Sunday, December 21, 2008

Wine Musings Vol#73


****Wine of Merit: Kosta Browne, Amber Ridge vineyard, Russian River Valley, pinot noir, 2006: Much has been said and written about the Kosta Browne pinots. I tend to agree with most of it. That said, the 2006s were not given the same drop-to-your-knees-not-worthy accolades. Candidly, I am not sure why. This wine is nothing short of wonderful. Deep, expansive, layered, it is a wonderful example of both the RRV terroir and the varietal. And the deft blending of clones is close to perfect. Clearly more clone 667 driven, this wine has excellent structure and a black cherry, cola primary element, complemented with wild strawberry, uva fragola and minerals. Wonderfully balanced and deftly integrated. Fine sweet tannins. I think this wine will nuance and build over time, but I can't imagine waiting that long. Delicious.

****Leoville Barton, Estate, St. Julien, Bordeaux, 2005: I am sure most will think this crazy early to drink this wine and I agree. It was more to set the benchmark as I have invested significantly in this wine and 2005 Bordeaux in general purely on others reviews. So is it worth the hype? You bet! Of course, in its present, hard-as-nails condition this is more about a preview then a full length feature, but it does tantalize. Serious, deep red and black fruit, cedar, graphite, minerals a touch of brier...this wine reminds me of a home run hitter all coiled up awaiting the high fastball. The palate is deep, deep, deep and offers an iron backbone front to back. Endless black fruit and mineral driven to a pronounced but perfectly integrated finish. I will put this to bed for another eight years or so and check in post hibernation. Exciting!

***++Realm, Beckstoffer Tokalon vineyard, Oakville, cabernet sauvignon, 2005: I was introduced to this wine via barrel sample at the Polaner tasting and fell in love. Great purity and focus. Lovely blackberry, cassis, cedar, a touch of black cherry...this wine is just stuffed with flavor. The palate is velvety, with more berry and chocolate covered espresso bean. With air, a slight green pepper element is added, which adds complexity. Lovely, coating, fine and firm on the tail end. A wine to savor and relish. Yum!

***++Cedric Bouchard, Inflorescence, Blanc de noirs "Val Vilaine", champagne, NV: I love Cedric Bouchard champagnes. The Roses de Jeanne is breathtaking. This wine is also delicious. 100% pinot noir with no dosage. Bright, floral, orange blossom notes soar from the glass. This is exubernace vinified. Lovely rose petal, strawberry, challah french toast...a full meal with bubbles. Acids are bright and cutting, from attack to the back of the palate. This is not the typical yeasty, doughy NV champagne we have all just learned to deal with (actually, this wine is from the 2005 vintage but Bouchard does not identify it as such on the label). It is a cut above. Purchased through garagiste, it is a dynamite wine that offers amazing QPR. A must buy.

***Fattoria delle Terraze, Chaos, Le Marche, 2004: I dig the wines made by the crazy Terni family and this fattoria up on Monte Conero. The Planet Waves bottling is wonderful. This is a wine made mostly of rosso montepulciano, with the other half divided up equally 25% syrah and 25% Merlot. It is decidedly new world, though unmistakably montepulciano based. Red berry fruit, Asian spice and herbs drive this excitable wine. The syrah adds blueberry and clove, the merlot a lovely candied violet and the new oak adds mocha, white chocolate and vanilla. Velvet mouth feel and integrated, spicy finish. Very nice, if perhaps a bit too much of a nod to more "international" wine making techniques. But it is from the Marche - and I love it!

Saturday, December 13, 2008

Wine Musings Vol#72


Wine of Merit: ****Mount Veeder Winery, Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon, 1990: I miss this style of Napa wine. Balanced and thoughtful, lower in alcohol (13.5%) as was the style 18 years ago, this wine is still fresh and has added sophistication and nuance with age. Still surprisingly exuberant, maybe more confident than cocky. Blackberry preserves, olive tapenade, brier...this integrated melange needs little coaxing to show its stuff. The palate too is lively and full but never fat, showing more black fruits, minerals and baking chocolate. The finish is firm and fine. I think this wine is at its absolute peak. I can imagine that most of this has been consumed long ago by ye of little faith. For those few holdouts...patience has indeed been a virtue. Good on release, much better now. Drink now and celebrate.

***+Failla, Alban vineyard, viognier, 2006: A wine that I always relish, I feel that Failla makes one of the few acceptable viognier based wines in the new world (the other stand out for me being the Kongsgaard Vio/Rus). Still, it is not always up to snuff. The 2006 does not disappoint. Lovely, floral but still deep and concentrated. Lovely Provencal herbs accompany the orange blossom, hibiscus, candied violet and vanilla bean. Lovely mineral and citrus palate. Bright, spicy finish. Righteous. A great white wine change up and wonderful food wine to boot.

***Black Bart, Stagecoach vineyard, Napa, syrah, 2004: I enjoy wines made from the Stagecoach vineyard. Of course, at over 500 acres under vine, that is a bit of a generic statement. Still, the Krupp brothers seem to grow delicious fruit and those who source from it tend to make delicious wines. The Black Bart bottling is made by the Krupps themselves and is indeed a yummy, expansive, mouthful of Napa grape juice. Even given the size of the vineyard, I still get a distinct sense of place, that southern Napa mountain red/black berry fruit, bramble and mineral driven style followed by a slight, vegetal counterattack, with the cinnamon and clove from the whole cluster fermentation adding the final kicker. A dollop of co fermented viognier adds a floral, citrus note. The wine is big boned and coating, with a firm palate and a firmer, juicy finish. Big Black Bart. I know this is not supposed to be the visual, but as I sip this wine I can't help but conjure up Clevon Little riding into town with his fringed velour cowboy outfit and his Gucci saddle, waving to Count Basie as he rides by. Now that's style!