaard chards suffers in comparison with the 2003 and 2005. Still very much a worthy wine, it does not show quite the depth and concentration of the other two vintages. That said, this wine is stunning. If a bit demure, it has a stunning mineral focus, accompanied by bright marzipan, Meyer lemon and honeyed kaffir lime notes. the palate is bright and intense, more taught than other vintages, with resounding minerals and a long, Asian spice imbued finish. Great stuff!

***Clos Pegase, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Lovely and surprisingly fresh. Perhaps the first of the "let's take a large fortune and turn it into a small fortune" wineries in the Napa Valley...see Revana, Vineyard 29, Darioush, etc. This wine is nonetheless very legit. Dominated by red fruit, morrels, eucalyptus, tisane and spice, the wine is elegant and expertly crafted. The palate glides, offering good concentration, weight and balance. The finish is fine and medium to long, with spicy oak notes at the tail. Delicious and worth the wait.

***Matanzas Creek, Sonoma, merlot, 1991: I have had some success with older Matanzas Creek merlots, so I had some hopes for the longevity of this wine. It is delicious, if perhaps on the downward slope. Mature plum, blackberry and lavender mix with tertiary bell pepper, garrigue and iodine notes. Hints of mineral, vanilla and violet. The palate is full, receding here and there, with more overripe plum, violet and chocolate. The finish is of medium length and fine. Probably more vibrant and primal in its youth, it is still fun and perhaps more complex now...and very much worth drinking tonight.

A quick P.S.: The ****Aubert, Lauren Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay 2004 continues to be a breath taking, wonderful, amazing chardonnay. My notes from January of last year (Musings Vol#46) remain almost identical this week.

Wine Musings Vol#78

2009-03-05T11:33:00.004-05:00

Wine of Merit: ****Leoville Poyferre, estate, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1996: Signing in full voice. Just great, room-filling aromatics. Garrigue, blackberry, nicoise olives, licorice, cassis. Clear-eyed, focused and very much on point. The palate glides. More berries, chocolate, integrated, a touch of clove. Finish is fine and long. A wine to enjoy now or cellar for another 10 years. A pleasure - and probably still a value from that vintage as it was not a huge scoring wine upon release (88 WS, 93 RP).

***+Newton Cellars, Napa Valley, Unfiltered cabernet sauvignon, 1991: Just right. Evolved. Mature red plum fruit, funghi trifolati, grilled fennel, tar. The palate is velvet, more plum and chocolate, coating. Finish is succulent and of middle length. A wine that is giving it all it has right now.

*** Chateau La Nerthe, Chateauneuf du Pape, Blanc, 2004: Love it! Great, zesty white from the sunny part of France. I am crazy for white chateauneuf, especially in ripe vintages. This wine just has wonderful joie de vivre, great concentration and boyancy! Floral, expansive, happy notes of grilled pineapple, clover honey, cardamom, fennel, a touch of lilac or lavender. The palate is full yet firmly structured and the finish long and spicy. Van Gogh is a glass. Bottled sunshine.

***Jocelyn Lonen, Bohn Vineyard, Russian River Valley, sonoma, Reserve chardonnay, 2006: Very nice indeed. I think this represents a good benchamrk for RRV chardonnay; lovely, bright citrus zest, lime blossom, nuances of sweet tropical fruit. A note of bees wax and mild tobacco. The palate is rich, viscous and oily, adding some mineral and marzipan sugar. The finish is spicy and long, a touch of nutmeg. No one would confuse this with a white burg and no one should. A smile.

***Bedell Cellars, Cupola, North Fork Long Island, 1998: I do not profess a great deal of knowledge about Long Island wines. This is a meritage of sorts, representing a typical Bordeaux blend with cabernert, merlot, cab franc, petite verdot and malbec. I have to say...it is delicious! Age has added nice complexity to the nose, with ripe black berry fruit components, a touch of bell pepper and truffle, violets and licorice root. The low alcohol and still bright acids makes this wine a joy to have with food. Perhaps the mid palate could use some stuffing. But for a 10 year old wine you take the mid town tunnel to get to, I was impressed. Well done!

**++Duhart Millon, estate, Paulliac, Bordeaux, 1996: Buoyed by the Poyferre, I struck out for gold again. No such luck. A very decent, perfumed wine, this iteration seems a bit tired. Lovely red and black fruits on the nose, cedar and cassis. A hint of minerals. The palate thins a bit in the middle and the finish is on the short side. Probably a wine to drink up, wistfully thinking about what could have been.

Wine Musings Vol#77

2009-02-25T11:09:00.006-05:00

Wine of Merit: ****+Gaja, Sperss, Barolo, nebbiolo, 1995: A masterpiece. A prime example for those that truly appreciated that pre 1996 Gaja quest for purity. In 1996 Gaja decided to forgo the Barolo appellation so that they could "improve"the wine by adding barbera and cabernet. I love those assembled wines but have a special place in my heart for the Barolo. The 1995 is a wonderful example. Deep, ponderous,black cherry liqueur enveloped in dark, bittersweet chocolate as a base note. Higher toned, almost tangy Worcestershire notes (the UK iteration made with malt vinegar, tamarind and molasses) accompany. Fantastic! The palate is still very youthful and a bit angular but delivers plenty of black fruit, minerals, liquorice and the promise of more to come. Monster finish that is somehow still deftly integrated with the rest of the wine. Tour de Force!

***++Shibumi Knoll, Buena Tierra Vineyard, RRV, Sonoma, chardonnay, 2005: Delicious. Evidently this wine got a big score (97pts) by Jim Laube recently and thus has had some talk value. I bought it awhile ago, prior to the write up, along with the wonderful cabernet (Musings vol#49). I don't know that I would offer those kinds of accolades but this sonoma chardonnay is certainly worthy. Not for the meek, this wine is all about thick, oily, linseed and buttered popcorn. Exotic, Asian spices. Candied citrus zest and meringue. Yum! The palate is perhaps not quite as unctuous and layered, though it also features lovely citrus, latte foam and a sense of minerals. The finish integrates nicely. Not Aubert or Kongsgaard complexity, structure or depth, perhaps a level just below. A lovely, low production chard that is no longer a secret. Shibumi? Shattered!

**++Mas de la Deveze, 66, Cotes du Rousillion, grenache, 2004: A romp! Solid and wonderfully artisianal. Good stuffing, red fruit, iron, white pepper, grilled meats, some garrigue. A bit rustic but in a very honest, even earnest, kind of way. Good, youthful exuberance with nice balance and integration. No noticeable presence of new wood. I am almost embarrassed to admit that this is a $8.99 garagiste purchase. A dynamite daily drinker. I understand the 2005 to be even better. Do not hate...celebrate!

**++Domaine Zind Humbrecht, Gueberschwihr, riesling, 2004: Lovely. Not as big and flamboyant as I was lead to believe. Nice, golden delicious apple, anjou pear and nectarine notes. Some clover honey-like sweetness though not overt or distracting. Thick, concentrated and viscous on the palate with a touch of tobacco, slate and a nice mineral finish that dries toward the end. A very nice wine to accompany a spicy Thai dish, or sushi.

Wine Musings Vol#76

2009-01-25T09:09:00.006-05:00

Wine of Merit: ****Parusso, Bussia, Barolo, nebbiolo, 2003: Wow. Quite the pugilist. I admit to being a huge fan of Armando Parusso and his wines. They go from wonderful examples of their varietal and region to wines that are downright otherwordly. This is a wonderful example. Black cherry fruit, tar, tobacco, briar, espresso coffee. Violets. Great chewy texture. Full and deep wine. Clearly a wine that can be cellared for a long time. Powerful yet graceful.

****Daniel Rion, 1er cru, "Les Vignes Rondes", Nuits St. Georges, 2002: Really lovely and showing perfectly right now. Mature, red fruit and garrigues notes. Black olive, violets, balanced and integrated palate. Just a gliding sensation on the palate. Fine, perfectly integrated finish. Grace exemplified. A wine I will seek out and cellar.

****Alban Vineyards, estate, Edna Valley, roussane, 2006: Wonderful; a true delight. Great concentration and balance. SQN-esque, actually. Baked apple cobbler with vanilla ice cream notes, nutmeg, hazelnut, cinnamon, lavish. A round, filling mouth feel perfectly integrated to a yummy, citrus finish. Just dynamite. Again, a wine I will seek out and cellar, though I am unsure of the cellaring window here.

***++JJ Prum, Spatlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr, riesling , 2006 ; Just great. The 2006 vintage has gotten lost between the stellar 2005 and 2007, meaning it is most likely easier to find at retail and a buy. Honeysuckle, petrol, grilled peaches, pineapple. Perfect concentration. Long, mineral finish. I could drink this for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

***(*)Vincent Dauvissat, "Le Clos" chablis, 2006: A similar comment to the Prum here in reference to vintage. I found this wine chiseled and a bit austere, as a young Chablis often is. Excellent minerality, linden and lemon pith, bracing acids and tart white Asian pear. Powerful, with telltale, briny crushed oyster shell that I find a central characteristic of many great wines from this region. Firm and most likely a wine that will benefit from years of cellaring. Statuesque.

***+Ca' Marcanda,, Magari, Toscana IGT, 2005: This is a stand by I can always trust...and I thought this was showing very well. Red berry and black stone fruit, floral, spice box, clove, pipe tobacco and chocolate. Velvety and lush. Fine tannins on the finish. Delicious. It has become pricey of late, which is too bad. A lovely example of what used to be a very sensibly priced "Super Tuscan" IGT.

***+Ridge, Lytton Springs, sonoma, zinfandel, 2005: This is really not a zinfandel as much as it is a field blend of zinfandel, grenache, mouvedre and petite syrah. I found it lovely. Harmonious, red and black berry fruit, black pepper, lavender, tagine spices and briar. Wonderful balance. A wine that can age well or be consumed young. I thought it was great.

***Cheval des Andes, Mendoza, malbec, 2005: Made by the folks that make Cheval Blanc in Bordeaux. A very powerful, deep wine. Mostly Malbec with other Bordeaux varietals in the assembly. Perhaps a bit over the top for me. A brute. Clearly in need of cellar time to sort itself out a bit. Wonderful purity. Could be excellent.

Wine Musings Vol#75

2009-01-24T13:09:00.007-05:00

Wine of Merit: ***++Gravner, Estate, Friuli Venezia Giulia, ribolla gialla, 2000: I love this wine. Initially demure, with time and air it opens up to reveal that crazy Gravner complexity: All grilled fennel, celery seed, dried apricot, a hint of mandarin orange. Full and generous on the palate with more citrus, honeyed tobacco...yum! An unusual wine that demands your attention. Great stuff.

***++Feudi di San Gregorio, Patrimo, Irpinia Rosso, IGT,Campagnia, 2001: Delicious. Full throttle, this wine is 100% merlot yet never strays far from its southern Italian roots. Lush, flamboyant but still big boned and muscular, it offers ripe plum, licorice and roasted chestnut notes accompanied by espresso macchiato undertones that I just love. Coating on entry, it assaults the palate with staining concentration and grip. The finish is big but not overly so...nicely balanced with the rest of this bigger than life wine. A San Gennaro festival in a glass, complete with fireworks and zeppoli. Fantastico!

***+Fattoria Viticcio, Chianti Classico Riserva, Grieve in Chianti, sangiovese, 2001: Just delicious. Bright, vibrant boysenberry, plum and red currant fruit accompanied by nervy spice box and black pepper undertones. Ample mouth feel, good tannic backbone, long fine finish. Great food wine. The essence of Chanti Classico. At under $30, this wine is a steal.

***+Failla, Keefer Ranch, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, chardonnay, 2003: Drinking great right now. Surprisingly Burgundian. Sharp, mineral, lemon lime zest notes, marzipan, baking spices and linseed. Firm acidity. More minerals, ginger and a key lime custard note on the palate. Medium long, spicy finish. All in all a very nice chardonnay.

***Aston Estate, Experimental Lot, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2004: This wine actually doesn't say Aston Estate on it. I am guessing it was from vines deemed too young to produce a finished wine...thus the experimental nature. Actually, this wine is every bit as finished as the other Aston wines. It has the signature dark, brooding black cherry nose, the forest floor elements, an note of baker's chocolate and white pepper in the background. Palate is coating and full. Finish is firm. Perhaps not quite as polished or sophisticated, it is nonetheless capable.

Wine Musings Vol#74

2009-01-03T23:14:00.006-05:00

Wine of Merit: ****Tenuta Guado al Tasso, Bolgheri Superiore, 1997: Wow. This wine is enormous and just bursting at the seams. Dense, deep, concentrated, primal; it seems to me that this is showing none of its 11+ years of age. Laser-focused black berry fruit, spearmint, tar, floral violets and crushed gravel elements make me think new world, or maybe new styled Barolo. The palate mimics these initial impressions. Deep, almost impenetrable, with more black fruit and minerals, coating and firm front to back. Even with much time in the glass this seems to be a wine that will benefit from years if not decades of aging. Wonderful.

***++Castello dei Rampolla, Sammarco, 1997: Really wonderful. Perhaps a touch more mature than the Guado al Tasso, but perfectly balanced and deftly integrated. A similar new world profile of black berry, menthol and minerals, the notes are complemented with some red fruit and an undertone of citrus. The palate is simply integration and balance exemplified. Lovely fruit profile on the coating entry, good firm tannic backbone, great mid palate feel, long fine finish. Just a dynamite wine that, like Guado al Tasso, gets lost a bit in the crowd of wines whose names end in "aia".

***++Argiano, Brunello di Montalcino, sangiovese, 1997: Wow. Quite the tour de force. The complexity and savage nature of this wine would have made me guess St. Estephe if the wine were blinded. Ox blood in hue, smoke, roasted meats, red fruit, mocha, rosemary, truffle, oil cured black olive. Chewy, dense, mouth filling wine with a slight raciness to the mid palate before a firm, mineral finish. Delicious and totally worth it. A meal in a glass.

***Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, 1997: I was introduced to Ornellaia at the Cantina Antinori in Florence with the 1988 vintage and was bowled over. Since then, it has come to be one of poster children of the "Super Tuscan" genre of wines made in the Bolgheri area. And rightfully so, as it is typically breathtaking, vintage in and vintage out. This iteration may have been one of the vintages that propelled Ornellaia past Tignanello and into the spotlight. 11 years later, this wine is showing its maturity, adding complexity and nuance to its initial exuberant expression. Stewed plum, tomato skin, smoke, bacon fat, espresso, soy and mocha create a melange that reminds me of much older cab based wines from California and Bordeaux. The palate is fine and not tired at all, showing more red fruit and chocolate. The finish is fine and resolved...a top wine that has evolved nicely and will reward patience with a fine drinking experience. Lovely.

Wine Musings Vol#73

2008-12-21T11:01:00.016-05:00

****Wine of Merit: Kosta Browne, Amber Ridge vineyard, Russian River Valley, pinot noir, 2006: Much has been said and written about the Kosta Browne pinots. I tend to agree with most of it. That said, the 2006s were not given the same drop-to-your-knees-not-worthy accolades. Candidly, I am not sure why. This wine is nothing short of wonderful. Deep, expansive, layered, it is a wonderful example of both the RRV terroir and the varietal. And the deft blending of clones is close to perfect. Clearly more clone 667 driven, this wine has excellent structure and a black cherry, cola primary element, complemented with wild strawberry, uva fragola and minerals. Wonderfully balanced and deftly integrated. Fine sweet tannins. I think this wine will nuance and build over time, but I can't imagine waiting that long. Delicious.

****Leoville Barton, Estate, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 2005: I am sure most will think this crazy early to drink this wine and I agree. It was more to set the benchmark as I have invested significantly in this wine and 2005 Bordeaux in general purely on others reviews. So is it worth the hype? You bet! Of course, in its present, hard-as-nails condition this is more about a preview then a full length feature, but it does tantalize. Serious, deep red and black fruit, cedar, graphite, minerals a touch of brier...this wine reminds me of a home run hitter all coiled up awaiting the high fastball. The palate is deep, deep, deep and offers an iron backbone front to back. Endless black fruit and mineral driven to a pronounced but perfectly integrated finish. I will put this to bed for another eight years or so and check in post hibernation. Exciting!

***++Realm, Beckstoffer Tokalon vineyard, Oakville, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: I was introduced to this wine via barrel sample at the Polaner tasting and fell in love. Great purity and focus. Lovely blackberry, cassis, cedar, a touch of black cherry...this wine is just stuffed with flavor. The palate is velvety, with more berry and chocolate covered espresso bean. With air, a slight green pepper element is added, which adds complexity. Lovely, coating, fine and firm on the tail end. A wine to savor and relish. Yum!

***++Cedric Bouchard, Inflorescence, Blanc de noirs "Val Vilaine", champagne, NV: I love Cedric Bouchard champagnes. The Roses de Jeanne is breathtaking. This wine is also delicious. 100% pinot noir with no dosage. Bright, floral, orange blossom notes soar from the glass. This is exubernace vinified. Lovely rose petal, strawberry, challah french toast...a full meal with bubbles. Acids are bright and cutting, from attack to the back of the palate. This is not the typical yeasty, doughy NV champagne we have all just learned to deal with (actually, this wine is from the 2005 vintage but Bouchard does not identify it as such on the label). It is a cut above. Purchased through garagiste, it is a dynamite wine that offers amazing QPR. A must buy.

***Fattoria delle Terraze, Chaos, Le Marche, 2004: I dig the wines made by the crazy Terni family and this fattoria up on Monte Conero. The Planet Waves bottling is wonderful. This is a wine made mostly of rosso montepulciano, with the other half divided up equally 25% syrah and 25% Merlot. It is decidedly new world, though unmistakably montepulciano based. Red berry fruit, Asian spice and herbs drive this excitable wine. The syrah adds blueberry and clove, the merlot a lovely candied violet and the new oak adds mocha, white chocolate and vanilla. Velvet mouth feel and integrated, spicy finish. Very nice, if perhaps a bit too much of a nod to more "international" wine making techniques. But it is from the Marche - and I love it!

Wine Musings Vol#72

2008-12-13T16:14:00.013-05:00

Wine of Merit: ****Mount Veeder Winery, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1990: I miss this style of Napa wine. Balanced and thoughtful, lower in alcohol (13.5%) as was the style 18 years ago, this wine is still fresh and has added sophistication and nuance with age. Still surprisingly exuberant, maybe more confident than cocky. Blackberry preserves, olive tapenade, brier...this integrated melange needs little coaxing to show its stuff. The palate too is lively and full but never fat, showing more black fruits, minerals and baking chocolate. The finish is firm and fine. I think this wine is at its absolute peak. I can imagine that most of this has been consumed long ago by ye of little faith. For those few holdouts...patience has indeed been a virtue. Good on release, much better now. Drink now and celebrate.

***+Failla, Alban vineyard, viognier, 2006: A wine that I always relish, I feel that Failla makes one of the few acceptable viognier based wines in the new world (the other stand out for me being the Kongsgaard Vio/Rus). Still, it is not always up to snuff. The 2006 does not disappoint. Lovely, floral but still deep and concentrated. Lovely Provencal herbs accompany the orange blossom, hibiscus, candied violet and vanilla bean. Lovely mineral and citrus palate. Bright, spicy finish. Righteous. A great white wine change up and wonderful food wine to boot.

***Black Bart, Stagecoach vineyard, Napa, syrah, 2004: I enjoy wines made from the Stagecoach vineyard. Of course, at over 500 acres under vine, that is a bit of a generic statement. Still, the Krupp brothers seem to grow delicious fruit and those who source from it tend to make delicious wines. The Black Bart bottling is made by the Krupps themselves and is indeed a yummy, expansive, mouthful of Napa grape juice. Even given the size of the vineyard, I still get a distinct sense of place, that southern Napa mountain red/black berry fruit, bramble and mineral driven style followed by a slight, vegetal counterattack, with the cinnamon and clove from the whole cluster fermentation adding the final kicker. A dollop of co fermented viognier adds a floral, citrus note. The wine is big boned and coating, with a firm palate and a firmer, juicy finish. Big Black Bart. I know this is not supposed to be the visual, but as I sip this wine I can't help but conjure up Clevon Little riding into town with his fringed velour cowboy outfit and his Gucci saddle, waving to Count Basie as he rides by. Now that's style!

Wine Musings Vol#71

2008-11-08T10:23:00.003-05:00

Wine of Merit: ***++Pahlmeyer Winery, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2006: Another chardonnay that I admire, often from up close. This iteration of Jason Pahlmeyer’s white wine concoction is less corpulent and flattering than I have typically come to expect. High toned citrus blossom, peach nectar, cardamom and Zuppa Inglese. The palate shows structure and focus, bright acids and Asian spice, even as it expands ad envelops. A wine I am happy to welcome to the table each and every time. Super.

***+Aston Estate, Clone 115/667, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2006: Big Ups to Thomas Rivers Brown. I know and love his Rivers Marie pinots. That said I knew this was a new wine from a new vineyard, made for someone other than himself (in this case Schrader). I am pleased to report that it is delicious. True to its Sonoma Coast rootstock, this wine is deep and brooding, but not heavy handed or over extracted in any way. Vibrant? Powerful? You bet. But still balanced, beautifully integrated and true to the varietal. I happen to love the 115 and 667 clones and know them intimately (I make a pinot using that same make up from the Amber Ridge vineyard in the RRV) and was quite pleased to see how each clone contributed in a clear, focused, unmistakable way to create a whole greater than the sum of the parts. The 115 offers lovely, deep, fragrant pinot aromatics of bing cherry, cola, floral tisane and cinnamon stick. The 667 makes up the stuffing, with darker fruit notes, blood orange, smoke, spice and a strong backbone. Generous mouth feel and a fine, tingly, spicy finish. A lovely wine and one that I will cellar with confidence and drink with pleasure. Well done TRB!

***Flowers Winery, estate vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2002: I have quite a bit of heart for what Flowers has accomplished out on Camp Meeting Ridge over the years. The wines are dense and complex, long lived wines that reward cellaring with nuance and added sophistication. This chardonnay follows suit. Lovely, bright citric fruit, tobacco and minerals. A slight autumnal quality. A definite sense of Sonoma Coast terroir. The wine is still taught and toned, showing excellent depth. Full, expansive mid palate and a long, firm finish. Top notch effort.

**++Two Hands Winery, For Love or Money, cane cut semillon, Barossa Valley, 2005: I find Aussie desert wine and French desert wine as comparable as Australian rules football and The Beautiful Game…which is too say almost not at all. One is about brute force and will, the other about grace and art and talent. So it is with this Two Hands semillon, which has been compared by others to a Sauturnes. Favorably. I don’t see it. Yes it possesses botrytis like sweetness, canned peach syrup, lichee, honeysuckle and jasmine. But the flavors and aromas are obvious and cloying, as is the mouth feel. The finish is a bit vague. Not that this is a bad wine; it is not. It is delicious…just delicious in an obvious way. And while it is much less expensive than top notch sauternes (what isn’t?), I think in this case you get what you pay for. A fun romp.

Wine Musings Vol#70

2008-11-07T13:38:00.007-05:00

Wine of Merit: ****++Diamond Creek Winery, Gravelly Meadow, Diamond Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1983 : The Grand Daddy. I have a very soft spot in my heart for this vintner, this winery and this vineyard. To drink this wine now, 25 years after harvest, is to realize that ultimately Al Brounstein was a genius, perhaps even a prophet, was right about everything and knew more about how to make great wine than all of his critics will ever know in their combined lifetimes. Fresh as a daisy, more complex than a Stella, as true as the word of G-d, this wine moves me. Wonderful, nuanced elements of freshly butchered fillet of beef, iodine, smoky grilled red pepper, ripe red fruit, warm black lava beach pebbles, chewy licorice root, how this is a new world wine is beyond me. Pressed I would have guessed 90 Montrose! With time in the glass, out rolls the fresh broad leaf cigar tobacco, the note that consistently makes cognoscenti call this wine the Haut Brion of Napa. Full, beautiful, perfectly balanced palate shows more red/black fruit and minerals.
Not worthy – but grateful indeed.

****+Château Ducru Beaucalliou, estate, St. Julien, bordeaux, 1995 : True to form is this Ducru, the “super-est” of all super seconds in my opinion. I always find myself using the term “stately” when describing wine from this estate; this wine has excellent posture, dresses in the best fabrics and has excellent table manners! Brooding dark fruit, cassis, cedar, chalk, wonderful black pepper, violets and stony minerals…give this wine time to unfold itself in the glass and marvel at its layers. The palate is full on, bottomless, still primal but wonderfully balanced and staged. Same goes for the finish. A great wine to drink or hold. Lovely.

****Domaine de Chevalier, estate, Pessac Leognan, bordeaux blanc, 2002: It is true that if I had to be a white wine I would be a grand cru Chablis. That said if somehow Chablis were not available to me, I would be white Bordeaux from Graves with nary a whimper. I just love this wine's complexity, its style, its panache. Bright, aromatic lime blossom, fresh ginger, ripe star fruit (yes, that’s right…star fruit. I also thought it tasted like nothing until I had it in Mexico a few years back. Find it and try it!), honeyed tobacco and an undeniable fresh, ripe Crenshaw melon note all come together just perfectly. A nuance of celery root. Beautiful integration front to back, firm but never biting palate. So fresh! Long finish, with a touch of white pepper and Thai basil. Hard to believe this was $30 at retail. What a steal. Righteous.

****Château Montrose, estate, St. Estephe, bordeaux, 1999 : You know, Montrose is one of those wines. Always alluring, sometimes mind boggling, just the mention heightens the senses and stirs a certain anticipation. Ohhhh…the possibilities; often somewhat wild and savage (when it is at its best), this wine is not quite there yet, though very promising. Still very primal and perhaps even still working off its baby fat, it is magically delicious, beckoning with come hither qualities of ripe plum, fragrant violet and thick, zesty black pepper. The palate flatters…but one senses the muscle hiding beneath. The finish points even more to better days, firm and integrated. Somewhat still one dimensional, I get the sense that this wine will offer even more pleasure and nuance as it continues to age. Yummy now, I believe this holds delights yet to be sampled if one can just avail oneself of the virtue of patience.

Wine Musings Vol#69

2008-10-18T17:00:00.004-04:00

Wine of Merit: ***+White Cottage Ranch, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Really I think this is the wine I was hoping for when we popped the cork on the Dunn 1990, perhaps with the added depth that Dunn is so noted for. Lovely. Nicely nuanced black fruit, bramble and licorice root. The fruit retains its White Cottage signature juiciness but has toned down the exuberance a bit. This wine really vindicates owner/winemaker Dennis Johns’ fervent point of view that wines need not be austere upon release to age well…the secret ingredient is balance. By the way, if you ever get a chance to venture out to the area, make an appointment to visit with Dennis. His exubernace is wonderful...and catching. 13 years out and the wine flows front to back with nary a drop out, offering wonderful mountain fruit flavors, integration, great mouth feel and a middle weight, peppery sweet finish that invites you back for more. And I will oblige! Delicious.

***+Aubert, Reuling vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2004: Having recently tried the UV vineyard, I thought it would be opportune to try the other vineyard designate, the Reuling. I find the wines to be similar. Big, powerful pinot noir. Not as abrasive or extracted as many of the recently popular Central Coast offerings (Sea Smoke, Melville) but still more masculine iterations of the varietal. Black cherry liquor, peppermint candy syrup, church incense, all commingle to create a heady mélange. The palate follows suit, mouth filling, a touch vague. And it brings the heat. Finish is powerful as well. I wonder if this will all come around with time…I am currently a skeptic. Candidly I appreciate the style…but it is not really for me.

***Ridge, Jimsomare ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains, cabernet sauvignon, 1994 (ATP): I will admit to not having a lot of success with the ATP program, which ended up being a kind of island of the misfit toys thing that Ridge did (maybe they still do) with small lots of interesting varietals, vineyards and blends. I am happy to report that this wine is one of the exceptions. Even though Draper suggests that this wine was more near term than not, the experience dictates that this is exactly the right time to drink this wine. Perfectly integrated, the wine still boasts lovely, feminine red berry, cassis fruit, spice and a fair touch of American oak. The palate is racy and lively but not overly so and very much a pleasure, perhaps adding a nice touch of minerals. Here again, no thinning in the middle, no drop off at the lively, peppery end. A lovely food wine with roasted rosemary infused poultry and some red potatoes. Very nice indeed.

**++Double Diamond, Bomber X, Lake County, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: As anyone can tell you, I am a huge Thomas Brown fan. That said, this wine is really not made in my style. And I know it is not the fruit, as this is pretty much the same area from which 75 Cellars makes their great QPR cab (see 75 cellars review). This wine is made more in the Plump Jack, Husic style with more extraction, chocolate covered raisin, plum and Asian spice style The palate is lively if a bit racy, the presence of oak pronounced, the finish firm with a touch of green wood right at the end. I know these wines are made by Schrader to offer a low price alternative to his estate wines. And I think many will like this wine very much and find it a bargain. But the 2006 letter just came out with a price increase to $30 a bottle…and I will not be ordering.

Wine Musings Vol#68: Cru Dinner (IV)

2008-10-01T15:37:00.004-04:00

Wine of Merit: ****Alois Kracher, TBA #12, Weinlaubenhof, Burgenland, Austria, scheurebe, 1998: Ok…I cannot resist…it is the last flight of the night and given the wine’s considerable heft…this fat lady sings! Wow. If the Huet is light hearted, this wine really is the Viking helmeted, big bosomed diva, powerfully belting out the final aria in full voice. Huge, thick, orange blossom, honeyed tobacco, minerals, canned peaches…so good, so lush, so concentrated – so balanced! - …it is sensory overload and I just love it. I cannot discern any real grape varietal nuances to this…it is simply heavily botrytised dessert wine. And I am glad for it. Dare I say it? What the heck: Schweet.

***+Huet, Le Haut Lieu, Moelleux, Vouvray, chenin blanc, 1947: Much fanfare and anticipation accompanies this wine. I know some who have said it is the best white wine they have ever had the opportunity to taste. In that context I am left second guessing. The wine was in fact lovely. Amber in color, I was particularly impressed by how light hearted this wine was. I mean given the heavy residual sugar (by the way…what makes this wine “sec”? makes no sense to me) I would think this wine would easily tend to the overtly romantic, perhaps even the cloyingly heavy handed. Instead the wine dances and sings, maybe even skates, gliding effortlessly across the palate, while perhaps even humming a tune. But the aromatics were well beyond mature. Burnt sugar, dried white/yellow stone fruit, a slight herbaceous quality…none of this beyond what might have been hoped for. Very nice but lacking the sophistication and elegance one might have presumed a wine of this pedigree should possess. Middling finish. I have a feeling provenance of wines like these is especially important and would expect significant bottle variation. I can imagine this, if perhaps a bit more lively up front, to be an important wine. I should point out that others had this wine in their top 3 wines of the evening, so perhaps I was just fatigued at this point.

***Huet, Le Haut Lieu, Moelleux, Vouvray, chenin blanc, 1921: As serendipity would have it, Roy had a bottle of the 1921 Le Haut Lieu hanging out in the cellar, awaiting just such an occasion! Lucky us! Caramel toffee in color, my notes reflect the 1947…just less so. Perhaps a more pronounced minerality and an interesting smoky, toasted marshmallow and graham cracker sandwich, toasted on a campfire in the outdoors element. A $1000 s’more (without the chocolate)?! A fun experiment and experience…when else will I be able to duplicate this kind of vertical tasting? I think this is where a long evening with 20 bottles is probably paying a disservice to my ability to describe these wines. Still…this wine did not stand out in the flight for reasons other than its age and maturity.

**++Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume, chenin blanc, Loire Valley, 1971: I admit to being a big Quarts de Chaume fan. I enjoy how the folks at Baumard typically balance the sweet, unctuous nature of this wine with the vibrant fruited elements and lively mouth feel. That said, I was a bit let down by this wine. It didn’t really speak to me, or I should say that if it did speak to me I couldn’t make out very much of what it was saying. Typically focused elements of apricot, honeyed peach and petrol were at best a bit fuzzy; I found the wine a bit astringent on the palate and muted on the finish. I am not sure if this just wasn’t a great bottle, if the wine was a bit upstaged by the others in the flight or if 30 some odd years are just too many for a Quarts de Chaume. Pleasant and enjoyable for what it is (an old dessert wine) but not up to the standards other vintages have set.

In the end, I would say that the Jayer burg, the Trimach rieseling and the chablis were my top 3 wines of the evening. Those were followed in a second peleton made up of the Sine Qua Non, the Chinon, the Kracher TBA and the Margaux. What an experience. Thanks to one and all (espcially Roy and the Cru Crew) for making this an event not soon if ever forgotten. FIN.

Wine Musings Vol#67: Cru dinner (III)

2008-09-28T22:02:00.006-04:00

Wine of Merit: ****Chateau Margaux, Estate, Margaux, Bordeaux, 1983: A lovely wine that can easily get lost in a crowd if one isn’t attentive. The 1983 is a special Margaux vintage and this wine held its own. Suave, velvety, nuanced, this was a meal-in-a-glass that however must be consumed with the best table manners and white glove service. Red fruit driven, with hints of grilled meat, smoke, cassis, tagine spices and flowers, I was happy to slow down and focus a bit on this lovely, sophisticated prima donna. In reality this wine is more a grand damme, showing its age more than slightly, more full bodied than svelte, perhaps a bit stubborn but still in complete control of its faculties, still perfectly proportioned, silky smooth and still very much demanding of respect and admiration. Delicious and worthy of the accolades.

**+Dunn Vineyards, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1990: Somewhat controversial. Many loved this wine. I found something off about it. It seemed almost dirty to me, as if the filter used when taking it from barrel to glass was not cleaned well. Others were not so concerned – even placing it in the top 5 of the night. Beyond this detraction, I found the wine a touch vegetal, with some good cedar, minerals and brambly mountain fruit that seemed perhaps a bit dried up. The palate was firm and I thought a touch disjointed. Don Rice commented that he thought something was “wrong” with this wine…and I agree. I love Randy Dunn’s wines - I think the 82 Howell Mountain maybe one of the best mountain cabs I have ever had (next to the 74 Mayacamus)…but this one seemed lacking to me. Perhaps I needed to spend more time with it…but I just couldn’t bring myself to do it.

***+Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, Estate, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1982: While I am appreciative of all that Bordeaux has to offer, I am I think most appreciative of St. Julien. And amongst the St. Julien houses, Ducru Beaucaillou somehow seems to have my number. And among the great wines of Ducru, 1982 is the standard. So…I am always happy to crack a bottle of this wine. Solid red and black currant fruit, cassis, cedar, broad leaf tobacco, a touch of loam and spice, this wine has wonderful depth and flavor. Coating and layered upon entry, the palate introduces melted black licorice and an excellent mineral profile. A smidge of a drop off mid palate may be this wines only flaw. The finish is furry and sweet and seems to last longer than a wine made in my high school graduating year has any right to presume. Lovely and a rarity in this day…something you can bank on and trust to perform. Delicious.

Spring Mountain Vineyards, Estate, Spring Mountain district, cabernet sauvignon, 1978: I include this only so as to be thorough. This wine was corked. As is typical, much convo ensued about “how corked” it was…for me corked is corked. I was surprised at how youthful and seemingly vibrant the palate was. Still, this is a DQ in my book. Moving on…

***+Peter Michael Winery, Estate, Les Pavots, Knights Valley, 1997: Les Pavots is a Bordeaux-like blend, mostly cabernet sauvignon, that tends toward high extraction and even higher alcohol content. In this case we are talking 14.8%. I have always found it fairly open knit upon release and have often wondered if it really had any aging potential at all. This wine is super ripe and a bit volatile. Prune danish, baking spices, iodine, kirsch and autumnal forest floor elements, this almost has Amarone-like qualities, which in and of themselves are not off putting…in fact I dig them, though I find the heat distracting. The palate feels at once a bit thin upfront and then fat and vague from the mid palate on…perhaps a wine that is best consumed sooner rather than later. I think that the Sonoma Mountain fruit could probably present a more integrated, balanced picture if the wine was treated more even handedly. As it is it is yummy, but perhaps a bit too manufactured.

Wine Musings Vol#66: The Cru Dinner (II)

2008-09-27T23:58:00.005-04:00

Wine of Merit: *****Henri Jayer, Vosne Romanee, Cros Parantoux, 1er Cru, Cote D'Or, 1990: The undisputed wine of the evening and really a benchmark for every bottle of wine I have had to this point. Ever. One quick dip of the nose into the glass pricks the senses, immediately pointing to something ethereal and rare. Burgundian elements of ripe black cherry, rose petal, fresh soil after a light rain, a mixture of freshly ground nutmeg and a touch of Indian spice…a nuance of exotic Mariage Freres fruited white tea...white truffle? With so much to offer upfront, I approached the palate with some trepidation. It does not disappoint. Full but perfectly delineated, one almost rushes past the signature fruit, forest floor, pepper and green tea… buoyed by the otherworldly palate feel and balance. It seems effortless, fresh and serene, somehow reminding me of walking the beaches of Anguilla at nightfall while the ocean layered caressing wave break upon wave break on the white sandy shores. This wine transported me that way. Long, spread out finish that just fans as it leaves its impression on the palate. And perhaps the most amazing thing...It somehow improved with food, the acidity and mouth feel of the wine binding itself to the flavors of the meal to contribute to an even greater high. It was not me who called Burgundy the Cocaine of wines…but I see it. The Grail.

***+Aubert, UV vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2004: The shame of having to be paired with the Jayer wine. Almost a crime. A high school prom queen introduced next to Catherine DeNeuve in her prime. Still, one must appreciate what it has to offer. Deep, lush Sonoma Coast sugar plum and blackberry fruit, floral violet, black cherry liquor and necco wafer sweetness, a touch of pine needle and forest floor, this wine is made in much more of the now very popular Robert Parker-esque pinot noir style. But while it skates dangerously close, it restrains itself from crossing that pinot-becomes-syrah edge that many Sonoma and Central coast pinots dash right over. I would describe the palate as rubenesque – full, rich and generous, tending toward fleshy, with more of the black cherry and baker’s spiciness, complemented by a small, lingering heat wave as the finish retreats off the tongue. I believe Robert Parker called this wine prodigious…and I will give it that. Similar to the Marcassin, a wine to appreciate if not enjoy. I brought this wine to the dinner and candidly felt punked by the Jayer inclusion…though, as Leopardi once put it – “…il naufragar mi e dolce in questo mare” (…being shipwrecked in this sea is sweet to me).

***+Charles Jouget, Clos de la dioterie, Chinon, 1990: I just loved this quixotic, wonderfully ebullient chinon. Not that it had bubbles…but it had energy and panache! Bright, effusive briny, green olive jumps from the glass. It is so fresh and focused. Under ripe blueberries, fresh sage, maybe a touch of cigar smoke and minerals…super interesting. The palate flows like a brook; light to medium weight, intense and vivacious. Good sap and a lovely if surprising black cherry sweetness mid palate, accompanied by more pronounced violet/lavender that reminded me of that C Howard violet gum that you don’t see anymore. What a great expression of Cabernet Franc. Terrific.

****Sine Qua Non, In Flagrante, Central Coast, syrah, 2000: Another amazing wine. I love all of the SQN wines…and I loved this one too. Deep, almost bottomless expression of black fruit, licorice root, Malabar pepper, shoe polish and wet slate pour from the glass. The co-fermented viognier and very healthy dose of new oak contribute wonderful floral and vanillin nuances. Nothing shy here, this wine is a colossus…but I would venture the friendly giant sort. I admit that this syrah may lack the deft balance and touch of an Eric Texier wine, but I honestly don’t think that is what we are going for here. Not to say this wine is not at once silky and exuberant, stuffed but still wonderfully integrated, muscular but well proportioned…in my opinion it is all of those things. It is just that this wine is made to be a romp, a tussle and not a ballroom dance. I mean, just look at the label! Great juice that must be appreciated and yes enjoyed for the flight of fancy it is. I will buy as much as they (Robb) send my way and be grateful for it. Perhaps not quite as good (meaning polished, integrated and nuanced) as the 1996 Against the Wall, but a signature wine nonetheless.

Wine Musings Vol#65: The Cru Dinner

2008-09-27T23:35:00.005-04:00

The following wines were served at one sitting at Restaurant Cru in New York City (www.cru-nyc.com). Many were brought to the table by the restaurant owner Roy Welland, who joined us for the evening in Cru’s private cellar dining room. While these kinds of events are wonderful, they make tasting note taking almost impossible, so I apologize in advance for perhaps less than comprehensive notes in some wines’ regard. The notes are not in order of merit, but in the order in which the wines were poured. Further, as there are 20 or so wines, I have broken them into 4 volumes, with natural breaks, which I will post on consecutive days:

***++Bollinger, RD, Extra Brut, Ay, champagne, 1988: Roy is a champagne aficionado, and started us off with two wonderful vintage champagnes, the Bollinger RD 88 and the 81, from magnum. Both are lovely. I tended toward the newer vintage as it showed more of that yeasty richness that serves as the trademark for this house. Surprisingly youthful and vibrant (I believe this wine was disgorged in 2001), the wine shows off a wonderful mousse and fine, energetic bead. That thick yeastiness is accompanied by notes of zesty candied lemon, tropical nuts and wet stone. The palate offers wonderful, rich texture, more citrus, hazelnut and ginger and a fine, pronounced spicy, mineral finish. Super. Perhaps not as sophisticated and bold as the Sir Winston (my fave) but a great example of wonderful vintage champagne.

***Bollinger, RD, Extra Brut, Ay, champagne, 1981: Rather than post comprehensive notes on the 81, I will simply say that my notes were fairly consistent with two important differences: A clearly more malic, green apple profile, more of a mineral impression and a somewhat reduced palate and finish which makes me sense that the wine has peaked and should be enjoyed now and in the short term. Still, a wonderful glass of bubbly.

Wine of Merit: *****Trimbach, Clos St. Hune, Alsace, riesling, 1990: Breathtaking. Another Roy offering. I have to admit to being bowled over by this wine. Really. Even just conjuring up the sensations required to write these notes makes me a little misty. It’s just that I was nowhere near ready for how amazingly complex, nuanced, perfectly integrated, fresh and profound this wine was going to be. This wine is at once unctuous and gossamer, showing off perfumed notes of Anjou pear and perfect white peach, lily of the valley, orange blossom, a hint of delicate, Madagascar pink peppercorn, a light wafting of petrol. Just amazing. The palate coats and glides, viscous and fluid, perfectly weighted, perfect acid backbone, the perfect touch of lemon, lime, meringue. Perfect follow through. Long mineral finish. Ageless. Haunting. And perfectly paired with the most wonderful, butter-like, wafer thin sashimi I have ever had (kudos to the Cru Crew!). Available at $400 generally speaking at retail. Somehow a steal.

***+Marcassin, Zio Tony Ranch, Sonoma, chardonnay, 2003: I think this wine epitomizes the difficult relationship I have with Marcassin wines. On the one side the flavors are powerful and intense; a daring, vinous tour de force. A Corton Charlemagne on steroids, this wine assaults you with huge amounts of linseed, buttered popcorn, nutmeg, petrol, limoncello and powdered sugar. On the other hand I find the wines blousy and hot, in this case resulting in diminished, carmelized, candied fruit and a blurred, vague palate profile. It is almost like the winemaker can’t help but turn it up to eleven, even though a more dulcimer tone might actually do the fruit more justice. A fun wine to taste and appreciate, but a difficult wine to enjoy.

****Kongsgaard, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2004: Betting more on balance is the Kongsgaard. Perhaps not as in your face, this wine (immediately a consistent favorite of mine) offers more focused characteristics and a much more integrated, balanced palate. No mistaking it for a Burgundy to be sure…simply a wonderful expression of Napa fruit with wonderful depth and excellent layering of flavors through to a spicy, long finish. I have posted on this wine before and the notes are consistent, though serving this wine with the Trimbach and the Blanchots Chablis perhaps brings it to earth a bit. Still – I am happy to cellar this and would still consider it the standard in California chardonnay.

Wine of Merit: *****Domaine Francois Raveneau, Blanchots, Grand Cru, Chablis, 1996: Here again, Roy serves a wine that sets the benchmark. What class. What stature. What purity. Drinking this wine makes me think of the first time I saw Michelangelo’s David; perfectly proportioned…chiseled perfection. This wine must clearly be at its peak, I cannot imagine it getting better – though it seems ageless and bright. High toned elements of white hibiscus, Asian pear, Meyer lemon, liquid minerals…the definition of Chablis. Somehow this wine is at once austere and welcoming. The palate has bracing acids but they are never off putting or hard-edged and the finish offers more long minerals and peppery lemon fruit. Wow. I have to say, Chablis still offers amazing value for what it delivers. I have invested heavily in 1996 grand cru Chablis (my boys’ birth year) and am glad of it.

Wine Musings Vol#64

2008-09-21T09:23:00.006-04:00

Wine of Merit: ****+Domaine Paul Autard, La Cote Ronde, Chateauneuf du Pape, 2003: Wow! I have previously posted with great admiration of and appreciation for this wine and winemaker. Truth be told this wine is simply at its pinnacle and garners even greater praise. While both this and the Moncayo (see below) are based on the same varietal that is where the similarities end. This wine is all about sophistication and nuance, with deftly integrated elements that come together to create a masterpiece. Layers upon layers of boysenberry, pipe tobacco, fresh virgin olive oil, black nicoise olive tapenade, lavender and violets, pink peppercorn (I know I can’t believe it either!) all distinct and intact come together like a delicious meal would with perfectly harmonious ingredients. What a masterful wine. The flavors integrate just as well on the coating palate, where the peppercorn and fruit elements play more center stage. Just perfect integration and balance with a tremendous, spice infused finish, all of which bode well for future aging. Given its avails at under $50, I can’t speak highly enough of this wine. I would buy more before Jean-paul Autard becomes the next Paul Avril! A real pleasure.

***++Chateau Duhart Million, Domains Barons de Rothschild, Paulliac, Grand Cru Classe, Bordeaux, 2000: From magnum. Just a dynamite wine. Hard to believe that cali cab makers are fronting 1st vintage “cults” for over $100 a bottle when stuff with this provenance and pedigree can be had for 40% less eight years after vintage. To be fair, this wine has received tepid reviews which I am sure have kept the price down. Our luck – I would buy some before RP checks back in on the wine again (his scores have gone up every year he has re-tasted this wine)! Anyway…to each his own. With 2 to 4 hours of air this wine opens to reveal layer upon layer of velvety, rich pipe tobacco, cassis, blackberry, blood, grilled meats, cinnamon and licorice root. More black fruit and super liquid minerals on the muscular but very approachable palate. Deft balance and integration right through to the fine, almost sweet finish. Sure, this wine can be put away and it will age and nuance…or it can be enjoyed now for its exuberance – with lots of decanting time. A wine that can be had with a nice piece of red meat and then pondered through desert and beyond. A winner.

***++Newton, Unfiltered, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2003: I am amazed at how good this wine is for the price. Full throttle chard to be sure, but never out of balance and very nicely integrated. Meyer lemon, crème brule, popcorn, baking spices, mission fig…super. Some nice liquid minerals on the palate and a hint of herbs. Long spicy finish. Drinking great at age 5. Yes, this wine lacks the nuanced nature and great structure of wines made by Kongsgaard and Aubert – but for $40 a pop? It’s a no brainer.

***+Guigal, Brune et Blonde, Cote Rotie, 2001: Another wow wine. I love this wine. Wonderful complexity. Tar, grilled meats, racy red currant, rose petal, pepper and spice. Just delicious. Deft balance. Great flavors of mature red fruit, minerals and pepper. Lovely integration front to back. Long, stuffed finish. Just a great example of more and more my favorite wine region. A great buy when you realize that the single vineyard Guigals cost 5x as much.

***+Pride Mountain Vineyards, Estate, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2002: Yummy. This wine very much reminds me of the Bryant Family style; Lush, thick blueberry preserves, a touch of banana cream, valhrona chocolate, baking spices and so much hazel-nutty, vanilla new oak you are not sure whether to drink it or pour it on top of vanilla ice cream. Coating palate, warm, medium finish. Completely open knit, delicious and a wonderful romp…It is so easy and silky on the palate almost drinks itself! But – like the Bryant Family wines themselves – I cannot imagine paying hundreds of dollars a bottle. To me this is a wine to enjoy with a smile and a nod to Robert Parker and his “gobs and gobs of hedonistic fruit” international style (if pressed, I would have guessed Aussie for this wine)…not something to search for like the grail, as folks do with Bryant Family and Mollydooker. Still…lovely!

***Antinori, Tignanello, IGT, Toscana, 2000: Now that’s Italian. Probably one of the more average vintages for this grand daddy of the Super Tuscans, it still reverberates with the essence of Tuscany and its homey varietal, Sangiovese. Bright , spicy mulberry and pomegranate, traditional elements of saddle leather, grilled meats and a wonderful violet tone, this particular Tignanello is velvety, forward and forthcoming…a delicious Tuscan red that adds weight and sophistication in better vintages. Nice medium long finish. A wine to be enjoyed sooner rather than later in my opinion.

***Alto Moncayo, Campo de Borja, granacha, 2005: Another Spanish Robert Parker recipe wine. Not to say that this wine is not delicious in a full throttle, over the top kind of way but it is sad to see this phenomenon creep across the globe. First California, then Australia, then Spain (it is no surprise that Dan Phillips has his hand in this wine)…each learning that over extraction, high alcohol and flogging of new oak garners big scores and with them big money. To whit: Thick, jammy blueberry preserves, vanilla, thick bittersweet chocolate, even some overripe bananas just launch themselves from the glass. The palate is fat and thick, reminiscent of blueberry infused maple syrup (brought on no doubt by the 16% alcohol this wine fronts). The finish continues with intense fruit and fine tannin, integrating nicely with the lush, mouth coating entry. A cartoon like wine (I always think of Willy Wonka when I have these wines) that I enjoy drinking every once in a rare while. In the meantime, I’ll take a CVNE Imperial to go!

Wine Musings Vol#63

2008-09-10T22:21:00.004-04:00

Wine of Merit: ****Keller Estate, Precioso, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2005: From magnum. I admit to buying this more out of curiosity than anything…there are not a lot of wineries with estate fruit in the Petaluma Gap…and my curiosity was rewarded! Wonderful, integrated white flower, Asian pear, mission fig and lemon zest notes emerge with the perfect amount of weight and concentration. The palate is equally well balanced, gliding from front to back without effort, adding minerals, lemon curd and then nutmeg and vanilla bean. The finish is medium-long and spicy…just the right kiss of oak. Wow! Nicely done. A wine I would happily drink on regular occasion.

****Mount Mary, Quintet, Lilydale, cabernets, 1994: I am not sure I understand the controversy surrounding Mount Mary. I think it was the same kind of grudge that Robert Parker held against Diamond Creek for all of those years – completely unsubstantiated. These are expertly crafted, deep, inspired wines. As last I found the wine a bit hard and nervous, this time I decanted and gave it some time to settle down. Perfect move. This wine is regal. It offers an exhilarating convergence of Gruaud Larose complexity and nuance, Mouton black fruit and mint and Aussie intensity and grip. All laser focused and finely delineated. The palate is bright and lively, never shrill and emphasizes plum, red fruit and minerals while maintaining excellent depth and athleticism. The finish is firm and in place for the long haul. A serious, stately wine that could be featured at any special occasion.

***+Melville Winery, Clone 115 Indigene, Estate vineyard, Central Coast, pinot noir 2002: I am typically not a huge fan of the Melville house style. I find the wines over extracted and more syrah-like than pinot noir. That said this is a very fine wine that many will appreciate and like. Perhaps a bit too deep and firm for my palate, nonetheless it shows off clone 115 characteristics with verve and panache. Deep, deep red currant fruit, Malabar pepper, cinnamon stick and licorice root notes brood and waft. The palate is unapologetically big-boned and thick, the finish long, peppery but still silky, with none of the off putting heat I have experienced with Melville in the past. Expertly crafted in the bold-and-the-beautiful style of pinot. One of the better Melville wines I have had.

***+Melville Winery, Terraces, Estate vineyard, Central Coast, pinot noir, 2002: In much the same vein as the Clone 115, the Terraces bottling is full throttle and deep, nuanced this time by a sweetness, candied orange zest and allspice. With time in the glass this wine seems to converge around a pronounced wintergreen element that almost makes it one dimensional. The palate is vibrant and perhaps not quite as full as the Clone 115, still offering a base note of black cherry liquor and that can’t mistake it wintergreen note. The finish is long and spicy. Finely crafted and very pleasant to drink.

Wine Musings Vol#62

2008-08-30T22:27:00.005-04:00

Wine of Merit: ****+Araujo, Eisele vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2003: Wow. Just majestic. I have a very special place in my heart for this wine. I love the way it imparts the terroir of the Eisele vineyard, with its broad leaf tobacco, deep, lush red and plum fruit, its chocolate mint and its autumnal, peppery sandalwood. Great, almost endless depth, great, flinty minerals, this wine is still young, primal and brooding. Striking and hewn across the mid palate, this wine has an endless reserve of strength that it can and will undoubtedly call upon as it continues to age. The finish is fine and furry but here again clearly built for the long haul. A wine that will offer great enjoyment anytime it is opened from now thru the next few decades I am sure. Wonderful.

***++Domaine des Comte Lafon, Mersault, Burgundy, 2004: I have been less than impressed by some Comte Lafon wines in the recent past, but this delivers. Offering lovely, nuanced complexity, this wine is all bright lemon curd, key lime, verbena, marzipan and a vanilla bean, with a pear crème brule thing that I just find delicious, all with lithe weightless yet vibrant intensity. The palate hints at minerals and moves front to back with silky smoothness, integrating more candied citrus and white fruit elements with little effort. The finish has a perfumed spiciness, with a candied ginger lingering sensation. Just a dynamite, delicious wine. Loved it.

***Pali Wine Company, Inman Olivet vineyard, Russian River Valley, pinot noir, 2006: Delicious. This wine is made by Brian Loring. I typically dig his wines so I thought I would give this one a try. I was first intrigued by the screw cap. Not typical on a $50 bottle of wine. I like the pluck! The nose of this wine is still primal and sorting itself out. That said, there is no doubt it is an RRV wine; all bright black cherry, cola, cream and green tea. The palate adds Malabar pepper, Kenyan coffee and nutmeg. Racy and a tad nervous, the acids are bracing and lively, though the mid palate is a bit vague and a tad medicinal, surprising for a low alcohol wine (13.9%). The finish is also lively, peppery and medium long. Nice!

**++Miner Family, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2001: A nice quaffable glass of red wine. Age has helped this wine soften and nuance, offering red raspberry and black fruit, dark, dusty baker’s chocolate, soy and some nice briar. The palate is velvety if a touch vague and the finish is medium length offering lovely, integrated Asian spice and more chocolate. Really, a very nice food wine that I very much enjoyed. Yum.

Wine Musings Vol#61

2008-08-20T21:00:00.004-04:00

Wine of Merit: ***+Chateau Beychevelle, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1989: Classic elegance. As a huge fan of southern St. Julien wines, I have always felt that Beychevelle should be capable of better things…the gravelly vineyards, the history, the vicinity to Ducru and Gruaud…and the 89 shows some of that potential. Not that this wine reminds me of the others mentioned…it is lighter, more feminine…perhaps more Margaux-like. Not overly structured or showy, this wine is instead sophisticated and nuanced, with lovely, perfumed red and black berry fruit, floral rose petal, chocolate mint and sandalwood incense spice. Lithe and clean on the palate it is still coating and offers nice integration, great minerals and balance. The finish is firm but fine and surprisingly long. A dynamite wine from an extraordinary vintage.

***Paul Hobbs, Richard Dinner vineyard, Sonoma Mountain, chardonnay, 2002: Full throttle…really all singing all dancing. Deep golden hue, thick, opulent lemon custard, linseed, candied orange zest, honeyed fig, hazelnut. Oily, viscous palate…a bit of heat on the long, spicy finish. 14.8% alcohol boys and girls. Huge wine. Not degrading but I am guessing perhaps even better on release. Still…Delicious!

***Flowers Winery, Estate vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2002: Aging gracefully. Golden hued, the wine is still vibrant and full of life: keylime, honeysuckle, marzipan, white peaches and minerals. Bright, racy palate, with more minerals and almond paste. Like the Hobbs, probably better on release but still very much worth drinking. Great!

**++Double Diamond, Amber Knoll vineyard, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: Experts only! Actually, this wine is very approachable and pretty wide open. Made for Schrader by Thomas Rivers Brown. Open knit and juicy, I do not think this wine is particularly age worthy. Pop and pour. Nice nuances of church incense, soy, chocolate and licorice, some rose petal, eucalyptus and sandalwood. The palate feels very Silverado Trail to me (it is actually Lake county), lively but already resolved, spicy, peppery with more of that succulent red berry / black cherry fruit. Very nice if not particularly complicated or sophisticated. A good glass of red wine over the short term. I also like the 75 wine cellars execution of this vineyard, perhaps even a tad more.

Wine Musings Vol#60

2008-08-05T22:39:00.003-04:00

Wine of Merit: ***++Chateau Gruaud Larose, 2nd growth, St. Julien, Haut Medoc, Bordeaux, 2005: Wow. What a stately wine. Believe the hype for this vintage. I am a gruaud head and was surprised when my Dad opened this up – I imagined that it would be impenetrable at this age. Instead it was a joy. No question that this wine is still primal and still a brute – but it is perfectly balanced, limitless in its depth and well integrated front to back. Great black fruit, chalk a touch of loamy soil, this wine will progress and nuance as it ages. Now it can be enjoyed for its succulence, power and grace. Wonderful wine – I’m excited I got a case! What a buy at $50 a pop!

***+Eric Texier, Brezeme, Vielles Vignes Perqualt, Cote du Rhone, 2005: I have commented on this wine in the past and was less than overwhelmed. Well, it has hit its stride and then some. Wonderful, meal in a glass nuances and textures. Dynamite wine that offers so much more than what I think of as typical CDR (in fact it is 100% syrah). Rosemary, black olive, lavender, tar, scorched earth…just layers and layers. Lots of thick, ripe mixed berry pie just unloads from the glass. Wonderful, velvety mouth feel and considerable depth. Coating front to back. Fine, sweet medium length finish. Delicious and a great value. Drink or hold.

***Fattoria Le Puppille, Saffredi, IGT, Toscana, 2004: A remembrance of our recent trip to the Maremma …and what a wonderful concoction of cabernet, merlot and alicante! Initially a bit reticent from the glass, this wine filled out quickly. Like many of the French varietal oriented Maremma wines, the varietal nature of the grapes cannot but be influenced by the wonderful, exuberant “Italianess” that the Maremma imbues into its soils. Very much in a fruit driven style, the nose of this wine is juicy, ripe blackberries and sugarplums, floral lavender, rosemary and pine needles, earth and a wonderful, powdery “C Howard Violet Chewing Gum” thing that I adore and that fills the senses. Surprisingly, the palate showed some thinness in the middle, though it added a very nice black pepper and leather note to the fruit and flowers. The finish was long and chewy. While I often take serious points away for a lack of integration and balance, this was a very nice wine. I have read where some have afforded this huge scores…I would consider it fun and very much worth a romp. At $80 this seems upside down to me.

**Walter Hansel, Estate, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2002: Past its prime. Walter Hansel makes wines that impress a great deal at first blush – the term “burgundian” is often thrown about. Not this time. Tell tale dark golden hue. Wine offers lovely minerality , some white peach but mostly faded fruit and a touch of madiera. Lots of hazelnut from toasted oak barrels. Palate is still firm and a bit racy. Lots of spice and a slight bitterness on the finish. A style of wine that flatters in its youth but struggles with bottle age.

Wine Musings Vol#59

2008-07-27T12:09:00.002-04:00

Wine of Merit: ***++Isola e Olena, Collezione de Marchi, Toscana IGT, cabernet sauvignon, 1998: Wonderful. This wine has aged majestically. I am not sure who the “Marchi” is but I love his collection! Very sauve and sophisticated, this wine is clearly Italian regardless of the varietal. More red fruit driven, with a small amount of aeration this wine adds layers of cigar tobacco, truffle, cocoa powder and vanilla. Perfect integration across the palate, picking up some briar and . Great, fine, velvety texture. Beautiful, sweet tannins to a medium long finish. Really a very stately wine. Beautiful.

***+Dyer, estate vineyard, Diamond Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: Notes I have read in the past have suggested this was a dynamite wine but also a wine to drink young. I did not find that the case. This is a taught, muscular mountain cabernet. Not reticent at all, though I would not call it open knit, the wine offers wonderful blackberry and dense minerality right from the glass. With time, tar, licorice root and briar add to the mélange. Wonderful depth, integration and laser like definition. Black fruit and more minerals on the palate, which seems almost limitless. Super long, finely detailed finish. Quite the tour de force! The friend that recommended this wine to me suggested it was a “better Harlan Estate”. In my mind it is more like a young 82 Dunn or maybe a 94 Gravelly Meadow Diamond Creek, but more approachable.

**+Saddleback Cellars, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1994: I have always been a big Nils Venge fan and this wine was from back when Saddleback was a brand new brand. Well along in the maturation curve, this wine is still expressive and pleasant but many of the signature elements are beginning to devolve. Telltale roasted red fruit, soy and chocolate covered raisin elements dominate, with added nuances of lavender and black licorice. The palate is still jammy and fairly long but showing some heat from the age. A wine that is still drinking but past its prime.

**+Davis Bynum, Le Pinot, Rochioli vineyard, Russian River Valley, pinot noir, 1995: This is a wine that never really came into balance. When young the tannic backbone overwhelmed the flavor profile. Now, the flavors have fallen apart and the tannins are just finally integrating. Too bad. Overly mature plum and cherry flavors with tomato skin, soy and barnyard aromas. Kinda like a very mature Pommard. Very rustic. The palate is still firm adding spice and baking chocolate. Finish is a bit cooked. A wine that has passed its prime.

Wine Musings Vol#58: Marche, Maremma and More

2008-07-09T19:55:00.004-04:00

While vacationing in both the Marche and the Maremma (western Tuscany) I had the opportunity to visit a few wineries and try more than my fair share of local wines. Some were not DOC wines and while pleasant more foodstuff than wine. Others are well known and imported to the United States. The following are the highlights of the trip:

Wine of Merit: ***++ Fattoria delle Terrazze, Planet Waves, Numana, Marche, Rosso, 2004: This is a fabulous wine made by a wonderfully eccentric vintner. While it is not the highest scoring wine of the posting, it is a new benchmark for Marchigiana wines and thus merits serious attention. Numana is best known for its beaches – northern Europeans descend down upon the area every summer like Wagner’s Neibelungs, with their pasty white skin, addidas bathing suits and sandals with socks – not for its wines. The Rosso Conero that comes from there (named after Monte Conero) tends to be red fruit driven, floral and nice if somewhat generic. Not so Planet Waves. This wine is very much of the international style (the varietal blend includes Merlot in addition to the Montepulciano)…and yet it still sings of coastal Italy. Warm, effusive, generous, this wine is laden with berry fruit, violets, gaurrigues, church incense, black pepper and tagine spices. Lovely, velveteen mouth feel with excellent depth and lavish if well integrated oak. With so much going on, “Planet Waves” (the name is taken from a Bob Dylan song) is still very much in voice, all harmony and dulcet tones. I loved it and will search it out for future consumption. Che bella!!!

****Tenuta San Guido, Guidalberto, Bolgheri, IGT, 2006: While touring Tenuta San Guido in Bolgheri we had the opportunity to taste the newly minted 2006 Guidalberto. This is the Tenuta’s second wine, though it is NOT a baby Sassicaia (often a second wine is from young vines or from barrels that do not make first wine cut – this is not the case for Guidalberto). This is a wine of its own merits from different parts of the Tenuta (Tenuta San Guido is enormous – it includes an entire village). While in previous vintages Guidalberto (named for an early ancestor of the Marchese Incisa’s family) contained some component of Sangiovese, 2006 saw for the first time a wine made up purely of Bordeaux varietals. I will tell you I was mightily impressed. The wine possesses superb, serious depth, a knock out nose of black fruits, chalk, cassis, earth and briar. Great minerlaity, oak integration, balance and fine, silky length. I would put this wine up against most anyone’s cabernet based 1st wines. Wonderful and worth seeking out.

****Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia, Bolgheri, IGT, 2005: The best cabernet based wine made in Italy. 2005 made for warm, more open knit wines and that shows here. Much more sauvage than the cool Guidalberto, this wine almost reminds me of an 89 Montrose, with ripe red and black fruit, violet, smoke, scorched earth, grilled meats and blood aromas. A wild wine, though perhaps not as vibrant and powerful as great vintages of the past. I loved it at once but guess it will not be a classic Sassicaia. Still, a wonderful, serious wine with great body and length. Dynamite.

***+Tenuta Ornellaia, Ornellaia, Bolgheri, DOC Superiore, 2005: Tenuta Ornellaia is a gem, a beauty to behold. The Frescobaldi’s have done it up right. The tour of the grounds reminds me very much of the tour at Peter Michael Winery…the beauty, the grace, the manicured vines. Of course, the tour at Ornellaia is $75 a person, PMW does it for free(and pours more wine to boot)! Anyway to the wines. The flagship Ornellaia is made 100% from estate vines (though the Fescobaldis did buy a second vineyard, about 5 minutes away from the original Tenuta to double the area under vines). It is as always a Bordeaux oriented blend, mostly cabernet sauvignon, with blended Merlot, Petite Verdot and cab franc. This is a lovely, sophisticated, finesse wine. The vintage has mellowed it a bit and lessened the vibrancy and verve of this wine, making it in my opinion not quite up to the standard created by many of its amazing predecessors. Mostly, red fruit driven, I sense elements of violet, truffle and herb tea in this wine. The palate offers excellent minerlaity and a medium body and medium, nicely integrated length. A very pleasing wine that I will not be buying at $130 a pop.

**+++Tenuta Ornellaia, Le Serre Nuove, Bolgheri, Rosso DOC, 2006: I was not a big fan of the 2006 Le Serre Nuove. This wine is a traditional 2nd label, culled from the lesser barrels. The make up (more merlot and cab franc I think) makes this an even warmer, more open knit wine. I found it yummy but obvious, lacking that third dimension that gives a wine body, shape and nuance. A nice table wine that I think aspires to greater accolades but comes up short.

**++Tenuta Ornellaia, Le Volte, Toscana, IGT, 2006: The fighting varietal table wine of Ornellaia. I was not impressed with this wine either. It is made mostly of purchased, non estate Sangiovese. It offers a mouthful of plumy red fruit, black pepper, new saddle leather and spice box. Round, lush, unassuming…it is simply a good, not great glass of wine. Nice with food I am sure and fine to be served in a tumbler. A bit generic but correct in every way. I just think when you are trading on the Ornellaia name you should deliver more…

While in Montescudaio (PI) we also had the opportunity to try the wines of Cantina Fortitudo. These wines are not imported to the US but are nonetheless worthy of praise as they are delicious. I will not offer detailed notes as again they are generally not for sale but I will tell you that if in Italy (and Germany I think) they are worthy of your consideration. The 2 that I tried were the 100% cabernet sauvignon ***2005 Aurea IGT that was all blue fruit with complementary herbs and cassis, nice length and depth for under $15 bucks (a screaming bargain) and the very stately and sophisticated ***++2004 Caput Mundi, their Brunello di Montalcino (they own vineyards there) that was wonderfully elegant, mature red stone fruit, cigar leaf tobacco, floral violets and tisane…great lithe palate feel and lovely, long, silky finish (under $45). Really wonderful. If I were a wine importer I would find a way to bring these wines to the states. They would be received with enthusiasm!

Wine Musings Vol#57

2008-05-30T18:48:00.002-04:00

Wine of Merit: ****++Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia, Bolgheri, rosso, 1988: A classic to be savored. Wonderful. Many have considered the 1985 Sassicaia to be one of the best Italian wines ever made…I have always thought the 1988 to be just as good if not even a better wine. Mature color, bricking around the rim. Initial nose of chocolate, raisins, mature plums and soy sauce. With time this wine opens and becomes more vibrant and expressive. Perfectly ripe blackberries, grilled game, a touch of garrigue and lavender, wonderful minerals, espresso, sooo…Italian. The wine, in my opinion, defines the “Super” in Super Tuscan. Velvety, fine, enveloping palate, seamless, perfectly resolved, lingering finish. I do not believe it is getting better per se, but is definitely riding a high. Superb.

****Barnett Vineyards, Rattlesnake Hill Vineyard, Spring Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 1995: Big, bold and beautiful! I have had bottles of this wine that seemed more advanced. This one seems youthful, sinewy and vibrant. Big, black and blue fruit. Cassis, mint/eucalyptus, smoke, vahlrona chocolate. Very, very deep. A big mouthful of wine, it is coating and furry front to back. Long, spicy, mineral finish. Black Malabar pepper. Wonderful!

***+Cedric Bouchard, Roses de Jeanne, Blanc de Noirs, Champagne, non vintage: Wow. Really lovely, bright exuberant sparkler. Ebullient mousse, fine bead, great nose of key lime, green apple, watermelon and ginger. Orange blossom. Brioche. Very vinous. Bracing, full and fresh on the palate. More citrus and strawberry fruit. Wonderful balance and integration start to finish. Just brilliant!

***Kathryn Kennedy, Estate Vineyard, Santa Cruz, cabernet sauvignon, 1992: Interesting and over all very nice. This winery has always marched to the beat of a different drummer. As such, it is no surprise that the notes on this wine are unique: bright pomegranate/rhubarb, tagine-stewed meats, exotic, Indian spices, moka harar coffee. Palate coating and at the same time a bit racy, blind I would not have guessed California cabernet (and it is 100% cab). Finish is silky and integrated. Delicious both for its unique signature and for its wide, open style.

**+Louis M. Martini, Monte Rosso vineyard, Sonoma Valley, zinfandel, 1987: A science experiment and…It’s alive! This was a commemorative bottling, celebrating the 100th birthday (1887-1987) of Louis Martini (who passed away in 1974). Honestly, I expected this wine to have passed away as well. And while no one will confuse it with the most recent Turley release, it is worth drinking. Surprisingly bright ruby hue, with bricking on the rim. Somewhat reduced nose of red fruit, rose petals, licorice with tell tale soy, tomato skin and a balsamic quality. Still, surprisingly fresh and clean. Bright palate with more red fruit, chocolate, black pepper, stewed meats. The finish still offers fine, furry tannic structure which finishes with a touch of sweetness. A nice, quaffable, easy going red.

Wine Musings Vol#56

2008-05-18T14:29:00.013-04:00

The following represents a broad portfolio of wines all tasted across one afternoon. The theme of the tasting was to ascertain as much as possible how much terroir matters. Said another way, the tasting aimed to test if the now en vogue “international style” was making wines, even great wines, more and more generic regardless of wine growing region. To the wines:

*****Kongsgaard, The Judge, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2005: Once again, guilty as charged. My second favorite wine of the entire tasting…maybe even my first. Amazing intensity, complexity, concentration. Crème Brulee, anise, lemon custard, firm, long, mineral…I assumed this to be the Mersault Charmes simply because I guessed that wine would be superlative to the others in the flight. I buy this wine every vintage and am happy to pay whatever price is being asked. Simply Amazing. Wow.

***Domaine Vincent Dauvissat, La Forest, Premier Cru, Chablis, chardonnay, 2005: I thought this wine got lost a bit in the line up. Bright lemon, white flowers, wet hay, nicely malic, in the glass this developed a somewhat flamboyant sweetness which made me not think Chablis. Very nice.

***+Newton, Unfiltered, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2003: This wine is delicious and typically flamboyant, though perhaps less so when tasted comparatively. Similar notes to the Chablis…bright lemon, minerals, papaya, quite firm and spicy on the palate. Lovely wine.

***++Domaines de Comte Lafon, Mersault Charmes, Premier Cru, chardonnay, 2002: Delicious, if a touch disappointing. I expected this wine to blow me away…it did not. Honestly, it was kind of a diminutive version of the Kongsgaard, all of those things just significantly less so with a concerning and vague thinness mid palate. Some detected a vegetal characteristic or maybe even bret – I did not. Interesting to note this given the focus on terroir. Again, I loved it and thought it a great wine, just nowhere near as great as wine number one.

****Rochioli Vineyards and Winery, West Block, Russian River Valley, pinot noir, 1999: Absolutely wonderful. Deep, complex, fruit driven style, dark, black cherry, green tea, eucalyptus, a touch of barnyard, creamy, velvety palate. Great integration and balance. The sophistication made me think French, the fruit driven style French wannabe. Certainly a lack of the typical “cherry cola” RRV signature made me think anything but Rochioli. I guessed Marcassin. Wrong. A dynamite wine and renewed respect for the Rochioli family.

**++Philipe Pacalet, Chambolle Musigny, pinot noir, 2004: A quirky wine. Initially driven by tell tale whole cluster fermentation nuances like clove, cinnamon and vivid bing cherry, the wine evolved ultimately to be a dead ringer for Campari! Intense, blood orange and dried orange peel notes. With candied ginger and provencal herbs. Many found this wine unappealing. I enjoyed it for its quirkiness and would happily drink more of it. I would not, however, consider it a “serious” wine. Pacelet makes a point of his “biodynamic” farming methods and uses many of the “international style” vinification techniques. Interesting if not compelling.

**+Marcassin, Marcassin vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2003: Great label! This is my first Macassin pinot (thank you Barry) so I had no palate memory to go with. I assumed this would be a mind boggling wine experience, given the write ups from others. Instead I found the wine a bit thick and somewhat tired. Lovely notes of peppermint candy, sour cherry, black cherry liqueur and briar on the nose, the palate is creamy but a bit obvious, thick with alcohol and one dimensional. The style is lost on me.

****++Domaine Robert Arnoux, Echezeaux, Gran Cru, pinot noir, 2002: I thought this wine was just killer! Deep, complex, beautifully integrated, nuanced with touches of camphor and barnyard, young and beautiful (au pair-esque states J.C.!). Very firm, coating, minerals and white pepper on the mid palate with dark cherry fruit, tannins that still are beautifully integrated across the palate. Wonderful. I found this wine clearly from Burgundy…in all of the positive, great ways that makes Burgundy the cocaine of wines – expensive and worth it. This wine is around at $150…and compared to the Marcassin clearly a steal. My third favorite wine of the tasting.

*****Clarendon Hills, Hickenbotham vineyard, McLaren Vale, cabernet sauvignon, 2002: Amazing in every way. Mind blowing intensity. Powerful and yet nuanced and complex. I immediately thought Montrose…and then, with the deep, velvety palate Redigaffi. Blackberry jam, lavender, black olive tapenade, sauvage, tar. Wow. Palate coating, maybe staining but furry tannins and never out of whack. A wine worth searching for and coveting. Surprising in a very good way. Gary saw through to the provenance of this wine stating that it hinted of “new world vulgarity”. I don’t know what that means but I love it! My favorite wine of the tasting – and again available at a VERY reasonable $62 a pop if you look for it. I love these treasure hunts!

****Tua Rita, Redigaffi, IGT, Toscana, merlot, 2002: Another lovely, very special wine. Even though this wine is 100% merlot, it was not an obvious stand out amongst these wines. In fact, its signature was very cabernet like: cedar, licorice, mint, some chocolate and lavender. With time, the wine did show its telltale Vienna roasted espresso and lovely, floral red fruit and mineral notes but not right away (and these wines were decanted 3 hours in advance). The palate shows young, vibrant staining intensity. I loved this wine but would never have guessed Italian Merlot. Delicious.

****++Chateau Montrose, Estate vineyard, St. Estephe, Bordeaux, 2003: A much heralded wine. After the Clarendon Hills, my second favorite wine of the flight. It is a beast. “Ti-Tanic” exclaims R.F! Intense, brooding, mocha, black olive, grilled meats, oily and coating palate, loooong and intense on the finish. The only reason this was not my absolute fave was because I somehow think of Montrose as even more savage, more raw than this wine presents itself as being. I love Montrose and cellar it in pretty much every vintage and this one is among the best…but I would not put it in the same company as the 1990, another parker 100 point wine. Still…Wow.

****Pahlmeyer Winery, Proprietary Red, California, 2002: 75% cabernet, 22% merlot, made from a whole cornucopia of the best vineyards across Napa and Sonoma. Wonderful. “Purple-icious” (F.C.). Heady, fresh, juicy, fruit driven. Blueberry, baking spices, chocolate, cassis. Vibrant and still very primal. The immensity of the fruit made me think Aussie. Perhaps this wine is the one that most typifies what I think of as the divergence of new world vs. old world styles. Yummy without pretension.

****Eric Texier, Vielle Vigne, Cote Rotie, syrah, 2001: I have posted on this several times and thus will not go into too much detail. This wine sings. It is elegant but not fragile, sophisticated, nuanced…burgundian without losing any of its varietal nature. Balanced, complex, really second only to the Guigal La las in my opinion…fabulous.

**+Molly Dooker, Carnival of Love, McLaren Vale, syrah, 2005: Almost unfair to put this in the same flight as the Texier as the later magnifies every flaw in this wine. Lavishly oaked (I sense American oak), milky, fat, gigantic berry fruit, this wine is a cartoon. And while I am a huge fan of cartoons like Family Guy and Samurai Jack, this has none of those cartoons’ wit or whimsy. Still, I suppose fun to drink. Best thing about this wine is the label. I consider this proof positive of a serious flaw in Robert Parker’s ability to score wines correctly.

**++Cayuse, Cailloux vineyard, Walla Walla, syrah, 2005: Having read a great deal about Washington syrah being the next Cote Rotie, I expected much from this wine. While not bad, it really reflected just another new world syrah. Here again, whole cluster fermentation drives a clove, cinnamon, black berry signature, with vanilla and spice from the oak and a thick, pronounced palate feel from high extraction and alcohol. Very nice to drink, palate coating…but no one will mistake this for La Chapelle.

***Pax, Cuvee Christine, Russian River Valley, syrah, 2004: I expected the Cayuse signature from the Pax, but this is showing better than in the past. Still palate staining and over the top, it shows better integration even if hung on a massive frame. Not bad all in all. It is a wine I cellared out of curiosity and while it is worthy of appreciation it will not be replaced in kind.

****+Weinlaubenhof Alois Kracher, Trokenbeerenausele, Noble Wine No.12, Burgenland, Austria, 1995: Wow! This is a gorgeous wine. Not made in every vintage, this number 12, with its 200+ g/l of residual sugar and its 12 percent alcohol is much more Hungarian Tokai than it is French sauternes. Made from 4 or 5 varietals that I can’t even pronounce, let alone spell. Elegant, perfumed, laden with white and yellow fruits, amazingly concentrated yet vibrant…this really is gorgeous. Honestly, I dabbed a few drops behind each ear and put on my best come hither look for Amy…it didn’t work but it wasn’t the wine’s fault either. Very special. A fitting testament to a very special winemaker nee alchemist that we will all miss.

**+Chateau Climens, Estate, Premier Cru, Sauternes-Barsac, 1988: Sauternes is funny. The truly great ones transcend almost anything else you can drink. The rest leave you flat and unimpressed. This wine is nice but more the later than the former. Reticent nose of clover honey, full, velvety mouthfeel, perhaps a nuance of lavender, coating…Very nice but not special.

***Sine Qua Non, Mr. K The Noble Man, chardonnay, 2001: This wine is made in celebration of the aforementioned Alois Kracher, playing off of the Noble Wine name of the number12. What a great wine to include in this flight. Honestly, I expected the world given its price and my love for all things SQN. As such it disappointed a touch. Very nice, even delicious, it was no Kracher TBA. A touch flat, also honeyed, minerals and white flowers, an unfortunate slight bitter edge to the finish…I would gladly have more but will not be in search of it at the hefty prices that it conjures up. Another question mark in RP’s critical abilities…

***++Francois Pinon, “La Goutte D’Or”, Vouvray, chenin blanc, 1990: Lovely, white fruit driven and refreshing. Plenty of RS, this wine is still very much youthful and vibrant with great acids. Peachy, great minerals, long coating finish. I am constantly amazed at these Loire sweet whites. Their longevity, their quality, the freshness…why these wines are not as sought after as the average, flabby sauternes is beyond me. Delish!

All in all a great tasting. I loved the Kongsgaard, Arnoux, Rochioli, Clarendon Hills, Montrose, Redigaffi, Texier and the Kracher wines. They were all special in their own ways. In considering this elite subset, many were really not so much endemic of their regions as they were just amazingly well crafted, balanced, integrated wines. So, is terroir important? Given this group, I would say that sense of place clearly can be a very important variable within any wine’s formula for success (especially great wine), though it is hardly a barrier to greatness. And given that I did not hit the 50% mark on guessing the correct wine even in a single blind format – I usually do much better…honest! - perhaps there is some convergence in wine making world-wide that is putting pressure on that variable's importance.

Wine Musings Vol#55

2008-05-15T21:35:00.003-04:00

Wine of Merit: ****Castello dei Rampolla, Sammarco, Toscana, Rosso, 1997: A tale of two wines. At first this cab based Italian is decidedly international in style – blind I would have guessed California merlot. Lovely, velvety red fruit, lavender, chocolate…a full coating palate with more yummy red fruit, licorice, chalk and café au lait…just delicious…but somehow a bit of a recipe wine. Amazingly with time, this wine changes completely. Two hours in and this wine introduces strawberry rhubarb, baking spices, soaped saddle leather, a touch racy, great minerality…now that’s Italian! Interesting how the cab works as a back drop – maybe more of a structural support platform - for the two other elements (Merlot and Sangiovese) that are actually very much in the minority in this wine. A real treat!

***++La Spinetta, Pin, Monferrato, Rosso, 1999: Masculine and sophisticated. This is still a very big wine, with I am sure decades of longevity left. It is however also balanced and nicely integrated, and thus wonderful to drink right now. Deep, thick blue fruit, some pine and lots of minerals on the brooding nose, this wine exhibits predominantly Nebbiolo characteristics up front. Palate coating, firmly tannic and evidencing integrated medium toast new French oak, the body is almost more Bordeaux than traditional Piemontese. With time, the Nebbiolo surrenders to at least an integrated element of the Barbera, introducing more traditional Italian red fruit and smoke. An extremely well crafted wine that I will continue to cellar with enthusiasm – and at under $50 an amazing buy.

***+Talty, Talty Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley, zinfandel, 2004: Talty is tasty! This was a new winery for me – and a welcomed introduction to be sure. This wine is all about freshness – one whiff and I can close my eyes and be transported directly to the Dry Creek, barrel sampling at a number of my favorite wineries up on Dry Creek Road. Very, very berry driven, this wine is laden with fresh fruit, herbs and minerals and packs a wallop of black pepper to go with (I understand there is a decent dose of Petite Sirah in here – I can taste it). Not overripe or hot at all, it is really about the freshness and a very light hand in the winemaking process. While my zin collection has dwindled down to a select few producers (Doug Nalle being chief among them) – this Talty wine gives me confidence to go back and see what else might be going on out there. Just delicious!

***Matanzas Creek, Sonoma County, merlot, 1990: Wonderful, mature Sonoma merlot. Made back in the day when this label was truly representative of the best merlot made in California. Deep, deep, perfumed black fruits, a touch of soy, spice box and church incense, including a hint of the lavender this estate has become so noted for. Thinning a bit mid palate, it still shows great black/red fruit and liquid minerals. The finish is still surprisingly firm if fine and sweet. Dynamite wine. Give it some air and drink up.

Wine Musings Vol#54

2008-04-25T17:17:00.004-04:00

Wine of Merit: ***Covenant, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: While this is not the best wine I have had over the past month, it is very much a wine of merit. Why? Because it aspires to be not only a great kosher for Passover wine, but a great wine period. Sourced from larkmead fruit, this wine cuts no corners. Juicy, ripe black currant fruit-driven style, this wine also exhibits nice cassis, grilled meats and lavender notes. It is lavishly oaked - perhaps a bit too for my palate, bringing with it almond / vanilla notes and baker's spices. The palate is full and coating but also firm with very good length. This young wine should have ample cellar life ahead of it. Of course the $90 a pop asking price pre-supposes at the very least this level of quality - good to see that it delivers. Also wins the all label award!

***++Chateau Ducru Beaucalliou, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 1998: I have posted previously on this wine. Notes remain consistent. Dynamite, St. Julien nose of iodine, camphor, herbs, red and black fruit, tobacco. Velvety palate but with plenty of depth and length. A wine to enjoy now decanted or let rest for awhile still. Top Notch.

***+Rivers Marie, Occidental Ridge vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2006: Lovely. Very Sonoma coast. Deep, deep dark black cherry fruit, forest floor, rosemary, mulling spices. A singularly focused element of blood orange that becomes more pronounced as the wine opens. Beautiful balance – a big wine with plenty of backbone. Serious.

***+Chateau D’Yquem, Lur Saluces, Bordeaux, sauternes, 1997: From split. You know, I love sauternes. Less for the wonderful aromatics, like the candied orange rind, white flowers, nutmeg and lichee that this wine shows, than for the oily, viscous, coating, unctuous mouth feel. It just slithers, coats, envelops you…to quote Old School, “Once it hits your lips it’s so good!” This 1997 does not really show the pumped up aromatics of truly great Yquem…but the palate…ohhhhh my! Very nice indeed, with wonderful depth and great length. I don’t think it will ever achieve the other worldliness of the 1976, nor does it have the stuffing of the 2001…but it will do! Drink or Hold.

***Jocelyn Lonen, Sangiacomo vineyard, Sonoma County, chardonnay, 2006: Super. I love Sangiacomo fruit – both chard and merlot. Bright, spicy, lemony, verbena. A bit racy on the palate…good minerals, nice oak integration. Reminds me a lot of the Shafer Red Shoulders Ranch bottling. Long, spicy finish. All in all very nice.

A few abbreviated updates: The ****Eric Texier Cote Rotie VV, 2001 is still simply mind blowing. An amazing, seemingly unending assembly of flavors, all perfectly integrated and balanced. This wine can be had for under $50 a bottle - which to me would seem to be almost criminal and certainly a screaming buy. The ****Aubert, Ritchie vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2004 is quickly becoming my favorite chardonnay in the world. So consistent, so perfumed, so deep…just a wonderful example of great chardonnay. ***Failla, Keefer vineyard, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2005 is also delicious, in a much more understated, malic, slightly more brisk kind of way. More of the Mersault style than the Corton like Aubert. Lovely. The ****Pol Roger, Sir Winston Churchill cuvee, Eperney, champagne, 1990 is a classic. Outstanding example of bottle aged, vintage champagne. Still vibrant and frisky, it shows great citrus and lavender, with yeasty baked apple notes. lemon curd and cardamom. Endless depth, wonderful palate feel, long finish. Superlative – and very much ready to drink now.

Wine Musings: Vol#53 The Thomas Brown Affair

2008-03-26T22:42:00.017-04:00

The following wines were all tasted over the course of an evening while dining at the Tribeca Grill. As Monday nights offer a very reasonable, no corkage BYO policy, the restaurant offers the perfect venue for an evening with wine and friends in New York City at a relative bargain. And the service, regardless of BYO, is impeccable. Many thanks to a staff that decanted all 10 wines, served and removed stemware with attention and timeliness and was always extremely polite. I am a frequent diner – and yet wish I dined there more often.

It should be noted that most, nearly all, of the wines were provided by Thomas Rivers Brown, the noted Napa / Sonoma (by way of South Carolina) wine maker. In fact, Thomas is the wine maker for all of these noted wines, thus creating a theme for the evening. Many of the wines have yet even to be released to the public or have published tasting notes available of which I am aware – some even enjoying an inaugural release in the 2005 vintage - making it a real pleasure and special occasion to try them. To the wines (in order of tasting, not by merit):

**++Nicholson Ranch, Cuvee Natalie Reserve, Sonoma Valley, chardonnay, 2005: I am afraid the start was less than auspicious. Clearly made in a very popular style, the cuvee Natalie is a flamboyant, unctuous white wine, fat with lemony, tropical fruit, vanilla and thickly oaked. It unfortunately, to my palate, lacks the depth, complexity and concentration to really pull off this kind of signature (I think Pahlmeyer succeeds here very nicely). It was best described by one taster as “A coconut cream pie served on a slab of oak”. I perhaps would have made it a lemon meringue, coconut cream pie, but otherwise tend to agree. Again, perhaps exaggerated but not a bad wine. Moving on.

****Rivers-Marie, Summa Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir 2006: This wine, by contrast, was my favorite of the evening, though it was not the consensus blue ribbon (in fact I am not sure if it was necessarily even the "best" wine of the evening; just the one I enjoyed drinking the most). Wonderful, fragrant, fresh, perhaps a bit delicate, this wine exudes a deep, feminine rose petal, lavender, orange tisane quality that just lures me in. Clearly very young, I think it will add weight with further bottle time, but it is so hard to stay away from now. The palate is lively but still extremely fine and deep, adding cola, licorice root and pink peppercorn notes from attack all the way through to the lingering, finely grained finish, where the fruit darkens just slightly and adds a forest floor element. Really a great drink.

****GTS, Seaver Family Vineyard, Diamond Mountain, cabernet sauvignon 2005 (release June 2008): Wonderful. The first ever release for this wine (in fact it is not really even yet released), it bodes extremely well for the label. Amy’s favorite wine of the evening. All finesse and balance, this wine wins you over with subtlety and grace. Mostly red fruit driven, it is fairly open knit and nuanced, adding wonderful lavender, plum, forest floor and chocolate. Some noted an alluring black powder, graphite element (I admit to not having ever smelled black powder – this one taster was an ex-marine!) that added to the complexity of the wine. Well oaked, the vanilla is complementary and perfectly integrated, doing what oak is supposed to do, buoying the fruit’s natural elements, not overmatching them. The palate too is extremely inviting, balanced and integrated with more dark fruit, cigar leaf and espresso bean. Finish is long, spicy and sweet. I really enjoyed this wine very much and look forward to drinking more of it as it adds some bottle age.

***+Two Hands, Charlie’s Patch, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: Wow! Hold on to your hats. If you were expecting the smooth, silky, round fruity “Bella’s Garden” shiraz experience you had better regroup! This is a monster of a wine. Massive, deep, laser focused notes of blue and black fruits, menthol, pine and chalk prick up the ears and make you take immediate notice. The palate is a bottomless well lined with granite, deep, deep deep with excellent minerlaity and structure that will make you wince. The finish is almost searing and of ridiculous length, though I have to say this wine has believe it or not softened since I tasted it in barrel. A true vin de garde in the old school, Randy Dunn of the early 80s sense. Given how packed, how stuffed this wine is, I am sure it will reward patience in the cellar. Only caveat is that if this wine lacks anything, it may be balance…perhaps it will sort itself out with time. Again, an inaugural effort.

****Outpost Winery, True Vineyard, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 2005 (release May 2008): Many selected this wine as their wine of the evening. It was a complete unknown to us and we had no expectations when opening it (though I am a huge fan of the Outpost Howell Mountain zinfandels). As it turns out, in many ways it was the belle of the ball, stately, manicured, “complete” as one taster suggested, this wine posseses stature and depth that makes you pause and admire. Wonderful concentration and balance, it is very Bordelaise in its purposefulness and composition (and in its varietal assembly as it turns out - though mostly cab). Still, its purity and focus VERY much belie its Napa Valley roots. Deep, dark, blue black fruits, perfumed violet, subtle tones of briar, amazing minerlaity – like liquid slate, all perfectly integrated, this wine is pure elegance. Wonderful, coating palate deftly balanced from entry to long, steely yet fine, tannic finish. Velvet glove / iron fist? Yup. To think this is the inaugural vintage. What kind of wine can this vineyard make when it has settled in? Word to the wise…get in line now! I have no idea of the price point and honestly care very little: this wine is a buy.

***Maybach Family Vineyards, Materium, Oakville, cabernet sauvignon, 2005 (release May 2008): Finally, a known commodity! The 2004 Maybach was one of my wines of the Polaner Puck building tasting awhile back – and I was quick to secure a few bottles, even at $110 a pop. I will say that the 2005 does not disappoint, though it does not approach the 2004 effort. Like the Seaver, this wine is open and inviting. Perhaps lacking the structure and depth of the Seaver, this may lay a bit flatter, though it does offer yummy flavor and aroma nuances of licorice root, red fruit, smoke, lavender and spice box. The palate is of medium weight and perfectly balanced adding peppery chocolate and a wonderful creamy palate feel ending in fine, sweet tannins. I will drink this wine with great pleasure while await the supposed-to-be mind blowing 2006.

***Diamond Terrace, Howell Mountain, cabernet sauvignon, 2005 (release June 2008): Interesting that Thomas would select a wine made by a winery on Diamond Mountain, with estate grapes from Diamond Mountain, that was made from Howell mountain fruit. Only 95 cases of this were made. I think it was perhaps my least favorite of the TRB wines, though certainly worthy. It is made in a very heralded, extracted style, that has done very well for wines like Husic and Plump Jack. Raisin-y, stewed plum, chocolaty, almond and baker’s spices waft from the glass. The palate offers more overripe fruit and briar. I cannot but help think of a chocolate, prune Danish (or even better hamantaschen – it is close to Purim!) Amy quips, “This wine is so chocolaty it should come wrapped in foil!” – It is very much a dessert by itself. I am sure Parker will love this Turley-like cab…so if scores matter to you – go out and grab it! While better than any Husic or Plump Jack made, it is still not really my style of cabernet.

****Schrader, ToKalon Beckstoffer vineyard, Oakville, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: Ahhh yes – the Fred Schrader wines. Well, here we are. These wines blew my mind in barrel…and they are better in bottle. Thomas is on a mission with these wines. He has set out to prove just how good the ToKalon Vineyard product is and, even with the vineyards accolades firmly in place, how it can be consistently transformed into something other worldly given the right touch. These wines remind me of the New England Patriots…they show up and simply play their game, regardless of conditions. Good vintage? Tough vintage? Hardly matters – these wines always excel. I guess this is supposed to be the base wine, though there is nothing base about it. A great assembly of soy, red and black currant fruit, cassis, sassy rubbing spices, floral lavender and herbs, this wine has endless, layered depth, amazing purity and wonderful concentration. The palate is voluminous, the wine itself voluptuous and toned at the same time. All kept in perfect balance. Fantastic.

****+Schrader, T-6, ToKalon Beckstoffer vineyard, Oakville, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: The T-6 really echoes all of the “Schrader” Schrader notes, with an even stronger emphasis on the candied violet element within the profile. Perhaps more singularly focused on purity and concentration, this wine is like an Olympic gymnast doing a perfect floor routine – focused, intense, no loose footwork, nothing out of place. Amazing minerality, “a touch of white pepper” was a common comment made. Outstanding.

****Schrader, CCS, ToKalon Beckstoffer vineyard, Oakville, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: For many, this was the wine of the tasting. All of the above notes, with perhaps a rounder, more flamboyant essence to it. I detected an added note of Vienna roasted coffee bean, which added yet more nuance and sophistication to the nose and palate. Still, do not be misled – this wine is about the fruit. Just jam packed, waves and waves of it. Wow. Really a wine you almost surrender all of your sense to. Dynamite in all the ways a wine can be dynamite!

In the end, I think the stated preferences for specific wines said more about the tasters than the wines themselves. All were well made, without exception. If you were more of a purist and appreciated stature, the Outpost must have been very highly rated. A hedonist? The Schrader wines were hard to beat. Looking for a wine you can spoon with after your love affair? The GTS was gentle, deep and warm. All in all…a wonderful tour de force. Thanks Thomas!

Wine Musings: Vol#52

2008-03-16T11:13:00.006-04:00

Wine of Merit: ****+Chateau Angelus, Estate, St. Emillion, Bordeaux, 1990: A very special wine. Initially requiring patience, this wine unfolds in layers. Two hours later, velvety aromas of plum, cigar tobacco, grilled meats, sage, lavender and mocha. Palate shows more mature red and black fruits, cardamom, baker’s spices and minerals. Coating. Long, thick, spicy finish. Almost timeless. This and Cheval Blanc are the wines I think of when I drink St. Emillion wines. Superb.

****Chateau Pichon Longueville, Comtesse de Lalande, Estate, Paulliac, Bordeaux, 1990: Quintessential Paulliac. This wine is controversial as it received lower scores at release. Here to, a wine that requires patience at initial pour. 3 hours later and it is still evolving and needs more time. Black and blue fruits, lead pencil (cedar+graphite), forest floor, candied violet, rosemary and chalk. Deep palate, ripe purple fruit with excellent minerality. With time the fruit becomes pronounced on the nose and palate, at once succulent and vibrant. Long, firmly tannic finish. Very much a buy these days (similar to the 83 Mouton awhile back) as it is overshadowed by other vintages and higher scores – but is very worthy (as was found out in the 83 Mouton – try buying it today).

****Kongsgaard, VioRuss, Napa Valley, viognier / roussanne, 2005: Superlative. I decided to open this bottle after tasting the Whetstone viognier. My recollection had been that this wine was significantly better than the Whetstone - could it be? Yes, Virginia, there is a Santa Clause. A completely different wine experience. Expansive, lush but not flabby or vague, this is a wine that I could bathe in happily. Soaring notes of apricot, tangerine, almond and vanilla accompany enveloping scents of Hibiscus and Lilac. More orange zest, marzipan and nutmeg on the deep palate, excellent minerality, long powdered sugar and mulling spice finish. Are you serious? Fantastic!

***++Veuve Cliquot Ponsardin, La Grande Dame, Reims, Champagne, 1990: Superb. Granny Smith apple pie. A wonderful accompanying note of lime and orange blossom. Lemon chiffon on the palate. Great acidity. Aged but not old – this wine has plenty of stuffing. A wonderful way to start a meal.

***++Spottswoode, Estate, St. Helena, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1996: Delicious. Candied nose of blueberries, raspberries, milk chocolate, white flowers. Ripe red fruited palate, good minerals, hazelnut and coffee. Nice, spicy finish. A great wine to have with a chocolate desert! Yummy.

***Chateau Clarke, Listrac Medoc, Bodeaux, 2003: A Wonderful value. Baron Edmund Rothschild’s investment has really paid off. This is a dynamite wine at a great price (under $30). Classic, dense, chewy Bordeaux. Nose of cassis, plum, leather, forest bottom licorice and smoke. Firm, coating palate offers more black fruit, minerals, espresso and chocolate. Long, fine, firm finish. Will continue to evolve with cellaring though it offers plenty of pleasure right now. Hard to beat!

**++Bjornstad, Van der Kamp Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2005: Better. Having been generally disappointed with the Bjornstad wines, this is at least better than average. Possessing the vineyard specific length and grip that Van der Kamp is known for, this wine has good depth and minerality, suggesting it will benefit from some laying down. The nose is also deep, black cherry, cinnamon, forest floor and tea notes. Some spice box. Already throwing a ton of sediment, this feels like a pretty “sauvage” wine that will take on complexity as it ages. Long finish. Good effort.

Wine Musings Vol#51: Whetstone Wine Dinner

2008-03-01T17:19:00.007-05:00

Dinner with Jamey Whetstone:

I had the pleasure of attending a wine dinner that featured Jamey Whetstone’s wines with Jamey himself in attendance. While casual and very warm - his South Carolinian charm in full regalia - it is clear that Jamey 1) is earnest in his endeavor to make great wine and 2) has the chops to pull it off. Having recently tried his latest pinot and having enjoyed the Jocelyn Lonen wines, I was excited to try a broader portfolio. The wines are reviewed not in order of merit but order of consumption during the meal:

**+Manifesto!, California, sauvignon blanc, 2006: Sourced from Suisun fruit, around 10 tons an acre stainless steel fermented. A lot of copy about “Great wine” on the label. I know great wine – and while this is not bad…no one will mistake it for great. Fairly typical, in my opinion. Grapefruit, guava, nice, bracing acidity, good full mouth feel. With so many good, inexpensive SBs out there, I find this nice but not compelling. Wanna try a great SB? Sample a few of Didier Dagueneau’s wines from the Loire. And before someone cries unfair…remember I wasn’t the one to print “Great” on the label.

**+Whetstone, Catie’s Corner Vineyard, Sonoma, viognier, 2006: Here again, not bad at all – though not compelling. I like Catie’s Corner viognier; many Sonoma vintners use it to pump up the flavors and aromatics of their syrah. By itself it displays typical varietal characteristics of hibiscus, vanilla, lavender and slate. Nice minerlaity on the palate and bracing acids. There are few new world viogniers that really matter to me – the Failla viognier from the Alban vineyard and the Kongsgaard roussanne / viognier being two that come to mind. This wine does not break through to that level of quality or wine experience.

After a glass of the ***+Whetstone Pleasant Hill, RRV pinot noir, 2006 (previously reviewed) I had a glass of the ***++Whetstone Bella Vigne Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2006. This is a lovely, lush, velvety pinot noir, and a great partner to the Pleasant Hill. Where the Pleasant Hill is bright and exuberant, the Bella Vigne exhibits dark, deep, creamy black cherry, thyme, forest floor, church incense and Malabar pepper notes. Reminiscent of the older Williams Selyem Sonoma Coast pinots from the early 90s that I covet. The palate is equally lush and coating, deep, more minerals and red / black fruit. Baking spices. The only small distraction on this wine is a slight bitterness on the long, peppery finish. At $75 a pop – perhaps a bit steep. I have to say, I feel that he has made huge strides since that 2004 Hirsch pinot that I had last year that I found hot and disjointed. Well done Jamey!

A pleasant surprise was the ***Whetstone, Giudici Family Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, syrah, 2005. Meaty, red and black fruit, pain grille, rosemary and Provencal herbs, smoke…a real treat. Perfumed and sexy, still this is much more reminiscent of a Cote Rotie than a Santa Barbara fruit bomb. Seamlessly integrated and balanced. Long, sweet, fine finish. Dynamite! Similar in style and signature to the Phoenix Ranch syrah that Failla makes (and now, at dinner, I find out he was making the wine for Ehren Jordan at Failla up til 2005! I find it strange Ehren wouldn’t make the wine himself), but better.

The last 2 cabernets are not made under the Whetstone label. The first is a **++Temple Family Vineyard, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: Nice enough. From the Coombsville area. Dusty red fruit, cassis, cedar, some cigar tobacco. I found it a bit muted. Nice full palate, more red fruit, balanced throughout, medium, spicy finish. A very nice wine that can be enjoyed in the near to mid term. I admit that my first glass seemed a bit off and thus I may require a re-taste at some point.

The other (and last!) wine was the ***+Jocelyn Lonen, Founder’s Reserve, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: This is a selection of the 4 best barrels of cabernet that Jocelyn makes for the vintage, from the Stagecoach vineyard. Stagecoach cabernet franc, about 14%, is added to the final blend. I am a huge Stagecoach cab franc fan and feel that this adds interesting complexity and texture to this wine. I enjoyed this wine very much, though many would find it heavy handed and perhaps a bit over manufactured with its prevalent New French Oak signature and obvious blending. Still…Deep and floral, velvety red fruit, chocolate licorice, anise, candied violet and cinnamon notes waft from the glass. Wonderful, thick cherry pie, creamy vanilla ice cream and chocolate on the palate – I can’t help but think of a cherry chocolate swirl, served with a red velvet cupcake…yummy. It’s like a Willy Wonka wine…I can’t believe these taste sensations are coming from a glass of fermented grape juice! A great accompaniment to my chocolate desert. Fun and delicious, no excuses necessary…just enjoy!

Wine Musings @ 50: The Half Century

2008-02-26T19:44:00.005-05:00

Wine of Merit: ****+Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Estate Vineyard, Paulliac, cabernet sauvignon, 1999: A stately, formidable wine. Archetypal Paulliac nose of blue fruits, cassis, graphite, chalk, licorice root. Amazing depth. Strong, gripping palate, the emphasis on balance and integration makes it surprisingly full and rich at the same time. Harmonious. Lithe yet sure footed. Perfectly toned, almost sculpted. A serious wine that almost lulls you to sleep with its grace – but upon deeper inspection approaches mythological stature (the painted reference to the eclipse above the label and the sprightly engraved “1999” on the bottle only adding to the effect). At over $400, no longer a screaming buy…but certainly worthy.

****Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Estate Vineyard, Paulliac, cabernet sauvignon, 1999: Pure Sex. You know the sex Dudley Moore fantasized about with Bo Derek on the beach in “10”? That kind of sex. Wonderful, thick roiling layers of red fruit, currants, cigar smoke, cedar, morels, Provencal herbs, lavender waft up from the glass. Velvety, coating, voluptuous palate of black and blue fruits, mint chocolate, wood spices. Dried cherries and black pepper on the long, sweet finish. Youthful, well balanced, enthusiastic…nubile? Not that this wine would ever be confused with an 82, 86 or 00 Mouton, but it does possess a wonderful come hither quality that cannot be ignored. And at a price point south of $200 – a great buy and drinking great right now.

****Newton, Unfiltered, Napa Valley, chardonnay, 2003: Wonderful. I much prefer this vintage to the 2002, which garnered much more press due primarily to its flamboyant style. This wine has better balance and integration. I have reviewed this wine before and the earlier notes stay true – fresh, perfumed verbena, citrus, lemon custard, fine minerality, orange blossom. Kissed with oak, long in the finish…dynamite wine. Hard to believe you can get this at $30. Great buy.

***Cavallotto, Bricco Boschis, Langhe, Friesa, 2005: My luck with lower priced wines continues! Here is another sub $20 red very worthy of consideration. Cavalotto is well known for making good, honest, Piemontese wines from Faletto, of exceptional note their Barolo from their estate on the Bricco Boschis site. This Friesa – a lighter bodied grape known for higher acids - lacks the seriousness of the Barolo perhaps, but it makes up for it in youthful exuberance and approachability. Bright red fruit, violets, great minerals and pepper. On the palate – more red fruit and pepper…the racy acids make this a great food wine and I bet would go great with tomato based sauces, almost like a full bodied pinot noir. The finish is soft with baking spices. Yummy!

***Slaughterhouse Cellars, Proprietors Reserve, Rutherford, cabernet sauvignon, 2002: Lovely. We can argue later whether naming a wine slaughterhouse is a good idea…the wine is worthy of compliment. Very red fruit / plum driven and rose petal perfumed, almost feminine, this reminds me of a Dr. Crane vineyard cabernet. The fruit notes integrate in a velvety mélange with soy, cedar, pipe tobacco and melted licorice. Cab Franc adds some richness and depth, along with morel and espresso macchiato. The palate is open knit and welcoming, coating front to back. Not super long but fine and silky. Really very nice indeed.

***John Tyler, Baciagalupi Vineyard, Russain River Valley, pinot noir, 2002: Who doesn’t like to say “Baciagalupi”? It is simply fun to say! And this wine is fun to drink. Simply delicious. Great expression of RRV terroir, this creamy, black cherry, cola driven pinot is plain old yummy. Great integration of Provencal herbs, Malabar pepper on the palate and a fine, silky sweet finish. I have had this wine previously on release and I think it has gotten even better. This time I am impressed with its depth and texture, great mouthfeel and balance. Another pound the table buy at around $30. No excuses needed to enjoy this wine while thinking to yourself, “Baciagalupi! Hee hee”.

**++David Coffaro Vineyard and Winery, Estate Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley, carignane, 1996: How can you not love David Coffaro? His joyous, centered attitude just infiltrates every aspect of his wine. You can taste the pleasure winemaking brings him right in the glass. I would soundly recommend that anybody who is not familiar with David check him and his wine out…especially his futures program which offers yummy wine at ridiculously low prices ($10 a pop when I bought this, now maybe $20). As it turns out, his wines are really wonderful – I love his estate cuvee. This wine probably could have been drunk awhile back but still offers lots of pleasure right now. Camphor, dry creek spicy red fruit, briar, black pepper…racy acids add a zing that makes this a great food wine. Finish is still spicy and long. Great example of Dry Creek terroir. No surprise Doug Nalle sources from here. Thanks David.

**++Bjornstad Cellars, Ritchie Vineyard, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2005: Very good, if paling significantly against the Aubert and Ramey iterations of the same. I think that may actually be a perfect tasting note; it is just like those wines but much less so. Less perfumed, less meyer lemon, less corton-like linseed, marzipan and custard. A touch more malic, wood slightly more evident on the palate, less oily and unctuous…very nicely balanced…just not what I have come to expect from this RRV gran cru vineyard. And at $50 there is little value here.

Wine Musings Vol#49

2008-02-17T10:15:00.006-05:00

Wine of Merit: ****Shibumi Knoll, Shibumi Knoll Vineyards, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2004: Wonderfully elegant, even if perhaps a bit short of its Japanese meaning, “Effortless Perfection” (though I admire the pluck). Still…this is a classic effort. Extremely well crafted, it is reminiscent of the Lokoya wines that I cellar with enthusiasm. Stylish, somewhat reserved notes of cassis, red currant, graphite and pipe tobacco weave themselves together seamlessly. With time, these characteristics are enhanced with more redolent black fruit notes. The palate feel is pronounced but not overwhelming, its presence complementary to the flavors, coating from entry to finish, now introducing melted licorice and mint, a hint of hazelnut from the oak, adding to the wines overall gravitas and sense of balance and harmony. The finish is very firm and long but never really out of balance with the rest of the experience. Certainly a wine that will reward cellaring. I am blown away by how sophisticated this effort is, in the winery’s second vintage. One to watch with enthusiasm. At $80, expensive…and worth it. Kudos!

***+Chateau Saint Martin de la Garrigues, Le Bronzinelle, Coteaux du Languedoc, 1999: This wine was literally and figuratively a gift. Offered to me by a dear friend, brought home gingerly from a trip to Paris, this wine is wonderful in its simplicity and exuberance. A Syrah, Grenache, Mouvedre, Carignan blend. Plush, fragrant Languedoc aromas of plump red fruit, grilled meats, bell pepper, smoke and yes garrigue waft from the glass. Velvety and round on the palate, with blackberry, briar and chocolate elements all integrated and smooth. Not that the wine is flabby – the acids are lively but nicely integrated with the flavors, all kept in balance. The finish is silky and sweet, with a touch of café au lait and wood spices. Drinking perfectly now. I don’t have the heart to tell her it is imported by Kermit Lynch and can be had for under $20 (in fact under $15). But I will tell you all – and pound the table as it is a steal. I love the Languedoc!

**++Newton, Unfiltered, chardonnay, 1994: It’s alive! A surprise find while digging through the cellar, I did not hold out much hope. Given the dark glass bottle, I could not tell the color but expected that dark, almost persimmon hue that typically suggests maderized chard. Instead…voila! A promising pale gold. Could it be? Fresh if demure aromatics of lemon curd, pineapple, mango and clover. The palate is bright and surprisingly firm…a slight sprtiz at entry, tangerine and a very nice mineral flintiness. The finish is lightly honeyed, showing a touch of tobacco and spicy oak that sadly just turns bitter at the very end. Wow! I would never have guessed this wine would have held on this long. A very nice surprise indeed.

**++Chehalem, 3 Vineyards, Willamette Valley, pinot noir, 2006: Delightful. Still sorting itself out, the 2006 Chehalem 3 vineyards, their entry pinot if you will, still offers bright, tangy cherry fruit, green tea, herbs and a nice cherry blossom element. The palate is also bright and racy, with more red fruit and licorice. Fine, spicy finish. Fairly simple, this is a nice, quaffable pinot noir. Perhaps it will add more weight and complexity with age, but for now it is pleasant and a very nice “first wine” at any meal.

A few side notes: The **Turjanis, Buena Tierra, Russian River Valley, chardonnay, 2001 and the **Chasseur, Lorenzo Vineyard, Russian River Valley, chardonnay 2003 have either passed their primes or were not very special to begin with. Funny, as both boast excellent provenance. This is the second wine from Karen Bower Turjanis that has left me tepid, the other being the Steiner pinot, it too from great grapes. Odd as she has made such great wines for Lokoya and others in the past. In this case, the nose is demure, the palate lemony and vanilla with too much oak showing through, the finish flaccid. The Chasseur is a problem. I like Bill Hunter’s wines so much when they are young…really great stuff. But even just a little bit of bottle age seems to knock his wines for a loop. Here the wine is already showing a mute nose and candied palate flavors with a touch of hazelnut, on its way to old age after only 3 years in bottle. Disappointing.

Wine Musings Vol#48

2008-02-07T21:50:00.000-05:00

Wine of Merit: ***+Chateau La Nerthe, Chateauneuf du Pape, 2004: Ripe and delicious. Mostly Grenache, this wine is a wonderful example of what Chateauneuf can offer when the weather cooperates and ripeness of fruit is attained. Wonderful, roiling aromas of blackberry, grilled meats, black olive, rosemary, bittersweet chocolate are available right from the glass. Notes of black licorice and pepper – and deep minerals - are added on a very welcoming, coating, open knit palate. Excellent structure holds this wine together and integrates perfectly with the long, fine finish. A youngster, this wine is great now and can be cellared confidently for 10 years. At under $40…Terrific!

***+Whetstone, Pleasant Hill Vineyard, Russian River Valley, 2006: Jamie Whetstone is one of the up and coming winemakers in Northern California. I am a VERY big fan of the wine he makes for Jocelyn Lonen. After a spotty past making over extracted wines for Turley Cellars, I think he is finally beginning to appreciate how important balance, integration and natural flavors can be to the endeavor of crafting great wine. Previous Whetstone pinot noir efforts have not been, in my opinion, nearly as good as this one. Make no mistake, this wine is big and deep. Even cloaked in baby fat, this wine exhibits lots of structure and intensity of flavor, with bolts of red currant fruit, pomegranate and creamy Queen Anne cherry notes jumping from the glass . But now this wine has balance – and the flavors integrated flawlessly with one another to create a harmonious presence. Added to the fruit are warm baking spices, a touch of pine and marjoram. Yes the wine shows a steel spine and a firm, if fine, tannic finish, but they are deftly integrated, cloaked by velvety red fruit, liquid minerals and white pepper. A very classy effort, this wine will age nicely in the cellar but can be appreciated in the short term for its youthful exuberance. At $50, this wine is appropriately priced. Nicely done!

***Boudin, Fourchaume, Chablis 1er Cru, 2005: Lovely – and surprisingly ready to drink. I have a thing for Chablis. I welcome its slightly more austere character and the malic, nuanced, mineral nature of the chardonnay made from that region. Typically however time is required in the cellar before the aromatic elements can be coaxed out and the biting acidity has a chance to tone itself down a bit. This wine delivers all of those aromatic cues and a bright but not abrasive palate...all at a surprisingly young age. Pale straw in color, this young Chablis steps to the fore with wonderful Anjou pear, Meyer lemon and Calla Lilly aromatics. Surprisingly rich, the palate is bracing but not biting, adding dynamite minerality and more citrus…now perhaps more toward tangerine. Long, spicy, mineral finish. At under $30 a bottle I have to recommend this wine strongly as a great value. Wonderful!

***Tenuta Sette Ponti, Crognolo, Toscana, 2004: Delicious. This wine is Sette Ponte’s “other” wine – their flagship effort Oreno getting most of the ink and accolades (see vol#8 for my musings). I find the Crognolo, a 50/50 sangiovese/merlot blend, much more to my liking. Where the Oreno is the poster child for the international style of winemaking, this wine celebrates its sense of place – there is no mistaking this for anything other than Italian. Further, while I appreciate purity and focus of fruit, this wine is not afraid to accompany its cherry and blackberry flavors with nuances of black truffle, earth and funghi trifolati (sautéed wild mushrooms with garlic and parsley) – making the wine an ideal complement for lamb or any roasted meats. The palate is full but not lush, as the acids are bright and more in the foreground. An added element of espresso bean and vanilla on the fine, silky finish hint at toasted oak. A super food wine and at under $30, a much better bargain than the $70+ Oreno. Great!

**Babcock Grand Cuvee, Santa Barbara County, chardonnay, 2006: I have loved the Grand Cuvee in past vintages. The 1998 was actually very special (See Musings Vol#2). This wine seems to have conceded the Babcock estate “Corton-ness” I knew and loved for more traditional, mass produced cali chardonnay elements. Tart, bright bubble gum and pineapple juice notes are immediately evident with nary a swirl required. The wine is full on the palate with more tropical fruit, some citrus, verbena and vanilla. The finish seems almost sugary but tart at the same time…a sweet tart finish? Not my style…

Wine Musings Vol#47

2008-02-03T16:38:00.000-05:00

Wine of Merit: ***++Ca’ Marcanda, Magari, Bolgheri, Toscana IGT, 2000: Our Maremma journey continues. This wine is produced by Angelo Gaja, he of Barolo and Barbaresco fame. “Magari” can be translated from Italian to mean “If Only”…and while I do not know the context for this wine, I can say that “Magari all wines were this delicious!” Similar to Ornellaia, Magari is focused on Bordeaux varietals, in this case 50% Merlot with the remaining 50% equally divided between Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc. And yet this is clearly, wonderfully Italian. Just a dynamite wine. Immediately expressive, the Italian coastal merlot and cab franc eagerly offer deep, ripe plum, saddle leather, grilled meats and licorice. Palate nuances include more red and black berry fruit, chocolate, tobacco and spice. While opulent and open, this wine still offers a perfectly integrated tannic backbone that keeps everything in balance from start to the long, fine finish. Exceptional.

***++Aubert, The Quarry Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2004: Having recently opened both the Ritchie and Lauren vineyard iterations, I thought I would try the Quarry. I am familiar with the vineyard from Peter Michael Winery and wanted to see how if at all it changed in Mark Aubert’s hands (of course Mark made Peter Michael wines before moving on to his namesake endeavor). I suppose the bottom line is that this wine is equally delicious, though nuanced in different ways. Where both the Ritchie and Lauren wines are oily, unctuous wines, I find this vineyard designate a bit more high toned and bright. The fruit profile just seems more vivid, slightly more malic and the mineral notes more pronounced. It offers heady, perfumed aromas of lemon curd and marzipan, but key lime and green apple are added. The palate is still full and rich, with new wood integration adding delicious spice and café elements. Still, it is not quite as round as the others, the acids a bit brighter. This wine is in no way a lesser wine, just a slightly different style, perhaps more Mersualt to the others Corton. And I have had wines from this vineyard that age effortlessly for a decade – and I bet this one will too. A lovely addition to the portfolio (though I understand that this vineyard will not be included in 2006).

***+Flowers, Sonoma Coast, pinot noir, 2002: This is a deep, sappy pinot. Darker fruit, floral tisane and briar notes are intense but not overpowering. The palate is muscular and toned, offering more red fruit, deep minerals, Asian spice and very nice new oak integration. Acids are still bright but not racy. The finish is long and while firm still very much in balance with the overall wine. I have to say this is not the first Flowers wine that I have found to improve significantly with bottle age – the rough edges really do smooth out, allowing for appreciation of the depth and nuance these wines can deliver. Maybe Walt Flowers should be thinking like Ampeau and releasing these things later in their life…I think this wine could probably continue to improve with a few more years in the cellar, though it is delicious now.

**+Lion’s Run, Vintner’s Reserve, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 2002: A wine and winery I had not seen before. Evidently it is a Gary Galleron boutique project. Given all of the Galleron successes, certainly worth trying. This wine is extremely ripe, showing off a black cherry, chocolate liquor and a pine needle bouquet. Thick in the mid palate, more ripe fruit, melted licorice and chocolate, along with lavish oak elements. Medium finish. A nice wine to drink with a chocolate desert or a cheese plate.

Wine Musings Vol#46

2008-01-27T09:18:00.001-05:00

Wine of Merit: ****Aubert, Lauren Vineyard, Sonoma coast, chardonnay, 2004: Very Special. Even more Burgundian than the Ritchie vineyard. Rich, perfumed, unctuous nose of clover honey, white flowers, marzipan and linseed. Over time, more tropical fruit is added. Fat, but not flabby, the palate shows more candied orange zest, lovely minerals and a hint of café latte. Finish is long, with Asian spice and more citrus. Like the Ritchie, I am impressed that a wine of this complexity can still be so seamlessly presented and so fresh. So worth it - though on the open market it is getting pricey.

***++Favia, Cerro Sur, Napa valley, cabernet franc, 2004: Wonderful, open knit signature of ripe plum, red fruit, espresso and black truffle. Very inviting – like a crackling fire on a winter day. The palate is seamlessly integrated and coating, and not shy on oak, adding licorice, sandalwood and baker’s chocolate. Firm, fine finish that still integrates beautifully with the rest of the palate tells me that this wine is age worthy – meaning it is great now and I am sure will develop added complexity and nuance if you can just keep you hands off of it in the short term. Good luck! I bought a few bottles at Amanti Vino but will buy more, even at $80+.

***++Andrew Will, Ciel du Cheval Red, Washington State, 2005: Fabulous. I have paid tribute to Chris Camarada in other postings…I dig his wines very much. They age effortlessly and always put balance and flavor integration at the head of the class – where they belong. This wine is simply delicious. Ripe and velvety, it offers warm, merlot-driven aromas and flavors of blackberry, violets, black cherry and mocha. Plenty of well integrated oak. The cab franc adds yummy black truffle, bay leaf and earth. Satiny, lush, but not flabby at all it still has great concentration, nice minerals and even though very approachable – a promise of a long life. The finish is long, succulent and sweet. Dynamite. At $50 a pop I would buy this before I would buy say Blackbird vineyard merlot from Napa – not that the latter is not delicious…it is just $30 more a bottle and I’m not sure why.

***++Beringer, Private Reserve, Napa valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1990: I have heard about inconsistent aging for this wine, so I wasn’t sure. Instead it was lovely. Juicy, almost chewy…delicious, right out of the bottle. Elements of ripe plums and chocolate covered blueberry, licorice root and fresh topsoil…wonderfully complex and intense but very much integrated. This wine has great stuffing…it approaches my “meal in a glass” definition. The palate is expansive and shows off that juicy-fruit goodness. The finish is long and silky. Nice balance throughout. A wine you can very much enjoy now, though it is not going anywhere soon. Hooray!

***+Paolo Scavino, Carobric, Barolo, 2000: Poetic. Lyrical. Surprisingly light in hue and intensity of color, the wine still delivers lovely, almost pinot like aromas of red currant, ripe plum and black cherry fruit, slate, green tea and spice box. With time more blue fruit and a beautiful candied violet. The palate is still very firm, adding more minerals and briar. Great, seamless structure. Long, fine finish – lots to spare here. Amazing how the fragile flavors complement the huge frame in almost a harmonic way. Wine as song! Surprisingly affordable at under $70.

***+JL Chave, Silene, Crozes Hermitage, 2005: What a buy this wine is. Available at under $20 a pop, this unassuming Crozes is well crafted, almost delicate and absolutely delicious. Bright red cherry and currant fruit, a nuance of garrigue, briar and cracked pepper, each element amazingly detailed, jump from the glass. The palate is also bright and lively, with a nice backbone from beginning to end, red fruit and iron, the finish medium-long, peppery and fine – a great food wine. Easy to drink, correct, could be a killer every day wine…as in I could drink it everyday! Super!

**++Eric Texier, Brezeme Pergault VV, Cotes du Rhone, 2005: Texier and I definitely see eye to eye. He has a clear and strong appreciation for balance, integration and natural flavors. This CdR was offered by Crush Wines in NYC as their best buy in 2007 (@$26). It is an old vines, 100% syrah based wine. In fact, it is much more Hermitage than it is Cotes du Rhone. Initially very racy red/blue berry, pine needle and chalk and camphor, time in the glass reveals bacon fat, grilled meat and groovy Mediterranean / North African spices. Wonderful integration of flavors and aromas. The palate perhaps is more CdR, bright acids, black pepper, more red fruit and olives – but still showing a strong backbone. Long, firm finish. This wine shows the balance and structure that will reward aging. Very nice.

**+Herman Story, White Hawk vineyard, syrah, Santa Barbara county, 2005: I was drawn to this wine because of its shared provenance with our own Trois Fils syrah, of the same vintage. Further, this wine has received accolades; including a 93 point score from Vinfolio and an assertion that winemaker Russell From was their “Winemaker of the Year”. Fair enough. To the wine: Trois Fils on steroids! It is the wine Pax would have made with my grapes. Everything about it is, in my opinion, exaggerated. 16.2% alcohol, it is a huge wine, with a fiercely tannic backbone and maximum extraction. The fruit characteristics are almost identical to Trois Fils; baked blueberry cobbler, mulling spices, vanilla bean, white flowers…all there with perhaps a more syrupy juiciness about them. The palate and finish are disjointed, at once fat and harsh. It has an added element of briar and green-ness…I am guessing because of an increased addition of stems or “whole cluster” as it is called (Trois Fils is whole berry, no stems). Honestly, very much a Pax-let’s-make-jet-fuel style of wine that I am sure Parker would love. Russell From says that as a winemaker he is more a carpenter than an architect…he sees himself as a cook, using the best ingredients – and I would agree. I think this wine lacks finesse…it is not like art that emerges from its medium but it is rather built from components - much more a recipe wine. Regardless of pride of authorship, I find it yummy but recognize that the White Hawk vineyard can make better wine. I think I should add a star to the Trois Fils rating!

Wine Musings Vol#45

2008-01-13T20:12:00.000-05:00

Wine of Merit: ***+Kenwood Artist Series, Sonoma Valley cabernet sauvignon, 1986: I don’t know…something about Sonoma is beckoning me this week. I have always had fondness for the Kenwood Artist Series wines. I find them to be, depending on the vintage, the St. Julien trending to St. Estephe wines of California. This is somewhere between a Montrose and a Gruaud Larose – and like those wines in dynamite vintages built for the long haul. First off, it has lovely color and bright clarity, with slight bricking. The nose offers meaty aromas of red currant, plum, blood, tobacco leaf and baker’s chocolate. A heavyweight, with less than 13% alcohol! The palate is still very firm with a strong tannic ledge running from entry to finish. I imagine this wine to have been just gigantic on release. Still the mouth feel is coating and the flavors - all blackberries, minerals and pepper - deep. The finish is still a blockbuster and of endless length. Decanted and tasted over 3 hours. I think this 21+ year old wine is just hitting its stride. Huh…who would have guessed!

***+Trois Fils, White Hawk Vineyard, Santa Barbara county, syrah, 2005: Our home brew – courtesy of Crushpad. Just checking in on it. I have to say – I wouldn’t consider this a serious wine per se…but it is yummy. The co-fermented viognier really kicks the aromatics up a notch. Strawberry jam, blueberry cobber, cinnamon, vanilla pudding, pine needles…all bright and focused. No funk to this wine, it reminds me of a Two Hands Bella’s Garden if anything. The palate sings. More blueberry and baking spices. Nice, lengthy, spicy finish. No bitterness at all. Just a wonderful expression of fruit. While no one will confuse this with a Texier cote rotie, I could drink a lot of this – and have!

***B.R. Cohn, Olive Hill vineyard, Sonoma valley, merlot, 1994: I like Sonoma valley merlot. Older vintage Matanzas Creek and Newton wines are a treat. This was Bruce Cohn’s inaugural merlot release. I guess it is working out as he still currently makes one. I think his current releases go with the tried and true Sangiacomo merlot fruit, while this was an experiment with vines planted right there on his estate. This iteration is yummy. Typical varietal notes of plum fruit, dark chocolate and candied violets are accompanied by a briny, green olive note that nuances the wine. Open knit and inviting, the palate is velvety, still offering good depth and fullness. Very nice minerality. Surprisingly youthful, not tired at all. The wine holds up in the glass for an extended period of time and finishes with a firm but fine tannic edge of notable length. A very nice effort.

**++Ferrari Carano, Reserve, Sonoma county, red table wine, 1990: Well, the package is certainly beautiful. All fiery and brooding, it virtually promises that an exciting wine experience awaits if one had but the temerity to open the imposing bottle. Ok, then…deep breath and…screwpull! This Reserve – now labeled Tresor, or treasure by Ferrari Carano - is another Bordeaux-like blend, based mostly on mountain cabernet sauvignon. Though some of the most primary elements of this wine’s signature are breaking down, the fiery label does in more ways than one give something of a precursor to the wine itself. Built around a still fairly intense core of spicy red / black currant fruit, the wine displays nuances of tobacco and dusty earth. The palate adds blueberry, black licorice and herbs hinting of rosemary. The mouth feel thins a bit and perhaps is bit disjointed – showing some awkward heat and peppery pucker on the finish despite the fairly low 13.5% alcohol content (pretty standard for the time) and age. A serious effort – but I will cellar Laurel Glen and Kenwood Artist with confidence, as those wines seem to prize balance and integration to a greater degree.

**+Stolpman Vineyards, L’Avion, Lompoc, roussanne, 2005: Given the pedigree, I was hoping for something like a Sine Qua Non roussanne-based white (think The Hussy or The Boot). Further, this has been raved about by Vinfolio and Robert Parker. Instead…not so lucky. Nice enough – the wine shows a floral, banana cream pie thing and bright candied orange zest – but light on the palate (I do get some nice minerals and more citrus) and a bit racy. The finish is spicy but shows a slight greenness and bitterness. A $26 roussanne that is worth…about $26.

Wine Musings Vol#44

2008-01-05T12:14:00.000-05:00

Wine of Merit: ****Mayacamas, Mayacamas Vineyards, cabernet sauvignon, Napa Valley, 1974: (From Magnum - label to the right borrowed from the 82 cab). This is very much a storied wine – some put it with the 74 Heitz MV as the best wine ever made in Napa Valley. It is the old style, vin de garde type wine that I love. 13% alcohol, massive tannic structure on release (I am guessing – I was 10), fined and filtered (I am guessing by the lack of sediment) – I am sure Parker would have hated it. Anyway, now, some 33 years later, after 4 hours in the decanter, it opens up and reveals something very special. Really the tasting notes on this evolve as the wine continues to open up over many, many hours – I am thankful we had a magnum so that we could taste through the evolution. Initially closed and somewhat reluctant with overwhelming cassis and nicoise olive notes, the deep color (with minimal bricking) and youthful finish offer hope of more. In fact, over the next few hours layers of deep black berry fruit, smoke, graphite, melted black licorice and mint build in waves. The palate, still bright and lively, shows red and black fruit, minerals and bittersweet chocolate. I definitely get a sense that this is mountain cab. The finish is long, peppery and firm. A gift. Very special.

***++Conn Creek Vineyards, Anthology, Napa Valley, 1991: Thirsting for more after the Mayacamas time machine experience, we opened this bottle. Conn Creek is another long established winery out in Napa that has been making delicious wines for a long time. Where Mayacamas is over on the western side of the valley, Conn Creek is on the Silverado Trail, along the eastern confine. Where the Mayacamas was clearly a cabernet driven wine, the Anthology – 1991 was the inaugural vintage – is a softer Bordelaise blend, including merlot, cab franc, malbec and petite verdot. Absolutely delicious, this is a much warmer, open knit, sexy wine. Luscious red fruit, mocha, vanilla, church incense and truffle waft from the glass immediately. Amazingly youthful – the palate is creamy, coating and supple with more yummy red fruit, café au lait / milk chocolate. The finish is sweet and fine – hard to believe this is 16 years old. If this wine were a holiday it would be Valentines Day. Wonderful.

***Failla, Alban Vineyard, Edna Valley viognier, 2005: Really lovely. A big crowd pleaser, this wine offers rich hibiscus, marzipan and apricot notes, accompanied by pleasing vanilla and peach. I often find new world viognier shrill, but this wine has depth and layers, showing off its excellent Alban vineyards breeding and Ehren Jordan’s deft touch. Lovely integration across the palate with a touch of Asian spice and nutmeg on the finish. Yum.

***Failla, Phoenix vineyard, Napa Valley, syrah, 2003: Another Failla winner. This wine has a meaty, baker’s chocolate, black cherry and kirsch characteristic at its core, with smoke and pine needle on the periphery. Medium in weight with a solid tannic backbone, the palate offers more plum, oolong tea and minerals through to the fine, furry finish. I am typically not a huge Napa syrah fan…this is delicious.

***Failla, Keefer Ranch, RRV, pinot noir, 2003: I guess we are on a roll here. The Keefer ranch pinot was my introduction to Failla a few years back and I have always enjoyed it thoroughly (see previous notes for the 2005 pinots – which I think are outstanding and even better than the 2003s). This has always been quite a showy wine – bright, sassy and yet at the same time showing dynamite depth and richness. The red, bing cherry fruit jumps from the glass, perfectly focused, with accompanying cinnamon stick and ginger candy notes. The palate is firm but finely integrated from front to back – not really creamy as much as deep and rich. The finish has peppery spice and great length. Very nice indeed.

***Vilmart, Coeur de Cuvee, champagne 1993: Extremely nuanced and sophisticated. Very malic, it offers a lot of green apple, nutmeg, anise, perhaps a touch of celery seed…I do get that brown butter and touch of saltiness as well. Yummy and serious. Superior structure for the age – it is lively and bracing, not thinning at all. Long, drying finish. A heady, wine geeks champagne – might disappoint folks just looking for yummy, yeasty bubbles.

Wine Musings Vol#43

2007-12-28T21:40:00.000-05:00

Wine of Merit: ****Staglin Family vineyard, Estate cabernet sauvignon, Rutherford, 1997: Wow. A stately, maybe statuesque wine. I guess it is not bragging if you can do it, and I find the Staglin wines to be the authoritative benchmark for Rutherford cab vintage in and vintage out. This cab possesses just leagues of depth – very much like a powerful Paulliac in a great vintage. Cassis, black and blue fruit, graphite, cedar, tisane…a wonderful combination. Perfect integration across the palate – new oak adds a mocha nuance with more minerals and blueberry and Malabar pepper. Super long, juicy, concentrated finish. A serious wine that is bringing it’s “A” game.

***++Phelps, Insignia, Napa Valley, 1997: Quintessential Insignia. Fresh mint, dark chocolate, wonderful flavor integration. Palate is still full and round, open knit and welcoming. Finish is also full but sweet and fine. Insignia is famous for its timelessness and this is another example of a wine that seems like it could age another 10 years without any effort.

***+Plumpjack, reserve, Napa valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1997: This wine has settled down and actually added some nuance that makes me appreciate it more. Still thick and unctuous, it has a touch of green olive and cigar tobacco that makes it interesting. The palate is chewy, with licorice root and briar added to the chocolate covered raisin base note. The finish is firm and youthful. Another example of a wine still awaiting its prime, some ten years later. Nice!

***+Tom Eddy, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1997: A wine that I have always appreciated and always wondered why it hasn’t taken off. Very Napa, this wine shows yummy cassis, chalky minerals and chocolate, along with bright red fruit. Great depth and breadth on the palate all the way to the furry, fine, peppery tannic finish. Very well crafted and delicious.

***+Chalk Hill, Estate, Sonoma County, chardonnay, 1997: Staying with the theme - this was quite a surprise. Great pale straw color. Youthful but complex and delicious. I would have guessed Corton if served blind. Wonderful lemon custard, linseed, slate and popcorn – not flabby but full bodied and still holding its shape perfectly. Palate is full but still nice, zingy acids and a lovely firm, citrus-y finish. In no hurry at all. Great example of a chard that can be cellared with confidence. Yum.

***+Enrico Santini, Poggio al Moro, Bolgheri, 2005: To celebrate our planning a summer trip to the Maremma, I have decided to dig in to wines from that region from now until then. This is an excellent start. This is a fairly new estate, practicing sustainable, organic viticulture. Yummy, unassuming, $25-30 (in Italy it sells for $14!)…sounds like a winner! 30% Sangiovese, the remainder mostly Bordeaux varietals – with 10% syrah thrown in for good measure. Out of the gate, the impression is mostly the Sangiovese, with spicy red currant and cherry fruit, leather and lavender. The mouth feel is generous and integrates well with the flavors, which now include chocolate, plum and vanilla. The finish is sweet, not terribly firm, and delicious. With time the wine takes characteristics of the other varietals, the red fruit gives into the plum, chocolate, licorice and mint, though somehow it always retains its Tuscan sense of place. Great. Santini’s other wine, Montepergoli, is also worth seeking out – at a higher price point.

***Flora Springs Trilogy, Napa Valley, 1987: Stately, if a bit over the hill. I have always been a fan of this balanced, nuanced wine made by the steady hand of Ken Deis for these last 27 years. I believe at this point it was still made with equal parts cab, cab franc and merlot – hence the name. Since then it has added the other Bordeaux varietals of Malbec and Petite Verdot. In its old age now, it still shows heady aromas of tobacco, morel mushroom, raspberry jam and violets. Touch of soy and black licorice. Thinning now on the palate it does not however drop off at any point – seamless to the furry finish. Very much worth drinking - but I am glad this was a cellar orphan. Owned and stored since release.

**++Zahtila Vineyards, Oddone vineyard, Dry Creek zinfandel, 2004: Very nice. Reminiscent of the Rafanelli – just less so. Perhaps to make up for it, the oak (American) is much more center stage, adding café latte and vanilla elements to the raspberry fruit, spice box and Malabar pepper notes. Given the good QPR of Rafanelli – this wine would have to sit the bench.

Wine Musings Vol#42

2007-12-15T12:53:00.000-05:00

Wine of NO MERIT: ??? Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Paulliac, Bordeaux, 1978: This wine was a DQ - at an important celebration - as it was heavily maderized. The cork was in shambles. I publish this only to remind myself and others that buying older vintage wine on the secondary market is very much akin to buying a watch on Canal Street in NYC. Good luck. I bought this watch...er wine...from what I would have thought to be a reputable source. It was crap and had clearly been stored very badly. I promise myself that from now on - unless it is from an estate re-release or from someone like the Rare Wine Company in Sonoma, I am not buying these email list "rare gems" anymore. Harummph!

***+A. Rafanelli, Dry Creek Valley, zinfandel, 2005: Mmmm. I love Raffanelli zins. This wine is big, bright, brassy red raspberry, spice box, cigar tobacco. Yum! The palate is a bit racy but delivers zingy red fruit and white pepper. Firm but integrated finish. Really delicious and a big crowd pleaser. Great example of a Dry Creek zin – which in my opinion are the best ones on earth!

***+Franciscan, Magnificat, Napa Valley, 2004: A bruiser. This is Franciscan’s Bordeaux-like meritage, assembling cabernet, merlot and a dollop of cab franc for a dynamite wine. Deep, brooding, black fruit, tobacco, cassis and sage. Seamless. Big wine with lots of stuffing, it requires a piece or grilled red meat or perhaps some cellaring time to really show its stuff. Firm palate leads to a big, but well integrated and fine finish. A very nice wine at a very decent price point (I think it can be had for around $45). Excellent QPR.

***+Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Paulliac Bordeaux, 1988: Pulled from the cellar for a special occasion. The wine has matured a great deal in the last 5 years. Still sophisticated and black fruit driven, it has thinned just a bit. Typical graphite, cedar, cassis, forest floor and minerals with some coaxing, just not with the endless depth that I associate with this wine. The palate is full and coating as it opens up over the course of our meal – offering more black fruit, minerals and chocolate - in fact the entire wine experience benefits from air. The finish is firm and pleasing. Really, this wine is a winner, it was just so mind boggling last I had it I cannot help but be just a tad disappointed.

***+Galleron, Napa Valley cabernet, 2000: A mixture of Taplin and Morisoli fruit. I love the Morisoli vineyard. This wine does not disappoint – in fact it is magically delicious! Really great right now, the wine throws off serious, spicy red and black berry fruit, clove, cedar and cassis. Mint chocolate. The palate is nicely integrated and offers great balance all the way to the sweet, polished ending. Really dynamite wine.

***Ridge, Geyersville, zinfandel, 2000: I am a huge Geyserville fan. I love the field blend nature of it…and how it ages and grows in complexity. In 2000, the wine was 66% zinfandel, with a large (17%) petite sirah. Given the long growing season, this wine enjoyed great maturity of fruit – and it shows. Rich, opulent red fruit, briar and white pepper fill the glass. It is still very young and vibrant, it has not yet really developed the nuances that older Geyservilles tend to show. The palate is expansive and full, with more red fruit, spice and vanilla. At nearly 15% alcohol it is chewy, though not thick at all. The finish is long and spicy – the 2000 used more new oak (American) than it typically does. Great wine – and in no hurry at all. Drink if you like ‘em brawny or hold.

***Twomey Cellars, Napa Valley merlot, 2003: Lovely and wonderfully approachable. The 2003 vintage was hardly a blockbuster, allowing the wines to develop early. This wine is already open knit and very giving, showing lush plum and red fruit, violet, lavender and milk chocolate. Some nice rose petal nuances. Very pretty and wonderful with a cheese course. The palate is lush and friendly and the tannins are fine, sweet and long. Lavish wine. Delicious.

***Turnbull Wine Cellars, Estate Napa Valley cabernet, 2004: A huge crowd pleaser. Very accessible and yummy – this wine has all of the right elements all brought together in one bottle. Even if a touch soft, the wine sports an excellent fruit profile, tobacco, spice, a smidge of mushroom and mint chocolate to add to the complexity. Maybe a bit of a recipe wine, but yummy nonetheless. The palate is voluptuous, welcoming and coating, the finish fine and sweet, with a touch of espresso bean. It is like the Tom Hanks of wines; not intensely serious…but how can you not like it! Great value at $38. (By the way…if you want to taste the more serious side of the Turnbull estate try the wine Thomas Rivers Brown is making from up there for the Maybach family. Wow!)

***Medlock Ames, Red, Bell Mountain Alexander Valley, 2003: Delish. 50/50 estate cab merlot. Young but open knit and welcoming. Nice supporting structure. Very Sonoma Mountain-driven terroir elements of ripe red fruit, pipe tobacco, truffle, hazelnut chocolate and baking spices. Lush, round and inviting. Yummy!

***R.H. Coutier, Tradition Brut champagne, NV: Lovely for non vintage champagne. Really singular signature of freshly baked apple pie – cinnamon, vanilla, baked apples, baking spices. All the elements are there. An added element of custard-y, candied citrus zest on the brisk finish is a welcome surprise. Nice acids. Very nice indeed!

Wine Musings Vol#41

2007-12-02T11:49:00.000-05:00

Wine of Merit: *****Laurel Glen Estate Sonoma Mountain Reserve, cabernet sauvignon, 1990: Just writing the wine notes for this gives me goose bumps. A quick story: Patrick Campbell, the owner and winemaker at Laurel Glen, has only made a few reserves in the history of this storied winery. He has never submitted them for review. For the 1990 he bottled only 300 magnums, which he only sold through his customer list and gave to friends. And he also bottled a handful of Methuselahs – or 6 liter bottles. And he gave me one as a gift (I assisted him with the naming of one of his wines)! And we opened it for Thanksgiving 2007. I will forever be indebted. I have had this wine once before, over 10 years ago. It was truly an amazing and remarkable wine then. Funny thing, I went back to my notes and they were almost identical to the notes I am about to publish. Then, like now, I noted the signature elements that allow for a favorable comparison to the very best that Leoville Las Cases has ever had to offer – indeed Patrick has always made, in my opinion, very Bordelaise wines, with amazing depth, concentration and balance – the elements I most prize. With moderate coaxing, this wine reveals a whole cornucopia of nuances, loamy earth, truffle, deep red fruit, tar, Gaeta olive, melted licorice, baker’s chocolate. Wow. 15 minutes in, the wine is signing and downright youthful (I am sure the large format helped). Sensational. No surprise, this wine is only 12.5% alcohol, not fooling the palate with numbing thickness but instead relying on the natural weight and structure to provide great, indeed voluminous mouth feel, with more fruit, chocolate, olive and minerals. The finish is long and succulent, gaining power over time, youthful and still very strong. I am sure this wine is good for another 5 to 7 years at the least, but is amazing to drink right now. Thank you, Patrick!

****Aubert, Ritchie Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, chardonnay, 2004: Every bit as good as previously noted. Tonight it is the freshness that strikes me as particularly alluring. Sure, the wine is wonderfully nuanced and complex, sure the viscous oily mouth feel and weight connote a serious effort. Still, with everything this wine has going on, it is fresh and bright, not heavy handed at all. Really special. A delight.

***Medlock Ames, Bell Mountain, Alexander Valley rose, 2006: Different from most rose wines which start fresh and then degrade over time, this wine is actually getting better with a bit of bottle age. The flavors are integrating and the wine itself is becoming more harmonious…an even greater pleasure to drink. As noted, a wonderful food fine – I had this with some sushi and a groovy “Caribbean Roll” - spicy tuna, avocado and fried banana and walnut on top. Lovely.

***Clos Pegase, Hommage Artist Series, Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon, 1993: I am a sucker for Artist series labels. Mouton, Kenwood and yes Clos Pegase. While the latter two will never be confused for the former, the labels are beautiful and the wines are expertly crafted – and well worth purchasing. This wine has softened substantially since release but is absolutely not over the hill. In fact some mild coaxing releases lovely, nuanced red fruit, plum, cardamom and Asian spice from the glass. The palate has thinned slightly – offering red fruit, licorice root and nutmeg - but there is no drop off front to back and the finish is resolved but fine and very pleasant. A great wine to have with a yummy herbed soft cheese or a nice roasted bird. Delicious.

*++Deloach, RRV, chardonnay, 2004: This winery has gone through quite a bit of transformation. Initially quirky and making handcrafted wines (some very good some not) the winery was sold by the founders to Big Vino in 2003. Recently Greg LaFolette, he of Flowers and Tandem fame, has been making the wine. While not something to search out (the pinot is in fact something to avoid), the chardonnay is not all that bad –in a Costco wine around $12 kind of way. Not overblown, it is pleasant and well balanced. Hibiscus, pear and Meyer lemon. Not super concentrated…light on the palate but not thin. Finish shows some spice and more citrus. A wine that, if they were serving it at a Bar Mitvah, I would happily drink.

*+Rutz Cellars, Dutton Ranch, RRV pinot noir, 1993: I believe this was a very early attempt by the folks at Rutz…I can only hope the winemaking has improved. The issue with this wine is not that it has aged poorly – in fact my recollection of this wine on release is that it has actually improved a bit with time. Still, this wine is hot, disjointed and over manufactured. It does offer some nice notes of typical varietal fruit, black cherry liquor, vanilla and green tea. It is unfortunately more than a little over extracted, astringent with way too much oak making for a bitter attack and finish. Not very pleasant, though with air it softens a bit.

Wine Musings Is Turning 40!

2007-11-19T20:43:00.000-05:00

Wine of Merit: ***+Chasseur, Van der Kamp vineyard, pinot noir, 1999: Ahhhh…finally. I have been hit and miss with Bill Hunter’s wines of late and worried that they really did not age well at all (they are so wonderful young). This is the exception. Van der Kamp vineyard makes great pinot noir (Siduri and Flowers come to mind) and this is a perfect expression of what it can offer. Wonderful, tea rose, black cherry, cassis and nutmeg aromas present themselves with a little coaxing. Green tea, more cherry fruit and minerals on the palate. Great structure and wonderful integration. A stately wine, with everything in the right place. Fine, furry tannins and a spice box finish. Essential pinot.

***+Keever Vineyards, Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon, 2004: Much has been made of this new winery's offerings of late – yet another new winery from retiring boomers who are now living their Napa Valley dreams. It is an Atlas Peak cab made by Celia Masyczek, she of Staglin and Scarecrow fame. So I broke down and grabbed a few bottles. Well, the hype is for the most part warranted. This is an extremely well made wine. Still very brawny and intense, the wine shows off great aromatics – scorched earth, violets, bittersweet chocolate and blue fruits. The palate is deep and mineral laden, with more chocolate and stone fruit. The finish is powerful but well integrated into the wine, not detracting from overall balance at all – and that no small feat given the wines 15%+ alcohol levels. This wine reminds me of a very well made Paulliac – maybe it is the Pontet Canet of Atlas Peak?! A wine (and AVA) to watch – Kongsgaard also makes cab here, as does Jocelyn Lonen.

**++Dutton Goldfield, Rued Vineyard, chardonnay, 2003: I am a big fan of Dan Goldfield. He is an aging hippie from Philly who loves the lifestyle that Sonoma affords him – and it shows in his wines. The Rued vineyard makes lovely chardonnay that typically exhibits bright, yellow peach, white floral elements and jazzy, tropical nuances. The body of the wine is tight and well-toned, offering complementary zest and ginger elements through a nice, long finish. A very nice, quaffable white.

**++Cline, Big Break vineyard, zinfandel, 1994: I keep these wines around to prove the point that zinfandel can age. Sure, not the 16% alcohol fruit bombs – they start pruney and get angrier as the years pass. But well crafted, balanced, lower alch versions achieve a lushness, maturity and complexity of fruit that makes these worth waiting for. Such is the case with the Cline Big Break. Mature plum and cherry notes, tar and violets whaft from the glass. Coating mouth feel with Rhone like elements of brier, smoke and bacon fat. Sweet, fine tannins on the finish. Lovely.

Rappsody, ToKalon / Dr. Crane vineyard, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: I review this wine mostly to talk about where it was made (Crushpad Wines) more than the wine itself – as only 25 cases were made and it is not for sale –and thus the notes are of little value (I will not rate the wine). This wine is something that a group of friends and I made at the hyper customized wine making experience that Crushpad offers (http://www.crushpadwines.com/). It was part of their “Cult Cabernet” program - the vineyard we selected our fruit from produces wines from Schrader and Harlan and Realm (all $125- $250 a bottle) amongst others. Further, the attention to wine making approximates those wineries best practices…thus the product should be similar. And to cap it off, you get to participate as much or as little as you want in the wine making process. What could be better?

Well, to paraphrase the great, late Lloyd Benson: “I know cult cabernets. I have cellared cult cabernets. You sir are no cult cabernet!” In all fairness, those wines are truly spectacular, often mind boggling wines...the best of the best. Our "baby cult" is absolutely a delicious bottle of wine – and well worth the $35 a bottle we invested at the time. Jammy blackberry and nuances of red fruit, balanced with forest floor and pine needles make this a wine a definite crowd pleaser. The body is still all baby fat, though if one concentrates you will get that yummy, chalky Oakville soil and chocolate mint along with nuance of picholine olive. Finish is starting to firm up and make more of a statement. It will be fun to check into this wine as it ages and develops as right now it is still very primal. When I receive my Harlan, Schrader and Realm allotments I will have a blind tasting with our cult-ish Rappsody and see where things shake out. I can’t wait! As for Crushpad – I would not hesitate to recommend the experience…revel in making your own high quality wine with your own label…and expect to get what you pay for times 2 (or more)!