Thursday, March 24, 2011

Wine Musings Vol#105


Wine of Merit: ****+Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac, 1979: A wonderful expression of Mouton in full voice. Rich, red fruit, graphite, cedar and cassis. With time focused mint chocolate. Gliding, velvety palate with more red and black fruit and mineral. Finish is sweet and resolving. I think this wine is at its peak. Lovely.

***++ Chateau Montrose, St. Estephe, 1986: A meal in a glass. A teenager, still brooding and a bit awkward, this wine needs cellar time. With time and air...Black fruit, loam, freshly butchered meat, licorice root. The palate is big and burly, showing a pronounced tannic ledge and primary red and black fruit. The finish is firm and long. A lovely Montrose with a long future ahead of it.

***++ Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc, Pessac Leognan, 2006: Wonderful and better than the 2005. Waxy, linseed, candied orange peel and marzipan, bright guava, red grapefruit and kiwi, apricot and honeycomb. Great intensity and zest. Fabulous acidity and mouth feel. Superb. Lovely now, better later.

***+ Etienne Sauzet, Puligny Montrachet, 1er cru, Les Referts, 2007: Wonderful white burg and an excellent QPR wine. Bright, refreshing notes of key lime and meyer lemon. A hint of lemon custard and white, fleshy pear. Redolent orange blossom. Not over the top at all - wonderfully balanced and in check. Good acids and minerals, with a touch of vanilla on the palate. Medium length, spicy finish. We drank this with a 2006 Aubert Lauren vineyard and while the later was a crowd pleaser, I preferred the Sauzet for its balance and focus.

***+ Troplong Mondot, St. Emillion, 1996: From Magnum. Perfumed nose of red and black berry fruit, plum, tobacco, freshly turned earth and rose petal. Violets. Lithe mouth feel with excellent balance, rounding out with time, yielding more red fruit and chocolate. Finish is furry and long, surprisingly firm. Yummy.

***+ Chateau Leoville Las Cases, St. Julien, 1988: Just coming into its prime, requiring extended air and more than a little patience. With time, red fruit and game aromas, black olive, a tinge of something leafy, a touch of iodine. Very old world. Gliding palate, with lovely balance, firm from front to back. Finish is pronounced but not hard. A pretty wine that has a long life ahead of it.